Lecture 2: Creams - PDF

Lecture Dr. REHAM ZAYED Lecturer of pharmaceutics, Sinai University Presentation title 1 Creams Night Cream Since the skin renewal po...

Lecture Dr. REHAM ZAYED Lecturer of pharmaceutics, Sinai University Presentation title 1 Creams Night Cream Since the skin renewal power is higher at night, Night creams are thick and contain ingredients designed to: Moisturize Repair damage to your skin. Boost collagen production Help skin to revive and renew Designed to be left on the skin several hours. They must be composed with a substantial oil phase which will spread easily without disappearing but also without rubbing off onto clothing or bed linen in use. There is no doubt that the occlusive layer they provide for the skin surface slows the rate of transepidermal water loss and can therefore claim to have a moisturizing effect.  Ingredients of Night Cream Vitamin E & A: anti-inflammatory properties and help moisturize and restore skin suppleness while sleeping Moisturizing ingredients like honey, shea butter, cocoa butter, Glycerin Retinols: boosts skin cell regeneration & increases collagen production ➔ lessen the signs of aging like fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots (anti-aging ingredient) Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids. ➔ exfoliation (the process of removing dead skin cells from the outer layer of your skin) improved skin texture, and acne reduction. Hyaluronic acid. This ingredient takes in moisture to skin and locks it in, makes skin hydrated & plump ➔ reduce fine lines and wrinkles.  Massage cream A cream that hydrate, nourish, stimulates blood circulation and improve the appearance of your skin: 1. Hydration: provide deep hydration to skin. Glyceryol ➔ softening and moisturizing. 2. Nourishment: ingredients contain vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that help to fight free radicals and promote healthy skin cell growth. Jojoba oil contains Vitamin E and B-complex. 3. Improved circulation: Massaging your skin with cream can help to improve blood flow and circulation. Shea butter is rich in antioxidant vitamins A & E which promote circulation and healthy skin cell regeneration reduce inflammation and promote healing, making your skin look and feel better. 4. Relaxation: Massage help to promote relaxation and reduce stress. essential oils or other fragrances can provide aromatherapy benefits. Jojoba oil and coconut oil.These scents can help promote relaxation, reduce stress 5. Anti-aging: Ingredients that are known to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. hyaluronic acid which plumps the skin and fills in wrinkles 6. Deep cleansing: Massage cream body can also help to deeply cleanse your skin. It can help to remove dirt, oil, and impurities, leaving your skin looking fresh and clean.  Moisturizing cream Moisture content of the stratum corneum is important for normal skin shedding. If water is lost more rapidly from the stratum corneum than it received from the lower layers of the epidermis, the skin becomes dehydrated and loses its flexibility. Oil alone will not restore the flexibility. Water was needed for the normal release of dead cells from the skin surface. By a lack of moisture the cells stick together and come off in large clumps or scales rather than individual cells surface rough dry skin. 7  those creams that functions to restore moisture (water) to the stratum corneum. They make a non-volatile residual film on the skin, capable of retaining skin moisture as well as the moisture provided by the cream using humectant. A moisturized cream is one that contains agents which hold or/and attract moisture to the skin Presentation title 8  Humectants are hydrophilic, or water-loving, ingredients. Humectants form bonds with water molecules ➔ add moisture to the skin by drawing it from the air and from our skin, to the surface of our skin. Humectants should be applied to damp skin, not dry skin?? ➔ because humectants are so water-loving, you actually want to give them the water they need to do their job properly 9 Commonly Used Humectants Aloe Vera Honey Glycerin Panthenol Urea Propylene glycol Hyaluronic acid Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) Used For: Oily or combination Skin Summertime Acne-prone skin Used in combination with occlusive for very dry skin 10 Occlusives do not love water and repel it prevent the water that’s in your skin from evaporating and escaping into the air Work by creating a barrier between skin and air so prevents too much moisture from escaping from skin. Not all occlusives are the same, some perform better than others based on the molecule size. Larger molecules are going to be able to stay on the skin longer than small molecules. larger molecules are thick and don’t feel as nice on your skin. Occlusives typically leave a heavy and greasy feeling on the skin and feel waxy. This is why they are normally used in small amounts. 11  Commonly used Occlusives Beeswax Cocoa Butter Lanolin Petroleum Silicone Shea Butter Used For: Dry, severely dry or damaged skin and eczema. Never used for oily or acne prone skin Occlusive is most effective when placed over damp skin 12  An emollient is a film forming substance. It fill in the gaps that are in between skin cells ➔ makes the skin feel good and looks smooth & silky They are normally a lighter oil-based substance Presentation title 13  Commonly used Emollients Almond Oil Jojoba Oil Ceramides: fats present in skin cells. (made 30% to 40% of epidermis) Shea Butter: is a multitasking ingredient that acts both as an emollient and occlusive Used for: Dry skin or normal skin Skin with fine lines and wrinkles Soothing eczema-prone skin Presentation title 14  To moisturize skin, choose which? Patient may need to include one, two or all three types of moisturizers Factors affecting selection: 1. Time of the year 2. Current skin condition and issues 3. Skin type Presentation title 15  Normal Skin Well-balanced skin. Neither glossy nor oily to the touch Appears smooth and well moisturized. The pores are not large Humectants or emollient Presentation title 17  Oily Skin Sebum over production Glossy shine and visible pores The skin is oily to the touch. Large pores are apparent. Suffer from acne as adolescents Does not need moisturizers Except at times when the face becomes drier➔ Use Humectants Combination Skin This skin type is almost identical to the normal skin type. Skin types vary between the T-zone and the cheeks on combination skin. The T-zone, which includes the forehead, nasal bridge, nose, and center of the chin, has an increased level of sebaceous gland activity. The skin is oily in these areas Avoid applying moisturizing preparations in the T-zone. On the rest of the face, use non oily products (containing humectants). 20 II-Vanishing / Foundation Creams Vanishing cream is an They are called vanishing emulsion of Stearic acid. creams because they seem The external phase is to disappear when rubbed water. into the skin. They are always oil in water emulsions. The emulsifying agent is soap (potassium stearate) Sometimes they are called or a mixture of soaps of foundation creams as they sodium, potassium and form a foundation or base ammonia. for powders. They may also be called day cream or stearate cream  Vanishing Cream When applied to skin ➔ continuous phase evaporates leaving behind a thin invisible film of stearic acid on skin ➔ Stearic acid gives pearly white shine to the skin. Early loose beauty powders did not adhere particularly if the skin has been cleaned with soap and waterwell but this could be improved if the skin was coated with a surface cream. A cold cream ➔ had a greasy feel ➔ so unsuitable Vanishing creams had a non-oily feel so were generally considered to be a better solution. for many women vanishing cream act as a base for face powder (a finishing cream), because it was the last skin-care cosmetic applied before powdering Presentation title 22  Foundation Cream This product is used on face to create an even base (foundation / groundwork) for the rest of makeup. It cover blemishes, correct skin tone, blur imperfections, conceal acne scarring and create an overall smooth and even skin. They must leave the skin surface non-greasy and matt so that the other make-up can be easily be applied over it.  Foundation Cream Components 1. Moisturizing base: water, oil or wax (glycerin and hyaluronic acid) 2. Pigments: Titanium dioxide and iron oxide. 3. Filler: Talc that ensures smooth distribution over the face 4. Perfumes & Preservatives e.g. Rose, Lavender Other ingredients: ✓Jojoba oil for dry skin or salicylic acid for acne ✓Vegetable oils, which improve the hydration and flexibility of the skin. ✓Vitamins: vitamin E ✓Ceramides: to strengthen the skin barrier. ✓UV filters: sun protection  Types Of Foundation 1. Cream Foundation: Normal to Dry skin, skin previously had acne scarring or matured skin. Not for oily. 2. Powder Foundation: Oily skin, Never for dry skin?? (powder can cling to dry patches and look too cakey) 3. Liquid Foundation: All skin types and Acne-prone skin. Thank you