FASH 1031 Chapter 7, 2024 2.pptx

Other Types of Textiles Chapter 7 FABRIC ANALYSIS FASH 1031 PROFESSOR: ROSALIA KOVARSKY Objectives To explain how textile materials can be constructed by methods other than weaving and knitting To be able to recognize the identifying characteristics of these material...

Other Types of Textiles Chapter 7 FABRIC ANALYSIS FASH 1031 PROFESSOR: ROSALIA KOVARSKY Objectives To explain how textile materials can be constructed by methods other than weaving and knitting To be able to recognize the identifying characteristics of these materials To know the end uses of these materials by being able to relate their performance properties https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYd0Rdu53Rw – nonwovens story  Ancient hand-made materials such as tapa (or bark cloth) and felt Nonwoven Fabrics are the forerunners of modern nonwovens Defined as a textile structure True felt is not a nonwoven, made with wool and wool blends produced by bonding or interlocking o Produced by matting the fibers with heat, moisture, and friction o Used to create molded hats, jackets, shoes, blankets, rugs of fibers resulting in a web of fibers Accomplished by the following means: Mechanical Chemical Thermal Solvent Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016 Nonwoven Fabrics Do not need to be finished. Could be embossed, flame Background retarded, made more hydrophilic or hydrophobic Excellent production rate, versatility, and low cost First nonwovens were introduced in 1942 In the 1960s, technology expanded variety of nonwovens being made Basic materials to produce nonwovens: Fibers – olefin, polyester, rayon Specialty chemicals (bonding agents) – provide strength Auxiliary agents – control flexibility, enhance texture, etc. Pellon® Corporation – big producer of nonwovens in USA, inner linings, interfacing for apparel Major suppliers: Freudenberg Group, DuPont nonwovens, Kimberly-Clark Corp., et. Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 3 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016  Two general categories of nonwovens: Durable and Disposable Nonwoven Fabrics Durable – reusable application – not intended to be thrown away after limited use (carpet backing, Nonwoven Fusible Interfacing protective clothing, fiberfill, geotextiles, etc.) Disposable – single or limited use – intentioned to be thrown away after a single use (medical, hygiene, food industry products) Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 4 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016  Manufacturing Nonwovens Fibers are the basic units of nonwoven structure Three manufacturing methods to produce nonwoven materials: Drylaid system – fibers manipulated while in a dry state Most used system Wetlaid system – fibers manipulated while in a wet state Least used system Fast and inexpensive Spunlaid system – thermoplastic fibers are blown as they are extruded Bonding methods Mechanical bonding (entanglement) Nonwovens products used in cosmetic industry Chemical bonding (adhesive) Thermal bonding (fusing) Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 5 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016 Carded-Web Nonwovens Carded-Web Nonwovens – forming a web of fibers and then bonding the fibers The largest volume by this method Fiber: any staple fiber Web formation: drylaid system – mechanical means (carding machine, air-blowing fibers), or wetlaid system – applying liquid Bonding methods: adhesive, heat fusion Fiber orientation in the web: unidirectional, cross- laid, or random web Uses: disposable items: hospital gowns, bed sheets, tablecloths, et. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vFqJtzV40E – carding wool Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 6 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016 Spunlaced Nonwovens Spunlaced Nonwovens – formed by the entanglement of staple fibers, using high-pressure water jets Fibers: staple fiber Web formation: wetlaid system Bonding methods: No binders used, fibers knot or curl around each other, causing mechanical binding (hydroentangling). Resulted material – soft, drapy, bulky Uses: durable and disposable items: medical robes, mattress pads, backing of quilted tablecloths and sanitary products, protective apparel Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 7 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016  Spunbonded Nonwovens – made from continuous extrusion of filaments into a web Spunbonded Nonwovens More economical process Physical and chemical properties of the fiber remain Spunbonded products: Are fairly opaque Have high strength to weight ratios Have high tear strength and puncture resistance Have good fray and crease resistance Produce minimum puckering in sewing Fibers: filaments Web formation: spunlaid system Bonding methods: thermal bonding, mechanical entanglement, adhesive bonding Fiber orientation in the web: random Uses: durable and disposable items: carpet backing, geotextiles, clothing interliners, shoe linings, mailing envelopes, house wrap – Tyvek®, protective apparel Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 8 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016 Melt-Blown Nonwovens Melt-Blown Nonwovens – produced similar to spun- bonded, but filaments are reduced to micro-denier size Potential shortcomings: low fiber strength low abrasion resistance Fibers: thermoplastic filaments microfibers staple Web formation: spunlaid system Bonding methods: No binders used, fibers thermoplasticity forms cohesive web Fiber orientation in the web: random Uses: durable and disposable items: insulation (ThinsulateTM), hospital/medical products, battery separators, filtration, etc. Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 9 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016 Needle-Punched Nonwovens Needle-Punched Nonwovens – made by the entanglement of staple fibers pierced by needle Look similar to wool felt Do not have the same molding ability as true felt An inexpensive method for producing fabric Can neutralize and absorb gases or liquids deployed in chemical warfare Fibers: any staple fiber Web formation: drylaid system Bonding methods: mechanical entangling Uses: durable items: Indoor/outdoor carpet made from olefin fibers, floor coverings and filters Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 10 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016  Fusible Nonwovens – made from thermoplastic Fusible Nonwovens fibers or thermoplastic films Used more widely in clothing than any other variety Used primarily as interlining for clothing Two functions: To provide shape for cut parts of garments To hold together garment parts like a skirt hem or shirt facing together Replaces the need for tailoring and stitching on the underliner portions of tailored clothing Smooth and stable in cleaning processes Brand names: Pellon® Fusible web nonwoven Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 11 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016  Fusible Nonwovens Cut interfacing slightly smaller than the shell fabric (~1/8” seam allowance for woven fabrics) Place interfacing, glue side down onto the back of the shell fabric Press. Heat and pressure will melt the adhesive and bond two fabrics together Knits require slightly different order of fusing (block fusing process) Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. Copyright © Bloomsbury 12 Publishing Inc. 2016  Nonwovens (summary) Name Carded- Spunlaced Spunbonded Melt-Blown Needle- Fusible Web Punched Web Drylaid Wetlaid Spunlaid Spunlaid Drylaid Spunlaid formation Wetlaid system Fiber Staple Staple Filaments Thermoplastic Staple Thermoplastic length filaments-to- fibers and films micro fibers-to- staple Bonding Adhesive No binders, Thermal, No binders, Mechanical Thermal methods Heat fusion hydroentangl mechanical fiber’s entanglement ing entanglement, thermoplasticity adhesive Uses Disposable Disposable Disposable Disposable and Durable items Clothing items and durable and durable durable items items items Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. Copyright © Bloomsbury 13 Publishing Inc. 2016  TEST YOUR UNDERSTANDING What is the similarity/difference between Spunbonded OF Nonwovens, Melt-Blown Nonwovens and Fusible Nonwovens. To answer: NONWOVENS Look at the length of the fibers Look at the method of web creation Look at the bonding method What is the similarity/difference Look at the end uses between Carded-Web Nonwovens and Spunlaced Nonwovens? To answer: Is there the similarity/difference between Needle- Look at the length of the fibers Punched Nonwovens and any other type? To answer: Look at the method of web creation Look at the length of the fibers Look at the bonding method Look at the method of web creation Look at the end uses Look at the bonding method Look at the end uses Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. Copyright © Bloomsbury 14 Publishing Inc. 2016 Hybrid Products Hybrid Products – two or more types of nonwovens are combined – increase versatility and extend marketplace reach Common types of nonwovens available: Nonwovens with other nonwovens for protective clothing Nonwovens with film for battery separators Nonwovens with foam for automotive landau tops Nonwovens with an extrusion coating for upholstery fabric Needle-punched nonwovens with melt-blown non- wovens for filtration applications Variety of properties: strength, thermal resistance, anti- microbial, water repellency Landau top car Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 15 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016 Nonwoven Wipes Wipes are produced in wet, dry, and coated varieties Categories of wipes: Baby wipes Disinfectant wipes Moist towelettes Medicated wipes Electrostatic wipes General purpose wipes Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 16 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016  Trade Shows and The Environment Associations Nonwoven conferences worldwide: Increasingly, there are more eco-friendly nonwoven ANEX Expo and Conference – products in the following markets: Asian Nonwovens Exhibition Baby-diaper INDEX – International Nonwovens Feminine-care Exhibition Adult incontinence SINCE – Shanghai International Biodegradable wipes Nonwoven Conference and Eco-friendly inks (soy) for prints Exhibition INDA – Association of Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, represents the nonwovens industry Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 17 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016  Felt Ranges from 50% to 100% wool Higher wool content – higher felt quality, can be blocked, Felt – oldest known textile shapes better. Interlocking of fiber surface Blended with cotton or rayon – reduced cost, lowered serrations holds the fibers strength (blending fibers have smoother surfaces and can’t interlock with the wool). together Does not fray or ravel, it can be blocked into shape in all Uses: hats, billiard-table covers, directions (no grain). Good for making hats. padding, crafts Excellent shock-absorbing and sound-absorbing material. Poor drapability, low tensile strength, low elastic recovery, propensity to form holes and tears that cannot be mended Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 18 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016 Bonded and Laminated Both materials are layered structures with different Materials constructions Bonded material – layered fabric in which a face fabric is joined to a backing fabric with an adhesive that does not add significant thickness Laminated material – layered fabric in which a face fabric is joined to a continuous sheet material Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 19 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016  Infinite variety of textile materials used with bonded cloth Two basic methods of producing bonded fabrics: Bonded Fabrics Wet-adhesive – adhesives are applied to fabric, then passed between hot rollers to activate and set adhesive Foam-flame bonding – thin layer of polyurethane foam is heated to make it tacky and adhesive The process for making adhesive-bonded materials Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 20 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016  Foam-laminated fabrics use foam as the middle layer Laminated Fabrics Intended for clothing insulation Relatively lightweight, lack drapability Hot-melt method is an additional way of laminating – thermoplastic material used as adhesive in middle between outer fabric and lining The process for making foam-laminated materials Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 21 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016  Quilted material consists of an insulating filler secured Quilted Material between two layers of fabrics Most quilted materials are made by sewing machines Insulating component of quilts may consist of: Polyester fiberfill – most widely used product, excellent resilience, light weight in thick layer Batting – thin layers of insulation, good resilience, lightweight Polyurethane foam – stiffer material, does not drape well Down – luxury product, lightest in weight, least resilient Both, laminated and quilted fabrics are made from three layers. Why can’t we group them in one Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 22 category? State the difference between them. Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016  Quilted Material Pattern variations on surface fabric Seams – source of heat loss. Uses: ski jackets, robes, quilts, mattress pads, sleeping bags Top image – quilt is stitched with thread Bottom image – threadless stitching (ultrasonic method) Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. Copyright © Bloomsbury 23 Publishing Inc. 2016  Mechanical bonding system Involves needles and threads used to sew or stitch yarns Stitch Bonding or fiber webs into a fabric Three different types of fabric produced this way: Malimo Maliwatt Malipol All three are trade names of the Karl Mayer company Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 24 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016  A fabric that consists of a decorative design created with threads or yarns on a netlike ground Lace Fabrics Laces may have full fabric width or narrow widths Some laces are handmade First produced in the early 1800s Some of the different styles of lace: Alencon lace All-over lace Chantilly Edging Flouncing Galloon Insertion Leavers lace Nottingham lace Re-embroidered lace Ribbon-hole lace All-over lace for bodice and sleeves Chantilly lace veil Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 25 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016 Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. Copyright © Bloomsbury 26 Publishing Inc. 2016 Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. Copyright © Bloomsbury 27 Publishing Inc. 2016  Making lace by hand – bobbin lace: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mr4t1sgXAA4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWQ-KZoePIo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgGCnPRJ2xI Learn to make lace: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dNWieGTzuo Fabric Science Chapter 7 28  Embroidery Embroidery – creating raised designs on woven fabrics, paper, plastic, or knitted fabrics Eyelet – embroidery fabric with small, round holes cut in the fabric Schiffli machine – about 1,000 needles working at the same time to produce embroidery https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TykT4xMP2oE – Schiffli machine Eyelet embroidery trim https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mxXAKuWiHF0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJ2e_ECpenA – quilting and embroidery machine Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 29 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016 Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. Copyright © Bloomsbury 30 Publishing Inc. 2016  Tufted fabrics – another type of pile fabric – extra Tufted Fabrics yarns are inserted into woven fabric Tufted fabrics are made only in heavier weights Almost all carpet is tufted https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2J94b_uNGTA – brush tufting machine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfFFGKkfWKg – tufting carpet Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 31 Copyright © Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. 2016 Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. Copyright © Bloomsbury 32 Publishing Inc. 2016 Q&A What is the difference between felt and a needle- punched nonwoven material? Differentiate by: Fiber content Production methods End uses Why coated fabrics are considered multicomponent fabrics? How to distinguish between high-pile knit and tufted fabric? Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. Copyright © Bloomsbury 33 Publishing Inc. 2016 @ home Study Chapter 7 and take notes Prepare for a quiz Quiz dates will be announced on blackboard Bring textbook and a swatch kit to every class Remember to bring a magnifier Bring scissors, tweezers, and a stapler and/or scotch tape for class activities and labs Fabric Science Chapter 7 Published by Fairchild Books, an imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc. Copyright © Bloomsbury 34 Publishing Inc. 2016