Dermaplaning Course Manual PDF

**Dermaplaning** My name is Katerina Angellotti, I'd like to welcome you to All About The Skin Academy. I am a Medical Aesthetician, Wife, Mother and also the Founder and Director. I started this mentoring academy to empower students and to teach you to take P.R.I.D.E in yourself. We Are Powerful!...

**Dermaplaning** My name is Katerina Angellotti, I'd like to welcome you to All About The Skin Academy. I am a Medical Aesthetician, Wife, Mother and also the Founder and Director. I started this mentoring academy to empower students and to teach you to take P.R.I.D.E in yourself. We Are Powerful! We Are Resilient! We Are Independent! We Are Determined! We Are Entrepreneurs! In this industry I have worn many different hats, I have been an educator, a sales representative, medical office manager and medical aesthetician. My passion is to share everything I have learned in these roles in this course. Whether you would like to become a sales representative, medical aesthetician, expand your skillset or grow your own business you have come to the right place. Let's get started. #### [Course Scheduling] 6 Hour Theory & Practical In-Clinic Setting **[Evaluations]** **Theory** **2 Practical Evaluations** **1 Written Test** **[Passing Requirements]** Students must successfully complete the practical evaluations and achieve an overall average of 80%+ to successfully complete this course. #### [Course Materials] Manual Starter Kit Online Resources #### #### [Course Description] This comprehensive training program is designed to expand the options for aestheticians aiming to grow a successful business. Dermaplaning, in conjunction with a variety of facials, can enhance skin rejuvenation. This course is designed with theoretical and practical training. Students will study the process of dermaplaning and its effect on the beauty industry, an in-depth analysis of the skin, and the applications of treatment. Students will learn the safety protocols involved with dermaplaning. Throughout the course the students will learn to assess the client's needs, demonstrate complete consultations, facilitate appropriate treatments, and perform dermaplaning treatments. Within a clinical setting the student will focus on hands on treatments that are in line with the current industry demands and standards. Upon completion of the course the students will be able to provide clients with thorough knowledge of dermaplaning and its effectiveness of treatment. Students will explain the benefits, treatment processes, indications, and contraindications for the most effective results as desired by each individual client. **COURSE OBJECTIVES:** **[Theory:]** - **Identify the layers of the skin and recognize skin irregularities** - **Recognize the aging skin process and discuss effective treatments at each stage** - **Recall professionalism techniques, client care, station set up and client draping** - **Know the importance of a complete consultation for the safety of each treatment** - **Explain client care, skin analysis, effective recommendations** - **Skin typing and classifications** - **Discuss client consultations, pre and post treatment, and charting of client's progress** - **Manage client files and discuss follow up protocols** - **Identify the process of business planning, pricing services, and marketing initiatives** **[Practical:]** - **Facilitate effective application of client care, greeting, consultations, and skin analysis** - **Demonstrate proper station set up, client draping, and ongoing client care** - **Explain the indications and contraindications associated with dermaplaning treatments** - **Prepare client for treatment** - **Discuss the various skin concerns treated by dermaplaning and facials** - **Communicate effectively with client throughout treatment process** - **Complete client treatment and follow up with service and product recommendations** - **Complete and review client files and provide ongoing follow up with each procedure** #### #### MARKING BREAKDOWN Written Test -- 20% Practical \#1 -- 40% Practical \#2 -- 40% **[Clinic Rules and Regulations]** The overall success of each student relies on full cooperation within the All About The Skin Inc. clinic. Rules are outlined to have a safe, reliable and effective learning environment for each student and those who are instructing the classroom. - Respectful of everyone in the clinic - Follow proper protocols and directions as outlined - Complete all assessments as instructed - Be punctual and prepared for learning - Remove outdoor footwear - Use time management effectively - Professional attire, communication both verbal and non-verbal - Follow health and safety as outlined by your instructors - Follow the privacy rules of the clinic as instructed which includes respect of other professional visitors, language and communication boundaries - Student are responsible to review all written material and be prepared ahead of the practical process within the clinic. Students will have access to instructions through email and within a class environment for questions and ongoing clarification. **Questions will be provided throughout the course content for your review of the material and to make notes.** WELCOME Dermaplaning is one of the hottest trends in the medical and Aesthetic Industry. Advanced Aesthetic Training is the leading authority on this procedure. We have successfully trained thousands of Aestheticians across the world as well as retrained Aestheticians that have taken seminars from other companies and schools. In this manual you will learn: - The practical skills needed to perform dermaplaning safely and effectively - Benefits that dermaplaning can provide to your clients - Indications and contraindications for treatment Anatomy & Physiology - Step by step procedure with photos - Facials - Theory of dermaplaning - And much more *Want to be your own boss?* ***JOIN THE LARGEST AND GROWING PROFESSION AS A SKIN CARE THERAPIST*** TABLE OF CONTENTS {#table-of-contents.TOCHeading} ================= INTRODUCTION 9 [WHY STUDY DERMAPLANING? 9](#why-study-dermaplaning) [WHAT IS DERMAPLANING? 10](#what-is-dermaplaning) [DERMAPLANING 11](#dermaplaning) [PROS FOR DERMAPLANING 12](#pros-for-dermaplaning) [CONS OF DERMAPLANING 12](#cons-of-dermaplaning) [HOW IT WORKS 13](#how-it-works) [DERMAPLANING FACTS 13](#dermaplaning-facts) [HOW IT WORKS 13](#how-it-works-1) [THE PROCEDURE 13](#the-procedure) [RISKS AND SIDE EFFECTS 14](#risks-and-side-effects) [WHAT TO EXPECT 14](#what-to-expect) [COST 14](#cost) [ADVANTAGES 15](#advantages) [TOP 11 BENEFITS OF DERMAPLANING 15](#top-11-benefits-of-dermaplaning) [DERMAPLANING VS WAXING 16](#dermaplaning-vs-waxing) [DERMAPLANING VS SHAVING 16](#dermaplaning-vs-shaving) [FACIAL TYPES 18](#facial-types) [WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF FACIALS? 18](#what-are-the-different-types-of-facials) [CLASSIC 18](#classic) [LYMPHATIC MASSAGE 18](#lymphatic-massage) [ELECTRIC CURRENT 18](#electric-current) [GALVANIC 19](#galvanic) [HIGH-FREQUENCY 19](#high-frequency) [MICRODERMABRASION 19](#microdermabrasion) [ACUPUNCTURE 20](#acupuncture) [HYDRATING 20](#hydrating) [HYDRAFACIAL 20](#hydrafacial) [OXYGEN 20](#oxygen) [CHEMICAL PEELS 20](#chemical-peels) [MICRONEEDLING 21](#microneedling) [PRP 21](#prp) [DERMAPLANING 21](#dermaplaning-1) [ENZYME 22](#enzyme) [AROMATHERAPY 22](#aromatherapy) [ANTI-AGING 22](#anti-aging) [BRIGHTENING 23](#brightening) [LED 23](#led) [LASER 23](#laser) [SKIN CARE 24](#skin-care) [PRODUCTS 24](#products) [SELECT THE CORRECT FACIAL PRODUCTS FOR YOUR CLIENT 24](#select-the-correct-facial-products-for-your-client) [EYE MAKEUP REMOVER 24](#eye-makeup-remover) [CLEANSING 24](#cleansing) [TONING 25](#toning) [EYE CREAMS 26](#eye-creams) [SUNSCREENS AND DAY PROTECTION PRODUCTS 26](#sunscreens-and-day-protection-products) [MOISTURIZERS 26](#moisturizers) [DID YOU KNOW 27](#did-you-know) [EXFOLIATION 28](#exfoliation) [CAUTION 31](#caution) [ABOUT EXFOLIATION 32](#about-exfoliation) [HOW IS EXFOLIATION DONE? 32](#how-is-exfoliation-done) [FACIAL MASKS 32](#facial-masks) [THE USE OF GAUZE FOR MASK APPLICATION 34](#the-use-of-gauze-for-mask-application) [FACIAL TREATMENTS 35](#_Toc186229445) [GUIDELINES FOR FACIAL TREATMENTS 35](#guidelines-for-facial-treatments) [CARRYING OUT A SKIN ANALYSIS 36](#carrying-out-a-skin-analysis) [COLOR 36](#color) [PROCEDURE FOR CLEANSING 38](#procedure-for-cleansing) [PROCEDURE FOR TONING 39](#procedure-for-toning) [BASIC FACIAL APPLICATION 39](#basic-facial-application) [SPECIAL NOTES FOR ACNE-PRONE SKIN 39](#special-notes-for-acne-prone-skin) [SHARPENING PERSONAL SKILLS 40](#sharpening-personal-skills) [CONSULTATION AND HOME CARE 40](#consultation-and-home-care) [EQUIPMENT 41](#equipment) [SAFE HANDLING OF SWANN-MORTON PRODUCTS 42](#safe-handling-of-swann-morton-products) [HOW SHOUD I DISPOSE OF USED NEEDLES OR SHARPS? 43](#how-shoud-i-dispose-of-used-needles-or-sharps) [WHAT SHOULD I DO IF I INJURE MYSELF WITH A USED NEEDLE OR BLADE? 44](#what-should-i-do-if-i-injure-myself-with-a-used-needle-or-blade) [PREPARATION 45](#preparation) [CLIENT PREPARATION 45](#client-preparation) [TROLLY SET UP 45](#trolly-set-up) [DERMAPLANING PROCEDURE 48](#dermaplaning-procedure) [RECOMMENDED PATTERN 48](#recommended-pattern) [ALPHA HYDROXY ACID PEELS 53](#alpha-hydroxy-acid-peels) [INDICATIONS 53](#indications) [BETA HYDROXY ACID PEELS 54](#beta-hydroxy-acid-peels) [INDICATIONS 54](#indications-1) [DERMAPLANING WITH AN AHA PEEL PROCEDURE 55](#dermaplaning-with-an-aha-peel-procedure) [RECOMMENDED PATTERN 55](#recommended-pattern-1) [DERMAPLANING WITH A BHA PEEL PROCEDURE 60](#dermaplaning-with-a-bha-peel-procedure) [RECOMMENDED PATTERN 60](#recommended-pattern-2) [AFTER CARE 65](#after-care) [DERMAPLANING TIPS 66](#dermaplaning-tips) [FAQs 67](#faqs) [REVIEW QUESTIONS 69](#review-questions) [CONTACT US 70](#contact-us) INTRODUCTION ============ Dermaplaning is a simple and safe clinical procedure that exfoliates the epidermis, while removing vellus hair. While the procedure has been around for 35 years or more, it has recently gained popularity in the esthetics field. The procedure is completed by gently gliding a stainless-steel scalpel blade across the skin to remove keratinized cells and \"peach fuzz\". Dermaplaning can help smooth scarring and acne, reduce uneven skin tone, as well as minimize fine lines and wrinkles. Dermaplaning as a stand-alone treatment is great to offer patients who want a deep exfoliation but are contraindicated to peeling agents. It is also a wonderful treatment to offer clients with excess vellus hair. Vellus hair causes a buildup of debris and oils in the follicle. Removing this hair gives client healthier looking skin and a radiant appearance. Removing hair and excess debris from the skin allows active skin care ingredients to penetrate better and with less product, saving your clients money on home care as well as promoting quicker results in achieving their skin care goals. Dermaplaning can also be used prior to chemical peels and other clinical treatments to increase effectiveness and produce deeper, more even results. This course includes step-by-step dermaplaning procedures with advanced protocols for the clinical aesthetician. ### WHY STUDY DERMAPLANING? Aestheticians should study and have a thorough understanding of dermaplaning because: - Providing skin care services to clients is extremely rewarding, helps busy clients to relax, improves their appearance, and helps clients feel better about themselves. - Knowing the basics of skin analysis and basic information about skin care products will enable the aesthetician to offer clients advice when they ask for it. - Although skin diseases cannot be treated, the aesthetician must be able to recognize adverse skin conditions and refer clients to seek medical advice from a physician. - Learning the basic techniques of dermaplaning will give a good overview of, and an ability to perform, these foundational services. - The aesthetician may enjoy this category of services and may consider specializing in skin care services. This study will create a perfect basis for making that decision. ### WHAT IS DERMAPLANING? Dermaplaning is a skin resurfacing procedure that people use to give the skin a smoother appearance. It uses a blade to remove the top layer of the skin. When a certified professional performs dermaplaning, experts generally consider it safe. However, a person should not try to do dermaplaning on themselves or others at home. The procedure aims to give facial skin a smooth, youthful, and radiant appearance. As well as smoothing skin and removing "peach fuzz," proponents claim that dermaplaning can help with acne scars, dry skin, sun-damaged skin, and small wrinkles. DERMAPLANING ============ Dermaplaning is a simple and safe procedure for exfoliating the epidermis and ridding the skin of fine vellus hair (peach fuzz). It has been used for many years, but many aestheticians do not even know it exists, and certainly, many do not use it. When clients hear the word Dermaplaning, they quickly associate the term with the procedure known as dermabrasion and won't even consider it as a possible treatment. Dermabrasion is a medical procedure in which the skin is abraded down to the dermis using a whisk like device. There are many complications associated with dermabrasion, including infections and scarring, which is why it is not commonly used anymore. Dermaplaning, on the other hand, is a simple shaving of the epidermis. Because Dermaplaning is a quick procedure with few to no adverse effects, it has quickly gained popularity among aestheticians across the country. Using a scalpel and a delicate touch, the aesthetician abrades the surface of the skin using light feathering strokes. Dermaplaning temporarily removes the fine vellus hair and skin cells of the face, leaving a very smooth surface. As with any type of exfoliation, the removal of dead skin cells allows home care products to be more effective, reduces the appearance of fine lines, evens skin tone and assists in reducing milia, closed and open comedones, and minor breakouts associated with congested pores. Dermaplaning can be an effective exfoliation method for clients that have coupe rose (tiny blood vessels near the surface of the skin), sensitive skin or allergies that prevent the use of microdermabrasion or chemical peels. Due to the contours of the face, certain areas of the face (such as the eyelids and nose) are not treatable using this method. Dermaplaning can be used for any skin type and anyone with: - acne scars - dull skin - dry skin sun-damaged skin - fine wrinkles ### PROS FOR DERMAPLANING This is a great treatment to offer to clients who are pregnant or nursing who want a deep exfoliation but are not allowed to use peeling agents on their skin because of the risk that the chemicals will be absorbed into the blood stream and may be transferred to the fetus or infant. It is also a first choice for clients who have excess vellus hair on the skin. This hair often causes a build -up of dirt and oils in the follicles, so removing the hair gives the patient healthier looking skin. **If the client is looking to get a laser treatment or a chemical peel, Dermaplaning can be an excellent way to prepare their skin for it. Of course, the time needed for the chemical peel to work is shorter than without Dermaplaning, since plenty of dead skin cells have already been removed and will increase the efficiency of the peel.** **It leaves the clients skin looking bright and getting brighter and smoother skin is** **definitely one of the most important Dermaplaning pros. The procedure has an** **instant effect, and the client will find that any cosmetic product that is applied on their skin works better, while makeup glides easier than ever before.** Dermaplaning can also make a difference when it comes to fine lines, wrinkles, acne scarring, and superficial hyperpigmentation. Unlike more aggressive procedures, like microdermabrasion, Dermaplaning has very little downtime, and the side effects include leaving the skin a little red and puffy. In some cases, flaking can occur after 48-72 hours, but once that is out of the way, the client will be left with a glowing complexion. ### CONS OF DERMAPLANING With Dermaplaning becoming a popular procedure, it is important to be aware of specific information. - Training on Dermaplaning should be commenced before offering to clients. - The face is not flat. It is very easy to nick or cut a client's face. Caution should also be taken around areas of excess skin or thin skin as the blade can easily catch. In addition, avoid areas that are raised such as moles or inflamed breakouts. - Dermaplaning should be practiced before offering on the menu. For example, treatments may take longer when learning how to conduct; or if the skin is too dry, a rash may develop if an area is excessively scraped. HOW IT WORKS ============ ### DERMAPLANING FACTS Dermaplaning is a cosmetic procedure that removes the top layers of dead skin and vellus hair. The procedure aims to make the skin's surface look smooth. Dermaplaning is safe for most people, with little risk of side effects when it's performed by a certified aesthetician. This procedure does not require any downtime for recovery, which makes it extremely convenient. The most difficult part may be finding a trained provider who can administer this treatment. Dermaplaning is not covered by insurance, and sessions can run between \$150 and \$250 each. This treatment is effective for people looking to make their skin appear more youthful, smooth, and bright, but results typically only last three weeks. ### HOW IT WORKS When looking at the tool used for dermaplaning treatments, it resembles a razor that would be used on body hair. Please note, the at home tools or things advertised do NOT do the same thing. In fact, faster hair growth can be caused and the client is more likely to hurt themself. It is ALWAYS recommended getting this service done by a professional. The basic concept of dermaplaning is the same as shaving. By aiming a sterile blade at a 45-degree angle and skillfully scraping it across the skin, to remove dead cells, scar tissue, and other debris that may be making the skin's surface look uneven. Skin is exposed daily to harsh environmental toxins, irritants, and sun damage. This can cause the top layer of skin to appear dull, and it can make it look aged. Dermaplaning clears away those damaged skin cells so newer skin cells are what the client will notice when looking in the mirror. ### THE PROCEDURE During a dermaplaning procedure, the client should not feel any pain. They may feel a tingling sensation during the prep part of the treatment. First, they will lie down on the treatment bed in a clean, comfortable room. The aesthetician will use a manual dermaplaning tool to scrape over the skin at a 45-degree angle. This will continue for 20 to 30 minutes, on average, as they gently work to exfoliate the client's skin. After the treatment is finished, the aesthetician will soothe the skin with an aftercare product and sunscreen to protect the face. ### RISKS AND SIDE EFFECTS Dermaplaning is a low-risk procedure. Side effects may include slight redness in the face in the hours after getting the treatment. Some people develop whiteheads on their skin a day or two after dermaplaning. Infection and scarring are rare after dermaplaning, but can occur. Another possible side effect is patchy skin pigment in the areas of the procedure, which may decrease or disappear as time goes on. ### WHAT TO EXPECT No downtime is needed to recover from a dermaplaning treatment. The client may experience redness or feel like their skin is scraped in the two or three days right after the procedure. They may notice that their skin looks brighter immediately after the dermaplaning treatment, but it often takes a few days to appreciate the full results. As redness subsides, they will be able to see the results more clearly in the days afterward. Results of dermaplaning are not permanent. The procedure lasts up to three weeks. After three weeks to a month, the results will have faded. Most clients book in packages to save money and have a monthly routine. After a dermaplaning treatment, they will need to be extra careful about sun exposure. Sun damage could reverse the effects of dermaplaning or create pigment blotches on freshly uncovered skin cells and are at more risk of a burn. In the weeks after a dermaplaning treatment, clients should apply sunscreen daily. ### COST Dermaplaning treatments are charged per session, and may vary depending on the salon. The aesthetician can charge up to \$250 on one 30-minute session of dermaplaning depending on their location and experience. Right after dermaplaning, the skin is able to deeply absorb and benefit from a chemical peel in a way it cannot do at other times. When doing a dermaplaning session you may add a chemical peel as an add-on for an additional \$50 to \$80 depending on the peel. There is little to no downtime required after a dermaplaning treatment, and clients may even fit in an express treatment during their lunch break! ADVANTAGES ========== Did you know Marilyn Monroe regularly shaved her face? Ask any skin care professional (or Hollywood actress) what the secret to flawless, youthful skin is, and they\'ll tell you it\'s exfoliation. ### TOP 11 BENEFITS OF DERMAPLANING 1. Improves skin texture 2. Eliminates vellus hair and dead skin cells 3. Increases product absorption & efficacy (products work better) 4. Promotes cellular proliferation (the anti-aging BFF) 5. Minimizes fine lines and wrinkles 6. Lessen acne occurrence 7. Makeup application is smooth and flawless 8. No down time (can schedule this at lunch -- seriously!) 9. Brightens skin and reduces hyperpigmentation 10. Great alternative for those with sensitive skin or rosacea 11. Safe for all skin types WHAT MUST THE CLIENT NOT EXPECT FROM THE TREATMENT? Regular use of Dermaplaning treatments can improve or eliminate superficial skin problems. It works on all skin types and colours to produce subtle changes, without discolouration or scarring. However, it is not effective for problems such as stretch marks, keloids (an overgrowth of scar tissue at the site of a healed skin injury) reducing wrinkles, or deep acne scars. GREAT FOR MEN & WOMEN!  ### ### DERMAPLANING VS WAXING Waxing is a more painful hair removal method, and this can be especially problematic when done on a sensitive area such as the face. Dermaplaning is a gentle procedure. Dermaplaning evens out the skin tone, while waxing can sometimes cause skin irritation and discoloration. There is no downtime after Dermaplaning, but bumps often develop after waxing, and there is also some redness for a few days. Because Dermaplaning is non-invasive it has a low risk of complications and is one of the safest skin rejuvenation procedures available. Some clients report redness or dry feeling in their skin after a treatment, but this is temporary. Very rarely the skin can be nicked. This typically heals almost on the spot, remember most men use a blade on their faces almost every day and nick themselves regularly with no long- term effects! ### DERMAPLANING VS SHAVING Dermaplaning is not facial shaving... Shaving is defined as \"cutting the hair off one\'s face with a razor.\" Dermaplaning uses a scalpel blade, not a razor, but it does cut the hair off the face. Dermaplaning works in similar fashion to at-home razors but is significantly more aggressive. Both the blade and razors are placed at a 45-degree angle to achieve optimum results with a minimal result in injury (the occasional nick). So, what\'s the difference? - Dermaplaning is more aggressive than shaving - Dermaplaning uses a surgical, disposable blade - Dermaplaning cannot be performed at home - Dermaplaning blades are singular, whereas razors are usually stacked with 2-3 blades - Dermaplaning is a skin rejuvenation treatment intended to remove dead skin cells and improve fine lines, wrinkles, and improve skin tone and texture - Dermaplaning should not be used to get rid of terminal hair (such as beard hair) - Dermaplaning should not be received any sooner than 21 days apart.  FACIAL TYPES ============ ### WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF FACIALS? Spa facial treatments are often seen as a luxury reserved for special occasions; however, many people fail to realize that facials can be an impactful part of a regular skin care routine as well. But it can be easy to get lost in the jargon of a spa treatment menu and feel a little dazed when it comes to figuring out what exactly it is that client needs or wants. The truth is, there are so many types of facials because they all address varying skin concerns using an array of methods to do so. Thankfully, skilled aestheticians are well versed in all types of facials and love sharing knowledge. ### CLASSIC A classic or standard facial usually involves cleansing, exfoliating, extractions, a mask, and a moisturizer. Given its calming nature, this facial can be a great choice for anyone with normal to dry skin. Extractions, the process of cleaning out clogged pores, are safe for most skin types, but using steam first will soften the pores, then extract with gauze-wrapped fingers. However, anyone with rosacea or eczema should skip the steaming, which can exacerbate those conditions. Use a warm cloth instead. Extractions can pinch and cause slight discomfort, but if the process is too intense, simply stop. An oxygen facial is a great example of a classic plumping and hydrating facial. ### LYMPHATIC MASSAGE Sometimes combined with other treatments, a lymphatic massage facial incorporates gentle kneading of targeted areas of the face. This helps to relieve tension and reduce water retention, therefore minimizing puffiness, by stimulating the lymphatic glands found in the face. Generally speaking, the lymphatic system is an important part of the immune system which aids in the removal of extra fluid and waste from the body. In addition, this type of facial can boost circulation leaving the client with a bright, glowing complexion. ### ELECTRIC CURRENT Just as it sounds, an electric current facial uses a microcurrent device and wet sponges to deliver low levels of electricity to the face and neck. The current naturally helps to contour the face by stimulating and tightening the underlying muscles, making it a less-invasive substitute for other injectables. The result is an anti-aging effect which helps smooth wrinkles and leaves the client with a more lifted appearance. These tightening facials reduce the appearance of damage. ### GALVANIC Galvanic Facial includes the use of galvanic currents to stimulate the face. It's considered a non-surgical facelift. The procedure is all about stimulating the muscles. This treatment tones the facial muscles and repositions them to give the client a more lifted face. It reshapes the face, giving them a more defined look. The galvanic facial is the ultimate exercise for the face. Out of all the different types of facials, this is one of the best anti-aging facials for wrinkles and aging skin to contour the face. It's suitable for all skin types to eliminate the signs of aging. The facial also includes infusing several skincare products into the face. The currency makes it easier for the skin to absorb these products more efficiently. The Galvanic facial is perfect for minimizing wrinkles, toning up the face, promoting collagen growth, and firming the skin. The results are visible almost instantly. But several treatments are needed to maintain the results. ### HIGH-FREQUENCY High-frequency, sometimes referred to as radiofrequency, is a type of facial treatment where electrical currents produce a certain amount of heat to stimulate deeper layers of the skin. This anti-inflammatory heat kills bacteria, so it is perfect for acne-prone skin, as well as preventing new pustules from forming. The benefits also include getting rid of acne scars. ### MICRODERMABRASION Microdermabrasion is a minimally invasive type of facial treatment. Basically, this is a device with a crystal or diamond tip. This device brushes off the upper layer of skin while vacuuming anything that comes off. It works like sandpaper over the face. This treatment removes dead skin cells accumulated over the face. It promotes cell turnover, collagen and elastin growth. The resurfaced skin looks healthier with less visible lines, pores, and scars. It is perfect for anyone at any age who wants to get rid of fine lines, scars, and dullness. Microdermabrasion can give clean, softer, plump, and glowing skin. The client needs to avoid sun exposure after the treatment. They can expect a certain amount of redness after the treatment. It would not be advised to book an appointment the day before a big event. ### ACUPUNCTURE Acupuncture facial is a treatment where tiny needles are placed on several parts of the face. These controlled micro-injuries stimulate collagen growth. The benefits of acupuncture facials are firming up loose skin, minimizing wrinkles, and getting rid of scars through cell regeneration. ### HYDRATING A hydrating facial is like watering a plant. It's specifically designed to hydrate dry and dehydrated skin. It starts with a classic facial, but the products are specifically chosen. These are potent humectants to deeply hydrate and moisturize the skin. A hydrating facial gives the client plump, bouncy, and supple skin instantly. ### HYDRAFACIAL If the client is suffering from blackheads, whiteheads, and dullness without a major acne problem, HydraFacial may be a great choice. The HydraFacial machine deeply cleanses the outer layer of the skin in a vacuum-like manner. It sucks any dirt and grime off the face. It is the ultimate decongesting facial. After cleansing, the same device infuses several serums into the skin, giving it clean, hydrated, bright, and a radiant glow. HydraFacial is suitable for dry, normal, combination, and oily skin. This fun facial is sometimes the first step for other facials. ### OXYGEN An oxygen facial includes the use of a device that sprays out oxygen in a highly- pressured form. After exfoliation and cleansing, apply several vitamin-rich serums to the skin. That is where the device comes in. It feeds and nourishes the skin by infusing these antioxidants into it. Oxygen facials are suitable for all skin types. It is perfect for hydrating and brightening the skin. People with dull and tired-looking skin can find this facial highly beneficial. ### CHEMICAL PEELS Chemical peels are invasive facial treatments that use chemical acids to promote skin turnover. There are 3 different types of chemical peels. Also, there are several types of acids in different concentrations to address various skin issues. Chemical peels are one of the most effective skin resurfacing treatments. The benefits include decongesting the skin, getting rid of deep-set wrinkles, scars, age spots, and photodamage. It's the ultimate anti-aging skin rejuvenation where the skin slowly peels off and resurfaces a much healthier layer. Chemical peels boost collagen growth through skin turnover. The pain and the cost depend on the type of peel the client gets which is for the aesthetician to decide. Some types of chemical peels require a physician in a medical facility. But a light peel, also known as lunchtime peel, can be done in spas. The lightest chemical peel may take 2 days to heal whereas a deep peel may take up to 6 months. Learn more about different types of chemical peels and facials listed by taking additional courses with us All About the Skin Mentoring Academy. ### MICRONEEDLING A microneedling facial is inflicting controlled wounds into the skin through tiny needles. This is an invasive treatment that requires numbing cream to avoid pain. Microneedling promotes cell turnover and collagen growth by creating tiny muscle tears. These microscopic injuries cause the skin to switch to an urgent healing mode. And this results in healthier skin. It is a very popular anti-aging facial treatment to tighten the skin and get rid of lines. There are some at-home kits as well, but they can have potential risks, especially the cheap ones by unreliable brands. ### PRP Also known as the vampire facial, PRP refers to platelet-rich plasma. In this facial, blood is drawn (must be certified in phlebotomy) and spun in a centrifuge to separate red and white blood cells. The white blood cells are extracted and this highly concentrated form of plasma is infused into your skin through microneedling. The growth factors in the plasma help with collagen growth. The vampire facial is perfect for tightening the skin and reducing the signs of aging. ### DERMAPLANING Dermaplaning is a type of advanced exfoliation where a surgical scalpel blade is gently scraped along the outermost layer of the skin. It removes dead skin cells over the face as well as peach fuzz. After dermaplaning, the skin is infused with several antioxidants to get clean, smooth, and fresh skin. Dermaplaning is suitable for all skin types. However, people with active acne should stay away until the breakouts dry out, because the resurfacing treatment will irritate the acne and cause further inflammation. Benefits of dermaplaning include smoother and glowing skin and better absorption of skincare products. ### ENZYME The highlight of this facial is the facial masks used in the treatment. The facial starts with a basic steaming, cleansing, and exfoliation. Then, a type of mask stays on the face for about 30 minutes. The name of this facial comes from the fruit enzymes used in the mask. An enzyme facial is ideal for hyperpigmentation, fine lines, mild scarring, and sun damage. There's no visible skin peeling in an enzyme facial. However, healthier, gently exfoliated, and brighter skin is noticable. ### AROMATHERAPY This facial is as relaxing as it gets. Aromatherapy facial starts with steaming and cleansing. Then a combination of essential oils is used to massage the face and the neck area. It's all about relieving tension through therapeutic oils. All skin types can benefit from aromatherapy facials to nourish the skin with antioxidants. After the massage, vitamin-rich products are applied to the skin. The client can leave the spa relaxed, replenished, energized, and freshened. ### ANTI-AGING Very similar to a standard facial, an anti-aging facial utilizes active ingredients and procedures to attack the signs of aging which are present on mature skin -- think ages 30 and up. Typically, these facials consist of cleansing, exfoliation, or skin resurfacing (often as microdermabrasion treatments), masks, deep-pore cleansing with extractions, and hydration elements. Antioxidant-heavy serums and ingredients like collagen to help revitalize the skin may also be incorporated. But be sure to give the skin time to heal after this one as it can lead to flaking and peeling depending on the strength of the various elements. ### BRIGHTENING If the client has ashy, sun damaged, or dull skin a brightening facial can help. Specifically targeting hyperpigmentation, it evens out complexion using powerful antioxidants such as Vitamin C. The process typically involves a combination of masks, enzyme peels, and acid treatments to remove the build-up of dead skin cells. The result is radiant and glowing skin. ### ### LED Also known as Color Light Therapy, a LED (light-emitting diode) facial harnesses specific wavelengths of light to address breakouts and inflammation making it the perfect facial for acne. In addition, the pain-free technique has been shown to help stimulate cell growth, improve overall complexion, reduce redness, minimize the appearance of sunspots or fine lines, and smooth wrinkles. They are noninvasive, have no harmful side effects, and no downtime. ### LASER Finally, we have laser facials which sound a lot more sci-fi than they really are. By using a laser to remove the top layer of skin, this type of facial is able to gently resurface the face and correct minor flaws -- hence why it is sometimes referred to as laser resurfacing. A laser facial can be used to minimize the appearance of wrinkles, age spots, uneven skin tone, sun damage, and scars. **\ ** SKIN CARE ========= ### PRODUCTS There are many, many types of skin care products available for salon use and for the client's home care. Most skin care products are designed for specific skin types or conditions. Major categories of skin care products are described below. ### SELECT THE CORRECT FACIAL PRODUCTS FOR YOUR CLIENT The choice of massage media is important to provide an effective service. It is determined by the client's skin type, whether they have normal, dry, greasy or a combination skin. ### EYE MAKEUP REMOVER This is a very gentle product, finer than a cleanser to remove make up from the delicate eye area. It can be in the form of lotions, creams and wash off gels. There are also products to remove waterproof mascara. ### CLEANSING Skin cleansing preparations range among the essential skin caring products. They are part of the daily hygiene and a prerequisite for further skin care measures. Hence, there is a great variety of different preparations and applications. For example -- creams, lotions, milks, facial washes, and gels. The aim of cleansing is to remove: - Surface dirt - All make-up - The top layer of dead skin cells - Potentially harmful microorganisms (bacteria) - Sweat and sebum from the skin It is recommended to cleanse morning and night. Cleansers are designed to clean the surface of the skin and to remove makeup. There are basically two types of cleansers: cleansing milks and foaming cleansers. Cleansing milks are non-foaming lotion cleansers designed to cleanse dry and sensitive skin types and to remove makeup. They can be applied with the hands or an implement, but they must be removed with a dampened facial sponge, soft cloth, or cotton pad. Ingredients are sometimes added to cleansing milks to make them more specific to a given skin type. Foaming cleansers are cleansers containing surfactants (detergents) which cause the product to foam and rinse off easily. These products are generally for combination or oilier skin types, although there are some rinse-off cleansers for dry and sensitive skin. Clients love using these products because they may be used quickly and easily in the shower. They have varying amounts of detergent ingredients to treat specific levels of oiliness. Foaming cleansers, like cleansing milks, may have special ingredients to make them more specific for certain skin types. Some have antibacterial ingredients for acne-prone skin. ### TONING Toners come in the forms of lotions, astringents, skin tonics, bracers, and fresheners. The aim of toning is to: - Eliminates any traces of remaining cleanser from the skin - Tighten the skin - Stimulates the circulation It is recommended to tone morning and night. Toners, also known as fresheners or astringents, are lotions that help rebalance the pH and remove remnants of cleanser from the skin. They may also contain ingredients that help to hydrate or soothe, and they may sometimes contain an exfoliating ingredient to help remove dead cells. Fresheners and astringents are usually stronger products, often with higher alcohol content, and are used to treat oilier skin types. Toning products are applied with cotton pads after cleansing. Some alcohol-free toners can be sprayed onto the face. ### EYE CREAMS This is used around the delicate eye area. There are many different benefits of the cream for example, anti-wrinkle, hydrating, reducing puffiness, soothing, and refreshing. It is recommended to use day and evening. ### SUNSCREENS AND DAY PROTECTION PRODUCTS Shielding the skin from sun exposure is probably the most important habit to benefit the skin. Cumulative sun exposure causes the majority of skin cancers and prematurely ages the skin. Most sun exposure over a lifetime is from casual sun exposure. Therefore, every client should be instructed to use a daily sunscreen. Look for daily moisturizers that contain broad-spectrum sunscreens, which protect against both UVA and UVB light. A sun protection factor (SPF) rating of 15 or higher is considered to be adequate strength for daily use. SPF measures how long someone can be exposed to the sun without burning. For example, if someone normally burns in an hour, an SPF-2 sunscreen allows the person to stay in the sun two times as long without burning. Sunscreens with higher SPF's are appropriate for extended outdoor exposure and for sun-sensitive individuals Sunscreens are available in lotion, fluid, and cream forms. Lotions are suitable for combination skin, fluids for oily skin, and creams for dry skin. ### MOISTURIZERS Moisturizing ensures that the skin is smooth and supple. The skin on the face gets dry easily because of the weather. Moisturizing forms a film over the skin and helps in containing the natural moisture of the skin. They can come in forms of creams or milk. It is recommended to use a day cream in the mornings and a night cream in the evening. Night creams are an absorbent intensive rich cream which restores the skin's well-being without leaving the skin feeling oily**.** Moisturizers are products that help increase the moisture content of the skin surface. Moisturizers help diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They are basically mixtures of humectants, also known as hydrators or water-binding agents, which are ingredients that attract water and emollients, which are oily or fatty ingredients that prevent moisture from leaving the skin. - Moisturizers for oily skin are most often in lotion form and generally contain smaller amounts of emollient. Oilier skin does not need as much emollient because oily skin produces more than adequate amounts of protective sebum. - Moisturizers for dry skin are often in the form of a heavier cream, and they contain more emollients, which are needed by alipidic skin. All moisturizers may have other ingredients that perform additional functions. These ingredients may include soothing agents for sensitive skin, AHAs or peptides for aging skin, or sunscreens. Night treatments are usually more intensive products designed for use at night to treat specific skin problems. These products are generally heavier than day-use products, and they theoretically contain higher levels of conditioning ingredients. Serums are concentrated products that generally contain higher concentrations of ingredients designed to penetrate the skin and treat various skin conditions. They are typically used at home, and they are applied under a moisturizer or sunscreen. Ampoules are individual doses of serum, sealed in small vials. Massage creams are lubricants used to make the skin slippery during massage. They often contain oils or petroleum. If a massage cream is used during a facial treatment, it must be thoroughly removed before any other product can penetrate the skin. There is a trend toward using treatment products that penetrate the skin during massage. For example, treatment products may be used to increase skin hydration or to soothe redness-prone skin. One of the biggest benefits of massage is that it increases product absorption which, in turn, increases the conditioning effect of treatment products. ### DID YOU KNOW A valuable ingredient in moisturizers, particularly in day creams, is sunscreen. Not only does sunscreen guard against premature aging of the skin, but also, when used consistently, it is one of the best ways to help prevent skin cancer.  ### ### EXFOLIATION Exfoliating involves the removal of the oldest dead skin cells on the skin\'s outermost surface; this aids cell renewal and leaves the skin feeling very smooth and soft. This can be performed using a cleanser and a brush, facial scrubs, and peels. It is recommended to exfoliate once a week. Exfoliants are products that help bring about exfoliation. Removing dead cells from the surface of the skin allows the skin to look smoother and clearer. Exfoliants help clear the skin of clogged pores and can improve the appearance of wrinkles, aging, and hyperpigmentation. Cosmetology professionals may use products that remove dead surface cells from the stratum corneum. Deeper, surgical-level peels must only be administered by dermatologists and plastic surgeons. Exfoliation may be accomplished by using mechanical exfoliants or chemical exfoliants. Mechanical exfoliants are products used to physically remove dead cell build-up. Gommages, also known as roll-off masks, are peeling creams that are rubbed off of the skin, and microdermabrasion scrubs, scrubs that contain aluminum oxide crystals, along with other granular scrubs, are examples of mechanical exfoliants. Microdermabrasion can also be used as a machine treatment, which is briefly discussed earlier. Skin-brushing machines are another example of mechanical exfoliation. Chemical exfoliants are products that contain chemicals that either loosen or dissolve dead cell build-up. They are either used for a short time (although some may be worn as a day or night treatment) or combined in a moisturizer. Popular exfoliating chemicals are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs); these are gentle, naturally occurring acids that remove dead skin cells by dissolving the bonds and intercellular cement between cells. As dead cells are removed from the surface over time, wrinkles appear less deep, skin discolorations may fade, clogged pores are loosened and reduced, new clogged pores are prevented, and skin is smoother and more hydrated. These acids encourage cell renewal, resulting in firmer and healthier-looking skin. Salon AHA exfoliants, also known as peels, contain larger concentrations of AHA, usually around 20 to 30%. They should never be used unless the client has been using 10% AHA products at home for at least two weeks prior to the higher concentration salon treatment and using a daily facial sunscreen product. Enzyme peels, also known as keratolytic enzymes or protein-dissolving agents, are a type of chemical exfoliant that works by dissolving keratin protein in the surface cells of the skin. Usually, enzyme products are made using plant-extracted enzymes from papaya (resulting in an enzyme known as papain) or pineapple (resulting in an enzyme known as bromelain), or they are made from an enzyme derived from beef by-products (resulting in an enzyme known as pancreatin). Enzymes sometimes are blended into scrubs or wearable products, but they are most often designed for use in the salon. There are two basic types of keratolytic enzyme peels. The first are cream-type enzyme peels (gommage) that usually contain papain. They are applied to the skin and allowed to dry for a few minutes. They form a crust, which is then rolled off the skin. The second and most popular type of enzyme peel is a powder that is mixed with water in the treatment room and applied to the face. This type of enzyme treatment does not dry the skin and can even be used during a steam treatment. Proper exfoliation may improve the appearance of the skin in the following ways: - Reduces clogged pores and skin oiliness - Increases moisture content and hydration - Promotes skin smoothness - Reduces hyperpigmentation - Decreases uneven skin color - Eliminates or softens wrinkles and fine lines - Increases elasticity In addition, proper exfoliation speeds up cell turnover and allows for better penetration of treatment creams and serums. Makeup applies more evenly on exfoliated skin. A white and black sign with a exclamation mark Description automatically generated ### CAUTION Certain skin conditions can be easily inflamed by mechanical exfoliation. Also, certain medications may thin the skin, making it more susceptible to inflammation, bruising, or blistering. Do not use brushing machines, scrubs, or any harsh mechanical peeling techniques on the following skin types and conditions: - Skin with many visible capillaries - Thin skin that reddens easily - Older skin that is thin and bruises easily or the skin of persons using blood thinning medications - Skin being medically treated with tretinoin (retinoic acid or Retin-A®), isotretinoin, azelaic acid, adapalene (Differin®), AHA, or salicylic acid (found in many common skin products) - Acne-prone skin with inflamed papules and pustules Over-exfoliation of the skin can result in ultrasensitive and inflamed skin. Never use an exfoliant more often than recommended by the manufacturer. Combining more than one type of exfoliation may lead to irritation. Always carefully advise your client on the proper use of a home care exfoliant, including the need for the use of a daily sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15. ### ABOUT EXFOLIATION Why exfoliate the skin? The skin is constantly generating new skin cells at the lower layer of the epidermis and sending them to the surface of the skin. As the cells rise to the surface they gradually die and become filled with keratin. These keratinized (hardened) skin cells are essential because they give our skin its protective quality. As we age the process of cell turnover slows down. Cells start to pile up unevenly on the skin's surface, giving it a dry, rough, dull appearance. Exfoliation is beneficial because it removes those cells that are clinging on, revealing the fresher, younger skin cells below. ### HOW IS EXFOLIATION DONE? The dead skin cells are physically rubbed off with an abrasive. On the face, mechanical exfoliation ranges from scrubs using small, round, gentle abrasives like jojoba beads. ### FACIAL MASKS Masks, also known as masques, are concentrated treatment products often composed of mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, botanical extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish the skin. Clay-based masks are oil-absorbing cleansing masks that have an exfoliating effect and an astringent effect on oily and combination skin, making large pores temporarily appear smaller. They may have additional beneficial ingredients for soothing, or they may include antibacterial ingredients like Sulphur, which is helpful for acne-prone skin. Cream masks are masks often containing oils and emollients as well as humectants, and they have a strong moisturizing effect. They do not dry on the skin like clay masks do, and they are often used to moisturize dry skin. Gel masks can be used for sensitive or dehydrated skin, and they do not dry hard. They often contain hydrators and soothing ingredients, thus helping to plump surface cells with moisture, making the skin look more supple and more hydrated. Alginate masks are often seaweed based. They come in a powder form and are mixed with water or serums. After mixing, they are quickly applied to the face. They dry to form a rubberized texture. A treatment cream, which is a specialty product designed to facilitate change in the skin's appearance, or a serum is generally applied under alginate masks. The alginate mask forms a seal that encourages the skin's absorption of the serum or treatment cream underneath. Alginate masks are generally used only in the salon. Paraffin wax masks are specially prepared facial masks containing paraffin and other beneficial ingredients. They are melted at a little more than body temperature before application. The paraffin quickly cools to a lukewarm temperature and hardens to a candle-like consistency. Paraffin masks are applied over a treatment cream to allow the cream's ingredients to penetrate more deeply into the surface layers of the skin. Eye pads and gauze are used in a paraffin mask application because facial hair could stick to the wax if it is not covered, making the mask difficult and painful to remove. Modelage masks contain special crystals of gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient. As with paraffin masks, Modelage masks are used with a treatment cream. Modelage masks are mixed with cold water immediately before application and applied about 1⁄4-inch thick. After application, the Modelage mask hardens. The chemical reaction that occurs when the plaster and the crystals mix with water produces a gradual increase in temperature that reaches approximately 105 degrees Fahrenheit. As the mask is left on the skin, the temperature gradually cools, until it has cooled down completely. The setting time for Modelage masks is approximately 20 minutes. Modelage masks sometimes vary in mixing technique or timing. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions for the product being used. The heat generated by a Modelage mask increases blood circulation and is very beneficial for dry, mature skin or for skin that looks dull and lifeless. This type of mask is not recommended for use on sensitive skin, skin with capillary problems, oily skin, or skin with blemishes. Modelage masks can become quite heavy on the face and should not be applied to the lower neck. These masks should never be used on clients who suffer from claustrophobia, which is a fear of being closed in or confined. ### THE USE OF GAUZE FOR MASK APPLICATION Gauze is a thin, open-meshed fabric of loosely woven cotton. Masks that tend to run can be applied over a layer of gauze. The gauze holds the mask on the face, while allowing the ingredients to seep through to benefit the skin. Cheesecloth is sometimes used as well. In some cases, it is necessary to apply a second layer of gauze over the mask to keep the ingredients from sliding off. Gauze is also used to keep paraffin and gypsum/plaster masks from sticking to the skin and the tiny hairs on the skin. To prepare gauze, cut a piece large enough to cover the entire face and neck. Cut out spaces for the eyes, nose, and mouth. Although the client could breathe through the gauze, the cut-out spaces will make breathing more comfortable for the client. ### ### FACIAL TREATMENTS A professional facial is one of the most enjoyable and relaxing services available to the salon client. Clients who have experienced this very restful yet stimulating experience do not hesitate to return for more. When clients receive them on a regular basis, the client's skin tone, texture, and appearance are noticeably improved. Facial treatments fall into one of the following categories: - Preservative: Maintains the health of the facial skin by cleansing correctly, increasing circulation, relaxing the nerves, and activating the skin glands and metabolism through massage. - Corrective: Correct certain facial skin conditions, such as dryness, oiliness, comedones, aging lines, and minor conditions of acne. As with other forms of massage, facial treatments help to increase circulation, activate glandular activity, relax the nerves, maintain muscle tone, and strengthen weak muscle tissues. ### GUIDELINES FOR FACIAL TREATMENTS Facial treatments are bound to be successful and to inspire return visits by following these simple guidelines summarized below: - Help the client to relax by speaking in a quiet and professional manner - Explain the benefits of the products and service and answer any questions the client may have - Provide a quiet atmosphere and work quietly and efficiently - Maintain neat, clean conditions in the facial work area, with an orderly arrangement of supplies - Follow systematic procedures - Warm up hands before touching the client's face - Keep nails smooth and short to prevent scratching the client's skin - Always check with Health Canada to determine which electrical machines are approved for use in Canada - Always perform an analysis of the client's skin ### CARRYING OUT A SKIN ANALYSIS After the client is draped and lying on the facial table (also called a facial bed), inspect the skin to determine the following: - Is the skin dry, normal, or oily? - Are there fine lines or creases? - Are comedones or acne present? - Are dilated capillaries visible? - Is skin texture smooth or rough? - Is skin color even? The results of the analysis will determine the products to use for the treatment, what areas of the face need special attention, how much pressure to use when massaging, and what equipment should be used. The aesthetician must always analyze the skin for the following reasons: - To check for contraindications - To ensure the client is treated with suitable products - To identify specific areas for treatment - To check the progress of regular clients - To build a rapport and gain the clients confidence Look at the skin both before and after cleansing, once the aesthetician has confirmed there are no contraindications, continue by cleansing the skin. The cleanser should be water- soluble so that the product does not form a barrier to any oils that may be used. Look at the skin in good lighting and preferably under a magnifying lamp. Look at the skin on both the face and neck and consider each of the following points to help decide the skin type and treatment plan: ### COLOR - Evenness of overall color: pale, dark, olive. - All skin has varying tones of skin tone: ruddy, sallow, clear - Pigmentation: is there a tan, or just in patches (ex. freckles, lentigines, etc.) - pH balance: pH refers to the balance of acid and alkali in the skin. That is, how acidic the skin is. Naturally, the skin is slightly acidic: at around pH 5.5. Unfortunately, many foods and skin treatments have the effect of changing skin pH slightly and putting it out of balance. Soaps in particular are alkaline, and therefore this can increase skin pH above its natural levels. The best foods to eat to keep skin pH at the right level are those that contain alpha hydroxy acids. Foods in this category include apples, blackberries, citrus fruits and tomatoes. - Are there sufficient natural oils? - What is the moisture content? - Is there excessive perspiration? - Without looking, how does the skin texture feel? - How warm is the skin, does it feel cool or clammy? - Does the skin have good elasticity, muscle tone? - Is there excess adipose tissue? - Look at the bone structure. - Are there any skin imperfections? - Are there any skin abnormalities? OTHER FACTORS TO INCLUDE ARE\... - The client's occupation: will that have an effect on the skin? - Does their lifestyle affect their skin? - History of the skin origin - Home care or lack of it! Is the client using the correct products for their skin type? - Medication: some medication such as steroids can have an effect on the skin. ### PROCEDURE FOR CLEANSING **CLEANSING ROUTINE** - Cleanse each eye separately with small circular movements and remove make-up with damp gauze - Cleanse lip area with a figure-eight movement supporting the corner of the mouth, remove with damp gauze - Apply cleanser to the neck and face area - Starting at the neck, use upward strokes on the neck; 6 to the right and 6 to the left - Alternate stroking along the jaw line x 6 - Alternate stroking over the chin using the thumbs x 6 - Stroking under the nose and over the upper lip x 6 - Circular movements from the corner of the mouth over the entire cheek area x 3 - Circular movements at the crease of the nose - Stroking up and down the length of the nose - Eye circles x 6 - Stroking of the forehead - Cross friction over the forehead - Large circular movements over the entire cheek area x 3 - Finish with pressure at the temples - Remove cleanser with damp gauze and repeat the routine ### PROCEDURE FOR TONING Place some toner onto gauze and follow the same sequence as for cleansing. Not all cleansers require the use of toner; however, it does give the skin a fresh feeling after cleansing. Blot the skin dry using a gauze removing any excess toner. ### BASIC FACIAL APPLICATION The procedure lists the basic implements and materials needed to perform the basic facial, but the aesthetician can add other items, such an alternative head covering, if required. There are several types of head coverings on the market. Some are a turban design; others are designed with elastic, like a shower cap or headband. They are generally made of either cloth or paper towels. ### SPECIAL NOTES FOR ACNE-PRONE SKIN Minor problem skin and oily skin should respond well to facial treatments. Unresponsive or severe cases of acne need medical treatment, and clients with such conditions should be referred to a dermatologist. If a client is under medical care, the role of the aesthetician is to work under the advisement of the client's physician, following the physician's instructions for the type and frequency of facial treatments. Aestheticians can help these clients with extraction treatments, assist them in choosing proper home-care products and makeup, and help them to understand how to coordinate medications with a home skin care program. There are numerous topical prescription medications that can make the skin more sensitive and more reactive to skin care products. Always check with the client's dermatologist when performing treatments to clients who are under dermatological care. Because skin with acne contains infectious matter, wear protective gloves and use disposable materials such as cotton cleansing pads when working with clients who have acne. ### SHARPENING PERSONAL SKILLS If a client seems dissatisfied with a facial treatment, the aesthetician should consider the following: - Offensive breath or body odour - Rough, cold hands or ragged nails that may have scratched the client's skin - Allowing cream or other substances to get into the client's eyes, mouth, nostrils, or hairline - Towels that were too hot or too cold - Talking too much - Manipulating the skin roughly or in the wrong direction - Being disorganized and interrupting the facial to get supplies ### CONSULTATION AND HOME CARE Home care is probably the most important factor in a successful skin care program. The key word here is program. The clients' participation is essential to achieve results. A program consists of a long-range plan involving home care, salon treatments, and client education. Every new client should receive a thorough consultation regarding proper home care for his or her skin conditions. After the first treatment, block out about thirty minutes to explain proper home care for the client. After the treatment is finished, have the client sit up in the facial chair, or invite the client to move to a well-lit consultation area. A mirror should be provided for the client so that he or she can see their conditions being discussed. Explain, in simple terms, the client's skin conditions, informing the them of the proposed treatment plan. Inform the client about how often treatments should be administered in the salon, and very specifically explain what they should be doing at home. Organize the products the client should purchase and use. Explain the use of each one at a time, in the order of use. Make sure to have written instructions for the client to take home. It is very important to provide clients with products that produce results. Retailing products for clients to use at home is very important for success in the treatment of skin conditions and success in an aesthetic business. EQUIPMENT ========= It is advisable to use an aesthetic bed for both client and aesthetician comfort. It is wise to get a bed that can be height adjusted to reduce potential back injuries. It will be necessary to either use bed roll, a clean covering sheet or at least thoroughly clean the bed with an anti-bacterial cleaning product between each client. The following are required in order to carry out facial treatments and they must be laid out neatly on a clean trolley: - A full range of facial products: cleansers, toners, moisturizers, massage mediums, masks, and eye creams/gels - Headband to protect the client's hair - A cleansing brush may be used, and a mask brush will be needed to apply the mask - Hot towels if required - Sponges or gauze will be needed to remove products from the skin - A good supply of clean towels will be needed - Dermaplaning Blades -- Swann Morton brand recommended Optional items: - Infrared lamp - Other electrical equipment Specialty or intensive care products ### ### SAFE HANDLING OF SWANN-MORTON PRODUCTS The way in which a surgical blade is handled prior to use can determine how effectively it performs. There are a number of ways that the cutting edge of a blade can become damaged once removed from its protective foil packet: - When removing a blade from the protective packet make sure it is not dropped into a metal bowl or container as this can reduce the initial keenness of the cutting edge even before it is fitted to the handle. - When using forceps or needle holders to remove the blade from its protective packet, do not grip the blade across the cutting edge. Use the following procedure to attach a surgical blade: 1. Open the seal halfway and grip the blade over the seal with your hand, avoiding contact with the cutting edge 2. Hold handle in left hand with the bayonet facing upwards 3. Place blade partway over handle fitting and engage slots 4. Slide blade until it clicks into position 5. To improve assembly, flex blade slightly upwards when sliding onto the handle Use the following procedure to detach a surgical blade: 1. Place the blade in the original packaging making sure that the cutting edge is facing away from hand and body 2. Ensure the blade is pointing downwards and towards the trolley and NOT towards anyone 3. While holding the handle firmly lift the back edge of the blade with finger or nail and slide away the handle 4. The preferred method would be a Swann-Morton blade remover device: insert the blade and pull it up and back, locking the blade into the device until it falls of the handle  ### HOW SHOUD I DISPOSE OF USED NEEDLES OR SHARPS? Use a sharps bin to dispose of used needles or sharps. A sharps bin is a specially designed box with a lid that can be purchased from a pharmacy. When full, the box may be collected for disposal by local council, governing authority or pharmacy. **USING YOUR SHARPS BIN** You can use a sharps bin to dispose of medical supplies such as: - Needles - Syringes - Lancets used with finger-pricking devices - Clippers - Blades Put needles or similar medical supplies into the sharps bin immediately after using them and do not try to re-cap or take them out again. Only fill the bin to where it says, \"Do not fill above this line\". Keep the sharps bin in a safe place so it is not a risk to other people and is out of the sight and reach of children. Do not put used needles or other sharps in: - Any type of household bin (example, a general rubbish bin or a recycling bin) - A container that is no longer needed, such as a drink can or bottle Needles can cause injuries. Used needles can carry blood-borne viruses that may be passed on to other people. Viruses that can be passed on through contact with needles include: - HIV - hepatitis B - hepatitis C ### WHAT SHOULD I DO IF I INJURE MYSELF WITH A USED NEEDLE OR BLADE? If you pierce or puncture your skin with a used needle/blade, follow this first aid advice immediately: - Encourage the wound to bleed, ideally by holding it under running water - Wash the wound using running water and plenty of soap - Do not scrub the wound while you\'re washing it - Do not suck the wound - Dry the wound and cover it with a waterproof plaster or dressing You should also seek urgent medical advice as you may need treatment to reduce the risk of getting an infection: - Contact your employer\'s Occ Health service if you injure yourself at work - Otherwise call your doctor or go to the nearest accident and emergency department - Having thorough medical history and consent forms filled out by clients is important in these emergencies PREPARATION =========== The treatment time varies depending on the individual client. It is important to wear disposable gloves (latex or vinyl) when carrying out the treatment because the removed hairs may have bodily fluid on them and you may be working with chemicals. ### CLIENT PREPARATION Follow basic sanitation procedures: - Fill out client consent and medical history forms and discuss treatment - Complete client consultation sheet - Have client remove contact lenses - Place client in a partially reclining position in the facial bed - Position client comfortably - Take a before photograph - Protect client's hair with a headband and drape a towel over the client's upper body to protect clothing - Sanitize hands ### ### TROLLY SET UP - Cleanser, toner, serum, moisturizer - Sheet mask - LED light Therapy (if needed) - Gauze - 70% alcohol - SPF 15-30 - PH Balancing Sterile Blades (10R) - Scalpel Handle - Steam Towels - **Blade remover device** The Dermaplaning device is very simple to use and set up! Listed are a variety of disposal blade options: - Mini Contour Blade - \#10 Dermaplaning Blade - \#11 Extraction Lancet (For Acne Extractions) - \#14 Round Dermaplaning Blade - \#22 Dermaplaning Blade (Advanced) We recommend using a No. 10 blade for all your services. You do not need to choose different blades based upon desired results or facial areas. Prepare scalpel by putting a No. 10 blade in the handle. Have extra blades ready in case your current blade dulls. Always attach a new blade to the Dermaplaning handle as outlined: **Step 1 -** Select the appropriate blade **Step 2 -** Line the blade up with the handle **Step 3 Part 1 -** The angle of the blade and the handle must be the same **Step 3 Part 2 -** The blade must be aligned with the handle groves **Step 4 -** While holding the back of then blade, carefully push down to attach the blade to the handle. To change the blade, firmly hold the handle and insert the blade into the removing device **Step 5 -** Always dispose of the blade into a Sharps Container DERMAPLANING PROCEDURE ====================== **STEP 1 -- DOUBLE CLEANSE** 1. Begin by steaming the clients face (optional) while performing a double medical cleanse with gloved hands. Gloves should always be worn during the entire dermaplaning procedure. 2. Medical cleanses are performed using rough gauze and a gel cleanser with keratolytic properties such as AHA\'s or BHA\'S. AHA\'s are beneficial for aging skin, while BHA\'s will benefit oily or acneic types. Buff the skin back and forth during the cleanse to loosen dead skin. Remove using a steamed barber wrap and repeat, turn off steam (optional). 3. Degrease the skin using an aha/bha skin prep solution, medical grade acetone, or alcohol and ensure client\'s skin is completely dry. Any moisture on the skin increases your chance of nicking your client. 4. Perform a skin analysis before starting treatment, note any raised areas to avoid, such as moles, pustules, or skin tags. Do not dermaplane over these areas. **THE FACE SHOULD BE DRY BEFORE PROCEEDING** **STEP 2 -- DERMAPLANING PROCEDURE** It is important to hold the blade at a 45-degree angle and blade the skin with precise movements in the opposite direction of skin growth. Practice using the blade on your arm or thigh. Notice the difference in effectiveness of the treatment based upon the angle of your blade. It is important to develop a pattern to use on your client. Once established, use this pattern on each client for every service. Some practitioners prefer to do one side of the face and then the other. This can save time from having to turn the client\'s head back and forth. ### RECOMMENDED PATTERN Begin each area by stretching the skin outward between your thumb and pointer finger. Work in small sections of approximately two inches on longer, flatter areas, and a half inch on smaller, pointier areas such as the chin and nose. Dermaplane each section using a back and forth motion 4 times for sensitive skin, 6 times on normal skin, and 8 times for thicker, coarser skin. You will notice it takes approximately three strokes per area to remove the surface vellus, the final strokes will remove the keratinized surface cells from the epidermis. Your clinical end point should be mild erythema. Moderate erythema may indicate too much pressure or excessive strokes. Place a 4x4 piece of gauze next to your client\'s head to remove debris off of the blade as you\'re working. The blade edge should be facing you as you work and strokes should be bladed toward your body. Move your body around the client to ensure you have optimal direction and control. 1. Begin in the center of the forehead near from the eyebrow to the hairline and continue to left temple. Stroked areas should overlap at around 20%. 2. Continue the same method from center of forehead to right temple. 3. Have your client turn their face to their right and dermaplane along the apex (highest point) of cheekbone starting at temple and working your way to the nose. 4. Have your client turn their face to the left and dermaplane along the apex (highest point) of cheekbone starting at temple and working your way to the nose. 5. Have your client turn their face to the right and dermaplane crow\'s feet and under eye area towards nose. Stretching areas outside the orbital bone. 6. Have your client turn their face to the left and dermaplane crow\'s feet and under eye area towards nose. Stretching areas outside the orbital bone. 7. Have your client turn to their right and dermaplane left cheek above jaw to cheekbone, beginning at ear and ending at corner of mouth. Have client stick their tongue inside cheek and press outward, raising the hollow area between jaw and cheekbone. 8. Have your client turn to their left and dermaplane right cheek above jaw to cheekbone, beginning at ear and ending at corner of mouth. Have client stick their tongue inside cheek and press outward, raising the hollow area between jaw and cheekbone. 9. Have your client open their mouth in an \"Ahhh\" position and have them tuck their lips in around their teeth. Work the corner of the left side of the mouth and then the right side. 10. Have your client close their mouth and tuck their lips in around your teeth, hiding their lips. Tilt their head up to stretch the chin and neck area and dermaplane chin from tip to top of lower lip. 11. Keeping the same position, hold the tip of the nose upwards and dermaplane from under the nose downwards to top of lip. Dermaplane downward along left side of lip, and then downward along right side of lip. 12. Keeping the same position, gently dermaplane along the upper vermillion border of the lip, from the center outward on the left, and the center outward on the right. Complete the same steps on the vermillion border of the lower lip. 13. The nose in an optional area, but a doable one. Move tip of nose to the right and dermaplane the left side starting at the nostril and working your way to the center. Repeat on opposite side. Pinch center of nose in between your fingers and dermaplane from top to tip. 14. To dermaplane the jawline. Stretch the clients skin up and over the bone to give you a flat surface to work on. Work from ear to chin and repeat on opposite side. 15. Tilt chin up and have your client turn to the right. Dermaplane neck beginning on side of lower neck to under the ear. Work your way to the center. Repeat on opposite side. 16. Check your work under a mag light to ensure completion. 17. Use a cool barber wrap to soothe skin and remove remaining debris.  **STEP 3 -- TONER** Once the Dermaplaning procedure is completed, massage a toner into all areas of the face. This is performed to remove any loose skin cells and hair that has been left over from the Dermaplaning treatment. TIP: Use a medical grade toner to enhance the skin and really give the client that WOW factor! There are TONS of amazing products, on the market and studying some ingredients are a great way to educate the clientele and keep them coming back, especially when the aesthetician proves to be knowledgeable and customizes products to suit their needs. **STEP 4 -- APPLY MASK** Apply a mask to the face based on skin type and desired result. Let sit for recommended time, normally 10 minutes. **STEP 5 -- APPLY RICH MOISTURISER AND FACIAL MASSAGE** This procedure is completed with a rich moisturizer or serum and facial massage. Use circular movements to ensure that moisturizer is penetrated into all areas of the face. This massage is highly effectively directly after the Dermaplaning procedure, since there are no dead skin cells to prevent penetration. The use of rich moisturizer and serums are essential in this stage of the procedure, as these two topical products together is what achieves that radiant glow- one of the main benefits of Dermaplaning. This stage of the Dermaplaning procedure is also known for delaying skin aging and boosting collagen production. TIP: Again, a high end and credible brand is always key! Shea butter and Vitamin E are excellent ingredients because of their anti-aging, moisturizing and collagen production properties. **STEP 6 - SPF** Blot the skin dry and apply a suitable SPF. This will give the skin protection. Apply with effleurage movements up and over the face. Blot the skin if there is any excess cream in order to remove any shine. Remove the headband if used and slowly sit the client up. Leave them to sit for a few minutes and offer them a glass of water. The client may then get dressed, sit down with client, and give them aftercare advice. ALPHA HYDROXY ACID PEELS ======================== Glycolic acid is the most commonly used alpha hydroxyl acid because of its small molecular size, which gives it greater ability to penetrate the epidermis. Because of the drop in the skin, they are not as significant as deeper peeling agents and clients do not typically peel or sheet from the treatment. Glycolic peels are great for clients concerned with aging and work best in a series of 3 to 6 peels delivered monthly at four week intervals. Glycolic Acids range in percentage or 30%-70% and with a pH of 2.0 to 3.5. Lactic Acid has a larger molecule and is easily controlled. Lactic Acid is great for those with sensitive skin and can be used on rosacea. Malic, Citric, and Tartaric are generally not used in peel form but are frequently found in skin care products. AHA\'s are best used for Fitzpatrick Skin Types 1-4. ### INDICATIONS - Grade 1 and 2 acne - Improvement of skin texture - Lightens surface pigmentation and superficial keratosis - Stimulates collagen production Clients can typically expect some itching or tingling during the treatment and mild flaking around the nose. BETA HYDROXY ACID PEELS ======================= While AHA\'s come in a family of five different acids, BHA\'s only have one acid in its family which is Salicylic Acid. Salicylic acid is derived from white willow bark. Clients who have an allergy to aspirin may not use salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is most commonly used for acne, large pores, and oily skin. Salicylic acid ranges in percentage of 20%-50% with a pH of less than 3. BHA\'S are safe for all Fitz types as they don\'t drop deep in the skin. They are lipid soluble with anti-inflammatory properties which is why it\'s a great choice for oily, acneic skin. ### INDICATIONS - Treatment of acne - Breakdown of comedones Improves texture - Lightens surface pigmentation - Clients can typically expect some burning or tingling during the treatment and mild sensitivity and dryness for a few days\' post peel. - Salicylic peels are self-neutralizing and do not need to be removed. DERMAPLANING WITH AN AHA PEEL PROCEDURE ======================================= **STEP 1 -- DOUBLE CLEANSE** 1. Begin by steaming the clients face (optional) while performing a double medical cleanse with gloved hands. Gloves should always be worn during the entire dermaplaning procedure. 2. Medical cleanses are performed using rough gauze and a gel cleanser with keratolytic properties such as AHA\'s or BHA\'S. AHA\'s are beneficial for aging skin, while BHA\'s will benefit oily or acneic types. Buff the skin back and forth during the cleanse to loosen dead skin. Remove using a steamed barber wrap and repeat, turn off steam (optional). 3. Degrease the skin using an aha/bha skin prep solution, medical grade acetone, or alcohol and ensure client\'s skin is completely dry. Any moisture on the skin increases your chance of nicking your client. 4. Perform a skin analysis before starting treatment, note any raised areas to avoid, such as moles, pustules, or skin tags. Do not dermaplane over these areas. **THE FACE SHOULD BE DRY BEFORE PROCEEDING** **STEP 2 -- DERMAPLANING PROCEDURE** It is important to hold the blade at a 45-degree angle and blade the skin with precise movements in the opposite direction of skin growth. Practice using the blade on your arm or thigh. Notice the difference in effectiveness of the treatment based upon the angle of your blade. It is important to develop a pattern to use on your client. Once established, use this pattern on each client for every service. Some practitioners prefer to do one side of the face and then the other. This can save time from having to turn the client\'s head back and forth. ### RECOMMENDED PATTERN Begin each area by stretching the skin outward between your thumb and pointer finger. Work in small sections of approximately two inches on longer, flatter areas, and a half inch on smaller, pointier areas such as the chin and nose. Dermaplane each section using a back and forth motion 4 times for sensitive skin, 6 times on normal skin, and 8 times for thicker, coarser skin. You will notice it takes approximately three strokes per area to remove the surface vellus, the final strokes will remove the keratinized surface cells from the epidermis. Your clinical end point should be mild erythema. Moderate erythema may indicate too much pressure or excessive strokes. Place a 4x4 piece of gauze next to your client\'s head to remove debris off of the blade as you\'re working. The blade edge should be facing you as you work and strokes should be bladed toward your body. Move your body around the client to ensure you have optimal direction and control. 1. Begin in the center of the forehead near from the eyebrow to the hairline and continue to left temple. Stroked areas should overlap at around 20%. 2. Continue the same method from center of forehead to right temple. 3. Have your client turn their face to their right and dermaplane along the apex (highest point) of cheekbone starting at temple and working your way to the nose. 4. Have your client turn their face to the left and dermaplane along the apex (highest point) of cheekbone starting at temple and working your way to the nose. 5. Have your client turn their face to the right and dermaplane crow\'s feet and under eye area towards nose. Stretching areas outside the orbital bone. 6. Have your client turn their face to the left and dermaplane crow\'s feet and under eye area towards nose. Stretching areas outside the orbital bone. 7. Have your client turn to their right and dermaplane left cheek above jaw to cheekbone, beginning at ear and ending at corner of mouth. Have client stick their tongue inside cheek and press outward, raising the hollow area between jaw and cheekbone. 8. Have your client turn to their left and dermaplane right cheek above jaw to cheekbone, beginning at ear and ending at corner of mouth. Have client stick their tongue inside cheek and press outward, raising the hollow area between jaw and cheekbone. 9. Have your client open their mouth in an \"Ahhh\" position and have them tuck their lips in around their teeth. Work the corner of the left side of the mouth and then the right side. 10. Have your client close their mouth and tuck their lips in around your teeth, hiding their lips. Tilt their head up to stretch the chin and neck area and dermaplane chin from tip to top of lower lip. 11. Keeping the same position, hold the tip of the nose upwards and dermaplane from under the nose downwards to top of lip. Dermaplane downward along left side of lip, and then downward along right side of lip. 12. Keeping the same position, gently dermaplane along the upper vermillion border of the lip, from the center outward on the left, and the center outward on the right. Complete the same steps on the vermillion border of the lower lip. 13. The nose in an optional area, but a doable one. Move tip of nose to the right and dermaplane the left side starting at the nostril and working your way to the center. Repeat on opposite side. Pinch center of nose in between your fingers and dermaplane from top to tip. 14. To dermaplane the jawline. Stretch the clients skin up and over the bone to give you a flat surface to work on. Work from ear to chin and repeat on opposite side. 15. Tilt chin up and have your client turn to the right. Dermaplane neck beginning on side of lower neck to under the ear. Work your way to the center. Repeat on opposite side. 16. Check your work under a mag light to ensure completion. **STEP 3 -- AHA PEEL** 1. Use a cool barber wrap to soothe skin and remove remaining debris. Prep skin by using an occluding agent around corners of the eyes, nasal folds, and lips. 2. Apply eye protection to client. 3. Set timer for the manufacturer\'s recommended time (normally 1-10 minutes). 4. Apply the peel using a 2x2 gauze or glycolic applicator beginning at outer perimeter and working your way to the center of the face. 5. Massage the peel to ease any itching or tingling sensation. 6. Ask the client if they are experiencing any discomfort on a scale of 1 to 10. 1 being mild to none and 10 being intense discomfort. If patient reaches a discomfort level higher than 8, neutralize immediately. 7. Once the peel has set for the recommended time, apply neutralizer using a 2x2 gauze pad. 8. Use cool barber wraps on the face until all tingling has subsided. **STEP 4 -- TONER** Once the Dermaplaning procedure is completed, massage a toner into all areas of the face. This is performed to remove any loose skin cells and hair that has been left over from the Dermaplaning treatment. TIP: Use a medical grade toner to enhance the skin and really give the client that WOW factor! There are TONS of amazing products, on the market and studying some ingredients are a great way to educate the clientele and keep them coming back, especially when the aesthetician proves to be knowledgeable and customizes products to suit their needs. **STEP 5 -- APPLY MASK** Apply a mask to the face based on skin type and desired result. Let sit for recommended time, normally 10 minutes. **STEP 6 -- APPLY RICH MOISTURISER AND FACIAL MASSAGE** This procedure is completed with a rich moisturizer or serum and facial massage. Use circular movements to ensure that moisturizer is penetrated into all areas of the face. This massage is highly effectively directly after the Dermaplaning procedure, since there are no dead skin cells to prevent penetration. The use of rich moisturizer and serums are essential in this stage of the procedure, as these two topical products together is what achieves that radiant glow- one of the main benefits of Dermaplaning. This stage of the Dermaplaning procedure is also known for delaying skin aging and boosting collagen production. TIP: Again, a high end and credible brand is always key! Shea butter and Vitamin E are excellent ingredients because of their anti-aging, moisturizing and collagen production properties. **STEP 7 - SPF** Blot the skin dry and apply a suitable SPF. This will give the skin protection. Apply with effleurage movements up and over the face. Blot the skin if there is any excess cream in order to remove any shine. Remove the headband if used and slowly sit the client up. Leave them to sit for a few minutes and offer them a glass of water. The client may then get dressed, sit down with client, and give them aftercare advice. DERMAPLANING WITH A BHA PEEL PROCEDURE ====================================== **STEP 1 -- DOUBLE CLEANSE** 1. Begin by steaming the clients face (optional) while performing a double medical cleanse with gloved hands. Gloves should always be worn during the entire dermaplaning procedure. 2. Medical cleanses are performed using rough gauze and a gel cleanser with keratolytic properties such as AHA\'s or BHA\'S. AHA\'s are beneficial for aging skin, while BHA\'s will benefit oily or acneic types. Buff the skin back and forth during the cleanse to loosen dead skin. Remove using a steamed barber wrap and repeat, turn off steam (optional). 3. Degrease the skin using an aha/bha skin prep solution, medical grade acetone, or alcohol and ensure client\'s skin is completely dry. Any moisture on the skin increases your chance of nicking your client. 4. Perform a skin analysis before starting treatment, note any raised areas to avoid, such as moles, pustules, or skin tags. Do not dermaplane over these areas. **THE FACE SHOULD BE DRY BEFORE PROCEEDING** **STEP 2 -- DERMAPLANING PROCEDURE** It is important to hold the blade at a 45-degree angle and blade the skin with precise movements in the opposite direction of skin growth. Practice using the blade on your arm or thigh. Notice the difference in effectiveness of the treatment based upon the angle of your blade. It is important to develop a pattern to use on your client. Once established, use this pattern on each client for every service. Some practitioners prefer to do one side of the face and then the other. This can save time from having to turn the client\'s head back and forth. ### RECOMMENDED PATTERN Begin each area by stretching the skin outward between your thumb and pointer finger. Work in small sections of approximately two inches on longer, flatter areas, and a half inch on smaller, pointier areas such as the chin and nose. Dermaplane each section using a back and forth motion 4 times for sensitive skin, 6 times on normal skin, and 8 times for thicker, coarser skin. You will notice it takes approximately three strokes per area to remove the surface vellus, the final strokes will remove the keratinized surface cells from the epidermis. Your clinical end point should be mild erythema. Moderate erythema may indicate too much pressure or excessive strokes. Place a 4x4 piece of gauze next to your client\'s head to remove debris off of the blade as you\'re working. The blade edge should be facing you as you work and strokes should be bladed toward your body. Move your body around the client to ensure you have optimal direction and control. 1. Begin in the center of the forehead near from the eyebrow to the hairline and continue to left temple. Stroked areas should overlap at around 20%. 2. Continue the same method from center of forehead to right temple. 3. Have your client turn their face to their right and dermaplane along the apex (highest point) of cheekbone starting at temple and working your way to the nose. 4. Have your client turn their face to the left and dermaplane along the apex (highest point) of cheekbone starting at temple and working your way to the nose. 5. Have your client turn their face to the right and dermaplane crow\'s feet and under eye area towards nose. Stretching areas outside the orbital bone. 6. Have your client turn their face to the left and dermaplane crow\'s feet and under eye area towards nose. Stretching areas outside the orbital bone. 7. Have your client turn to their right and dermaplane left cheek above jaw to cheekbone, beginning at ear and ending at corner of mouth. Have client stick their tongue inside cheek and press outward, raising the hollow area between jaw and cheekbone. 8. Have your client turn to their left and dermaplane right cheek above jaw to cheekbone, beginning at ear and ending at corner of mouth. Have client stick their tongue inside cheek and press outward, raising the hollow area between jaw and cheekbone. 9. Have your client open their mouth in an \"Ahhh\" position and have them tuck their lips in around their teeth. Work the corner of the left side of the mouth and then the right side. 10. Have your client close their mouth and tuck their lips in around your teeth, hiding their lips. Tilt their head up to stretch the chin and neck area and dermaplane chin from tip to top of lower lip. 11. Keeping the same position, hold the tip of the nose upwards and dermaplane from under the nose downwards to top of lip. Dermaplane downward along left side of lip, and then downward along right side of lip. 12. Keeping the same position, gently dermaplane along the upper vermillion border of the lip, from the center outward on the left, and the center outward on the right. Complete the same steps on the vermillion border of the lower lip. 13. The nose in an optional area, but a doable one. Move tip of nose to the right and dermaplane the left side starting at the nostril and working your way to the center. Repeat on opposite side. Pinch center of nose in between your fingers and dermaplane from top to tip. 14. To dermaplane the jawline. Stretch the clients skin up and over the bone to give you a flat surface to work on. Work from ear to chin and repeat on opposite side. 15. Tilt chin up and have your client turn to the right. Dermaplane neck beginning on side of lower neck to under the ear. Work your way to the center. Repeat on opposite side. 16. Check your work under a mag light to ensure completion. **STEP 3 -- BHA PEEL** 1. Use a cool barber wrap to soothe skin and remove remaining debris. 2. Prep skin by using an occluding agent around corners of the eyes, nasal folds, and lips. 3. Apply eye protection to client. 4. Apply the peel using a 2x2 gauze or glycolic applicator beginning at outer perimeter and working your way to the center of the face. 5. Do not massage, but fan the client if needed. 6. Ask the client if they are experiencing any discomfort on a scale of 1 to 10. 1 being mild and 10 being intense discomfort. If patient reaches a discomfort level higher than 8, remove the peel with cold water immediately 7. Wait until all activity has subsided before continuing with finishing products. There is no need to neutralize. **STEP 4 -- TONER** Once the Dermaplaning procedure is completed, massage a toner into all areas of the face. This is performed to remove any loose skin cells and hair that has been left over from the Dermaplaning treatment. TIP: Use a medical grade toner to enhance the skin and really give the client that WOW factor! There are TONS of amazing products, on the market and studying some ingredients are a great way to educate the clientele and keep them coming back, especially when the aesthetician proves to be knowledgeable and customizes products to suit their needs. **STEP 5 -- APPLY MASK** Apply a mask to the face based on skin type and desired result. Let sit for recommended time, normally 10 minutes. **STEP 6 -- APPLY RICH MOISTURISER AND FACIAL MASSAGE** This procedure is completed with a rich moisturizer or serum and facial massage. Use circular movements to ensure that moisturizer is penetrated into all areas of the face. This massage is highly effectively directly after the Dermaplaning procedure, since there are no dead skin cells to prevent penetration. The use of rich moisturizer and serums are essential in this stage of the procedure, as these two topical products together is what achieves that radiant glow- one of the main benefits of Dermaplaning. This stage of the Dermaplaning procedure is also known for delaying skin aging and boosting collagen production. TIP: Again, a high end and credible brand is always key! Shea butter and Vitamin E are excellent ingredients because of their anti-aging, moisturizing and collagen production properties. **STEP 7 - SPF** Blot the skin dry and apply a suitable SPF. This will give the skin protection. Apply with effleurage movements up and over the face. Blot the skin if there is any excess cream in order to remove any shine. Remove the headband if used and slowly sit the client up. Leave them to sit for a few minutes and offer them a glass of water. The client may then get dressed, sit down with client, and give them aftercare advice.  AFTER CARE ========== It is very important to give the client clear instructions about what to expect and what to do at home in order to get the best from their treatments. This will help prolong the effects of the treatment. It is essential to emphasize the importance of aftercare; clients must be provided with clear written aftercare instructions to prevent adverse reactions and know how to deal with them. They must also have an appreciation of the importance of regular services and be given the opportunity to purchase skin care products. Explain to the client the following points: - Use the correct products for their skin type - Cleanse, tone and moisturize daily - Exfoliate weekly - Avoid using harsh soaps and products on the skin - Always use a good sunscreen - If a reaction occurs and does not clear up in 24 hours, then please consult GP - If their skin is prone to spots blemishes, a few additional spots may be noticed - Avoid make up for 24 hours - Advise the client about further treatments that may benefit them - Advise the client to have regular facials to maximize benefits, taking into consideration financial constraints and time -- recommend the following- - Treatment for specific problems once a week for six weeks - up to age 25, once a season - age 25+ once a month And finally ask the clients for feedback on the treatment; fill in their record card on any findings and ask when they would like to rebook. In the unlikely event that the client is unhappy with their treatment, find out why and tr