Satin & Sateen Weaves Derivatives PDF

Summary

This document provides a comprehensive overview of satin and sateen weave derivatives, highlighting stripe and check effects. It includes practical examples, demonstrating how to calculate the appropriate threads, ends, and picks required for fabric design.

Full Transcript

# Derivatives of Satin & Sateen ## Satin & Sateen Derivatives A number of weaves can be derived from satin and sateen weaves. Most common ones are: 1. Satin & Sateen Stripe 2. Satin & Sateen Check 3. Rearranged Twills ## Satin & Sateen Stripe Effect ### (1) Satin & Sateen Stripes - Satin and...

# Derivatives of Satin & Sateen ## Satin & Sateen Derivatives A number of weaves can be derived from satin and sateen weaves. Most common ones are: 1. Satin & Sateen Stripe 2. Satin & Sateen Check 3. Rearranged Twills ## Satin & Sateen Stripe Effect ### (1) Satin & Sateen Stripes - Satin and sateen weaves can be combined together to form stripe effects. - Stripe effects formed in this manner can be of two types: - (i) Vertical Stripes - (ii) Horizontal Stripes ### (i) Satin & Sateen Vertical Stripes - Since Satin & Sateen weaves are opposite to one another so combining them side by side will result in the formation of vertical stripes. - *A diagram shows two boxes side by side, one labelled Satin and the other labelled Sateen.* - If warp and weft are of different colours then vertical stripes in two colours will be formed. - If warp are red and weft are white. By combining sateen and satin weaves together side by side, following vertical stripe effect will be formed: - A diagram shows a woven fabric with alternating red and white vertical stripes. - The thickness of vertical stripes formed in the fabric will depend upon: 1. Warp Thread Density (Ends Per Inch) 2. Number of Ends on which Satin & Sateen weaves are combined. - For example, if warp thread density of a fabric is 60 and vertical stripes of one inch thickness is required then in this case sateen on 60 ends should be combined with satin on 60 ends. ### (ii) Satin & Sateen Horizontal Stripes - Similarly horizontal stripes are formed by combining satin and sateen weaves in the following order: - *A diagram shows a box divided into two, with the top labelled Sateen and the bottom labelled Satin.* - If warp & weft are of different colours then horizontal stripes in two colours will be formed. - Taking red warp and white weft, following horizontal stripe effect will be formed by combining satin and sateen under and above each other. - A diagram shows a woven fabric with alternating red and white horizontal stripes. - The thickness of horizontal stripes formed in the fabric will depend upon: 1. Weft Thread Density (Picks Per Inch) 2. Number of Picks on which Satin & Sateen weaves are combined. - For example, if weft thread density of a fabric is 48 and horizontal stripes of one inch thickness is required then in this case sateen on 48 picks should be combined with satin on 48 picks. ## Examples of Satin & Sateen Stripes ### Example 1 Construct a satin and sateen vertical stripe effect using 10 thread regular sateen with a move number of 3. Solution - Since vertical stripes are produced by combining satin and sateen side by side, so ends and picks required are: - Ends = 10 x 2 = 20 - Picks = 10 *** - *A diagram shows a schematic representation of a woven fabric with a vertical red stripe on the left and a white stripe on the right.* *** ### Example 2 Create alternate red and white vertical stripes of 1/2 inch thickness each by using 10 thread satin & sateen with a move number of 3. There are 60 ends and 48 picks in one inch of the fabric. Solution - Warp → Red - Weft → White - Ends per inch = 60 - Red Stripe = 0.5 inch - White Stripe = 0.5 inch - Ends = Ends of Satin + Ends of Sateen = 60 x 0.5 + 60 x 0.5 = 60 - Picks = Threads of Satin & Sateen = 10 *** - *A diagram shows a schematic representation of a woven fabric with alternating red and white vertical stripes. The width of the fabric is divided into two sections, both labelled with "3 repeats 30 ends".* *** ### Example 3 Create alternate red and white horizontal stripe using 8 thread satin and sateen with a move number of 3. The ends and picks per inch are 72 and 64 respectively. The thickness of red stripe required is 1 inch and that of white is 1/2 inch. Solution - Warp → Red - Weft → White - Picks/" = 64 - Red Stripe = 1" - White Stripe = 0.5 “ - Picks = Picks of satin + Picks of sateen = 64 x 1 + 64 x 0.5 = 96 - Threads of Satin & Sateen = 8 (As 64 & 32 is divisible by 8) - Ends = Threads of Satin & Sateen = 8 *** - *A diagram shows a schematic representation of a woven fabric with alternating red and white horizontal stripes. The height of the fabric is divided into two sections, the top labelled with "8 repeats 64 picks" and the bottom labelled with "4 repeats 32 picks".* *** ### Example 4 Create alternate green and white horizontal stripe using 7 thread satin and sateen with a move number of 3. The ends and picks per inch are 72 and 56 respectively. The thickness of green stripe required is 0.25 inch and that of white stripe is 0.5 inch. Solution - Green Stripe = 0.25 ” - Warp → Green - Weft → White - Green Stripe = 0.25" - Picks/" = 56 - White Stripe = 0.5” - Picks = Picks of satin + picks of sateen = 56 x 0.25 + 56 x 0.5 = 42 - Threads of Satin & Sateen = 7 (As 14 & 28 is divisible by 7) - Ends = Threads of Satin & Sateen *** - *A diagram shows a schematic representation of a woven fabric with alternating green and white horizontal stripes. The height of the fabric is divided into two sections, the top labelled with "2 repeats 14 picks" and the bottom labelled with "4 repeats 28 picks".* ## Satin & Sateen Check Effect ### (2) Satin & Sateen Check - By combining satin and sateen weaves in the following manner, check effect can be produced. - *A diagram shows a box divided into four, with each quarter labelled Satin or Sateen in an alternating pattern.* - If warp threads are red coloured and weft threads are white coloured then combining satin & sateen weaves diagonally will give following check effect. - A diagram shows a woven fabric with a red and white checkered pattern. - The size of check or squares formed in the fabric will depend upon: 1. Ends per Inch & Picks Per Inch 2. Number of Ends and Picks on which Satin & Sateen weaves are combined. - For example, if weft thread density of a fabric is 48 and warp thread density is 60 then order to get checks of 1 square inch size, satin and sateen should be formed on 60 ends and 48 picks. ## Examples of Satin & Sateen Checks ### Example 1 Construct a satin and sateen check effect using 12 thread regular sateen with a move number of 5. Solution - Threads of Satin & Sateen = 12 - Ends = Threads of Satin + Threads of Sateen = 12 + 12 = 24 - Picks = Threads of Satin + Threads of Sateen = 12 + 12 = 24 *** - *A diagram shows a schematic representation of a woven fabric, with a checkered pattern formed by alternating red and white squares.* *** ### Example 2 Construct a satin & sateen check effect using 8 thread regular satin & sateen with a move number of 3. The size of the check required is 0.5″ x 0.5”. The fabric has 64 ends per inch and 48 picks per inch. Solution - Threads of Satin & Sateen = 8 - Ends per inch = 64 - Ends = 64 x 0.5 + 64 x 0.5 = 64 - Picks = 48 x 0.5 + 48 x 0.5 = 48 - Picks per inch = 48 *** - *A diagram shows a schematic representation of a woven fabric with a checkered pattern, with the caption "64 x 48 Threads".* *** ### Example 3 Construct following satin & sateen check effect: - *A diagram shows a square divided into four smaller squares. The entire square is 0.5" x 0.5", each smaller square is 0.25" x 0.25".* The fabric has 60 ends and picks per inch. Solution - Ends per inch = 60 - Picks per inch = 60 - Ends = 60 x 0.5 + 60 x 0.5 = 60 - Picks = 60 x 0.5 + 60 x 0.25 = 45 - Threads of Satin & Sateen = 15 (As 60 & 45 is divisible by 15) *** - *A diagram shows a schematic representation of a woven fabric with a checkered pattern. The caption is "60 x 45 Threads".* *** ## Rearranged Twills ### (3) Rearranged Twills - Rearranged twills are constructed based on sateen weaves - To construct rearranged twills, a particular sateen is filled. Then from each filled mark of the sateen weave a particular twill order is filled. - The number of threads required to complete the rearranged twills is equal to the threads of sateen - The threads of the sateen should either be equal to the threads of the twill or should be divisible by the threads of twill ## Construction of Rearranged Twills ### Example 1 Construct 4/4 twill based on 8 threads regular sateen with a move number of 3. Solution - First of all 8 thread sateen with a move number of 3 is constructed. - *A diagram shows a schematic representation of a woven fabric, with a checkered pattern formed by alternating red and white squares.* - Then starting from the filling of sateen in each column 4/4 twill is filled. - *A diagram shows a schematic representation of a woven fabric, with a checkered pattern formed by alternating red and white squares.* - An interesting point to note is that this rearranged twill is actually based on a regular 4/4 twill whose threads have been rearranged as shown below: - *A diagram shows a schematic representation of a woven fabric, with a checkered pattern formed by alternating red and white squares. The diagram is labelled with numbers 1-8 and arrows showing how threads are rearranged.* ### Example 2 Construct a 4.2/2.4 rearranged twill based on 12 threads sateen with a move number of 5. Solution - *A diagram shows a schematic representation of a woven fabric with a checkered pattern formed by alternating red and white squares.* ### Example 3 Construct a 5/8 rearranged twill based on 13 threads sateen with a move number of 4. Solution - *A diagram shows a schematic representation of a woven fabric with a checkered pattern formed by alternating red and white squares.* ### Example 4 Construct a 3.1/1.3 rearranged twill based on 16 threads sateen with a move number of 5. Solution - *A diagram shows a schematic representation of a woven fabric with a checkered pattern formed by alternating red and white squares.*

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