Waves

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Questions and Answers

Which factor determines the speed of waves in water?

The depth of the water (correct)

The distance of the wave

The friction in the water

The interference with the ocean floor

What happens to waves when they enter shallow water?

They slow down (correct)

They become more circular

They speed up

They become more flattened

What causes the orbits of waves to become flattened in shallow water?

Depth of the water

Interference with the ocean floor (correct)

Distance from the shore

Friction in the water

At what water depth do waves start to slow down due to interference with the ocean floor?

Less than 1/20th of the wave's distance Signup and view all the answers

What effect does friction have on waves in shallow water?

It slows them down Signup and view all the answers

What happens to the interference with the ocean floor as the water becomes shallower?

It increases Signup and view all the answers

Which type of waves are affected by the interference with the ocean floor?

Shallow water waves Signup and view all the answers

What is the relationship between water depth and wave speed?

Direct Signup and view all the answers

Which type of waves involve the medium vibrating back and forth, like sound waves?

Longitudinal waves Signup and view all the answers

What term is used to describe the height of a wave divided by its wavelength?

Wave steepness Signup and view all the answers

Which type of waves propagate through solids, liquids, and gases?

Longitudinal waves Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the time it takes for one wavelength to pass a fixed point?

Wave period Signup and view all the answers

Which type of waves involve the medium moving in a circular motion?

Orbital waves Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for waves that occur when the water depth is greater than the wave base?

Deep water waves Signup and view all the answers

How can wave speed, or celerity, be calculated?

Using the wavelength and period Signup and view all the answers

Which unit of measurement is used to describe the length of the waves in the text?

Centimeters Signup and view all the answers

Which type of waves are considered shallow water waves?

Tsunamis Signup and view all the answers

What type of waves are produced when the wind lightly blows across the water surface?

Capillary waves Signup and view all the answers

What is the period of tides?

24 hours Signup and view all the answers

What type of waves are produced when the wind continues to blow across the water surface?

Gravity waves Signup and view all the answers

What factors determine the speed of a wave in shallow water?

Water depth and wavelength Signup and view all the answers

Which type of waves have a wavelength greater than 1 in the text?

Gravity waves Signup and view all the answers

What are capillary waves?

Small rounded waves with v-shaped troughs Signup and view all the answers

What factor determines whether waves will catch more energy in the text?

Wind speed Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for a wave that is transitioning from a deep water wave to a shallow water wave?

Transitional wave Signup and view all the answers

Which factor is theorized to be the main cause of rogue waves?

Constructive wave interference Signup and view all the answers

Where do rogue waves tend to occur more frequently?

Near weather fronts Signup and view all the answers

What is the term used to describe massive, spontaneous waves that can reach enormous heights and occur unpredictably?

Rogue waves Signup and view all the answers

Why is accurate prediction and detection of rogue waves challenging?

Lack of shipboard measurements Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the area close to the shoreline where rogue waves can occur?

Surf zone Signup and view all the answers

Study Notes

Properties and Types of Waves

A wave is a traveling disturbance that carries energy and occurs periodically.
Waves can be generated by a disturbing force, such as wind in the case of ocean waves.
Ocean waves start off small in the middle of the ocean and can grow in size as they reach the coast.
Waves can form at the interface between different states of matter, such as the ocean-air interface or the water-water interface.
Waves can also form in the atmosphere, leading to the development of atmospheric waves and cloud formations.
Internal waves can occur between density differences in a medium, such as the warm and cold water layers in the ocean.
Waves transmit energy and the amount of energy carried by waves can vary depending on the driving force behind them, such as wind, tsunamis, or tides.
Longitudinal waves involve the medium vibrating back and forth, like sound waves.
Transverse waves involve the medium vibrating up and down, like waves on a string.
Orbital waves, such as ocean waves, involve the medium moving in a circular motion.
Different types of waves behave differently in different states of matter, with longitudinal waves propagating through solids, liquids, and gases, while transverse waves only propagate through solids.
Understanding the properties and types of waves is important for various fields, such as geology, where earthquake waves help us understand the interior of the Earth.Key Facts about Water Waves
The wave base is a term specific to water waves, and it is about half the wavelength of the wave.
Water waves are caused by wind creating a disturbance on the surface, leading to circular motion of water particles.
The circular motion of water particles decreases as it reaches the bottom, resulting in almost no motion below the wave base.
Wave steepness is the height of the wave divided by the wavelength, and if it is greater than 1, the wave breaks.
Wave period is the time for one wavelength to pass a fixed point, while wave frequency is the inverse of the period.
Wave period is used for longer waves, while wave frequency is used for shorter waves like sound and light.
The diameter of the circular motion decreases with water depth, and the depth where the motion stops is the wave base.
Deep water waves occur when the water depth is greater than the wave base, while shallow water waves occur when it is less.
Deep water waves have most of their mass below the wave base and are used by structures like oil rigs and submarines.
Wave speed, or celerity, can be calculated using the wavelength and period, with longer wavelength waves generally traveling faster.
If the water depth is less than one twentieth of the wavelength, it becomes a shallow water wave and slows down.
Shallow water waves can experience interference when they reach the sea floor.

Rogue Waves: The Phenomenon and Impact

Waves with pointed crests and rounded drops increase in height more rapidly than their wavelength
Wind speed needs to be faster than wave speed to impart more energy to the wave
Factors affecting wave energy include wind speed, duration, and distance over which the wind blows
Most wave heights on the open ocean are less than 2 meters, but can get much larger
Waves become over steepened and form white caps when wave height divided by wavelength is greater than 1/7
The Beaufort wind scale describes the types of waves under different wind conditions
The largest recorded wave was estimated to be 112 feet in height
Waves move away from the sea area where they were formed and smooth out as they become swell
Swell waves are uniform, symmetrical, and transport energy over long distances
Wave dispersion causes longer wavelength waves to move faster and separate into groups with similar characteristics
Interference patterns occur when waves pass each other, resulting in constructive or destructive interference
Rogue waves are massive, spontaneous waves that can reach enormous heights and occur unpredictablyRogue Waves and their Causes
Rogue waves are suspected to be the cause of many ship sinkings each year.
Scientists lack detailed shipboard measurements of rogue waves due to their unpredictable nature and the limitations of ships as observational platforms.
The main cause of rogue waves is theorized to be constructive wave interference, where multiple waves overlap in phase to produce an extremely large wave.
Rogue waves tend to occur more frequently near weather fronts and downwind from islands or shoals.
Modeling of wave conditions in the Pacific suggests that rogue waves can be created when low and high frequency components of ordinary ocean waves interact and channel their energy into a narrow frequency band.
The formation of rogue waves is still being studied and is not entirely understood.
Rogue waves appear without warning, making them dangerous and unpredictable.
Rogue waves can be significantly larger than surrounding waves, posing a threat to ships and other maritime activities.
Due to the lack of shipboard measurements, accurate prediction and detection of rogue waves is challenging.
Rogue waves have been known to capsize ships, such as the Japanese fishing vessel in 2008.
Rogue waves can occur in the surf zone, which is an area close to the shoreline.
Further research is needed to better understand the formation and behavior of rogue waves.

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Description

Test your knowledge on the properties and types of waves, including water waves. Learn about wave formation, energy transmission, and the behavior of different wave types in various states of matter. Explore the specific characteristics of water waves and their unique features.