Wave Action and Dynamics
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Questions and Answers

What is the primary material that coral polyps secrete to form coral reefs?

  • Silica
  • Calcium carbonate (correct)
  • Sodium chloride
  • Phosphate

Which temperature range is essential for coral reefs to thrive?

  • 23-29°C (correct)
  • 15-20°C
  • 20-25°C
  • 30-35°C

What is a major negative impact of muddy or turbid water on coral reefs?

  • Balances salinity levels
  • Reduces light penetration (correct)
  • Enhances coral growth
  • Increases oxygen levels

Which type of reef is directly attached to the shore?

<p>Fringing reef (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How do coral reefs provide economic support to local communities?

<p>Through sources of food and tourism (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a consequence of climate change for coral reefs?

<p>Coral bleaching (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which action is NOT a way humans negatively impact coral reefs?

<p>Urban gardening (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which type of coral reef forms a ring around a lagoon?

<p>Atoll (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What method of erosion involves the force of water compressing air in rock cracks?

<p>Hydraulic action (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which process describes the breakdown of rocks into smaller particles due to collisions with each other?

<p>Attrition (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

In the context of wave transport, what is defined as larger particles bouncing along the seabed?

<p>Saltation (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following processes directly describes how sediment is transported along the coastline?

<p>Longshore drift (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What geological feature is formed by softer rock eroding faster than harder rock, resulting in a protrusion into the sea?

<p>Headland (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which term describes a coastal body of water that is partially surrounded by land?

<p>Bay (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary biological structure built by coral polyps in a coral reef?

<p>Calcium carbonate (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of erosion occurs when sediment carried by waves scrapes and wears away rock surfaces?

<p>Abrasion (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What primarily forms waves on water surfaces?

<p>The wind interacting with the water's surface (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to a wave as it approaches shallow water?

<p>It compresses and becomes steeper until it breaks (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which statement accurately defines a destructive wave?

<p>A wave that erodes the coastline and pulls sediment back to the sea (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What term describes the highest point of a wave?

<p>Crest (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What does the term 'swash' refer to in wave action?

<p>The water running up the beach after a wave breaks (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary difference between constructive and destructive waves?

<p>Constructive waves contribute to beach formation, while destructive waves erode the beach (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the process called when a wave's energy is compressed as it approaches the shore?

<p>Breaking (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Where are destructive waves particularly observable in Barbados?

<p>East and south coasts (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Flashcards

Wave

A disturbance transferring energy through matter or space by vibrations.

Wave Formation

Primarily formed by wind interacting with water's surface, transferring energy, starting as ripples, building to larger waves.

Wave Breaking

Occurs when shallow water compresses wave energy, causing the crest to fall, making it a breaking wave.

Constructive Wave

Gentle, low-energy waves depositing sediment on a beach, creating a wider beach.

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Destructive Wave

Steep, high-energy waves eroding coastlines by carrying sediment away.

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Swash

Water running up the beach after a wave breaks.

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Backwash

Water flowing back down the beach to the sea after a wave.

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Barbados Coastlines

East and south coasts experiencing destructive waves/high energy.

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Hydraulic Action

The force of water breaking apart rocks by compressing air in cracks.

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Abrasion

Waves scrape and wear down rock surfaces using sediment.

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Wave-cut Platform

Flat area at the base of a cliff formed by wave erosion.

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Longshore Drift

Sediment movement along a coast due to waves hitting at an angle.

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Headland

A rocky point projecting into the sea, formed by resistant rock.

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Bay

A body of water partly surrounded by land.

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Coral Reef

An underwater ecosystem made of coral polyps.

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Attrition

Rocks breaking down into smaller pieces by colliding.

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Coral Reef Formation

Coral reefs are built by coral polyps accumulating calcium carbonate over time.

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Coral Reef Thrive Conditions

Warm (23-29°C) clear water, proper salinity, and adequate sunlight are needed for coral reef health, plus beneficial algae and fish.

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Negative Impacts

Muddy, polluted water harms coral reefs by reducing light for photosynthesis and smothering them.

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Fringing Reef

A coral reef directly attached or very near the shore.

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Barrier Reef

A coral reef separated from the shore by a lagoon.

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Atoll

A ring-shaped reef encircling a lagoon, formed from sunken volcanic islands

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Coral Bleaching Cause

Increased sea temperatures cause coral bleaching by expelling symbiotic algae.

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Climate Change Coral Threat

Climate change raises sea temperatures and causes ocean acidification, damaging coral reefs by bleaching and hindering skeleton formation.

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Study Notes

Wave Action

  • Waves transfer energy through matter or space, oscillating around a rest position.
  • Waves are primarily formed by wind friction on water's surface, creating ripples that develop into larger waves.
  • Wave breaking occurs when a wave enters shallow water, the bottom interacts, energy compresses, and the crest falls over.
  • Constructive waves have gentle slopes, carry sediment onshore, and contribute positively to beach formation. They have a longer wavelength.
  • Destructive waves have steeper slopes, higher energy, erode coastlines, pulling sediment back into the sea, and causing beaches to narrow. They have shorter wavelengths.
  • Crest: Highest point of a wave.
  • Trough: Lowest point of a wave.
  • Wavelength: Distance between two successive crests or troughs.
  • Wave height: Vertical distance between crest and trough.
  • Swash: Water moving up the beach when a wave breaks.
  • Backwash: Water flowing back down the beach to the sea.
  • Destructive waves are often more intense and noticeable along the east and south coasts of Barbados.

How Waves Erode Land

  • Hydraulic action: Water pressure in cracks of rocks causes them to break apart.
  • Abrasion: Rocks and sediment carried by waves wear down surfaces they collide with.
  • Attrition: Rocks collide with each other, breaking into smaller pieces.
  • Solution: Seawater dissolves soluble materials in rocks, causing erosion.

Transport of Eroded Material

  • Suspension: Small particles carried within the water column.
  • Saltation: Larger particles bouncing along the seabed.
  • Traction: Heavy materials are rolled along the seabed.
  • Dissolution: Soluble materials are dissolved and carried away in water.

Longshore Drift

  • Longshore drift is the process where sediment is moved along a coastline due to waves hitting the shore at an angle. The water receding pulls sediment back down the beach, creating an angled zigzag pattern.

Headlands and Bays

  • Headland: A rocky point of land extending into the sea, formed by more resistant rock remaining after softer rocks are eroded.
  • Bay: A coastal body of water partially enclosed by land, typically found between headlands where weaker rock has weathered away faster.

Coral Reefs

  • Coral reefs are diverse underwater ecosystems formed by colonies of coral polyps, building calcium carbonate structures.
  • Necessary conditions for thriving coral reefs include water temperatures between 23-29°C, clear sunlight, sufficient salinity, and well-aerated water.
  • Negative impacts on coral reefs can include turbid or polluted water, hindering photosynthesis, and causing algal blooms.
  • Coral reefs provide habitats for numerous marine species, protect coastlines from erosion and storm surges, contribute to tourism and local economies, and serve as a critical food source for coastal communities.
  • Human activities like Coastal development, overfishing, pollution, climate change, and tourist impacts can negatively affect coral reef health.
  • Climate change impacts can cause coral bleaching, a stress response causing coral to expel symbiotic algae and lose color and nutrients. Ocean acidification weakens coral's ability to build calcium carbonate skeletons, threatening reef structures.
  •  Different types of coral reefs exist: fringing reefs, barrier reefs, and atolls.

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Wave Action PDF

Description

Explore the fascinating world of wave action with this quiz that covers key concepts such as wave formation, types of waves, and their impact on coastlines. Understand the differences between constructive and destructive waves, as well as important terms like crest, trough, and wavelength. Test your knowledge on how wave energy affects beaches and marine environments.

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