The History of Inabel Fabric in the Philippines

Inabel Fabric History

The Inabel fabric is a traditional textile from the Philippines known for its intricate designs and unique weaving techniques. It has been a part of Filipino culture for centuries and continues to hold significant value today. Here's a brief overview of the history of this fascinating material.

Origins and Development

According to some sources, the origins of Inabel can be traced back over two thousand years. However, it was mainly during the Spanish colonial period when the production of Inabel fabrics reached its peak in many towns across Northern Luzon. The name 'Inabel', which comes from the ilustrado Tagalogization of the term ibero (Spain), signifies the close association between Spain and the development of Inabel in the region.

During the late 18th century, Inabel gained wide acceptance among wealthy people, including Spanish friars, who wore it regularly. Its popularity spread across social strata due to its affordability compared to other luxury goods imported by the Spaniards. This led to the wide dissemination of the art of making cloth throughout northern Luzon, where local weavers were encouraged to produce their own versions of Inabel with more varied designs.

Changing Weaving Techniques and Designs

Over time, Inabel evolved through different stages with varying colors, patterns, and design schemes. Initially, Inabel fabrics featured small geometric shapes such as crosses, squares, diamonds, lozenges, zigzags, etc., arranged symmetrically around a central point. These early forms resemble Middle Eastern textiles and may have come via Chinese influence into the hands of Ibanag tribes who adopted them as integral parts of their native weaves.

By the turn of the 20th century, Inabel had undergone further developments because of technological advancements like the introduction of power handlooms which replaced manual methods. Consequently, there emerged a new type of Inabel called Sinablan—elaborate towels used for ceremonial purposes with brightly colored abstract floral motifs borrowed from European prints.

Today, various types of cotton thread, yarn size, color combinations, weave structures, and stitching arrangements are employed in creating contemporary versions of Inabel. At present, the primary market for these fabrics consists of tourists looking for souvenirs or ethnic items. Despite being commercially produced nowadays rather than being traditionally woven by indigenous peoples, Inabel remains an attractive commodity mirroring cultural exchanges between the East and West.

Cultural Significance and Preservation Efforts

Throughout history, the creation of Inabel was primarily motivated by religious needs and commercial reasons. While it was never considered fine enough to serve as royal cloth or war garment, it filled the need for affordable clothing suited to the hot Philippine climate. Moreover, since weaving was mostly done within homes, the creation process doubled up as a form of women's work and family maintenance activity.

However, starting in the mid-20th century, after World War II, both commercial demand and cultural traditions surrounding Inabel began to decline. This threatened the survival of the craftsmanship involved in producing these fabrics and risked causing loss of knowledge pertinent to its historical significance. To protect this heritage, several initiatives aimed at reviving interest in Inabel have taken place. For instance, the National Commission for Culture and Arts provides assistance to selected barangays in support of community projects related to the preservation of indigenous arts and skills, one of which focuses on enhancing the marketing potential of Inabel products. Additionally, small-scale workshops utilizing battery electric jacquard loom machines have also contributed to the revitalization of Inabel manufacturing while maintaining its traditional features.

Despite these efforts, challenges remain. There isn't much modern technology available to make Inabel production easier nor do the younger generation perceive Inabel as valuable as older generations view silk or gold. Nonetheless, awareness campaigns targeting foreigners interested in ethnic arts have shown promise in promoting sales, thus supporting the sustainability of the industry.