The Evolution of Fashion Design

Evolution of Fashion Design

Fashion design developed in the 19th century with the first designer to have his label sewn into garments being Charles Frederick Worth.
Before the 19th century, most clothing was made-to-measure by dressmakers or seamstresses, but ready-to-wear stores were established in the mid-19th century.
Printed designs from Paris were the basis for fashion designs in Europe, with seamstresses interpreting these patterns.
The first fashion magazines with photographs began to appear in the early 20th century, and they had a profound effect on public taste.
Rose Bertin, the dressmaker to Marie Antoinette, is regarded as the first internationally famous fashion designer.
Charles Frederick Worth is regarded as the first designer in the modern sense of the term, with a large business employing anonymous tailors and seamstresses.
The Belle Époque retained the elaborate style of the 19th century, with changes in clothing distinguished by different trimmings.
The S-Bend silhouette dominated fashion up until around 1908, when Paul Poiret introduced designs that did not include a petticoat or a corset.
The period between the two World Wars is considered the Golden Age of French fashion, with haute couture finding new clients in actresses, heiresses, and industrialists' wives and daughters.
The 1920s saw a radical change in fashion, with bouffant coiffures giving way to short bobs, dresses with long trains to above-the-knee pinafores, and corsets to androgynous styles.
Coco Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin, and Jean Patou were prominent French designers of the 1920s.
Men's fashion became more informal, with a focus on youthfulness and relaxation, and the London cut was very popular.A Brief History of Fashion from the 1920s to the 1950s
The 1920s saw the rise of the flapper style, featuring short hemlines, dropped waists, and two-tone shoes.
The Great Depression of the 1930s led to more somber and modest fashion, with a renewed appreciation of the bust and a neo-classical shape for the female body.
Elsa Schiaparelli and Madeleine Vionnet were two of the most prominent and influential fashion designers of the 1930s.
The 1940s were marked by World War II and the occupation of Paris, leading to the closure of many fashion houses and the rationing of fabric.
Hats were a popular way to add color and extravagance to outfits during the war years.
American designers such as Vera Maxwell, Bonnie Cashin, and Claire McCardell paved the way for American sportswear.
Christian Dior's "New Look" in 1947 emphasized the feminine hourglass figure with accentuated busts, tiny waists, and full skirts.
The 1950s saw a return to past fashion trends and the rise of haute couture with designers such as Cristóbal Balenciaga, Hubert de Givenchy, and Pierre Balmain.
Coco Chanel made a comeback with her famous little braided suit and costume jewelry.
Mainbocher designed military and civilian service uniforms, including the Women Marines service uniform.
Foundationwear, such as girdles and corselettes, regained popularity in the 1950s.Fashion Trends from 1950s to 1970s
The 1950s saw the rise of lingerie industry with scientifically designed bras and the popularity of American look in Europe for men's fashion.
Hollywood designers created a particular glamour for American film stars, and everyday women's clothing consisted of long coats, hats, and knee-length dresses with pearl necklaces.
The 1960s saw a radical shake-up in fashion with the emergence of various fashion trends, including the throwback to the 1920s with bobbed haircuts and less modest clothing for women.
The '60s also saw the rise of influential designers, including Mary Quant, Pierre Cardin, and Paco Rabanne, with a focus on simple, neat, and colorful designs.
The 1970s saw the continuation of the hippie look of the late 1960s and the emergence of radical chic influenced by black civil rights and soul music, resulting in the unisex fashion trend.
Kenzo Takada and Sonia Rykiel were two innovative designers in France, while Laura Ashley popularized the resolutely unmodern, feminine, countrified style of clothing in the UK.
Punk movement emerged in London, while the United States saw the rise of Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, who adapted European fashion to the American clothing industry.
Geoffrey Beene was praised for his elegant and sophisticated cuts and his use of black and white in his designs.Fashion Trends from the 1970s to the 1990s
Bill Blass traveled all over the US to hear what his customers wanted, becoming one of the most popular designers of the 1960s and favored by businesswomen and senior executives.
Betsey Johnson brought an unprecedented spirit of irreverence to New York in the 1970s with her use of vinyl, metallic fabrics, and emphasis on wit, imagination, and independence.
Glam rock clothing worn by David Bowie and Marc Bolan was influential in the UK, with Elio Fiorucci selling similar looks in his Milan boutique.
Menswear boutiques in the 1970s aimed to change the decor, rituals, and customer base of a traditionally 'difficult' trade, and designers looked beyond the traditional suit to work clothes and second-hand clothes.
Giorgio Armani and Nino Cerruti were the most influential Italian fashion designers of the 1970s, with Armani offering a restrained, androgynous style that greatly appealed to working women, and Cerruti occupying a unique position in Italian ready-to-wear.
In the 1980s, fashion shows became media-saturated spectaculars, and appearance was related to performance, particularly for young urban professionals who desired power. French designers Thierry Mugler, Azzedine Alaia, Claude Montana, and Christian Lacroix defined the look of the period, with Alaia greatly influencing the silhouette of the woman of the 1980s.
Japanese designers Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto offered a look that marked a total break with prevailing fashion, with flat shoes, no make-up, reserve, modesty, and secrecy as hallmarks of the modern look.
In American fashion, Donna Karan brought a feminine approach to the sober-colored, casual look that dominated American ready-to-wear, while Ralph Lauren's aristocratic style at affordable prices created a rallying point for an elite faced with avant-garde fashions.
In the 1990s, minimalism became the vogue, and styles of stark simplicity united around a new standard. Retro clothing inspired by the 1960s and 1970s was popular, and ready-to-wear retailers like The Gap, Banana Republic, and Eddie Bauer tapped into the needs of women who wanted comfortable, wearable clothes.
Gucci became the second biggest-selling fashion brand worldwide after LVMH, with Tom Ford as design director in 1994, triggering a tidal wave with his chic and shocking collections, perfumes for men and women, revamped boutiques, and advertising campaigns.
Prada became a true creative force in the fashion industry in the 1990s, with Miuccia Prada gaining fame for her subtle, streamlined, yet unquestionably luxurious style.
Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, and Calvin Klein were three of the most influential American fashion designers of the time, with Kors producing simple, well-cut garments that appealed to a new breed of wealthy American customers, Jacobs being a designer in the European sense of the word, and Klein becoming known for his minimalist designs.
Fashion tackled themes that had not previously been embraced, including rape, disability, religious violence, death, and body modification.