Podcast
Questions and Answers
What is the primary reason for hair greying?
What is the primary reason for hair greying?
Which of the following is an oxidising agent used in hair bleaching?
Which of the following is an oxidising agent used in hair bleaching?
What role does Ammonium Hydroxide play in hair bleaching?
What role does Ammonium Hydroxide play in hair bleaching?
Why should hair not be washed before bleaching?
Why should hair not be washed before bleaching?
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What is the primary component used in permanent hair colourants for oxidation?
What is the primary component used in permanent hair colourants for oxidation?
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What is the purpose of using acidic shampoos after bleaching?
What is the purpose of using acidic shampoos after bleaching?
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Which type of hair colourant uses a mix of highly coloured small dye molecules that penetrate deeply into the hair?
Which type of hair colourant uses a mix of highly coloured small dye molecules that penetrate deeply into the hair?
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What is a common aim of hair coloring?
What is a common aim of hair coloring?
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Which of the following statements regarding bleaching techniques is correct?
Which of the following statements regarding bleaching techniques is correct?
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What is the typical pH range for demi-permanent hair colourants?
What is the typical pH range for demi-permanent hair colourants?
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Which type of hair colourant is known for having a gradual build-up effect from repeated applications?
Which type of hair colourant is known for having a gradual build-up effect from repeated applications?
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Permanent colorants generally require what process?
Permanent colorants generally require what process?
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What role does ammonia play in the composition of permanent hair colourants?
What role does ammonia play in the composition of permanent hair colourants?
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What is a characteristic of temporary hair colourants?
What is a characteristic of temporary hair colourants?
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Which component is typically NOT part of a two-component system used in oxidative hair dyes?
Which component is typically NOT part of a two-component system used in oxidative hair dyes?
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What is the effect of using a demi-permanent hair colourant on pre-lightened hair?
What is the effect of using a demi-permanent hair colourant on pre-lightened hair?
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What is the primary role of thioglycolic acid in the hair perming process?
What is the primary role of thioglycolic acid in the hair perming process?
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How long is the typical process time for applying the reducing agent during hair perming?
How long is the typical process time for applying the reducing agent during hair perming?
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What happens to the hair during the neutralisation stage of perming?
What happens to the hair during the neutralisation stage of perming?
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What should be done to protect the scalp during the application of the reducing agent?
What should be done to protect the scalp during the application of the reducing agent?
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What role does hydrogen peroxide play in the dyeing process?
What role does hydrogen peroxide play in the dyeing process?
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What is the main aim of hair straightening or relaxing?
What is the main aim of hair straightening or relaxing?
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What is a desirable effect of using high pH in the hair dyeing process?
What is a desirable effect of using high pH in the hair dyeing process?
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What is the expected result of hair straightening after six weeks?
What is the expected result of hair straightening after six weeks?
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Which of the following compounds is oxidized to cysteic acid during bleaching?
Which of the following compounds is oxidized to cysteic acid during bleaching?
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How many intermediates and couplers are typically used to create dye colors?
How many intermediates and couplers are typically used to create dye colors?
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Which chemical is the most common oxidising agent used in hair perming?
Which chemical is the most common oxidising agent used in hair perming?
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What is the result of applying hair perming techniques under tension with rollers?
What is the result of applying hair perming techniques under tension with rollers?
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What is formed after the oxidation of melanin during the bleaching process?
What is formed after the oxidation of melanin during the bleaching process?
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What is a potential negative effect of bleaching on the hair cortex?
What is a potential negative effect of bleaching on the hair cortex?
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Which characteristic is NOT associated with demi and semi-permanent hair dyes?
Which characteristic is NOT associated with demi and semi-permanent hair dyes?
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What is typically included in the formulation of demi and semi-permanent hair dyes to enhance dye uptake?
What is typically included in the formulation of demi and semi-permanent hair dyes to enhance dye uptake?
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Which chemical process primarily contributes to the relaxing of very curly hair?
Which chemical process primarily contributes to the relaxing of very curly hair?
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What is the result of the chemical reaction between proteins and hydroxide ions in hair relaxation?
What is the result of the chemical reaction between proteins and hydroxide ions in hair relaxation?
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Which alkaline agent is considered particularly aggressive to the scalp during hair relaxing?
Which alkaline agent is considered particularly aggressive to the scalp during hair relaxing?
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Why is protective cream applied to the scalp before the alkaline cream in hair relaxing?
Why is protective cream applied to the scalp before the alkaline cream in hair relaxing?
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What happens to the elasticity of hair as a result of the hair relaxing process?
What happens to the elasticity of hair as a result of the hair relaxing process?
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Which type of product is referred to as 'lye relaxers'?
Which type of product is referred to as 'lye relaxers'?
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After applying the relaxing cream, what is the next step in the hair treatment process?
After applying the relaxing cream, what is the next step in the hair treatment process?
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What is the common misconception about non-lye relaxers?
What is the common misconception about non-lye relaxers?
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What is the primary characteristic of cationic hair dyes?
What is the primary characteristic of cationic hair dyes?
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Which of the following statements about temporary hair dyes is correct?
Which of the following statements about temporary hair dyes is correct?
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What is the role of thioglycolic acid in hair perming?
What is the role of thioglycolic acid in hair perming?
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Why is hair strengthening and waving more popular in the Far East?
Why is hair strengthening and waving more popular in the Far East?
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What happens to the hair fibers during the oxidation stage of perming?
What happens to the hair fibers during the oxidation stage of perming?
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Which type of temporary hair dye has no substantivity?
Which type of temporary hair dye has no substantivity?
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What is the significance of the pH in formulating thioglycolic acid for perming?
What is the significance of the pH in formulating thioglycolic acid for perming?
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What does the term 'substantivity' refer to in the context of hair dyes?
What does the term 'substantivity' refer to in the context of hair dyes?
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Study Notes
Specialist Haircare Products
- Gabriela Daniels presented a lecture on specialist haircare products.
- The presentation covered hairdressing history, hair colouring, perming/relaxing, and hair fibre properties vs chemical alterations.
Hairdressing History
- Images from the 1920s were displayed, illustrating hairdressing techniques of the era.
- The presentation exemplified historical haircare processes.
Lesson Agenda
- The lecture included hair colouring.
- Key differences in hair perming and relaxing techniques were discussed.
- A comprehensive overview of hair fibre properties contrasted with the effects of chemical alterations.
Hair Colour
- Hair colour is influenced by eumelanin and pheomelanin, created in the anagen phase of the hair growth cycle by melanocytes within the hair follicle.
- Hair greying is associated with cumulative oxidative damage within hair follicles, genetic factors, stress, and nutrition.
- Research including a publication from the Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2024), details these factors and possible temporary/partial reversion.
Hair Colouring
- Hair colouring aims can be to cover grey, change existing colour, or a combination of both.
- The longevity of results varies.
- A table categorized temporary, semi-permanent, demi-permanent, permanent, and bleach treatments, categorized by duration.
Basics of Hair Bleaching
- Bleaching involves oxidizing agents (e.g., H2O2).
- Alkalisers (e.g., Ammonium Hydroxide) contribute to cuticle swelling and oxidising agent access.
- Persulfates are a recent alternative.
- Thickened/creams are used to ensure proper product application.
- Hair health preservation is paramount during the bleaching process.
- Post-bleaching care recommendations are included, emphasizing the reduction of protein damage via acidic shampoos.
Hair Colour Lightening
- Hair colour lightening is a necessary component of permanent colouring.
- The bleaching power required to alter various hair colours was illustrated in a table.
Hair Colourants: Product Types and Modes of Action
- Permanent oxidative dyes are composed of two components: a colourless precursor activated by an alkaline medium and hydrogen peroxide.
- This causes dye products to be trapped inside the hair shaft.
- Demi-permanent or tone-on-tone oxidative dyes utilize monoethanolamine or amino propanol as alkalizers, using 2-3% H2O2 solution.
- Semi-permanent (direct) dyes involve small, coloured molecules that permeate the cortex, while temporary dyes reside on the surface with superficial colour.
Hair Colouring: Subtle vs Dramatic
- Hair dyeing can be subtle or dramatic.
- P-phenylenediamine was an innovation in the synthetic hair dye industry (1883).
- Current practices are regulated to minimize risks.
Oxidative Hair Dyes
- Two-component hair dyes are mixed before application.
- Colourless precursors penetrate the hair; are oxidized to form dye molecules within.
- These processes often include multiple intermediates and couplers to achieve varied colours.
- Various techniques and methods are used for optimized hair colouring efficiency
Hair Fibre and the Dye Molecules
- Microscopic images illustrate the effect of semi-permanent and permanent red colourants on hair fibres.
Temporary Hair Dyes
- Temporary hair dyes last for one shampoo.
- They present vibrant colours, are applied to the surface, and do not transfer to other materials.
- Cationic dyes are attracted to hair.
- Temporary dyes are used as colour boosters for oxidative colouring.
Some Temporary Hair Dyes (Basic/Acid)
- Some temporary dyes are large cationic or anionic molecules, residing on the hair surface, for subtle colouring.
Hair Perming and Relaxing: Similarities and Differences
- Similarities and differences between these techniques are discussed.
Hair Straightening (Relaxing)
- Aim: permanently reshape hair.
- Regrowth requires repeated treatment (approximately 6 weeks apart).
- Treatment is based on permanent waving methods but with thick formulations like creams.
- Relaxing of curly hair involves using strong alkali to treat.
Oxidation of Disulfide Bonds
- Oxidation of disulfide bonds affects approximately 30-40% to achieve a straight style.
- This weakens disulfide bonds and creates lanthionine bonds.
- Hair loses elasticity and is weakened during the process.
Chemistry of Hair Relaxing
- The use of common alkaline agents involving sodium, potassium, or lithium hydroxide are used in thick emulsions.
- These agents are applied in a controlled manner to aid in hair relaxing.
- Guanidine hydroxide is a milder alternative but less common.
- Terminology (e.g., 'lye relaxers') is sometimes used for products containing sodium hydroxide.
- The differing properties of LiOH (Lithium hydroxide) and KOH (Potassium Hydroxide) are noted in this section.
Hair Relaxing Technique
- Important steps for hair relaxing techniques are described including a protective cream application for the scalp.
- A thorough treatment-specific rinsing is critical.
- Subsequent hair washings with a neutralising shampoo ensures proper hair care after relaxation.
Summary of Chemical Treatments
- Market trends related to hair altering are detailed.
- Consumers are less inclined to alter hair colour/shape as frequently.
- Fewer consumers exhibit interest in altering their hair colour or style, suggesting a trend towards more natural and less frequent changes and treatment.
- Development of less aggressive chemical treatments is noted.
Scenario Treatments for Hair
- Three scenarios provide illustrations of current hair appearance and desired changes.
- The scenarios are practical examples to identify treatments, order, and expected related hair damage. Each scenario provides data for detailed consideration.
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Description
This quiz explores specialist haircare products, covering key topics such as hairdressing history, hair colouring techniques, and the differences between perming and relaxing. Additionally, it delves into hair fibre properties and how they interact with chemical alterations. Perfect for haircare enthusiasts and professionals alike.
