Specialist Haircare Products Overview

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Questions and Answers

What is the primary reason for hair greying?

  • Regular haircuts
  • Accumulation of hair products
  • Increased blood circulation to the scalp
  • Genetic factors and oxidative damage (correct)

Which of the following is an oxidising agent used in hair bleaching?

  • Ammonium Hydroxide
  • Calcium Carbonate
  • Hydrogen Peroxide (correct)
  • Sodium Sulfate

What role does Ammonium Hydroxide play in hair bleaching?

  • It causes cuticle swelling for better access (correct)
  • It stabilizes the oxidising agent
  • It enhances color longevity
  • It neutralizes the acidity of hair products

Why should hair not be washed before bleaching?

<p>To maintain protective lipids (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary component used in permanent hair colourants for oxidation?

<p>Hydrogen Peroxide (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the purpose of using acidic shampoos after bleaching?

<p>To reduce protein damage (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which type of hair colourant uses a mix of highly coloured small dye molecules that penetrate deeply into the hair?

<p>Semi-Permanent (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a common aim of hair coloring?

<p>To cover grey hair or change existing color (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following statements regarding bleaching techniques is correct?

<p>Bleaching near the scalp is faster due to higher temperatures. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the typical pH range for demi-permanent hair colourants?

<p>9.8 - 10.3 (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which type of hair colourant is known for having a gradual build-up effect from repeated applications?

<p>Progressive (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Permanent colorants generally require what process?

<p>Some degree of oxidation (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What role does ammonia play in the composition of permanent hair colourants?

<p>To provide alkalinity (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a characteristic of temporary hair colourants?

<p>They only reside on the hair surface (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which component is typically NOT part of a two-component system used in oxidative hair dyes?

<p>Lead Acetate (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the effect of using a demi-permanent hair colourant on pre-lightened hair?

<p>It will lighten the hair further (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary role of thioglycolic acid in the hair perming process?

<p>To rearrange disulfide bonds (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How long is the typical process time for applying the reducing agent during hair perming?

<p>5-20 minutes (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to the hair during the neutralisation stage of perming?

<p>New disulfide bonds are formed (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What should be done to protect the scalp during the application of the reducing agent?

<p>Apply oil or cream (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What role does hydrogen peroxide play in the dyeing process?

<p>It oxidizes primary intermediates to reactive intermediates. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the main aim of hair straightening or relaxing?

<p>To reshape hair permanently (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a desirable effect of using high pH in the hair dyeing process?

<p>Increased swelling and cuticle lifting for better dye penetration. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the expected result of hair straightening after six weeks?

<p>Complete regrowth requires a new treatment (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following compounds is oxidized to cysteic acid during bleaching?

<p>Disulfide bonds. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How many intermediates and couplers are typically used to create dye colors?

<p>2-5 intermediates and 2-5 couplers. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which chemical is the most common oxidising agent used in hair perming?

<p>Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the result of applying hair perming techniques under tension with rollers?

<p>Creating defined curls (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is formed after the oxidation of melanin during the bleaching process?

<p>Colourless products. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a potential negative effect of bleaching on the hair cortex?

<p>Hydrolysis of peptide bonds leading to porosity. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which characteristic is NOT associated with demi and semi-permanent hair dyes?

<p>Conducting chemical reactions. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is typically included in the formulation of demi and semi-permanent hair dyes to enhance dye uptake?

<p>Color pairs for even application. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which chemical process primarily contributes to the relaxing of very curly hair?

<p>Oxidation of disulfide bonds (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the result of the chemical reaction between proteins and hydroxide ions in hair relaxation?

<p>Creation of permanent lanthionine bonds (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which alkaline agent is considered particularly aggressive to the scalp during hair relaxing?

<p>Lithium hydroxide (LiOH) (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Why is protective cream applied to the scalp before the alkaline cream in hair relaxing?

<p>To prevent irritation and protect the scalp (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to the elasticity of hair as a result of the hair relaxing process?

<p>It is permanently lost (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which type of product is referred to as 'lye relaxers'?

<p>Products based on sodium hydroxide (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

After applying the relaxing cream, what is the next step in the hair treatment process?

<p>Thoroughly rinse the hair and scalp (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the common misconception about non-lye relaxers?

<p>They do not contain any alkaline agents (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary characteristic of cationic hair dyes?

<p>They are strongly attracted to hair. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following statements about temporary hair dyes is correct?

<p>They provide strong vibrant colors. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the role of thioglycolic acid in hair perming?

<p>To initiate the reducing stage of perming. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Why is hair strengthening and waving more popular in the Far East?

<p>Asian hair has a larger diameter and round shape. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to the hair fibers during the oxidation stage of perming?

<p>They experience internal stress while curled. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which type of temporary hair dye has no substantivity?

<p>Acid hair dyes. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the significance of the pH in formulating thioglycolic acid for perming?

<p>Higher pH helps in the breaking of disulfide bonds. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What does the term 'substantivity' refer to in the context of hair dyes?

<p>The dye's ability to adhere to the hair surface. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Flashcards

Hair coloring

The process of changing the color of hair using chemical agents.

Eumelanin and Pheomelanin

The natural pigments found within the hair shaft that determine its natural color. These pigments are produced during the hair growth cycle.

Hair lightening

Hair coloring techniques that aim to lighten the hair, which is a necessary step for many permanent hair colors.

Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2)

The active ingredient in most hair bleaching products, it oxidizes the natural hair pigment.

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Alkaliser (Ammonium Hydroxide)

A chemical agent used in hair bleaching to swell the hair cuticle, allowing hydrogen peroxide to penetrate and lighten the hair.

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Hair cuticle

The protective layer that surrounds the hair shaft, it plays a crucial role in protecting the hair during bleaching.

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Acidic shampoos

Products used to help maintain the pH balance of the hair after bleaching, reducing protein damage and preventing further damage.

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Anagen phase

The stage of hair growth where the hair shaft is actively growing and pigment is deposited.

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Permanent Hair Colorant

A type of hair colorant that uses a two-component system, mixing an alkaline medium with hydrogen peroxide just before use.

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Alkaline Medium

The alkaline component in permanent hair colorants, typically ammonia, which creates an environment for the dye precursors to react.

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Dye Precursors

Small, colorless molecules in permanent hair colorants that react with hydrogen peroxide to create larger, colored dye molecules.

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Demi-Permanent Hair Colorant

A type of hair colorant that uses a similar two-component system as permanent hair colorant but with a significantly lower concentration of hydrogen peroxide.

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Semi-Permanent Hair Colorant

Small, intensely colored molecules that penetrate the hair cortex, providing temporary color change.

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Temporary Hair Colorant

Large, intensely colored molecules that only coat the surface of the hair, providing temporary color change.

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Progressive Hair Colorant

A hair colorant that gradually builds up color over repeated applications by depositing metal-sulphides into the hair.

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Hair Dyeing

The process of using chemicals to change the color of hair, where colorless dye precursors penetrate the hair shaft and are oxidized to colorful polymers that get trapped inside.

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Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) in Hair Dyeing

A chemical compound that oxidizes primary dye intermediates to form the final colored dye molecules.

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Primary Intermediates in Hair Dyeing

Dye precursors that are colorless until oxidized, allowing them to penetrate the hair shaft before forming the final colored dye.

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Couplers in Hair Dyeing

Dye precursors that combine with oxidized primary intermediates to form a wide variety of hair colors.

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Bleaching Hair

The process of removing natural melanin pigments from the hair shaft, causing lighter shades, often a necessary step before dyeing.

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Eumelanin

The main pigment found in hair, responsible for shades from brown to black.

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Pheomelanin

A pigment found in hair responsible for red and blonde shades.

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Direct Dyes (Demi and Semi-permanent Hair Dyes)

Hair dyes that contain color molecules that directly attach to the hair shaft, providing temporary color that washes out over time.

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Hair straightening (relaxing)

A process that reshapes hair permanently using chemical treatments.

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Hair perming

A type of hair treatment that uses chemicals to change the texture of hair, usually to create curls or waves.

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Reducing step (hair perming)

The stage of hair perming where the chemical treatment is applied, causing the hair to become more pliable and receptive to shaping.

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Neutralisation (fixing) step (hair perming)

The stage of hair perming where the chemical treatment is applied, setting the desired shape and reforming new disulfide bonds.

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Reducing agent (hair perming)

The treatment used to break down existing disulfide bonds in the hair, allowing for reshaping.

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Oxidizing agent (hair perming)

The treatment used to reform and stabilize disulfide bonds in the hair, fixing the new shape.

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Thioglycolic acid

A chemical compound commonly used as a reducing agent in hair perming, breaking down disulfide bonds.

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Temporary Hair Dyes

Temporary hair dyes are colorants that adhere to the hair's surface, providing a temporary color change that washes out with one shampoo.

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Cationic Temporary Hair Dyes

Large cationic molecules attract to the negatively charged hair surface, giving it a temporary color change. They usually come in rinse-off products for subtle color effects.

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Anionic temporary hair dyes

Large anionic molecules are repelled by the negatively charged hair surface, so they are only used in leave-on products, as they don't stick on easily and don't provide a strong color. They don't usually have coloring effect, instead, they can add a subtle sheen or shine to the hair.

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Hair Perming: Reducing Stage

In hair perming, a reducing agent like thioglycolic acid (TGA) breaks the disulfide bonds within the hair structure. This allows for hair reshaping. It's a two-step process involving a reducing and an oxidation stage.

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Hair Perming: Oxidation Stage

In hair perming, hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is used in the oxidation stage. This helps reform the disulfide bonds in a new shape, resulting in the permanent curl.

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Asian Hair vs. Perming

Asian hair tends to have a thicker diameter and rounder shape, making it more difficult to style temporarily and more resistant to permanent waving. This is why hair strengthening and waving is a popular choice in Asia.

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Bleached Hair & Perming

Hair perming is less effective on bleached hair because the bleaching process alters the hair's structure, making it more fragile and less capable of holding a curl.

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Perming vs. Relaxing

Hair perming and hair relaxing share similarities in the use of reducing agents to break disulfide bonds and restructuring hair. The key difference lies in the direction of reshaping: perming creates curls while relaxing straightens the hair.

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Hair Relaxing

A chemical process that straightens curly hair by breaking disulfide bonds in the hair protein, using strong alkaline agents like sodium hydroxide (NaOH).

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Disulfide Bonds in Hair

Sulfhydryl groups (-SH) in hair protein are linked by disulfide bonds (-S-S-). These bonds give hair its shape and structure.

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How Relaxers Work

Strong alkaline agents like sodium hydroxide (NaOH) disrupt these bonds, causing the hair to become straight.

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Lanthionine

A chemical formed as a result of the reaction between proteins and hydroxide ions (OH-) during hair relaxing. It's a permanent bond that contributes to the straightening effect.

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Neutralizing After Relaxing

The process of neutralizing the alkali used in hair relaxing, restoring the pH balance of the hair and preventing further damage. It usually involves rinsing with a specialized shampoo.

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Hair Relaxing Technique

A hair smoothing technique that involves applying a protective cream to the scalp and then applying relaxing cream to the hair, strand by strand, avoiding reapplication over already straightened hair.

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Hair Damage from Relaxing

Damages the hair's protein structure, leading to weakening and potential breakage if not performed correctly or if the process is repeated too frequently.

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Protective Cream in Hair Relaxing

Protect the scalp and prevent the chemicals from spilling or coming into contact with unwanted areas during the relaxing process.

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Study Notes

Specialist Haircare Products

  • Gabriela Daniels presented a lecture on specialist haircare products.
  • The presentation covered hairdressing history, hair colouring, perming/relaxing, and hair fibre properties vs chemical alterations.

Hairdressing History

  • Images from the 1920s were displayed, illustrating hairdressing techniques of the era.
  • The presentation exemplified historical haircare processes.

Lesson Agenda

  • The lecture included hair colouring.
  • Key differences in hair perming and relaxing techniques were discussed.
  • A comprehensive overview of hair fibre properties contrasted with the effects of chemical alterations.

Hair Colour

  • Hair colour is influenced by eumelanin and pheomelanin, created in the anagen phase of the hair growth cycle by melanocytes within the hair follicle.
  • Hair greying is associated with cumulative oxidative damage within hair follicles, genetic factors, stress, and nutrition.
  • Research including a publication from the Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2024), details these factors and possible temporary/partial reversion.

Hair Colouring

  • Hair colouring aims can be to cover grey, change existing colour, or a combination of both.
  • The longevity of results varies.
  • A table categorized temporary, semi-permanent, demi-permanent, permanent, and bleach treatments, categorized by duration.

Basics of Hair Bleaching

  • Bleaching involves oxidizing agents (e.g., H2O2).
  • Alkalisers (e.g., Ammonium Hydroxide) contribute to cuticle swelling and oxidising agent access.
  • Persulfates are a recent alternative.
  • Thickened/creams are used to ensure proper product application.
  • Hair health preservation is paramount during the bleaching process.
  • Post-bleaching care recommendations are included, emphasizing the reduction of protein damage via acidic shampoos.

Hair Colour Lightening

  • Hair colour lightening is a necessary component of permanent colouring.
  • The bleaching power required to alter various hair colours was illustrated in a table.

Hair Colourants: Product Types and Modes of Action

  • Permanent oxidative dyes are composed of two components: a colourless precursor activated by an alkaline medium and hydrogen peroxide.
  • This causes dye products to be trapped inside the hair shaft.
  • Demi-permanent or tone-on-tone oxidative dyes utilize monoethanolamine or amino propanol as alkalizers, using 2-3% H2O2 solution.
  • Semi-permanent (direct) dyes involve small, coloured molecules that permeate the cortex, while temporary dyes reside on the surface with superficial colour.

Hair Colouring: Subtle vs Dramatic

  • Hair dyeing can be subtle or dramatic.
  • P-phenylenediamine was an innovation in the synthetic hair dye industry (1883).
  • Current practices are regulated to minimize risks.

Oxidative Hair Dyes

  • Two-component hair dyes are mixed before application.
  • Colourless precursors penetrate the hair; are oxidized to form dye molecules within.
  • These processes often include multiple intermediates and couplers to achieve varied colours.
  • Various techniques and methods are used for optimized hair colouring efficiency

Hair Fibre and the Dye Molecules

  • Microscopic images illustrate the effect of semi-permanent and permanent red colourants on hair fibres.

Temporary Hair Dyes

  • Temporary hair dyes last for one shampoo.
  • They present vibrant colours, are applied to the surface, and do not transfer to other materials.
  • Cationic dyes are attracted to hair.
  • Temporary dyes are used as colour boosters for oxidative colouring.

Some Temporary Hair Dyes (Basic/Acid)

  • Some temporary dyes are large cationic or anionic molecules, residing on the hair surface, for subtle colouring.

Hair Perming and Relaxing: Similarities and Differences

  • Similarities and differences between these techniques are discussed.

Hair Straightening (Relaxing)

  • Aim: permanently reshape hair.
  • Regrowth requires repeated treatment (approximately 6 weeks apart).
  • Treatment is based on permanent waving methods but with thick formulations like creams.
  • Relaxing of curly hair involves using strong alkali to treat.

Oxidation of Disulfide Bonds

  • Oxidation of disulfide bonds affects approximately 30-40% to achieve a straight style.
  • This weakens disulfide bonds and creates lanthionine bonds.
  • Hair loses elasticity and is weakened during the process.

Chemistry of Hair Relaxing

  • The use of common alkaline agents involving sodium, potassium, or lithium hydroxide are used in thick emulsions.
  • These agents are applied in a controlled manner to aid in hair relaxing.
  • Guanidine hydroxide is a milder alternative but less common.
  • Terminology (e.g., 'lye relaxers') is sometimes used for products containing sodium hydroxide.
  • The differing properties of LiOH (Lithium hydroxide) and KOH (Potassium Hydroxide) are noted in this section.

Hair Relaxing Technique

  • Important steps for hair relaxing techniques are described including a protective cream application for the scalp.
  • A thorough treatment-specific rinsing is critical.
  • Subsequent hair washings with a neutralising shampoo ensures proper hair care after relaxation.

Summary of Chemical Treatments

  • Market trends related to hair altering are detailed.
  • Consumers are less inclined to alter hair colour/shape as frequently.
  • Fewer consumers exhibit interest in altering their hair colour or style, suggesting a trend towards more natural and less frequent changes and treatment.
  • Development of less aggressive chemical treatments is noted.

Scenario Treatments for Hair

  • Three scenarios provide illustrations of current hair appearance and desired changes.
  • The scenarios are practical examples to identify treatments, order, and expected related hair damage. Each scenario provides data for detailed consideration.

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