Skincare Products and Ingredients for Estheticians

Importance of Skincare Products and Ingredients

• Estheticians should have a thorough understanding of skincare products and ingredients to provide the best treatment and products for clients.
• Knowledge of basic chemistry, formulations, and benefits of ingredients is crucial.
• Estheticians should be able to educate clients about products and ingredients, explaining what they do, why they are effective, and how to use them properly.

FDA Regulation of Cosmetics

• The FDA is responsible for ensuring the safety of cosmetics, including makeup and skincare products.
• The FDA regulates cosmetics under the authority of the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act.
• Cosmetic products do not require FDA approval before going on the market; the FDA only steps in if something goes wrong.
• Cosmetics may not be labeled or advertised with statements suggesting FDA approval.

Definition of Cosmetics and Drugs

• The FD&C Act defines cosmetics as articles intended to be used to cleanse, beautify, promote attractiveness, or alter the appearance of the skin.
• Drugs are defined as articles intended to diagnose, cure, mitigate, treat, or prevent disease, or to affect the structure or function of the body.
• Some products can be both cosmetics and drugs, such as acne treatments with lower doses of active ingredients.

Labeling Laws and Regulations

• Cosmetic companies must list the company name, location, and ingredients in the product on the label.
• Ingredients must be listed in descending order of predominance.
• Fragrances must be listed as "fragrance" but specific ingredients do not need to be disclosed.
• The FDA requires standardized INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names for each ingredient.

Product Safety and Adverse Reactions

• Companies and individuals who market cosmetics have a legal responsibility to ensure the safety and proper labeling of their products.
• Many ingredients used in skincare products and treatments can cause adverse reactions.
• Fragrances, preservatives, and chemical sunscreen ingredients are among the most common allergens.
• Physical sunscreens are generally safer than chemical sunscreens.

Handling Adverse Reactions

• If a client experiences an adverse reaction, remove the product immediately, rinse the skin with cold water, and apply cool compresses until the skin calms.
• If the reaction is serious, advise the client to seek medical care and bring the product with them to determine the cause.
• Notify the product manufacturer immediately.

Natural vs. Synthetic Ingredients

• Cosmetic ingredients can be derived from natural sources or synthesized in a lab.
• Natural ingredients can have powerful skin benefits, but some of the most effective ingredients are not derived from natural sources.
• Synthetic ingredients can be just as effective and may have advantages over natural ingredients.

Popular Terms Used in Cosmetics

• "Natural" or "all-natural" often refers to ingredients derived from natural sources.
• "Organic" describes natural sourced ingredients grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals.
• "Cruelty-free" refers to products that are not tested on animals.
• "Vegan" refers to products that do not contain any animal ingredients or byproducts.
• "Gluten-free" refers to products that do not contain gluten, a protein found in wheat, rye, and triticale.
• "Hypoallergenic" and "non-comedogenic" refer to ingredients that are less likely to cause allergic reactions or clog pores.### Fragrance vs. Unscented
• Fragrance-free products don't have added fragrances, but may still have a scent from ingredients.
• Unscented products are formulated to have no smell, often using chemicals to mask or neutralize odors.

Cosmetics Ingredients

• Ingredients can be functional (do not affect skin appearance) or performance (cause changes in skin appearance).
• Functional ingredients: water, emollients, surfactants, delivery systems, preservatives, fragrances, color agents, thickeners, pH adjusters, and solvents.
• Performance ingredients: cause physiological changes, e.g., AHAs, BHAs, retinoids, vitamin C, licorice root, and arbutin.

Water

• Can be a functional or performance ingredient.
• As a functional ingredient, water helps spread products and keeps other ingredients in solution.
• As a performance ingredient, water replenishes moisture on the skin's surface.

Emollients

• As a functional ingredient, emollients help spread and keep other substances on the skin.
• As a performance ingredient, emollients lubricate and guard the skin's barrier function.
• Examples: lipids, oils, fats, waxes, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and fatty esters.

Surfactants

• Reduce tension between skin and product, increasing product spreadability.
• Can act as cleansing agents, foaming agents, and emulsifiers.
• Examples: detergents and emulsifiers.

Delivery Systems

• Used to distribute key performance ingredients into the skin.
• Examples: liposomes, vehicles, and polymers.

Preservatives

• Prevent bacteria and other microorganisms from growing in products.
• Extend product shelf life.

Antioxidants

• Extend product shelf life and reduce oxidation.
• Chelating agents boost preservative efficacy.

Other Ingredients

• Fragrances: synthetic or natural, created from chemical ingredients or botanicals.
• Color agents: certified (FDA-approved) and non-certified (organic compounds).
• Thickeners: give products a specific consistency.
• pH adjusters: stabilize products and prevent extreme pH levels.
• Solvents: help dissolve ingredients in a formula.

Skin Types and Beneficial Ingredients

• Combination skin: benefits from emollients, humectants, and oil balancing/regulating ingredients.
• Dry skin: benefits from ceramides, emollients, and humectants.
• Dehydrated skin: benefits from humectants like hyaluronic acid.
• Oily skin: benefits from hydroxy acids, humectants, and light emollients.
• Acne and problematic skin: benefits from ingredients that address specific acne types (e.g., salicylic acid for blackheads).
• Sensitive skin: benefits from soothing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-irritant ingredients.
• Hyperpigmentation: benefits from retinoids, lighteners, and brighteners.
• Mature and aging skin: benefits from a combination of hydrating, retinoids, growth factors, and peptides.

Product Types

• Cleansers: come in different forms (e.g., foaming, cream, gel).
• Toners: rebalance skin pH after cleansing, can be hydrating or stripping.
• Exfoliants: physical, chemical, or enzymatic.
• Masks: hydrating, setting, or hardening.
• Serums and ampules: highly concentrated active ingredients.
• Moisturizers: daily use is essential.
• Sunscreens: daily use is essential.

Choosing a Professional Skincare Line

• Figure out your philosophy first (e.g., focusing on anti-aging, acne, or natural ingredients).
• Gain real-life experience working with different products and skin types.

Importance of Skincare Products and Ingredients

• Estheticians must have a thorough understanding of skincare products and ingredients to provide the best treatment and products for clients.
• Knowledge of basic chemistry, formulations, and benefits of ingredients is crucial for estheticians.

FDA Regulation of Cosmetics

• The FDA is responsible for ensuring the safety of cosmetics, including makeup and skincare products.
• Cosmetics are regulated under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act.
• Cosmetic products do not require FDA approval before going on the market.
• The FDA only steps in if something goes wrong.

Definition of Cosmetics and Drugs

• Cosmetics are articles intended to cleanse, beautify, promote attractiveness, or alter the appearance of the skin.
• Drugs are articles intended to diagnose, cure, mitigate, treat, or prevent disease, or to affect the structure or function of the body.
• Some products can be both cosmetics and drugs, such as acne treatments with lower doses of active ingredients.

Labeling Laws and Regulations

• Cosmetic companies must list the company name, location, and ingredients in the product on the label.
• Ingredients must be listed in descending order of predominance.
• Fragrances must be listed as "fragrance" but specific ingredients do not need to be disclosed.
• The FDA requires standardized INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names for each ingredient.

Product Safety and Adverse Reactions

• Companies and individuals who market cosmetics have a legal responsibility to ensure the safety and proper labeling of their products.
• Fragrances, preservatives, and chemical sunscreen ingredients are among the most common allergens.
• Physical sunscreens are generally safer than chemical sunscreens.

Handling Adverse Reactions

• If a client experiences an adverse reaction, remove the product immediately, rinse the skin with cold water, and apply cool compresses until the skin calms.
• If the reaction is serious, advise the client to seek medical care and bring the product with them to determine the cause.
• Notify the product manufacturer immediately.

Natural vs. Synthetic Ingredients

• Cosmetic ingredients can be derived from natural sources or synthesized in a lab.
• Natural ingredients can have powerful skin benefits, but some of the most effective ingredients are not derived from natural sources.
• Synthetic ingredients can be just as effective and may have advantages over natural ingredients.

Popular Terms Used in Cosmetics

• "Natural" or "all-natural" often refers to ingredients derived from natural sources.
• "Organic" describes natural sourced ingredients grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals.
• "Cruelty-free" refers to products that are not tested on animals.
• "Vegan" refers to products that do not contain any animal ingredients or byproducts.
• "Gluten-free" refers to products that do not contain gluten, a protein found in wheat, rye, and triticale.
• "Hypoallergenic" and "non-comedogenic" refer to ingredients that are less likely to cause allergic reactions or clog pores.

Fragrance vs. Unscented

• Fragrance-free products don't have added fragrances, but may still have a scent from ingredients.
• Unscented products are formulated to have no smell, often using chemicals to mask or neutralize odors.

Cosmetics Ingredients

• Ingredients can be functional (do not affect skin appearance) or performance (cause changes in skin appearance).
• Functional ingredients include water, emollients, surfactants, and delivery agents.
• Performance ingredients include antioxidants, exfoliants, and moisturizers.