Skincare Products and Ingredients for Estheticians

Importance of Skincare Products and Ingredients

• Estheticians should have a thorough understanding of skincare products and ingredients to provide the best treatment and products for clients.
• Knowledge of basic chemistry, formulations, and benefits of ingredients is crucial.
• Estheticians should be able to educate clients about products and ingredients, explaining what they do, why they are effective, and how to use them properly.

FDA Regulation of Cosmetics

• The FDA is responsible for ensuring the safety of cosmetics, including makeup and skincare products.
• The FDA regulates cosmetics under the authority of the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act.
• Cosmetic products do not require FDA approval before going on the market; the FDA only steps in if something goes wrong.
• Cosmetics may not be labeled or advertised with statements suggesting FDA approval.

Definition of Cosmetics and Drugs

• The FD&C Act defines cosmetics as articles intended to be used to cleanse, beautify, promote attractiveness, or alter the appearance of the skin.
• Drugs are defined as articles intended to diagnose, cure, mitigate, treat, or prevent disease, or to affect the structure or function of the body.
• Some products can be both cosmetics and drugs, such as acne treatments with lower doses of active ingredients.

Labeling Laws and Regulations

• Cosmetic companies must list the company name, location, and ingredients in the product on the label.
• Ingredients must be listed in descending order of predominance.
• Fragrances must be listed as "fragrance" but specific ingredients do not need to be disclosed.
• The FDA requires standardized INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names for each ingredient.

Product Safety and Adverse Reactions

• Companies and individuals who market cosmetics have a legal responsibility to ensure the safety and proper labeling of their products.
• Many ingredients used in skincare products and treatments can cause adverse reactions.
• Fragrances, preservatives, and chemical sunscreen ingredients are among the most common allergens.
• Physical sunscreens are generally safer than chemical sunscreens.

Handling Adverse Reactions

• If a client experiences an adverse reaction, remove the product immediately, rinse the skin with cold water, and apply cool compresses until the skin calms.
• If the reaction is serious, advise the client to seek medical care and bring the product with them to determine the cause.
• Notify the product manufacturer immediately.

Natural vs. Synthetic Ingredients

• Cosmetic ingredients can be derived from natural sources or synthesized in a lab.
• Natural ingredients can have powerful skin benefits, but some of the most effective ingredients are not derived from natural sources.
• Synthetic ingredients can be just as effective and may have advantages over natural ingredients.

Popular Terms Used in Cosmetics

• "Natural" or "all-natural" often refers to ingredients derived from natural sources.
• "Organic" describes natural sourced ingredients grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals.
• "Cruelty-free" refers to products that are not tested on animals.
• "Vegan" refers to products that do not contain any animal ingredients or byproducts.
• "Gluten-free" refers to products that do not contain gluten, a protein found in wheat, rye, and triticale.
• "Hypoallergenic" and "non-comedogenic" refer to ingredients that are less likely to cause allergic reactions or clog pores.### Fragrance vs. Unscented
• Fragrance-free products don't have added fragrances, but may still have a scent from ingredients.
• Unscented products are formulated to have no smell, often using chemicals to mask or neutralize odors.

Cosmetics Ingredients

• Ingredients can be functional (do not affect skin appearance) or performance (cause changes in skin appearance).
• Functional ingredients: water, emollients, surfactants, delivery systems, preservatives, fragrances, color agents, thickeners, pH adjusters, and solvents.
• Performance ingredients: cause physiological changes, e.g., AHAs, BHAs, retinoids, vitamin C, licorice root, and arbutin.

Water

• Can be a functional or performance ingredient.
• As a functional ingredient, water helps spread products and keeps other ingredients in solution.
• As a performance ingredient, water replenishes moisture on the skin's surface.

Emollients

• As a functional ingredient, emollients help spread and keep other substances on the skin.
• As a performance ingredient, emollients lubricate and guard the skin's barrier function.
• Examples: lipids, oils, fats, waxes, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and fatty esters.

Surfactants

• Reduce tension between skin and product, increasing product spreadability.
• Can act as cleansing agents, foaming agents, and emulsifiers.
• Examples: detergents and emulsifiers.

Delivery Systems

• Used to distribute key performance ingredients into the skin.
• Examples: liposomes, vehicles, and polymers.

Preservatives

• Prevent bacteria and other microorganisms from growing in products.
• Extend product shelf life.

Antioxidants

• Extend product shelf life and reduce oxidation.
• Chelating agents boost preservative efficacy.

Other Ingredients

• Fragrances: synthetic or natural, created from chemical ingredients or botanicals.
• Color agents: certified (FDA-approved) and non-certified (organic compounds).
• Thickeners: give products a specific consistency.
• pH adjusters: stabilize products and prevent extreme pH levels.
• Solvents: help dissolve ingredients in a formula.

Skin Types and Beneficial Ingredients

• Combination skin: benefits from emollients, humectants, and oil balancing/regulating ingredients.
• Dry skin: benefits from ceramides, emollients, and humectants.
• Dehydrated skin: benefits from humectants like hyaluronic acid.
• Oily skin: benefits from hydroxy acids, humectants, and light emollients.
• Acne and problematic skin: benefits from ingredients that address specific acne types (e.g., salicylic acid for blackheads).
• Sensitive skin: benefits from soothing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-irritant ingredients.
• Hyperpigmentation: benefits from retinoids, lighteners, and brighteners.
• Mature and aging skin: benefits from a combination of hydrating, retinoids, growth factors, and peptides.

Product Types

• Cleansers: come in different forms (e.g., foaming, cream, gel).
• Toners: rebalance skin pH after cleansing, can be hydrating or stripping.
• Exfoliants: physical, chemical, or enzymatic.
• Masks: hydrating, setting, or hardening.
• Serums and ampules: highly concentrated active ingredients.
• Moisturizers: daily use is essential.
• Sunscreens: daily use is essential.

Choosing a Professional Skincare Line

• Figure out your philosophy first (e.g., focusing on anti-aging, acne, or natural ingredients).
• Gain real-life experience working with different products and skin types.

Importance of Skincare Products and Ingredients

• Estheticians must have a thorough understanding of skincare products and ingredients to provide the best treatment and products for clients.
• Knowledge of basic chemistry, formulations, and benefits of ingredients is crucial for estheticians.

FDA Regulation of Cosmetics

• The FDA is responsible for ensuring the safety of cosmetics, including makeup and skincare products.
• Cosmetics are regulated under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act.
• Cosmetic products do not require FDA approval before going on the market.
• The FDA only steps in if something goes wrong.

Definition of Cosmetics and Drugs

• Cosmetics are articles intended to cleanse, beautify, promote attractiveness, or alter the appearance of the skin.
• Drugs are articles intended to diagnose, cure, mitigate, treat, or prevent disease, or to affect the structure or function of the body.
• Some products can be both cosmetics and drugs, such as acne treatments with lower doses of active ingredients.

Labeling Laws and Regulations

• Cosmetic companies must list the company name, location, and ingredients in the product on the label.
• Ingredients must be listed in descending order of predominance.
• Fragrances must be listed as "fragrance" but specific ingredients do not need to be disclosed.
• The FDA requires standardized INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names for each ingredient.

Product Safety and Adverse Reactions

• Companies and individuals who market cosmetics have a legal responsibility to ensure the safety and proper labeling of their products.
• Fragrances, preservatives, and chemical sunscreen ingredients are among the most common allergens.
• Physical sunscreens are generally safer than chemical sunscreens.

Handling Adverse Reactions

• If a client experiences an adverse reaction, remove the product immediately, rinse the skin with cold water, and apply cool compresses until the skin calms.
• If the reaction is serious, advise the client to seek medical care and bring the product with them to determine the cause.
• Notify the product manufacturer immediately.

Natural vs. Synthetic Ingredients

• Cosmetic ingredients can be derived from natural sources or synthesized in a lab.
• Natural ingredients can have powerful skin benefits, but some of the most effective ingredients are not derived from natural sources.
• Synthetic ingredients can be just as effective and may have advantages over natural ingredients.

Popular Terms Used in Cosmetics

• "Natural" or "all-natural" often refers to ingredients derived from natural sources.
• "Organic" describes natural sourced ingredients grown without the use of pesticides or chemicals.
• "Cruelty-free" refers to products that are not tested on animals.
• "Vegan" refers to products that do not contain any animal ingredients or byproducts.
• "Gluten-free" refers to products that do not contain gluten, a protein found in wheat, rye, and triticale.
• "Hypoallergenic" and "non-comedogenic" refer to ingredients that are less likely to cause allergic reactions or clog pores.

Fragrance vs. Unscented

• Fragrance-free products don't have added fragrances, but may still have a scent from ingredients.
• Unscented products are formulated to have no smell, often using chemicals to mask or neutralize odors.

Cosmetics Ingredients

• Ingredients can be functional (do not affect skin appearance) or performance (cause changes in skin appearance).
• Functional ingredients include water, emollients, surfactants, and delivery agents.
• Performance ingredients include antioxidants, exfoliants, and moisturizers.

Test your knowledge of skincare products and ingredients, including basic chemistry, formulations, and benefits. Learn how to educate clients on product use and effectiveness.