Produk Kosmetik: Pengenalan

• Analysis of food, drugs, and cosmetics is covered in this presentation
• The presentation contains an introduction to cosmetic analysis and the basic components of cosmetic products

Cosmetic Products

• A cosmetic product is a pharmaceutical preparation made with a specific purpose
• This purpose could be to cleanse, maintain, or enhance appearance, or to alter appearance, but not to treat medical ailments
• Cosmetics are defined in Indonesia's Health Ministry Regulation No. 445/MenKes/Permenkes/1998
• Cosmetics are preparations or mixtures of ingredients ready for use on external parts of the body
• These external parts include parts of the epidermis, hair, nails, lips, external genitals, teeth, and oral cavity
• Uses include cleaning, adding appeal, changing appearance, protecting, maintaining good condition, or improving body odor
• Cosmetics are not intended to treat or cure diseases

Cosmetic Categorization

• Based on Indonesian Health Ministry regulations according to use and application location, cosmetics are divided into 13 categories including:
• Preparations for babies (baby oil, baby powder)
• Preparations for bathing (bath oil, bath capsules)
• Preparations for the eyes (mascara, eye shadow)
• Fragrances (perfume, toilet water)
• Hair preparations (hair dye, hairspray, curling products)
• Hair dyes (hair dye, hair bleach)
• Makeup (excluding eye makeup) like lipstick, rouge, and face powder
• Oral hygiene (mouthwash, toothpaste, breath freshener)
• Body hygiene (deodorant, feminine hygiene spray)
• Nail preparations (nail polish, nail cream, nail lotion)
• Shaving preparations (shaving soap, aftershave lotion)
• Skin care preparations (cleansers, moisturizers and protectives)
• Suntan and sunscreen preparations (suntan gel, sunscreen foundation)
• Nater YP et al. categorize cosmetics by use into the following:
• Body hygiene: soap, shampoo, cleansing products
• Makeup: make-up, hair color
• Fragrances: deodorant, perfume, aftershave
• Protection: sunscreen

Basic Cosmetic Product Components

• Cosmetic products are a combination of various ingredients with differing physical and chemical properties

Macro Nutrients

• Macro nutrients such as protein, lipids, vitamins, and minerals are discussed
• Protein is divided into group/source, i.e. animal and vegetable proteins
• It can be also divided into complete protein e.g. casein and albumin found in egg whites and milk
• Lipids are made of fatty acids, which can be saturated or unsaturated
• Simple or complex lipid hydrolysis yields lipid derivatives, e.g. steroids, fatty acids, and alcohols
• Cholesterol is a steroid compound that forms lipoproteins
• Vitamins are essential organic substances required in small amounts
• Vitamins are needed for normal health maintenance and growth, and are of two types i.e. fat and water-soluble vitamins
• Macro minerals are minerals needed in amounts greater than 100 mg per day
• Micro minerals are those needed in amounts less than 100 mg per day

Additional Substances

• Incidental substances (food adjuncts) include alkaloids (caffeine, nicotine, glycosides)
• Anti-nutrients (phytates, hemagglutinins, antitrypsin)
• Natural colors and natural aromas or flavorings may also be included
• Additives include preservatives (benzoates), stabilizers (lecithin, gums)
• Thickeners (CMC, starch), colorings (carotene, amaranth)
• Flavor enhancers (MSG, salt), and stimulants (caffeine) are found in cosmetics
• Metabolic substances such as alcohols, lactates, acetates, aflatoxins, and bongkrek acid are found in cosmetics

Food Quality

• Food quality is defined by Law of the Republic of Indonesia No. 7 of 1996
• It is based on food safety criteria, nutritional content, trade standards for food and beverages
• Nutrient content indicates the amount of energy and nutrients in food
• Nutritious food is capable of providing a high contribution to the adequacy and needs of energy and nutrients
• Food ingredient analysis includes physical, sensory, nutritional (direct and indirect), and chemical analyses

Bio-cosmetics

• Bio-cosmetics contain active biological substances usually derived from animals or plants
• Animal-derived active substances include placenta extract, embryo extract, cow amniotic fluid, cow serum, body fluid extracts, and collagen
• Plant extracts smooth and soften the skin, affect keratinization and epidermal hydration, and may help with skin lightening

Active Cosmetic Ingredients

• Active ingredients include placenta, embryo extract, collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, and alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)
• Other active ingredients include tretinoin, hydrogen peroxide/dioxide, hormones, and vitamins

Cosmetics Regulations

• Regulations include Ministry of Health Regulation RI No. 1175/Men.Kes/Per/VIII/2010 concerning Cosmetics Production Permits
• Regulation of the Head of the Food and Drug Supervisory Agency Number HK.03.1.23.12.11.10689 of 2011 covers the types of cosmetics that can be produced by cosmetic industries
• Decision of the Head of the Food and Drug Supervisory Agency Number HK.00.05.4.3870 of 2003 concerns guidelines for good cosmetic manufacturing
• Regulation of the Head of the Food and Drug Supervisory Agency Number HK.03.42.06.10.4556 of 2010 covers operational guidelines for good cosmetic manufacturing
• Ministry of Health Regulation RI Number 1176/Men.Kes/Per/VIII/2010 discusses cosmetic notifications
• Regulation of the Head of the Food and Drug Supervisory Agency Number HK.03.1.23.12.10.11983 of 2010 discusses criteria and procedures for submitting cosmetic notifications
• This regulation was amended by Regulation of the Head of the Food and Drug Supervisory Agency Number 34 of 2013
• Regulations for Cosmetic Production Permits are based on Ministry of Health Regulation RI No. 1175/Men.Kes/Per/VIII/2010
• Cosmetic industries must have a production permit to manufacture cosmetics
• Cosmetic industry production permits are divided into two classes, class A and B
• Class A can make all types of cosmetics
• Class B can make only certain types of cosmetics using simple technology
• Production permits have a validity of 5 years

Requirements for Cosmetic Industry Classes

• Class A industries must have a pharmacist as a person in charge
• Class A industries must have production facilities according to the products to be made
• Class A industries must be able to produce all forms and types of preparations
• Class A industries must have laboratory facilities and are required to implement Good Cosmetic Manufacturing Practices (CPKB)
• Class B industries must have at least a pharmacy technician as a person in charge
• Class B industries must have production facilities with simple technology that can produce the products
• Class B industries are prohibited from producing baby cosmetic preparations, antiseptics, anti-dandruff, skin lighteners and sunscreens
• Class B industries deal with cosmetic preparations with simple technology and are required to implement hygiene, sanitation and documentation

Types of products produced by class B cosmetic industries:

• Liquid form: Eau de Cologne, body fragrance, hair oil, facial cleanser, facial toner, astringent, skin refresher
• Viscous liquid: Bath soap, bath oil, foot care products, shampoo, conditioner, hair oil, hair & body cleanser, facial cleanser, scrub, massage oil, body & hand skin care
• Cream: Scrub, massage cream, hair cream bath
• Semi solid: Pomade
• Solid: Bath soap, bath salt, spices, scrub, mangir, cold powder
• Powder: Bath powder, scrub, mangir, body powder, deodorant, antiperspirant
• Suspension: Scrub, liquid powder, mangir