Ocean Waves and Wave Interference

Explore the characteristics of ocean waves, including different types of breaking waves such as plunging and spilling waves. Learn about wave interference and how waves can interact to form larger or smaller waves, as well as the phenomenon of rogue waves.

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Questions and Answers

What happens when the wavelength decreases but the period stays the same?

The wave becomes taller and approaches a 1:7 ratio of wavelength to height

What type of wave is characterized by steep slopes and breaks violently over reefs or sandbars?

Plunging wave

In wave interference, what type of interference occurs when waves align to reinforce each other?

Constructive interference

What causes waves to bend when different parts of the wave start moving at different speeds?

Wave refraction Signup and view all the answers

What is the phenomenon where water masses of different densities create waves that can travel down hundreds of feet?

Internal waves Signup and view all the answers

Which type of wave is characterized by sloshing back and forth of water in enclosed areas following some disturbance?

Seiche Signup and view all the answers

What defines deep water waves?

Waves with a wavelength greater than the water depth Signup and view all the answers

What happens to waves as they approach shallow water?

Their speed increases, and their wavelength decreases Signup and view all the answers

What differentiates plunging waves from spilling waves?

The curved crest in plunging waves and the smooth crest in spilling waves Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the phenomena where two wave crests meet and amplify each other?

Constructive interference Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following best describes wave orbits?

Circular motions in the water particles as waves pass Signup and view all the answers

What is the main difference between deep waves and shallow waves?

Deep waves move through water deeper than half the wavelength, while shallow waves move mostly through shallow water less than 1/20 of the wavelength. Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following factors influences wave development?

Wind strength, wind duration, and fetch Signup and view all the answers

What happens to waves as they approach shallow waters?

They interact with the bottom, change shape, and slow down. Signup and view all the answers

What defines the wave length of a wave?

The distance between two adjacent crests or troughs Signup and view all the answers

How does the interaction with the bottom affect waves approaching the shore?

It slows down the wave and changes its shape. Signup and view all the answers

What is the main characteristic of wave orbits?

Water moves in an orbital path and continues to deeper water until half the wavelength Signup and view all the answers

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