Ocean Waves and Wave Interference

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Questions and Answers

What happens when the wavelength decreases but the period stays the same?

  • The wave breaks at a 3:4 ratio of wave height to water depth
  • The wave becomes taller and approaches a 1:7 ratio of wavelength to height (correct)
  • The crest of the wave moves ahead of its base
  • The wave becomes wider and shallower

What type of wave is characterized by steep slopes and breaks violently over reefs or sandbars?

  • Spilling wave
  • Seiche
  • Rogue wave
  • Plunging wave (correct)

In wave interference, what type of interference occurs when waves align to reinforce each other?

  • Constructive interference (correct)
  • Destructive interference
  • Wave refraction
  • Wave diffraction

What causes waves to bend when different parts of the wave start moving at different speeds?

<p>Wave refraction (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the phenomenon where water masses of different densities create waves that can travel down hundreds of feet?

<p>Internal waves (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which type of wave is characterized by sloshing back and forth of water in enclosed areas following some disturbance?

<p>Seiche (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What defines deep water waves?

<p>Waves with a wavelength greater than the water depth (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to waves as they approach shallow water?

<p>Their speed increases, and their wavelength decreases (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What differentiates plunging waves from spilling waves?

<p>The curved crest in plunging waves and the smooth crest in spilling waves (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the phenomena where two wave crests meet and amplify each other?

<p>Constructive interference (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following best describes wave orbits?

<p>Circular motions in the water particles as waves pass (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the main difference between deep waves and shallow waves?

<p>Deep waves move through water deeper than half the wavelength, while shallow waves move mostly through shallow water less than 1/20 of the wavelength. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following factors influences wave development?

<p>Wind strength, wind duration, and fetch (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to waves as they approach shallow waters?

<p>They interact with the bottom, change shape, and slow down. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What defines the wave length of a wave?

<p>The distance between two adjacent crests or troughs (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How does the interaction with the bottom affect waves approaching the shore?

<p>It slows down the wave and changes its shape. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the main characteristic of wave orbits?

<p>Water moves in an orbital path and continues to deeper water until half the wavelength (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

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