29 Questions
What is an ocean wave?
A disturbance caused by energy moving through water mass
What represents the highest part of a wave?
Wave crest
Which forces disturb water to create ocean waves?
Wind, displacement, changes in atmospheric pressure
What is the dominant force trying to return the water surface to flat?
Surface tension & gravity
What is the simplest form of ocean waves?
Sinusoidal
Which factor affects the size of waves generated by the wind?
The strength of the wind
What does metocean refer to?
The combined effect of meteorology and oceanography
Which of the following is included in metocean condition?
Local surface wind and wind-generated local waves
How does temperature affect density, viscosity, and salinity in water?
Temperature affects all three properties
What does salinity refer to in the context of ocean water properties?
Average salt content in water
In the open sea, what is the average salinity percentage?
3.5%
What can differences in density in different layers of water with depth create?
Internal waves in deeper regions
What does the symbol 'L' represent in wave theory?
Wavelength
Which parameter represents the propagation speed of the wave crest?
Wave celerity
What is the reciprocal of period in wave theory?
Frequency
Which parameter represents the instantaneous elevation of the wave from the still water level?
Wave elevation
What does 'u' represent in wave theory?
Horizontal water particle velocity
Which parameter represents the instantaneous acceleration along y of a water particle?
Vertical water particle acceleration
What is the primary cause of tsunamis?
Underwater disturbances like earthquakes, landslides, or volcanic eruptions
Which of the following waves have a wavelength between 1-10 meters?
Swell
Which characteristic distinguishes swell from seas?
Swell waves are more regular and have well-defined crests and troughs
What is the typical wave period range for swell waves?
Greater than 10 seconds
Which of the following waves can reach heights of 40 meters or more?
Tsunami
What is the typical wavelength range for capillary waves?
Less than 2 cm
What type of wave theory does the given text describe?
Linear Wave Theory
Which statement about linear wave theory is correct?
It is an approximation of the Stokes Theory.
What is a requirement for linear wave theory to be applicable?
The waves must have equal crest and trough amplitudes.
Why is linear wave theory widely used, according to the text?
It is less mathematically complex than other wave theories.
For what type of waves is linear wave theory most accurate?
Low amplitude waves in deep water
Test your knowledge on metocean conditions which refer to the combined effect of meteorology and oceanography, including local surface wind, wind-generated local waves, swell, and surface currents.
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