Milady Standard Barbering Chapter 13

Shaving Techniques and Definitions

• Backhand Stroke: A stroke with the razor used in four out of 14 basic shave areas; optional for area 12.
• Close Shaving: Involves shaving against the grain during a second pass to achieve a smoother finish.
• Cutting Stroke: Correct angle of the blade while cutting facial hair with a straight razor.
• First Time Over Shave: Consists of a standard shave covering 14 facial areas, followed by a second pass.
• Freehand Stroke: A specific razor position employed in six of the shave areas (1, 3, 4, 8, 11, and 12).
• Neck Shave: Shaving occurs behind the ears, down the sides of the neck, and at the nape.
• Once Over Shave: A single lathering technique where strokes are made across the direction of hair growth.
• Reverse Backhand: Used by right-handed barbers for the left side of the neck and left-handed for the right side.
• Reverse Freehand: Specific stroke position used in four shave areas (5, 10, 13, and 14).
• Second Time Over Shave: A re-shave after the initial pass, using water to smooth any rough spots, considered a close shave.

Facial Hair Design

• Styptic Powder: Alum powder used to stop bleeding from minor cuts or nicks during shaving.
• Mustache Shapes:
  • Heavier looking mustaches complement larger features.
  • A medium-to-large mustache suits individuals with prominent noses.
  • A narrow to medium mustache is ideal for a long narrow face.
  • Pyramid-shaped mustaches suit those with extra-large mouths.
  • A medium short mustache works well with extra small mouths.
  • Smaller triangular mustaches fit individuals with small regular features.
  • Heavier handlebar mustaches work for those with a wide mouth and prominent upper lip.
  • Semi-square and heavier linear mustaches are advisable for balanced facial shapes.

Shaving Procedure and Safety

• Steps of Professional Shave: Includes draping, hot towel preparation, and steaming the face prior to shaving.
• Avoid Immediate Post-Shave: Deep cleansing facials should not be performed directly after shaving.
• Preparation: Shaving begins with softening the beard using hot towels.
• Client Condition: Do not proceed with the shave if the client presents with pustules or skin infections.

Skin and Hair Considerations

• Facial Hair Growth: Analyze hair growth patterns to determine the grain for an effective shave.
• Ingrown Hairs: Often a result of improper hair removal techniques, also known as pseudofolliculitis.
• Irritation Prevention: Stretching the skin too tightly or using hot towels on sensitive skin can lead to irritation.

Shaving Tools and Techniques

• Razor Position: Maintain a 30-degree angle to the skin surface for optimal cutting.
• Touch Method: Use light pressure for shaving to avoid excessive irritation.
• Shaving Movement: Employ shorter strokes around the mouth and tight areas.
• Massage and Moisturizing: Finish the shave by massaging moisturizer into the skin for hydration.

Hygiene and Disposal

• Sharps Disposal: Used razor blades should be discarded in designated sharps containers.
• Skin Moisture: Keep the skin moist during shaving to facilitate the shaving process.

Post-Care Guidelines

• Final Treatment: Complete shave services with hot towels and facial lotion for relaxation and skin care.
• Skin Type Consideration: Use pH balanced toners or fresheners for optimal post-shave treatment.
• Avoidance Rules: Do not stop short of shaving an area or repeatedly shave over the same spot to prevent irritation.