Hair Structure and Composition

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Questions and Answers

What is the function of the dermal papilla, a small, cone-shaped area located at the base of the hair follicle?

  • Anchors the hair bulb within the skin, preventing hair loss.
  • Provides a site for hair products to accumulate, enhancing their effectiveness.
  • Secretes sebum to lubricate the hair shaft, giving it shine.
  • Contains the blood and nerve supply that provides nutrients needed for hair growth. (correct)

How does the arrector pili muscle contribute to the piloerection response, commonly known as "goosebumps?":

  • By contracting, which pulls on the hair follicle, causing the hair to stand erect. (correct)
  • By relaxing, causing the hair follicle to widen and release heat.
  • By stimulating sebum production, which insulates the skin.
  • By increasing blood flow to the skin surface, creating a warming sensation.

Why is the cuticle layer, with its transparent, scale-like cells arranged like shingles, the most important layer of the hair?

  • It contains the melanin pigments that gives hair its color.
  • It is the innermost layer that provides insulation.
  • It serves as a barrier that protects the inner structure of the hair. (correct)
  • It provides strength, elasticity and contributes most of the hair's weight.

How does the cortex layer's melanin content directly influence hair's response to chemical treatments?

<p>Hair with less melanin processes faster due to decreased interference. (C)</p>
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Why is the medulla not always present in every strand of hair, and what characteristic of hair is most likely to lack a medulla?

<p>The medulla is present in most hair, but not always in fine hair. (D)</p>
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Why is understanding the composition of the hair shaft as a nonliving fiber of keratinized protein essential for hair care and chemical services?

<p>Because it provides insight into how chemical services and treatments affect the hair's structure. (C)</p>
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Why are peptide bonds crucial for the overall strength and integrity of the hair?

<p>They form the backbone of protein chains that make up the hair. (A)</p>
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Disulfide bonds are the strongest of the cross-links. How do chemical services like perming or relaxing permanently alter the hair's shape by manipulating these bonds?

<p>By breaking and reforming these bonds to create a new structural configuration. (A)</p>
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What is the primary importance of understanding the COHNS elements in the context of hair care and chemical services?

<p>They are the primary building blocks of hair. (D)</p>
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How does a hydrogen bond's response to environmental factors influence hair styling techniques and product selection?

<p>Hydrogen bonds allow for hair to be temporarily reshaped using water or heat. (B)</p>
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Why is understanding the role of salt bonds important when providing hair care services like perming or relaxing?

<p>Salt bonds are easily broken by changes in pH, which can be caused by chemical services, and this affects the hair's structure. (D)</p>
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How do eumelanin and pheomelanin interact to create the wide array of natural hair colors, and what determines the specific shade?

<p>The ratio of eumelanin to pheomelanin, along with the total amount of pigment, determines the final hair color. (A)</p>
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The shape of the hair strand. How does this impact styling and chemical service outcomes?

<p>Shape affects both styling options and the way chemical solutions are absorbed. (B)</p>
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Why does hair with low porosity often require more alkaline solutions during chemical services?

<p>More alkaline solutions help to open the cuticle layer, allowing better penetration of chemicals. (C)</p>
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What is the practical importance of understanding a client's hair elasticity before performing chemical services?

<p>Elasticity indicates the hair's ability to withstand stretching and potential damage from chemical treatments. (B)</p>
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How does the concept of a hair stream influence haircutting techniques, particularly when creating a uniform length or layered effect?

<p>Hair streams require careful attention to ensure even cutting, as hair may lie differently depending on the stream's direction. (C)</p>
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What is the potential outcome of overactive sebaceous glands, and how can this condition be managed?

<p>It results in oily hair and scalp, which may be managed by using appropriate cleansing techniques and products. (D)</p>
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Why is vellus hair important for regulating body temperature, and where is it typically found?

<p>Vellus hair facilitates the evaporation of perspiration and is found on areas not covered by terminal hair. (D)</p>
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Based on the average hair growth rate, how long would it take for a client to grow out six inches of hair, assuming no breakage or trimming?

<p>2 years (A)</p>
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What might a stylist recommend to a client experiencing alopecia areata to address both the physical and emotional aspects of the condition?

<p>A referral to a medical professional. (D)</p>
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If a client asks about options to address canities (gray hair), what factors should a stylist consider before recommending a course of action?

<p>The client's skin tone, preference for natural look versus full coverage, and hair's condition. (A)</p>
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Why is it important to identify pityriasis (dandruff) before performing a scalp massage?

<p>Scalp massage can spread the dandruff, potentially worsening the condition. (C)</p>
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How does malassezia cause dandruff, and what shampoo ingredients are effective in controlling its growth?

<p>Malassezia is a fungus that feeds on oils and results in increased cell turnover, manageable with antifungal ingredients like pyrithione. (A)</p>
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How should a cosmetologist differentiate between pityriasis capitis simplex and pityriasis steatoides (seborrheic dermatitis)?

<p>Pityriasis capitis simplex features dry, small flakes; pityriasis steatoides features greasy or waxy scales mixed with sebum. (A)</p>
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What are the main differences between tinea and seborrheic dermatitis?

<p>Tinea is a fungal infection causing scaly lesions; seborrheic dermatitis is an inflammatory condition with flaking scalp. (A)</p>
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Why is it important to distinguish a furuncle from other scalp disorders, and what immediate action should be taken if one is identified?

<p>Furuncles are contagious bacterial infections that require immediate referral to a physician. (A)</p>
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How does scabies manifest on the scalp, and what preventive measures can a cosmetologist take to avoid its transmission?

<p>Scabies shows up as intense itching and small bumps, preventable only by proper sanitation practices. (B)</p>
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What is the primary difference between a furuncle (boil) and a carbuncle, and why is it so important to distinguish between the two?

<p>A furuncle is a small, superficial infection, while a carbuncle is a larger, deeper infection that should get immediate medical attention. (D)</p>
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In hair design, how do lines positioned a constant distance apart create the illusion of width?

<p>They draw the eye horizontally, making the area seem broader. (C)</p>
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What is the effect of using vertical lines in a hairstyle, and how do they alter the perception of the face shape?

<p>Vertical lines make hairstyle appear longer and narrower. (C)</p>
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What is the visual impact of using curved, parallel lines in a hairstyle, and in what type of style are they commonly featured?

<p>They introduce gentle volume and flowing movement typically utilized in formal updos. (C)</p>
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How do contrasting lines create visual interest, and in what degree angle do they typically intersect?

<p>Contrasting lines produces a hard edge by joining horizontal and vertical lines; they intersect at a 90-degree angle. (A)</p>
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When evaluating a hairstyle, what is the significance of the space surrounding the form?

<p>It provides the overall impression and is a key element of the design. (A)</p>
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How does the choice of wave pattern contribute to the balance of facial features, and what pattern is most suitable for narrowing a round head shape?

<p>Smooth wave patters are the most suitable. (B)</p>
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Which structure is a small, cone-shaped elevation located at the base of the hair follicle that fits into the hair bulb?

<p>Dermal papilla (C)</p>
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Which structure is the tiny, involuntary muscle fiber in the skin inserted at the base of the hair follicle?

<p>Arrector pili (D)</p>
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Which hair layer consists of transparent, scalelike cells that look like shingles on a roof?

<p>Cuticle layer (B)</p>
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Which layer is the fibrous protein core formed by elongated cells containing melanin pigment?

<p>Cortex layer (D)</p>
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The medulla, the innermost layer of the hair, is composed of cells that are:

<p>Round (A)</p>
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What is the hair shaft that emerges from the scalp composed of?

<p>Keratinized protein (D)</p>
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What type of chemical bonds hold together amino acid molecules?

<p>Peptide bonds (B)</p>
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What are the three different types of cross-links that form bonds between the polypeptide chains in the cortex?

<p>Hydrogen, salt, and disulfide bonds (A)</p>
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What are the five major elements found in skin, hair, and nails often referred to as?

<p>COHNS elements (A)</p>
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A weak, temporary side bond easily broken by water or heat is which type of bond?

<p>Hydrogen bond (D)</p>
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A temporary side bond between adjacent polypeptide chains that is broken by changes in pH is which type of bond?

<p>Salt bond (B)</p>
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Which type of melanin provides brown or black color to hair?

<p>Eumelanin (D)</p>
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Which term describes the shape of the hair strand?

<p>Wave pattern (B)</p>
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Chemical services performed on hair with low porosity often require solutions that are:

<p>More alkaline (A)</p>
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The ability of hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking is referred to as:

<p>Elasticity (C)</p>
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Hair flowing in the same direction, resulting from follicles sloping in the same direction, forms a:

<p>Hair stream (C)</p>
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Oily hair and scalp are caused by improper washing or overactive:

<p>Sebaceous glands (A)</p>
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The short, fine, and downy hair that helps in the efficient evaporation of perspiration is:

<p>Vellus hair (B)</p>
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What is the average growth of healthy scalp hair per month?

<p>1/4 inch per month (A)</p>
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The sudden falling out of hair in round patches or baldness in spots is known as:

<p>Alopecia areata (D)</p>
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What is the technical term for gray hair?

<p>Canities (C)</p>
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What is the medical term used to describe dandruff?

<p>Pityriasis (A)</p>
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Current research confirms that dandruff is the result of a fungus called:

<p>Malassezia (B)</p>
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A severe type of dandruff characterized by an accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales mixed with sebum is:

<p>Pityriasis steatoides (B)</p>
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Tinea is characterized by itching scales and sometimes painful circular lesions and is caused by:

<p>Fungal organisms (D)</p>
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An acute, localized bacterial infection of the hair follicle that produces constant pain is a:

<p>Furuncle (boil) (B)</p>
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A highly contagious skin disease caused by a parasite called a mite is:

<p>Scabies (A)</p>
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A carbuncle is an inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue caused by:

<p>Staphylococci (C)</p>
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Which type of fungal infection is characterized by red papules or spots at the opening of the hair follicle?

<p>Tinea capitis (B)</p>
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Lines a constant distance apart in the same direction that are used to create width in a hair design are:

<p>Horizontal lines (D)</p>
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What effect does a vertical line have on a hairstyle?

<p>Vertical line (A)</p>
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An example of a style using curved, parallel lines that creates interest in the design is a:

<p>Finger wave style (C)</p>
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Contrasting lines are horizontal and vertical lines that create a hard edge and form what degree angle?

<p>90-degree angle (D)</p>
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The wave pattern used to accentuate the face and narrow a round head shape should be:

<p>Smooth (C)</p>
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Creating a very bold dramatic accent in a hairstyle can be achieved with:

<p>Bold, dramatic accent (D)</p>
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Colors that recede or move in toward the head, creating the illusion of less volume are:

<p>Cooler colors (C)</p>
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To draw a line in a hairstyle in the direction you want the eye to travel, use a:

<p>Light color (D)</p>
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The comparative relationship in scale of one thing to another in hair design is called:

<p>Proportion (B)</p>
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Establishing equal or appropriate proportions to create symmetry in a design is called:

<p>Balance (C)</p>
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How does the structure of the cuticle layer contribute primarily to its protective function for the hair?

<p>Its transparent, scale-like cells, arranged like shingles, provide a protective barrier. (B)</p>
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What is the significance of the arrangement of cells in the medulla, the innermost layer of the hair shaft?

<p>The arrangement of cells contributes to hair texture and may be absent in fine/naturally blonde hair. (D)</p>
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What implications does the presence of keratinized protein in the hair shaft have for chemical services?

<p>It allows for the hair to be easily manipulated and reshaped, enabling chemical reformations. (D)</p>
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How would altering peptide bonds impact the overall structure of the hair?

<p>The hair's tensile strength would be compromised, leading to damage. (C)</p>
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Which process exemplifies how manipulating disulfide bonds can permanently alter hair's shape and texture?

<p>Performing a perm. (D)</p>
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Why does an understanding of the COHNS elements (Carbon, Oxygen, Hydrogen, Nitrogen, and Sulfur) give insight into hair?

<p>It relates the fundamental components of hair to its response to treatments. (D)</p>
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How do hydrogen bonds impact hair's response to humidity?

<p>Hydrogen bonds weaken with humidity, causing hair to lose its style and become frizzy. (B)</p>
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In hair care services, how can manipulating salt bonds affect the outcome of a perm?

<p>Minimizing stress on salt bonds helps maintain the hair's integrity during the perming process. (D)</p>
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How does the ratio of eumelanin to pheomelanin influence hair's color when undergoing a lightening process?

<p>Higher eumelanin requires the use of stronger lightening agents to achieve the desired color change. (A)</p>
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How does knowing the hair's shape, whether straight, wavy, or curly, inform a stylist's approach to hair cutting?

<p>It helps predict how the hair will fall and distribute weight, affecting the final shape. (D)</p>
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During chemical services, why does understanding hair porosity guide product selection and application techniques?

<p>It helps predict how evenly the hair will absorb and retain products, affecting processing time and results. (B)</p>
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How can a hair stylist determine the elasticity of the hair, and what does this indicate about the hair's health?

<p>By stretching a strand to see how far it extends and returns; elasticity indicates hair health and strength. (C)</p>
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How would a stylist address a client's concerns about hair that resists styling, seemingly defying gravity?

<p>Explain the characteristics of a hair stream and adapt the haircut to work with the natural flow. (B)</p>
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What course of action is most appropriate for a client experiencing an overproduction of sebum on the scalp?

<p>Recommending products designed to balance oil production, alongside gentle cleansing techniques. (B)</p>
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In what scenario is the presence of vellus hair most functionally significant?

<p>Throughout rigorous physical activity, aiding thermal regulation via improved perspiration evaporation. (C)</p>
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How does a cosmetologist distinguish pityriasis steatoides from pityriasis capitis simplex?

<p>By the adherence of scales; steatoides features large, oily scales, while capitis simplex presents dry, small scales. (C)</p>
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What are some key differences that sets Tinea apart from seborrheic dermatitis?

<p>Tinea typically involves circular lesions and is caused by a fungal infection, while seborrheic dermatitis is due to inflammation. (C)</p>
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What immediate action should be taken if a cosmetologist notices a furuncle (boil) on a client's scalp?

<p>Refrain from any service and advise the client to seek medical evaluation. (A)</p>
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How is scabies likely to present on the scalp, and what is the primary concern for a cosmetologist?

<p>Scabies manifests as clusters of small red bumps and intense itching, transmission. (B)</p>
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How does a hair stylist distinguish between a furuncle and carbuncle and why is that distinction important?

<p>A furuncle is one boil that is small while a carbuncle is very large cluster; carbuncles require medical attention. (A)</p>
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Flashcards

Dermal Papilla

Small, cone-shaped area at the base of the hair follicle that fits into the hair bulb.

Arrector Pili

Tiny, involuntary muscle fiber in the skin inserted in the base of the hair follicle.

Cuticle Layer

Outermost layer of the hair consisting of transparent, scalelike cells.

Cortex Layer

Fibrous protein core formed by elongated cells containing melanin pigment.

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Medulla Layer

Innermost layer of the hair, composed of round cells.

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Hair Shaft

Nonliving fiber composed of keratinized protein.

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Peptide Bonds

Chemical bonds that hold together amino acid molecules.

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Cross-Links in Cortex

Hydrogen, salt, and disulfide bonds.

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COHNS Elements

Carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur

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Hydrogen Bond

Weak, temporary side bond easily broken by water or heat.

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Salt Bond

Temporary side bond broken by changes in pH.

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Eumelanin

Melanin that provides brown or black color to hair.

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Wave Pattern

Shape of the hair strand.

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Low Porosity Hair

Requires a more alkaline solution to raise cuticle.

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Hair Elasticity

Ability of hair to stretch and return to its original length.

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Hair Stream

Hair flowing in the same direction due to follicle slope.

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Oily Hair/Scalp Cause

Overactive sebaceous glands.

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Vellus Hair

Short, fine, downy hair for perspiration evaporation.

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Average Hair Growth

About 1/2 inch per month.

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Alopecia Areata

Sudden hair falling out in round patches or spots.

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Canities

Technical term for gray hair.

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Pityriasis

Medical term for dandruff.

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Malassezia

Fungus that causes dandruff.

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Pityriasis Steatoides

Severe dandruff with greasy or waxy scales.

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Tinea

Itching scales and circular lesions caused by fungal organisms.

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Furuncle (Boil)

Acute, localized bacterial infection of a hair follicle.

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Scabies

Contagious skin disease caused by a parasite called a mite.

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Carbuncle

Inflammation of subcutaneous tissue caused by staphylococci.

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Low Porosity Hair

Solution that is more alkaline

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Hair Stream

Hair flowing in the same direction due to follicle slope.

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Oily Hair/Scalp Cause

Overactive sebaceous glands.

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Vellus Hair

Short, fine, downy hair for perspiration evaporation.

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Canities

Technical term for gray hair.

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Malassezia

Fungus that causes dandruff.

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Furuncle (Boil)

Acute, localized bacterial infection of a hair follicle.

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Tinea Capitis

Fungal infection with red papules at the hair follicle opening.

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Horizontal Lines

Lines creating width in hair design.

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Vertical Lines

Lines that make a hairstyle appear longer and narrower.

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Curved, Parallel Lines

Finger wave style

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Contrasting Lines

Horizontal and vertical lines creating a hard edge.

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Space

Area surrounding the form

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Smooth Wave Pattern

Wave pattern to narrow a round head shape.

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Repeated Color Lines

Creates a bold, dramatic accent.

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Cooler Colors

Colors that create the illusion of less volume.

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Guiding the Eye

Use a light color.

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Proportion

Comparative relationship in scale.

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Balance

Establishing equal or appropriate proportions.

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Rhythm

Regular pulsation or recurrent movement pattern.

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Harmony

Holds all the elements of design together.

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Facial Shape Determined By

Chin line

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Curved Part Use

Receding hairline

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Client w/ Infectious Disease

Should be referred to a physician

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Hair Drying Shampoo

High-pH shampoo

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Classifies As Alkaline

Hydrogen

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Water Purification

Destillation

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Water is chemically softened

Soft Water

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Most Shampoos

Water

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Surfacant molecule is

Hydrophilic

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Lipophilic Tail

Oil-Attracting

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Acidic Ingredients

Clarifying Shampoos

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Special Drugs

Medicated Shampoos

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Never be brushed before this

Chemical Service

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Don't Massage

Abrasions

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Maintain Correct

Posture

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Monitored For

Temperature Only

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Small Shampoo Quantity

Front hairline

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High-Frequency Current

Alcohol

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Hair Growth

Malassezia

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Basic color pigments

Color-enhancing

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Surface on the head

Reference points

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Used To Establish

Head forms

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Accomplished By Undestanding

Reference points

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Change In

Head Shape

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Hair Hangs

Gravity

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Nape Area

Neckline

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Where Does it ENd!

Top Area

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Two lines

Angle

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Layers haircuts are

Vertical

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Creates What?

Movement

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Described in?

Degrees

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Creating Subsections

Parting

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Building Weight in a Haircut

Below 90 degrees

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Determines Length

Guideline

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Subsection of hair is?

Traveling Guide

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Graduated & Layered Haricuts

Over-direction

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Offering Professional Advice

Client Consultation

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Close Tapers

Barber Comb

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Holding A Subsection

Tension

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Study Notes

  • A small, cone-shaped area at the base of the hair follicle fitting into the hair bulb is the dermal papilla.
  • The arrector pili is the tiny, involuntary muscle fiber in the skin inserted at the base of the hair follicle.
  • The cuticle layer consists of transparent, scalelike cells that look like shingles on a roof.
  • The cortex layer is the fibrous protein core formed by elongated cells containing melanin pigment.
  • The medulla, the innermost layer of the hair, is composed of round cells.
  • The hair shaft that emerges from the scalp is a nonliving fiber composed of keratinized protein.
  • Peptide bonds are the chemical bonds that hold together amino acid molecules.
  • Hydrogen, salt, and disulfide bonds are the three different types of cross-links that form bonds between polypeptide chains in the cortex.
  • The five major elements found in skin, hair, and nails are often referred to as the COHNS elements.
  • A weak, temporary side bond that is easily broken by water and heat is a hydrogen bond.
  • A temporary side bond between adjacent polypeptide chains that is broken by changes in pH is a salt bond.
  • Eumelanin is the melanin that provides brown or black color to hair.
  • The term that describes the shape of the hair strand is the wave pattern.
  • Chemical services performed on hair with low porosity require a solution that is more alkaline.
  • The ability of hair to stretch and return to its original length without breaking is referred to as hair elasticity.
  • Hair flowing in the same direction, the result of follicles sloping in the same direction form a hair stream.
  • Oily hair and scalp are caused by improper washing or overactive sebaceous glands.
  • The short, fine, and downy hair that helps in the efficient evaporation of perspiration is vellus hair.
  • The average growth of healthy scalp hair is about 1/2 inch per month.
  • The sudden falling out of hair in round patches or baldness in spots is alopecia areata.
  • The technical term for gray hair is canities.
  • The medical term that is used to describe dandruff is pityriasis.
  • Current research confirms that dandruff is the result of a fungus called malassezia.
  • A severe type of dandruff characterized by an accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales mixed with sebum is pityriasis steatoides.
  • Tinea is characterized by itching scales and sometimes painful circular lesions and is caused by fungal organisms.
  • An acute, localized bacterial infection of the hair follicle that produces constant pain is a furuncle (boil).
  • A highly contagious skin disease caused by a parasite called a mite is scabies.
  • A carbuncle is an inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue caused by staphylococci.
  • A type of fungal infection that is characterized by red papules or spots at the opening of the hair follicle is tinea capitis.
  • Lines a constant distance apart in the same direction that are used to create width in a hair design are horizontal lines.
  • The type of line used to make a hairstyle appear longer and narrower is a vertical line.
  • An example of a style using curved, parallel lines that creates interest in the design is a finger wave style.
  • Contrasting lines are horizontal and vertical lines that create a hard edge and form a 90-degree angle.
  • The area surrounding the form is space.
  • The wave pattern used to accentuate the face and narrow a round head shape should be smooth.
  • A single line of color, or a series of repeated lines, creates a bold, dramatic accent.
  • Colors that recede or move in toward the head, creating the illusion of less volume are cooler colors.
  • To draw a line in a hairstyle in the direction you want the eye to travel, use a light color.
  • The comparative relationship in scale of one thing to another in hair design is called proportion.
  • Establishing equal or appropriate proportions to create symmetry in a design is called balance.
  • The regular pulsation or recurrent pattern of movement in a design is the rhythm.
  • The principle of hair design that holds all the elements of design together is harmony.
  • A client's facial shape is determined by the position and prominence of the facial bones.
  • A curved part is used for a high forehead or receding hairline.
  • Any client with an infectious disease should not be treated and should be referred to a physician.
  • Shampoo that can leave the hair dry and brittle and cause fading in color-treated hair is high-pH shampoo.
  • Products are classified as either an alkaline solution or an acidic solution by measuring the amount of hydrogen.
  • The water purification process used in the manufacture of cosmetics where water is heated to a vapor then collected as a liquid is distillation.
  • Water that is chemically softened and allows soaps and shampoos to lather freely is soft water.
  • The main ingredient of most shampoos is water.
  • The water-attracting head of the surfactant molecule is hydrophilic.
  • The lipophilic tail of a surfactant molecule is considered to be oil attracting.
  • Shampoos containing acidic ingredients that can cut through product buildup on the hair are clarifying shampoos.
  • Shampoos that contain special chemicals or drugs that are effective in reducing excessive dandruff or relieving other scalp conditions are medicated shampoos.
  • The hair should never be brushed prior to a chemical service.
  • Do not massage or manipulate a client's scalp if there is a presence of abrasions.
  • To prevent fatigue, muscle aches, and physical problems when performing a shampoo, maintain correct posture.
  • During the shampoo procedure, the water should be monitored for temperature and volume.
  • During the shampoo procedure, apply small quantities of shampoo to the hair beginning at the front hairline.
  • Do not use high-frequency current on hair treated with tonics or lotions that contain alcohol.
  • Antidandruff shampoos and conditioners contain antifungal agents that suppress the growth of malassezia.
  • Shampoos that are created by combining the surfactant base with basic color pigments are color-enhancing.
  • Surfaces on the head where the head changes, such as the ears, jawline, and occipital bone, are referred to as reference points.
  • Reference points in a haircut are used to establish design lines.
  • Achieving balance within a design can be accomplished by understanding the head shape and reference points.
  • The location of the four corners signals a change in the head shape.
  • Hair that grows below the parietal, or crest, hangs because of weight.
  • The nape area is defined as the area at the back part of the neck and consists of the hair below the occipital bone.
  • The area that begins at the apex and ends at the front corners and is located by placing a comb on top of the head so that the middle of the comb is balanced is the top area.
  • The space between two lines or surfaces that intersect at a given point is an angle.
  • The straight lines used to remove weight and create graduated or layered haircuts are vertical.
  • Diagonal lines in a haircut blend long layers into short layers and create movement.
  • Elevation creates graduation and layers and is usually described in degrees.
  • The line dividing hair at the scalp, separating one section from another, creating subsections is a parting.
  • When you are building weight in a haircut, the hair should be held below 90 degrees.
  • A section of hair that determines the length the hair will be cut is the guideline.
  • The guideline where a small slice of a previous subsection is moved to the next position and becomes the new guideline is a traveling guide.
  • In creating a length increase in the design of graduated and layered haircuts, the technique to use is over-direction.
  • The conversation where the practitioner offers professional advice and suggestions to a client is the client consultation.
  • The comb used for close tapers on the nape and sides and when using a scissor-over-comb technique is a barber comb.
  • The amount of pressure applied when combing or holding a subsection during a haircut is called tension.
  • When cutting hair, a general rule of thumb is to stand or sit directly in front of the area you are cutting and to keep your body weight centered.
  • When cutting with a vertical or diagonal cutting line, the best way to maintain control of the subsection is to cut palm-to-palm.
  • A one-length haircut where all the hair comes to one hanging length is also known as a blunt cut.
  • Haircuts that generally have less weight than graduated haircuts are layered cuts.
  • A basic haircut where the hair is cut at a 180-degree angle is the long-layered cut.
  • In general, a razor should not be used on curly hair as it weakens the cuticle.
  • The process of removing excess bulk without shortening hair length is texturizing.
  • Electric or battery-operated tools that cut the hair by using two moving blades held in place by a metal plate with teeth are clippers.
  • The technique that allows you to cut the hair very close to the scalp and create a flat-top or square shape is clipper-over-comb.
  • In the finger wave procedure, pinching or pushing a ridge with your fingers creates firm ridges.
  • The stationary foundation of a curl that is also the area closest to the scalp is called the base.
  • The type of curl that is placed completely off base and allows for the greatest mobility is the full-stem curl.
  • Curls formed in the same direction as the movements of the hands of a clock are known as clockwise curls.
  • Forcing hair between the thumb and the back of the comb to create tension is called ribboning.
  • Pin curls sliced from a shaping and formed without lifting the hair from the head are referred to as carved curls.
  • Two rows of ridge curls on the side of a head are called skip waves.
  • The panel of hair on which a roller is placed is called the base.
  • For a roller set where the least amount of volume is desired, rollers should be placed completely off the base.
  • The point where curls of opposite directions meet forming a recessed area is called indentation.
  • A styling technique used to keep curly hair smooth and straight while retaining shape is wrapping.
  • A blow-dryer attachment used to accentuate the textural definition in a style is a diffuser.
  • Large, flat brushes with staggered pin patterns used for mid-to-longer hair length are paddle brushes.
  • Combs that are used for thermal curling should be made of hard rubber.
  • As a rule of thumb, coarse and gray hair can withstand more heat than fine hair.
  • The process of temporarily straightening extremely curly hair by means of a heated comb is called hair pressing.
  • The type of hair pressing service that removes 50 to 60 percent of the curl is accomplished with a soft press.
  • The thermal press that removes 100 percent of the curl and is accomplished by applying the comb twice on each side of the hair is hard press.
  • The hair type that is very resistant to hair pressing and requires more heat and pressure is wiry/curly.
  • Good-quality pressing combs are constructed of either stainless steel or brass.
  • Pressing combs with more space between the teeth produce a coarse press.
  • A pressing comb with less space between the teeth produces a smooth press.
  • After heating a pressing comb, the temperature of the comb should be tested using light paper.
  • When executing an updo, inspect the shape from every angle to make sure it is well balanced and proportioned.
  • The process of permanently altering the natural wave pattern of hair is described as chemical texture services.
  • To change the natural wave pattern of hair, the side bonds of the cortex layer of hair must be broken.
  • The cortex layer of the hair structure is responsible for the hair's strength and elasticity.
  • The term used to measure the hydrogen ions in a solution that determine its alkalinity or acidity is potential hydrogen.
  • Chemical hair texturizers temporarily raise the pH of the hair in order to soften and swell the shaft.
  • Chains that are formed by peptide bonds that are linked together are polypeptide.
  • Long, coiled, polypeptide chains that make up approximately 97 percent of the hair's structure are keratin proteins.
  • Chemical-based side bonds that are formed when two sulfur-type chains are joined together are disulfide bonds.
  • Hydrogen bonds are easily broken by water or heat and are re-formed when the hair is dried.
  • Chemical services should not be performed if the scalp analysis shows any signs of abrasions and disorders.
  • The term used to describe the diameter of a single strand of hair is texture.
  • Chemical services performed on overly porous hair require solutions that are low pH.
  • More than any other single factor, elasticity determines the ability of the hair to hold a curl.
  • In permanent waving, the size of the curl is determined by the rod size.
  • Permanent wave rods that produce a tighter curl in the center and looser curl on either side of the strand are concave rods.
  • The wrapping technique that provides the most control over hair ends and keeps them evenly distributed over the entire length of the rods is a double flat wrap.
  • All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into base sections.
  • Rod direction is the wrapping technique.
  • In the croquignole method of wrapping, the hair is wound from ends to scalp.
  • In permanent waving, the reduction reaction is due to the addition of hydrogen.
  • The main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is ammonium thioglycolate.
  • Most alkaline permanent waves have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6.
  • An acid with a low pH that is the primary reducing agent in acid waves is glyceryl monothioglycolate.
  • All acid waves have three components consisting of the waving lotion, neutralizer, and activator.
  • Waves that are activated from an outside heat source are considered endothermic.
  • Two important functions performed during the neutralization process are deactivating the solution and rebuilding disulfide bonds.
  • In a basic perm wrap, all rods within a panel move in the same direction, and the base control is on base.
  • The double rod technique is also called the piggyback wrap.
  • The process of rearranging the basic structure of extremely curly hair into a straighter or smoother form is chemical hair relaxing.
  • Hydroxide relaxers remove one atom of sulfur from a disulfide bond, converting it into a lanthionine bond.
  • The application of a sodium hydroxide relaxer causes the hair to swell and soften.
  • The neutralizing of remaining hydroxide ions to lower the pH of the hair and scalp after a relaxer requires a normalizing lotion.
  • Relaxers that contain only one component and are used without mixing are metal hydroxide relaxers.
  • Sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called lye relaxers.
  • Relaxers that contain two components and must be mixed immediately prior to use are guanidine hydroxide relaxers.
  • Conditioners with an acidic pH that condition and restore the natural pH of hair after a relaxer but prior to shampooing are normalizing lotions.
  • After applying a relaxer, periodic strand tests are performed to determine processing time.
  • During a relaxer strand test, hair pressed with the back of the comb, fingers, or applicator brush that continues to curl is insufficiently relaxed.
  • The application for chemical relaxers should be started in the most resistant area, usually the back of head.
  • Hair that is treated with hydroxide relaxers must not be treated with thio relaxers.
  • The blonding process where the hair is prelightened then toned with a toner or glaze is a double-process color.
  • The natural coloring pigment found in the cortex layer of the hair is melanin.
  • Hair texture is determined by the diameter of individual hair strands.
  • The ability of the hair to absorb liquids is referred to as hair porosity.
  • The darkest hair colors in the Level System are identified as being a level 1.
  • The highlight or the hue of color seen in the hair is referred to as tone.
  • Colors that absorb more light and can look darker than their actual level are cool tones.
  • Tones can be described as cool, warm, and neutral.
  • The system used for understanding color relationships is the color wheel.
  • The primary color that provides the most depth or darkness is blue.
  • Adding the primary color red to yellow colors will cause them to appear darker.
  • A color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors is a secondary color.
  • A color achieved by mixing equal parts of a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel is a tertiary color.
  • Natural looking hair color is made up of a combination of primary and secondary colors.
  • Primary and secondary colors that are positioned opposite each on the color wheel are complementary colors.
  • Hair coloring products fall into one of how many categories is four.
  • The chemical process involving the diffusion of natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair is hair lightening.
  • As part of their composition, all permanent hair coloring products and lighteners contain both a developer and an alkalizing ingredient.
  • Coloring products that have a coating action on the hair and are removed by shampooing are temporary colors.
  • The coloring products that are regarded as the best for covering gray hair are permanent hair coloring.
  • Dye precursors that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent tint molecules are also referred to as aniline derivatives.
  • Natural, vegetable, and metallic hair colors are also known as gradual colors.
  • Hair coloring products that change color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air creating a dull appearance contain metallic salts.
  • When less lightening is desired to enhance a client's natural hair color, the standard volume used with permanent hair color is 20 volume.
  • Chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural pigment are hair lighteners.
  • In a one-step color service, 40 volume hydrogen peroxide is used to provide maximum lift.
  • Hydrogen peroxide mixed into a lightener formula creates a chemical process called oxidation.
  • Hair coloring products that are used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors are toners.
  • Clients requesting chemical services with hair in a questionable condition should be required to sign a release statement.
  • When applying color using the brush-and-bowl method, the mixing bowl should be nonmetallic.
  • Before performing a coloring service with an aniline derivative product, the client must have a patch test.
  • The U.S. Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act prescribes that a predisposition test be given 24 to 48 hours prior to application.
  • A preliminary test performed to determine how hair will react to a color formula is a strand test.
  • The hair coloring process that lightens and colors hair in a single application is a single-process hair coloring.
  • Examples of single-process permanent coloring applications are virgin color applications and color retouch applications.
  • Overlapping hair color on previously tinted hair can cause breakage and create a visible line of demarcation.
  • The two-step blonding process is also known as double-process coloring.
  • A predisposition test is generally conducted behind the ear or on the inner forearm.
  • Lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp are powder lighteners.
  • Lighteners that have a thicker consistency and give more control during scalp application are cream lighteners.
  • The technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color is called lowlighting.
  • In the weaving technique, selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion.
  • The technique using a free-form of painting hair lightener directly on clean, styled hair is baliage.
  • Specialized preparations designed to equalize hair porosity and deposit a base color in one application are fillers.
  • Shampoo added to a remaining color formula to brighten hair color before rinsing is a soap cap.
  • Never apply hair color to a client if the scalp has any obvious signs of abrasions.

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