Ass #14 - Fancy Cut Diamonds
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Questions and Answers

What does a large and dark bow-tie indicate about a diamond's appearance?

  • It may enhance the diamond's brilliance.
  • It significantly affects the diamond's appearance and value. (correct)
  • It has no effect on appearance.
  • It can be graded as 'slight'.
  • How do graders assess the pavilion bulge of a diamond?

  • By measuring the weight of the stone.
  • Without any form of magnification.
  • By comparing it to the crown height with the naked eye.
  • Using 10x magnification to observe the stone's profile. (correct)
  • What is the range for a well-proportioned pavilion in relation to crown height?

  • 1.0 to 3.0 times the depth of the crown.
  • 2.5 to 4.5 times the depth of the crown. (correct)
  • 1.5 to 2.0 times the depth of the crown.
  • 4.5 to 6.0 times the depth of the crown.
  • What is the primary method for calculating the Total Depth Percentage for fancy shapes?

    <p>Using the stone’s width instead of average girdle diameter. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    When judging culet size in fancy cuts, what is primarily considered?

    <p>The width of the culet. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What consequence can pavilion bulge have on a diamond?

    <p>It can lead to increased light leakage. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What aspect of a diamond's appearance do graders assess to determine the bow-tie effect?

    <p>Face-up appearance under normal lighting. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What does symmetry assessment focus on while grading diamonds?

    <p>Assessing each diamond individually by comparing its parts to the whole. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a characteristic feature of a baguette diamond?

    <p>It has a small, four-sided, step-cut design. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What aspect of the diamond grading process involves assessing the angle of the crown?

    <p>Assessing crown angle. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How is the table percentage for fancy shapes calculated?

    <p>Table Size ÷ Stone Width × 100 (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What feature does the culet size of a diamond influence?

    <p>The durability of the diamond. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    In which type of cut is a trapeze-shaped step cut most commonly classified?

    <p>As a fancy cut. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is primarily assessed by graders when evaluating the bow tie phenomenon in fancy cuts?

    <p>Reflections and light performance. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a typical characteristic of large table sizes in fancy cuts?

    <p>They often exceed 80 percent. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which grading aspect is not common to both fancy cuts and round brilliants?

    <p>Table percentage calculation. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is generally considered when grading the girdle in fancy cuts?

    <p>Thickness and condition. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What commonly attracts people to fancy cuts of diamonds?

    <p>Emotional and practical reasons. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which term describes the curved area on the side of a pear, marquise, heart, or oval diamond where the width is measured?

    <p>Belly (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the name of the V-shaped indentation between the lobes of a heart-shaped diamond?

    <p>Cleft (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What component of the diamond affects its durability when using French tips?

    <p>Belly facet (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    In diamond grading, what is the name of the area at the bottom of certain fancy cuts where pavilion facets meet?

    <p>Keel line (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which cutting style is characterized by having additional facets placed symmetrically on a brilliant cut diamond?

    <p>Modified brilliant (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What do graders typically evaluate for fancy cut diamonds?

    <p>Color and symmetry (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What directly influences the appeal of a fashioned diamond when viewed face-up?

    <p>Face-up shape (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which feature of fancy cuts does not have a universal standard of beauty, as it is determined mostly by personal taste?

    <p>Shape (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which component is NOT a special name associated with the shape components of fancy cuts?

    <p>Crown (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is typically assessed in a total depth percentage calculation for fancy cut diamonds?

    <p>Ratio of the diamond's height to its table diameter (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What characteristic is evaluated to assess the appeal of marquises, pears, and hearts with regards to wing shape?

    <p>Flat wings and Undefined Points (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which statement about length-to-width ratio is true?

    <p>It uses a formula where length is divided by width. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a potential issue with a culet placement during symmetry evaluation?

    <p>A high or low culet can detract from the stone’s appearance. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What aspect of fancy cuts is evaluated using a 10x loupe?

    <p>Symmetry variations and their visibility (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What effect can a substantial bow tie have on a diamond's appearance?

    <p>Creates a shadow effect in the center (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    In determining culet size, which option represents a desirable feature in a diamond?

    <p>A smaller culet size to enhance the diamond's sparkle (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    In the context of total depth percentage, what does a lower ratio indicate?

    <p>The diamond could have shallow proportions. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a key indicator of depth percentage in diamonds?

    <p>The ratio of crown height to pavilion depth (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which finish grade reflects the highest quality for fancy-cut diamonds?

    <p>Excellent (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Why is the culet size important in the assessment of a diamond?

    <p>It influences light performance and visual appeal (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a significant consideration when grading the appeal of shape in fancy cuts?

    <p>Presence of bulged wings (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What depth percentage range is generally considered ideal for a round brilliant diamond?

    <p>50% - 60% (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What do fancy cut diamond buyers consider most important before making a purchase?

    <p>Personal inspection of the stones (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What can cause a fancy cut diamond's symmetry to be rated poorly?

    <p>Visible asymmetry between wings (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Flashcards

    Total Depth Percentage

    Calculated by dividing the stone's depth by its width and multiplying by 100.

    Pavilion Depth

    Gem's pavilion depth evaluated visually and compared to crown height.

    Bow Tie

    A dark feature (light gray-black) visible on the diamond's face. Darker = more noticeable.

    Pavilion Bulge

    Uneven arc from girdle to culet, impacting light leakage & stone setting.

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    Culet Size

    Fancy cuts judged by width; Round brilliants are assessed by viewing through table.

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    Shape Appeal

    Diamond's appearance compared to similar shapes and cuts.

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    Symmetry

    Diamond parts equally proportionate to the whole.

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    Girdle Thickness

    Girdle considered when it's not scalloped.

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    NC

    Narrow corners on shapes with beveled corners, indicating a more delicate appearance.

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    WC

    Wide corners on shapes with beveled corners, providing a more robust look.

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    HS

    High shoulders on pears and ovals, contributing to a more elegant overall shape.

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    FW

    Flat wings on marquises, pears, and hearts, creating a more elongated silhouette.

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    BW

    Bulged wings on marquises, pears, and hearts, adding a sense of fullness and volume.

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    UP

    Undefined points on marquises, pears, and hearts, offering a less structured look.

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    ML

    Misshapen lobes on hearts, detracting from the heart's symmetry and ideal shape.

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    Length-to-Width Ratio

    The ratio of a diamond's length to its width, expressed as a number followed by ':1'.

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    Line Symmetry

    A property of fancy cuts where the shape can be divided into equal halves by an imaginary line.

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    Why Grade Fancy Cuts

    Grading helps potential buyers understand a diamond's quality and characteristics, and provides a record of its unique features.

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    Baguette Cut

    A small, rectangular step-cut diamond with four sides, often used as accent stones in rings.

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    Lozenge Step Cut

    A four-sided cut with two narrow angles, giving it an elongated 'diamond' shape.

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    Trapeze Step Cut

    A step cut with a four-sided face-up outline, two of which are parallel but unequal in length.

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    Triangular Step Cut

    A step cut with a triangular shape, ideal for cutting a flat piece of rough diamond.

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    Asscher Cut

    A square or rectangular step cut with wide corners, a small table and a deep pavilion.

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    Grading of Fancy Cuts

    A subjective process, considering the overall appearance and individual features of a fancy-cut diamond.

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    Clarity of Fancy Cuts

    Evaluated using similar rules as round brilliants, but focusing on inclusions and durability.

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    Color of Fancy Cuts

    Graded based on the amount of color visible at a 45-degree angle, considering both the diamond's color and the setting.

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    Table Percentage in Fancy Cuts

    Calculated by dividing the table size by the stone width and multiplying by 100.

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    Crown Angle in Fancy Cuts

    Evaluated and described using terms like 'acceptable', 'slightly shallow', 'very shallow', 'slightly steep', and 'very steep'.

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    Diamond Shape & Cut Naming

    GIA uses a standard system to describe a diamond's shape and cut. It combines the shape name (e.g., 'Oval') with the cutting style (e.g., 'Brilliant'), and may include additional terms like 'cut-cornered' or 'modified' for variations.

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    Modified Brilliant Cut

    This term applies to brilliant cuts that differ from a standard brilliant cut in facet arrangement. It can also describe shape variations, like a 'Modified Pear.'

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    Fancy-Cut Brilliant

    A diamond that’s not round, but has a brilliant cut facet arrangement. Even if the number of facets differs, it’s still considered a standard brilliant.

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    Princess Cut

    A square or rectangular modified brilliant with a trademarked name. It's popular for settings that allow for maximum sparkle due to its cut.

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    Radiant Cut

    A square or rectangular modified brilliant with beveled corners. This cut shines brightly and retains a significant amount of the rough diamond.

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    Fancy Cut Diamonds

    Diamond shapes and cuts that differ from the standard round brilliant, including unique shapes like pear, marquise, and heart.

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    Fancy Cut Grading Criteria

    Similar to round brilliant grading, fancy cuts are evaluated for color, clarity, cut, and carat weight, but with specific considerations for the unique shape and cutting style of each fancy cut.

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    What makes a fancy cut beautiful?

    The beauty of a fancy cut is subjective and depends on personal preference, unlike the objective grading criteria for round brilliants.

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    Cutting Style

    The arrangement and placement of facets on a diamond, shaping its light reflection and sparkle.

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    Brilliant Cut

    A diamond cut with many facets, designed to maximize brilliance and sparkle.

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    Modified Brilliant

    A brilliant cut with additional facets placed symmetrically to enhance sparkle and light reflection.

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    Belly of a Fancy Cut

    The central curved area on the side of a pear, marquise, heart, or oval diamond where the width is measured.

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    Wing of a Fancy Cut

    The area between the belly and the point of a pear, marquise, heart, or oval diamond.

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    Head of a Pear or Oval

    The rounded end of a pear or oval diamond.

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    Shoulders of a Pear or Oval

    The curved edges between the head and belly of a pear or oval diamond.

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    Study Notes

    Fancy Cut Diamonds

    • Fancy cuts differ from standard round brilliants in shape and cutting styles; they include specific fancy shapes.
    • Grading considers color, symmetry, and other characteristics like round brilliants.
    • "Cut" refers to both shape and cutting style.
    • Brilliant, step, and mixed cuts are the major diamond cutting styles.
    • Modified brilliants have additional facets symmetrically placed.
    • A diamond's face-up shape is usually the first noticeable feature.

    Fancy Cut Components

    • Belly: The central curved area of pear, marquise, heart, or oval cuts.
    • Wing: The area between the belly and point of pear or oval-shaped cuts.
    • Head: The rounded end of pear or oval-shaped cuts.
    • Shoulders: The curved edges between head and belly of pear or oval cuts.
    • Lobes: Rounded portions in heart-shaped cuts.
    • Cleft: The V-shaped indentation between lobes in heart-shaped cuts.
    • French Tips: Facet variation in some fancy cuts that replaces large bezel facets.
    • Keel Line: The bottom edge where pavilion facets meet in step, modified brilliant, or standard brilliant cuts.

    Fancy Cut Descriptions

    • GIA uses a standard system for describing diamond shapes and cutting styles (e.g., "Oval Brilliant").
    • "Cut-cornered" or "round-cornered" describes beveled or rounded corners.
    • "Modified" describes variations in brilliant cuts or other shapes.
    • Fancy-shaped brilliants are considered standard brilliants regardless of facet arrangement differences.

    Princess and Radiant Cuts

    • Princess Cut: A trade term for a square or rectangular modified brilliant, popular in the 1970s. High yield compared to round brilliants. Often used in channel or invisible settings.
    • Radiant Cut: Patented in the 1970s by Henry Grossbard; square or rectangular modified brilliant with beveled corners. Retains about 60% of the rough stone.

    Pear, Oval, and Marquise Cuts

    • Pear (Pendeloque): Elongated, narrow shape.
    • Oval: Elliptical girdle outline, similar to round brilliants.
    • Marquise (Navette): Elongated, elliptical shape with curved sides and pointed ends. Popular in the 1970s.

    Triangular and Heart Cuts

    • Triangular (Trillion): Triangular face-up shape. Variations like Trielle and Trilliant.
    • Heart: Heart-shaped face-up outline, associated with romance.
    • Cushion and Other Cuts: Classic, rectangular or square shape with rounded corners (antique version is called old mine).
    • Half-Moon: Face-up outline resembling half a circle.

    Antique Cuts

    • Brooch: Teardrop shape with triangular facets, no girdle.
    • Rose: Flat base, triangular facets, can be round, triangular, or pear-shaped.
    • Bead: Rounded and completely faceted, drilled lengthwise (spacial in pearl strands).
    • Rondelle: Faceted disk with edges, often used as spacers.

    Step Cuts

    • Emerald Cut: Common step cut with beveled corners and concentric facets.
    • Baguette: Small, four-sided step cut, used as accent stones.
    • Lozenge: Four-sided face-up outline with narrow angles
    • Trapeze: Four-sided face-up outlines, some sides are parallel, unequally long
    • Triangular: Four-sided shape with angled outs.
    • Asscher: Square or rectangular step cut.

    Grading Fancy Cuts

    • Graders consider emotional response to appearance. Important to note that fancy cuts have many variables.
    • Clarity: Similar rules to round brilliants, but step cuts are more likely to display inclusions.
    • Color: Similar grading process as round brilliants.
    • Table, Crown, Girdle: Specific measurements and percentages are calculated for fancy shapes.
    • Total Depth: Calculated based on width.
    • Pavilion Depth: Relationship between pavilion and crown heights evaluated visually.
    • Bow Tie/Bulge: Visibility graded under 10x magnification.
    • Culet: Size measured (width prioritized for some fancy cuts).
    • Shape Appeal: Symmetry and appearance compared to other diamonds in same shape and cut.
    • Length to Width Ratios: Another way to evaluate appearance
    • Finish: Evaluation of polish and symmetry.

    Important Considerations

    • Fancy cut grading is an art.
    • Gradation reports offer additional information to buyers

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    Description

    Explore the fascinating world of fancy cut diamonds through this quiz. Learn about different cutting styles, grading criteria, and the unique components that define each shape. Test your knowledge on these exquisite gems and their characteristics.

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