Ass #14 - Fancy Cut Diamonds

Podcast

Play an AI-generated podcast conversation about this lesson

Questions and Answers

What does a large and dark bow-tie indicate about a diamond's appearance?

It may enhance the diamond's brilliance.

It significantly affects the diamond's appearance and value. (correct)

It has no effect on appearance.

It can be graded as 'slight'.

How do graders assess the pavilion bulge of a diamond?

By measuring the weight of the stone.

Without any form of magnification.

By comparing it to the crown height with the naked eye.

Using 10x magnification to observe the stone's profile. (correct)

What is the range for a well-proportioned pavilion in relation to crown height?

1.0 to 3.0 times the depth of the crown.

2.5 to 4.5 times the depth of the crown. (correct)

1.5 to 2.0 times the depth of the crown.

4.5 to 6.0 times the depth of the crown.

What is the primary method for calculating the Total Depth Percentage for fancy shapes?

Using the stone’s width instead of average girdle diameter. Signup and view all the answers

When judging culet size in fancy cuts, what is primarily considered?

The width of the culet. Signup and view all the answers

What consequence can pavilion bulge have on a diamond?

It can lead to increased light leakage. Signup and view all the answers

What aspect of a diamond's appearance do graders assess to determine the bow-tie effect?

Face-up appearance under normal lighting. Signup and view all the answers

What does symmetry assessment focus on while grading diamonds?

Assessing each diamond individually by comparing its parts to the whole. Signup and view all the answers

What is a characteristic feature of a baguette diamond?

It has a small, four-sided, step-cut design. Signup and view all the answers

What aspect of the diamond grading process involves assessing the angle of the crown?

Assessing crown angle. Signup and view all the answers

How is the table percentage for fancy shapes calculated?

Table Size ÷ Stone Width × 100 Signup and view all the answers

What feature does the culet size of a diamond influence?

The durability of the diamond. Signup and view all the answers

In which type of cut is a trapeze-shaped step cut most commonly classified?

As a fancy cut. Signup and view all the answers

What is primarily assessed by graders when evaluating the bow tie phenomenon in fancy cuts?

Reflections and light performance. Signup and view all the answers

What is a typical characteristic of large table sizes in fancy cuts?

They often exceed 80 percent. Signup and view all the answers

Which grading aspect is not common to both fancy cuts and round brilliants?

Table percentage calculation. Signup and view all the answers

What is generally considered when grading the girdle in fancy cuts?

Thickness and condition. Signup and view all the answers

What commonly attracts people to fancy cuts of diamonds?

Emotional and practical reasons. Signup and view all the answers

Which term describes the curved area on the side of a pear, marquise, heart, or oval diamond where the width is measured?

Belly Signup and view all the answers

What is the name of the V-shaped indentation between the lobes of a heart-shaped diamond?

Cleft Signup and view all the answers

What component of the diamond affects its durability when using French tips?

Belly facet Signup and view all the answers

In diamond grading, what is the name of the area at the bottom of certain fancy cuts where pavilion facets meet?

Keel line Signup and view all the answers

Which cutting style is characterized by having additional facets placed symmetrically on a brilliant cut diamond?

Modified brilliant Signup and view all the answers

What do graders typically evaluate for fancy cut diamonds?

Color and symmetry Signup and view all the answers

What directly influences the appeal of a fashioned diamond when viewed face-up?

Face-up shape Signup and view all the answers

Which feature of fancy cuts does not have a universal standard of beauty, as it is determined mostly by personal taste?

Shape Signup and view all the answers

Which component is NOT a special name associated with the shape components of fancy cuts?

Crown Signup and view all the answers

What is typically assessed in a total depth percentage calculation for fancy cut diamonds?

Ratio of the diamond's height to its table diameter Signup and view all the answers

What characteristic is evaluated to assess the appeal of marquises, pears, and hearts with regards to wing shape?

Flat wings and Undefined Points Signup and view all the answers

Which statement about length-to-width ratio is true?

It uses a formula where length is divided by width. Signup and view all the answers

What is a potential issue with a culet placement during symmetry evaluation?

A high or low culet can detract from the stone’s appearance. Signup and view all the answers

What aspect of fancy cuts is evaluated using a 10x loupe?

Symmetry variations and their visibility Signup and view all the answers

What effect can a substantial bow tie have on a diamond's appearance?

Creates a shadow effect in the center Signup and view all the answers

In determining culet size, which option represents a desirable feature in a diamond?

A smaller culet size to enhance the diamond's sparkle Signup and view all the answers

In the context of total depth percentage, what does a lower ratio indicate?

The diamond could have shallow proportions. Signup and view all the answers

What is a key indicator of depth percentage in diamonds?

The ratio of crown height to pavilion depth Signup and view all the answers

Which finish grade reflects the highest quality for fancy-cut diamonds?

Excellent Signup and view all the answers

Why is the culet size important in the assessment of a diamond?

It influences light performance and visual appeal Signup and view all the answers

What is a significant consideration when grading the appeal of shape in fancy cuts?

Presence of bulged wings Signup and view all the answers

What depth percentage range is generally considered ideal for a round brilliant diamond?

50% - 60% Signup and view all the answers

What do fancy cut diamond buyers consider most important before making a purchase?

Personal inspection of the stones Signup and view all the answers

What can cause a fancy cut diamond's symmetry to be rated poorly?

Visible asymmetry between wings Signup and view all the answers

Study Notes

Fancy Cut Diamonds

Fancy cuts differ from standard round brilliants in shape and cutting styles; they include specific fancy shapes.
Grading considers color, symmetry, and other characteristics like round brilliants.
"Cut" refers to both shape and cutting style.
Brilliant, step, and mixed cuts are the major diamond cutting styles.
Modified brilliants have additional facets symmetrically placed.
A diamond's face-up shape is usually the first noticeable feature.

Fancy Cut Components

Belly: The central curved area of pear, marquise, heart, or oval cuts.
Wing: The area between the belly and point of pear or oval-shaped cuts.
Head: The rounded end of pear or oval-shaped cuts.
Shoulders: The curved edges between head and belly of pear or oval cuts.
Lobes: Rounded portions in heart-shaped cuts.
Cleft: The V-shaped indentation between lobes in heart-shaped cuts.
French Tips: Facet variation in some fancy cuts that replaces large bezel facets.
Keel Line: The bottom edge where pavilion facets meet in step, modified brilliant, or standard brilliant cuts.

Fancy Cut Descriptions

GIA uses a standard system for describing diamond shapes and cutting styles (e.g., "Oval Brilliant").
"Cut-cornered" or "round-cornered" describes beveled or rounded corners.
"Modified" describes variations in brilliant cuts or other shapes.
Fancy-shaped brilliants are considered standard brilliants regardless of facet arrangement differences.

Princess and Radiant Cuts

Princess Cut: A trade term for a square or rectangular modified brilliant, popular in the 1970s. High yield compared to round brilliants. Often used in channel or invisible settings.
Radiant Cut: Patented in the 1970s by Henry Grossbard; square or rectangular modified brilliant with beveled corners. Retains about 60% of the rough stone.

Pear, Oval, and Marquise Cuts

Pear (Pendeloque): Elongated, narrow shape.
Oval: Elliptical girdle outline, similar to round brilliants.
Marquise (Navette): Elongated, elliptical shape with curved sides and pointed ends. Popular in the 1970s.

Triangular and Heart Cuts

Triangular (Trillion): Triangular face-up shape. Variations like Trielle and Trilliant.
Heart: Heart-shaped face-up outline, associated with romance.
Cushion and Other Cuts: Classic, rectangular or square shape with rounded corners (antique version is called old mine).
Half-Moon: Face-up outline resembling half a circle.

Antique Cuts

Brooch: Teardrop shape with triangular facets, no girdle.
Rose: Flat base, triangular facets, can be round, triangular, or pear-shaped.
Bead: Rounded and completely faceted, drilled lengthwise (spacial in pearl strands).
Rondelle: Faceted disk with edges, often used as spacers.

Step Cuts

Emerald Cut: Common step cut with beveled corners and concentric facets.
Baguette: Small, four-sided step cut, used as accent stones.
Lozenge: Four-sided face-up outline with narrow angles
Trapeze: Four-sided face-up outlines, some sides are parallel, unequally long
Triangular: Four-sided shape with angled outs.
Asscher: Square or rectangular step cut.

Grading Fancy Cuts

Graders consider emotional response to appearance. Important to note that fancy cuts have many variables.
Clarity: Similar rules to round brilliants, but step cuts are more likely to display inclusions.
Color: Similar grading process as round brilliants.
Table, Crown, Girdle: Specific measurements and percentages are calculated for fancy shapes.
Total Depth: Calculated based on width.
Pavilion Depth: Relationship between pavilion and crown heights evaluated visually.
Bow Tie/Bulge: Visibility graded under 10x magnification.
Culet: Size measured (width prioritized for some fancy cuts).
Shape Appeal: Symmetry and appearance compared to other diamonds in same shape and cut.
Length to Width Ratios: Another way to evaluate appearance
Finish: Evaluation of polish and symmetry.

Important Considerations

Fancy cut grading is an art.
Gradation reports offer additional information to buyers

Studying That Suits You

Use AI to generate personalized quizzes and flashcards to suit your learning preferences.

Description

Explore the fascinating world of fancy cut diamonds through this quiz. Learn about different cutting styles, grading criteria, and the unique components that define each shape. Test your knowledge on these exquisite gems and their characteristics.