Esthetics: Chemical Reactions & Safety

• Understanding the ingredients is an aspect of chemistry and chemical safety
• Estheticians are able to experience a variety of products
• Troubleshooting is important when using chemicals
• Bath fizzes are a type of chemical reaction
• Effervescence is the formation of gas bubbles in a liquid by a chemical reaction
• Effervescence is produced by baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and citric acid reacting, forming sodium citrate (a salt) and carbon dioxide gas
• When dissolved, the acid (citric acid) and the base or alkali (sodium bicarbonate) react vigorously producing carbon dioxide gas

Life experiences with chemicals

• Suspension is an unstable physical mixture of undissolved particles in a liquid
• Glitter in nail polish, and oil+vinegar salad dressing are suspensions, and must be mixed before using

Keratosis Pilaris

• Keratosis Pilaris presents as small, often red bumps and the skin feels rough
• The bumps can appear on the face and on the upper arms, back, and legs
• Salicylic Acid in concentrations of between 3 and 6% can be effective for Keratosis Pilaris on the body
• A concentration of 1 to 2% is recommended for the face

Key terms to understand

• Chemistry deals with the composition, structures, and properties of matter, and how matter changes under different conditions
• Matter is any substance that occupies space and has mass (weight)
• Everything made of matter is a chemical, and all matter is made up of substances called elements
• Energy does not occupy space or have mass

Elements

• The simplest form of chemical matter
• Each element is identified by a letter symbol
• Elements are composed of a single part or unit
• Elements cannot be reduced to a simpler substance without loss of identity
• There are 118 known elements, and 98 naturally occurring elements
• Elements are identified by a letter symbol

Oxidization

• Oxidation is when elements combine or become combined chemically with oxygen

Physical mixtures

• Physical mixtures are when constituent substances are not chemically combined

Atoms

• Atoms are the basic unit of matter, with a nucleus at the center surrounded by negatively charged electrons that move around the nucleus in orbits
• The nucleus consists of protons (subatomic particles with a positive charge) and neutrons (subatomic particles with no charge)
• The number of protons determines the element
• Atoms cannot be divided into simpler substances by ordinary chemical means

Molecules

• Molecules are a chemical combination of two or more atoms
• There are elemental molecules, and compound molecules
• Water is made from hydrogen and oxygen

Elemental molecules

• Elemental molecules are a chemical combination of atoms of the same element, in fixed proportions
• Air is an elemental molecule O2, and ozone in the atmosphere is an elemental molecule O3

Compound molecules

• Compound molecules are chemical compounds of two or more atoms of different elements, in fixed proportions
• Common table salt is a compound molecule that contains 1 atom of sodium and 1 atom of chlorine (Cl)

Physical and chemical properties of matter

• Physical change is when form is changed without becoming a new substance
• Chemical change is when there is a change in chemical composition or makeup of substance
• Physical properties are determined without a chemical reaction, and include color, odor, weight, and density
• Chemical properties are determined with a chemical reaction
• Change in identity (iron rusting and wood burning) is a chemical property

Differences between solutions, suspensions, and emulsions

• Miscible liquids are mutually soluble, meaning that they can be mixed together to form solutions
• Water and alcohol are examples of miscible liquids as in a nail polish remover, and when mixed stay mixed forming a solution
• Immiscible liquids are incapable of being mixed to form stable solutions like oil and water
• Suspensions are unstable physical mixtures of undissolved particles in a liquid

Emulsions and emulsifiers

• An emulsion is an unstable physical mixture of two or more immiscible substances, substances that normally will not stay mixed, and an emulsifier
• Emulsions are a special type of suspension because they can separate over a long period of time like foundation
• An emulsifier is an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and stable mixture

Surfactants

• Surfactants allow oil and water to mix or emulsify
• Lipophilic tails are oil-loving tails, which dissolve in oil
• Hydrophilic heads are water-loving heads, which dissolve in water

Other physical mixtures

• Ointments are Semissolids made with any combination of petrolatum, oil, and wax
• Powders are a physical mixture of two solids, which may separate during shipping and storage and should be thoroughly mixed by shaking the container before each use

Common chemical product ingredients

• Volatile alcohols
• Alkanolamines
• Ammonia
• Glycerin
• Silicones
• Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC)

Ammonia

• Ammonia is colorless with a pungent odor
• Ammonia is composed of nitrogen and hydrogen; in a water solution, it is called ammonia water
• Ammonia is used to raise the pH (potential hydrogen)
• Ammonium chloride can irritate your skin, especially if you have dry or sensitive skin

Silicone

• Silicone is a special type of oil used in hair conditioners, water-resistant lubricants for the skin, and nail polish dryers
• Silicones are less greasy than many other oils and can impart a silky, smooth feel to the skin and give shine to hair

Volatile organic compounds

• Volatile organic compounds are compounds that contain carbon (organic) and evaporate very easily (volatile)
• The most common VOC used is ethyl alcohol
• VOCs are liquids or solids used in consumer products that turn into gas when exposed to air and sunlight

The overexposure principle

• Overexposure means toxicity
• Example: salt water
• Seawater has a higher osmotic pressure than most of the fluids in your body
• Drinking seawater will pull water out of your cells in order to dilute the seawater, eventually causing your cells to die of thirst

Volatile alcohols

• Volatile alcohols evaporate easily
• Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and ethyl alcohol are examples of volatile alcohols

Alkanolamine

• Alkanolamine is used to neutralize acids or raise pH of hair products
• Alkanolamine is used in place of ammonia

Glycerin

• Glycerin is a sweet, colorless, oily substance, which is used as a solvent and moisturizer

Potential hydrogen

• An ion is an atom or molecule that carries an electrical charge
• Ionization is the temporary separation of a substance into ions
• An anion is an ion with a negative electrical charge
• A cation is an ion with a positive electrical charge
• Water ionization is related to water pH

pH scale

• Hydrogen ion (H+) is acidic
• Hydroxide ion (OH-) is alkaline
• pH scale measures the quantity of hydrogen and hydroxide ions within a substance
• In pure water, some water molecules naturally ionize into hydrogen and hydroxide ions
• Only aqueous solutions have pH
• Non-aqueous solutions (oil and alcohol) do not have pH
• Without water, there is no pH
• Pure water contains the same number of hydrogen ions as hydroxide ions, making it neutral at 50% acidic and 50% alkaline

pH and acne

• Propionibacterium acnes are found on all skin, but in high levels are prone to breaking out in acne more
• P. Acnes growth is minimal at pH 5.5
• P. Acnes thrive in a more alkaline environment
• Soaps with pH around 5.5 are best for acne

The pH scale

• The pH scale is a measure of the acidity and alkalinity of a substance
• The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, where 7 indicates a neutral solution
• Below 7 indicates an acidic solution
• Above 7 indicates an alkaline solution
• The pH scale is logarithmic with multiples of ten, a change of one whole number represents a tenfold change in pH/
• pH of 8 is 10 times more alkaline than a pH of 7
• Cleansers have a pH of 4.5-7
• Toners have a pH of 5-7
• Sunscreens have a pH of 5-7.5
• Exfoliants have a pH of 3.2-3.9
• Moisturizers have a pH of 5-7
• Serums have a pH of 4-6

Acids and alkalis

• Acids owe their chemical reactivity to the hydrogen ion (H+)
• pH is below 7
• Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are derived from plants (mostly fruit) and are examples of acids often used in salons to exfoliate the skin
• Thioglycolic acid contract and close the hair cuticle
• Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxyl acid used in exfoliation and to lower pH of products
• Alkalis (bases) Owe their chemical relativity to the hydroxide ion (OH-)
• pH is above 7
• Alkalis feel slippery and soapy on the skin
• Sodium hydroxide (lye) are used in chemical hair relaxers, callous softeners, and drain cleaners

Neutralization reactions

• Acid-Alkali Neutralization is when water ionization in reverse: H+ + OH- -> H2O
• Mixing acids and alkalis in equal proportions forms water
• Neutralizing shampoos and Normalizing Lotions

More on acid-alkali neutralization reactions

• When acids and alkalis mix in equal proportions, they neutralize to form water
• Liquid soaps are usually slightly acidic and can neutralize alkaline callus softener residues left on the skin after rinsing

Key points to remember

• Pure water has a pH of 7, meaning that it is neither acidic nor alkaline
• Pure water is considered neutral because it is in the middle of the scale, neither acidic nor alkaline
• Hair and skin have a pH of 5, which indicates that a substance is acidic
• Oxidation-reduction is responsible for the chemical changes created by combining an element or compound with oxygen
• An acid-alkaline reaction is one in which equal parts of acid are added to an equal amount of alkaline and they neutralize each other, forming water
• Exothermic chemical reactions are characterized by the release of heat, which is produced by an oxidation reaction

Ingredients

• Emollients soften and smooth the skin by including mineral oil and lanolin
• Humectants attract moisture to the skin via glycerin and hyaluronic acid
• Surfactants help cleanse the skin by allowing water to mix with oil and dirt with sodium lauryl sulfate
• Preservatives prevent microbial growth in products using parabens and phenoxyethanol
• Antioxidants protect the skin from damage by free radicals via vitamin C and vitamin E

Types of products

• Cleansers remove dirt, oil, and makeup from the skin
• Moisturizers hydrate and protect the skin
• Exfoliants remove dead skin cells to improve skin texture using alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic acid
• Sunscreens protect the skin from UV radiation via zinc oxide, titanium dioxide

Formulation basics

• Emulsions are mixtures of oil and water stabilized by emulsifiers
• Stability ensures the product remains effective and safe over time

Emulsions

• Oil-in-Water (O/W) formulations have oil droplets dispersed in water, and are commonly used in lotions and creams
• Oil-in-Water emulsions are less greasy and easily absorbed by the skin
• Water-in-Oil (W/O) emulsions have water droplets dispersed in oil, providing a more moisturizing effect and used in richer creams and ointments

Solutions

• Aqueous Solutions are water-based solutions, such as toners and facial mists
• Alcoholic Solutions contain alcohol as a solvent, used in astringents and hand sanitizers

Gels and suspensions

• Hydrogels are Water-based gels that provide a cooling effect, commonly used in moisturizers and eye gels
• Oleogels are Oil-based gels used in products like lip balms and ointments
• Suspensions contain Solid-in-Liquid: Solid particles suspended in a liquid, such as exfoliating scrubs, and Liquid-in-Liquid consists of two immiscible liquids, alike some types of makeup removers

Anhydrous products

• No water, such as lipsticks and solid perfumes
• Anhydrous formulations are often more stable and have a longer shelf life

Ways to familiarize yourself with cosmetics

• Practice formulating by creating simple formulations to understand the process better, and start with basic recipes and gradually experiment with different ingredients like body scrubs.
• Read Labels to familiarize yourself with product labels to understand ingredients and purposes
• Stay Updated, by following industry news and research to keep up with new ingredients and technologies

Acids and bases

• Common examples of acidic substances are lemon juice, vinegar, and stomach acid
• Common examples of basic substances are baking soda, soap, and bleach
• The pH of pure water is 7, which is neutral

Understanding the pH scale

• The pH scale measures the acidity or alkalinity of a solution
• The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14
• Something is considered acidic when its pH is less than 7
• Something is considered neutral when its pH is equal to 7
• Something is considered basic/alkaline when its pH is greater than 7

Importance of pH

• pH is important in biological systems, as it affects enzyme activity, cellular function, and homeostasis in living organisms
• The body uses buffers, the respiratory system, and the renal system to maintain pH balance

###Measuring pH

• Methods to measure pH include pH Indicators, which are substances that change color at different pH levels e.g., litmus paper
• pH Meters are electronic devices that measure the pH of a solution

Chemistry review points

• Matter is anything that occupies space and has weight
• Organic things are living or once living, contain carbon, and include plants and animals
• Inorganic things are not living, never were, contain no carbon, and include rocks
• Chemistry is the study of matter
• Physical and chemical changes affect matter and the energy changes that take place
• Chemical reactions are when 2 or more molecules have a chemical change

Nail dips

• Use cyanoacrylate monomers
• Use methacrylate powder
• Use tertiary aromatic amines

Nail product chemistry

• Adhesion with nail primer
• Nail coatings like nail polishes,
• Nail enhancements like monomers and polymers
• The overexposure principle.
• Nail wraps use a chemical component called cyanoacrylate monomers
• The hardener comes in various forms like spray, drops, and powder
• A fiberglass, resin, silk or paper is incorporated
• A Tertiary aromatic amine moisture cure (curing process can be hastened to completion within 5-10 sec by solvents, like dimethyl tolyamine & other tertiary aromatic amines)
• Simple polymer chains allow for easy removal due to tangled chains that easily unravel by solvents

Nail cosmetic chemistry

• Photochromatic Ultraviolet sensitive compound darkens on exposure to sunlight
• Thermochromatic Color change induced by temperature, with colors becoming lighter when cold and darker when fingernails are warm

Magnetic nail polish

• Contains iron powder
• A magnet in the cap can be held close to the nail to formulate the iron powder in desired pattern before the evaporation of solvent to be removed before magnetic resonance imaging

TSFR

• Toluene-sulfonamide-formaldehyde resin, causes the most common culprit for causing allergic contact dermatitis, polyester resin or cellulose acetate butyrate may be used but sensitivity is still possible
• Toxin-free nail polish does not contain dibutyl phthalate, toluene and formaldehyde as published by some manufacturers
• Hypoallergenic nail polish has increased polish peeling
• Maintaining integrity of the nail is important

Nail products and removal

• Nail products and the removal process are extremely important
• Soak off soft gels more easily but must be removed with caution
• Metal or wooden pushers used to scrape or pry away residual products can lead to pitting and gouging of the nail surface
• It is your responsibility to avoid nail damage and properly remove nail coatings

Milady text

• Product removal is the most potentially damaging service that can be performed
• Carefully complete removal can damage and dry the nail plate
• It is best to leave the enhancements in place and only remove them when clients no longer want to wear them
• Removing them three or four times a year can be damaging
• It is better for the nail tech to leave them in place and keep them properly maintained