Dandyism and Social Impact

• Late 19th-century France mass consumption is examined. "Dream Worlds" by Rosalind Williams explores attitudes toward consumption.

1300-1400s

• Paris was not the capital during this time.
• The Burgundian court was prominent.

1500s

• States became unified and defined by borders and ideologies.
• Spain, England, and France emerged as nation-states.
• The French Renaissance castles in the Loire Valley feature draperies and frescoes.
• These castles belonged to aristocrats and the court, while the majority were simple farmers.

Le roi Francois I (1515-1547)

• Castles flourished during his reign.
• Nobles were dependent on the king during the Renaissance.
• Francois brought Italian antique style with him from war.
• The court followed suit, adopting Italian statues and paintings. Leonardo Da Vinci was brought to France.
• The king controlled land, nation, and taste, homogenizing taste among aristocrats, continuing into the 1700s.

Philip II King of Spain (1527-1598)

• The Spanish Empire dominated until the first half of the 1600s.
• Its trends were adopted by European courts, with long exposed legs showing status.
• High collars demonstrated posture and status, signifying luxury and dignity. Kråsen was expensive to produce.
• Restricting movement and keeping head high became fashionable.

Elizabeth of Valois, Queen of Spain

• Women wore a saya, a bell-shaped skirt.
• They also wore bodices and high shoes made of cork.
• Cork kept clothes clean by elevating the body and restricting movement.
• Fabrics used: velvet, satin, or dammas.
• Status was displayed in every detail of dress, reinforcing the wearer's power.

Spanish Style

• Farthingales emerged, stiffened with whalebone, wood, or wire.
• The Spanish somber style was adopted by Protestants in England and the Netherlands, becoming bourgeois.

Ludvig XIV

• Ruled 1638-1715 for 77 years.
• He made France the center of Europe and the world, achieving economic and cultural success.
• Colbert, understood the value of French fashion in generating revenue through textiles.
• Textiles formed the base of the fashion industry.
• The state supported the fashion industry, making fashion a cornerstone of French economy and culture.
• Comité Colbert promoted and protected the French luxury industry by combatting forgery, establishing sales networks, and safeguarding rights.

F. Boucher "La toilette" 1742

• Marked a shift from Spanish style to a colorful French style.
• French styles became popular in Europe, except among the Spanish nobility and English Calvinists.

Hovet

• Louis XIV dictated brocade usage.
• He controlled the court and aristocracy and wanted power over the nobility, choosing members for loyalty.
• Clothing was politically important.
• Madame de Montespan led France in luxury from 1661-1670.
• Madame de Maintenon's strict Christian beliefs led to rigid dress codes.

Barock Women

• Hair was styled with curls and a flat back.
• Voluminous skirts
• Typical of the first half of the 1600s.

Fashion dissemination in the 1600s

• Fashion dolls, "Pandora," were sent to courts as miniature clothing patterns.

Le Mercure Galant

• One of the earliest magazines with fashion content, was launched 1672.
• It spread gossip, news, and social events from Paris to the countryside.
• Written in the voice of a Parisian woman, it included literature and poetry, though not strictly a fashion magazine. Fashion changed slowly in the 1700s, with formal court dress remaining consistent.

Château de Versailles

• Louis XIV's grand vision led to its total renovation beginning 1670s.
• The French court moved from the Louvre, making Versailles the center of power.
• After Louis XIV's death in 1715, the court returned to Paris.
• Le Grand Trianon was used to escape courtly life somewhat.
• Strict codes dictated who could enter Versailles, with nine different entrances for different ranks.

Voltaire

• Addressed the concept of civilization.
• The term suggests societies can become civilized by eliminating vulgarity.
• Critiqued the church, emphasizing civility.
• Voltaire embraced luxury for its economic benefits, providing jobs and exporting goods.
• He supported industrial development and education.
• Jean-Jacque Rousseau critiqued the exploitation of workers, advocating for their rights.

Hotel parisien

• Nobles moved back to smaller palaces in Paris, fueling the luxury industry with demands for art, furniture, and clothing.
• Paris flourished in the 1700s, becoming more appealing than Versailles.
• Salons became centers for intellectual discussions, questioning the king's power and promoting social mixing and democratic ideals.

Lyxindustrin

• Rue Saint-Honoré shops 1715-1725, spread to Rue de Richelieu.
• The Justaucorps item was made for men.
• Robe à la Française 1750-1760 features a distinctive back piece creating a train.

Macaroni Modet

• 1760s English aristocrats adopted the French style, rebelling against simple English fashion.
• It was considered a masculine mode.

Les incroyables

• Young aristocrats of the French Revolution 1789 rebelled in dress after the execution of nobles.
• They wore unpowdered hair, earrings, short breeches, high collars, and oversized cravats, carried short canes and magnifying glasses and omitted the letter "R" in speech.

Les sans culottes

• They wore no knee-breeches.
• They adopted loose trousers from the working class.
• They removed knee-breeches after Robespierre's execution.
• They also sported clogs and short jackets, representing revolutionary ideals.

Kockad

• Was an ornament on hats.
• It symbolized revolution.
• Some wearing knee-breeches still showed support through the cockade.

Marie Antoinette 1783

• Wore a straw hat and no jewelry
• Her artist replicated items with pearls, lace, and silk.

Macaroni modet

• Inspired by French and Italian fashion
• It symbolizes a threat to English virtue and society.

Les incroyables

• Showed aristocratic men's dissent after the French Revolution.

George Brummell 1886 (1778-1840)

• Young men in Scotland and England had eccentric clothing.
• Brummell's style was described as iconic for the dandy.
• Originating from a respectable family, Brummell gained influence in high society.
• After being appointed to a military regiment under Price of Wales, he neglected duties and focused social power.
• He considered the dandy a state phenomenon, emphasizing appearance.
• The dandy's dark outfit represented the working man's contribution to society.
• Dandyism countered uniform social norms.

Brummell's dress included these:

• A dark blue coat
• Light vest
• Breeches
• Boots
• Blue coat
• A white vest
• Tight black pants with striped silk socks
• Opera hat
• Brass buttons

Accessories for a theatrical effect were as follows:

• Lorgnette

• Magnifying glass to study and judge others, asserting power and creating inferiority.

• Body movements and glances conveyed social status and power.

• The meeting symbolized control and territory marking through detail and gaze.

• Brummel was known for his coldness, lack of emotion, and manipulated personality.

• Showing emotions was a sign of weakness for a dandy.

• Anonymity was not a dandy's thing.

• An elegant, discreet, luxurious look was an attempt to confuse, rather than gain attention.

Regency dandy

• Rules were set for society.
• Membership was held in clubs in London.

Kung George IV (4e)

• He was the Prince of Wales in
• Brummell ended relations in 1811.
• Spread rumors about the king
• Lived in France and Cannes by 1830 and died as a charity case
• He died in 1840, facing the wall.

Franska dandyn

• An intellectual pursuit in France
• Dandyism reacted against bourgeois norms by rejecting mediocrity through aesthetics.

Comte d'Orsay (dandy)

• United intellect with fashion, seeing external care not conflicting with intellectualism.
• There was a transformation from aesthetics to intellectual and subjective expression.

Charles Baudelaire 1821-1867

• A big dandy.

Honoré de Balzac 1799-1850

• Captured the dandy in his books.

Lecture 3 Baudelaire and modernity(1821-1867)

• Melancholy and contradictory
• Jeanne Duval, influenced poems, testaments
• Lavish spending followed by guardianship
• Critical and nonchalant style

Defines dandy(Baudelaire)

• Cultivate beauty through thought, feeling, and desire
• Focus solely on self-elevation and originality while defying vulgarity
• Separate from the masses and create a unique spiritual standard
• Possess money as a means, not an end, for achieving ambition

Baudelaire: Modernity

• Encompasses the transient and fleeting
• Art captures the ephemeral and defies conventional beauty standards
• Sminkets' "In Praise" celebrates artificiality and elevates culture above nature due to cosmetics.

Lecture 4: Paris pre- and post- guilds and department stores.

• Clothing reflected the shift from societal status to bourgeois values
• The clothing indicated the religious preference, political view and included materials, colours and silhouette
• Example: Leprosy was excluded

Change in clothing

• Wealth and social structure were vital in the increasing changes
• Aristocratic era(1500-1700) to Bourgeois era(1700)
• Rural: Older
• The urban class has second markets
• Louis XVI: freed people
• French revolutions ended privileges and middle classes replaced aristocratic culture
• Consumption shifted

Le Marché du Temple:

• Market for lower class and illegal selling where second-hand clothes were sold

1600 talet: Sewing

• Began being restricted to skilled men
• The seamstresses created their skilled core
• Resulted in Rose Bertin modehanderska etc who served Marie Antioninette
• During French revolution many tailors expressed their thoughts of mass production through ready to wear garments, which lead to serial production

Confection

• Fashion: more accessible to people outside the courtroom

Le Bon Marché

• Brought modern consumption
• Separated product from usage
• Standardizing existing products
• Introduced product and style

Exposition universelle

• 1855-1900: Exhibitions displayed new products and new means.
• It became a sign of how far society had made it

Difference in clothing 1900-1925

• corsets still dominated
• The Frou Frou kjole
• pastellfarjer
• New material was created

Paul Prince 1879-1944

• Avant-garde design
• A new style of clothing that will revolutionary illustrations
• New fabrics and style

American mindset during revolution

• America acknowledged Paris as head of the revolutionary court system.

Konsten

• Inspired all aspects of revolution and court.

Jeanne Paqiun

• More practical clothing

The world's first impact of modern court

• the shorter skirts resulted in the decrease of material as resources were thin.

Christian Dior

• Revolution style and the New Look.