Cosmetology: Nail Care & Lipsticks

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What is the primary purpose of nail lacquers?

To offer protection against solvents and detergents

What is the best film forming material for nail lacquers?

Nitrocellulose

What is a disadvantage of using Nitrocellulose in nail lacquers?

It has a tendency to shrink and become brittle

Why are secondary resins and plasticizers used with Nitrocellulose in nail lacquers?

To improve its gloss and adhesion

What is the purpose of plasticizers in nail lacquers?

To give flexibility and control to the film

What is a desirable property of an ideal plasticizer in nail lacquers?

Low volatility

What is the purpose of solvents in nail lacquers?

To thin the film

What is a type of secondary film forming resin used in nail lacquers?

Polyvinyl acetate

What is the primary purpose of diluents in nail lacquers?

To stabilize the viscosity of the lacquer

What is a characteristic of colorants used in nail lacquers?

They must be certified by the FDA

What is the primary function of waxes in lipsticks?

To provide structure to the solid lipstick

What is the purpose of oils in nail lacquer removers?

To prevent the drying of nails and skin

What is a characteristic of latent solvents?

They increase the strength of active solvents

What is the primary purpose of active solvents in nail lacquers?

To dissolve nitrocellulose

What is a characteristic of pigments in lipsticks?

They are either dissolved or dispersed in the oil

What is the primary function of emollients in nail lacquer removers?

To prevent the drying of nails and skin

What is the primary function of carnauba wax in lipstick formulation?

To provide strength to the lipstick

What is the purpose of castor oil in lipstick formulation?

To act as a solvent and dispersing agent

What is the role of titanium dioxide in lipstick formulation?

To modify the shade of used pigments

What is the purpose of antioxidants in lipstick formulation?

To prevent oxidation and rancid odor

What is the primary function of perfume in lipstick formulation?

To cover any fatty odor originally present

What is the role of preservatives in lipstick formulation?

To prevent microbial growth

Study Notes

Nail Lacquers (Nail Enamel)

  • Designed to promote nail hygiene and offer protection against solvents and detergents
  • Must contain a film former that exhibits ease of brushing application, fast drying and hardening, good adhesion to the nail, and resistance to chipping and abrasion
  • Formulation should consist of:
    • Primary film forming materials: cellulose acetate, ethyl cellulose, methacrylate polymer, vinyl polymers, and nitrocellulose (the best film forming material)
    • Secondary film forming resins: polyvinyl acetate, many butyrates, and aryl sulfonamide formaldehyde resins
    • Plasticizers: dibutyl phthalate, camphor, and castor oil to provide control to flexibility and elongation of the film
    • Solvents: active solvents (ketones, esters, emides, and nitroparaffins), latent solvents (alcohols), and diluents (aromatic hydrocarbons, toluene, and xylene)
    • Colorants: must be certified by the FDA, have good coloring properties, and be insoluble in lacquer solvents to avoid nail staining

Nail Lacquer Removers

  • Solvents of nitrocellulose combined with oils and emollients to prevent or reduce the drying of nails and skin
  • Emollients: stearates or lanolin derivatives

Lipsticks

  • Cosmetic preparations used to impart an attractive color and glossy moisture appearance to the lips
  • Composed of waxes, oils, pigments, and emollients to provide color, texture, and protection to the lips
  • Must have a melting-point between 55-75°C to withstand hot climates, keeping its consistency
  • Essentially made of an oil-wax base that is molded and stiff enough to form a stick upon cooling

Components of Lipsticks

  • Waxes: provide structure to the solid lipstick, with a mixture of waxes of different melting points (60-85°C) used, e.g., white beeswax, Candelilla wax, Ozokerite wax, and carnauba wax
  • Oil mixture: added to give the lipstick its shine and translucent effect, and functions as a solvent of the soluble dyestuff and as a dispersing agent for the insoluble pigments
  • Pigments and Dyes: used to impart the desired color or shade to the lipstick, e.g., bismuth oxychloride, manganese violet, and titanium dioxide
  • Other additives: perfume, antioxidants (e.g., butylated hydroxyanisole BHA, butylated hydroxytoluene BHT), and preservatives (e.g., methyl paraben, propyl paraben)

Learn about nail lacquers, their components, and removers, as well as lipsticks and their components. Understand the importance of nail hygiene and protection.

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