Cosmetology Chapter 20 Vocabulary

Study Notes

Permanent Waves

Acid-balanced waves: Permanent waves with a neutral pH (7.0), process at room temperature, yielding firmer curls.
Alkaline waves: Known as cold waves, they have a pH of 9.0-9.6 and use ammonium thioglycolate as a reducing agent.
True acid waves: pH between 4.5 and 7.0, requiring heat for processing, producing softer curls compared to alkaline waves.

Core Components in Chemical Processes

Amino acids: Building blocks of proteins containing carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, and sulfur.
Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG): Active ingredient in alkaline permanent waves.
Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG): Main active ingredient in true acid-balanced waving lotions.
Keratin proteins: Long coiled chains that form the structure of hair.

Perm Techniques and Terminology

Basic permanent wrap: All rods within a panel move in the same direction, positioned on equal-sized, horizontal bases.
Croquignole perm wrap: Wrapped from ends to scalp in concentric layers, producing a defined curl.
Bricklay permanent wrap: Rods are offset in rows, blending hair flow and reducing visible splits.
Double-rod wrap: Involves wrapping hair on two rods, accommodating longer hair length.
Spiral perm wrap: Hair wrapped at an angle to create spirals, similar to candy cane stripes.

Relaxers and Treatments

Chemical hair relaxing: Rearranges curly hair into a straighter form.
Hydroxide relaxers: Strong alkalis with pH over 13; active ingredient is the hydroxide ion.
Thio relaxers: Use ATG at a higher concentration for relaxing hair.

Application Techniques

Base control: Determines the position of the rod based on the angle hair is wrapped.
End papers: Absorbent papers used to manage hair ends during wrapping.
Base placement: Position of the rod in relation to the base section to control curl alignment.
Off-base placement: Wrapped at a 45-degree angle, positioned completely off its base.
On-base placement: Wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular, directly on the base.

Chemical Reactions and Effects

Hydroxide neutralization: Neutralizes alkaline residues from hydroxide relaxers, restoring pH.
Thio neutralization: Stops permanent wave solution action, helping rebuild hair structure.
Viscosity: Measurement of liquid thickness, influencing how a solution flows during application.

Specialized Terms

Loop rod: Rod with a uniform diameter, about 12 inches long.
Soft curl permanent: Combines a thio relaxer with a thio permanent to enlarge existing curls.
Low-pH waves: Use alternative reducing agents like sulfites; have a low pH.
No-base relaxers: Do not require protective base cream during application.
Weave technique: Zigzag partings to divide base areas for wrapping.

This compilation summarizes essential vocabulary and concepts from cosmetology focused on chemical texture services, perm techniques, and hair relaxing processes.

Description

Test your knowledge with this quiz on vocabulary from Chapter 20 of your cosmetology course. Learn key terms related to permanent waves and their chemical processes. Perfect for students looking to reinforce their understanding of wave types and their properties.