Cosmetics: Cold Creams & Sodium Borate

• Cosmetics are articles intended to be rubbed, poured, or sprayed on the human body, or any part of it.
• Cosmetics are for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering appearance.

Creams

• Cold creams are semisolid, white, water in oil emulsions.
• Cold creams are prepared with cetyl-esters wax, white wax, mineral oils, sodium borate, and purified water.

Role of Sodium Borate

• Combines with free fatty acids present in waxes.
• Forms sodium soaps that act as an emulsifier.

Cold Cream Uses

• Employed as an emollient and ointment base.
• Coldness is caused by the evaporation of water from the internal phase.
• Evaporation occurs slowly and induces cooling for a long period of time.
• Used generally in the summer.
• Used at night for nourishing the skin.

Beeswax-Borax Cold Cream Recipe

• Purified Water: 24 ml
• Borax: Q.S.
• Olive oil (liq. Paraffin): 50 ml
• Beeswax: 12.5 g
• Soft paraffin: 12.5 g
• Make cream, send 10 g, Sig: M.D.U.

Alternative Cold Cream Recipe (10/100)

• Purified water: 2.4 ml
• Borax: 0.119 g
• Olive oil (liq. Paraffin): 5 ml
• Beeswax: 1.25 g
• Soft paraffin: 1.25 g
• Make cream, send 10 g, label to be used as directed.

Cold Cream Procedure

• Dissolve 0.119 g of borax in 2.4 ml of purified water.
• Step 1: 1.25 g Bees wax, 1.25 g soft paraffin and 5 ml liquid paraffin is melted.
• Step 2: Heat the test tube then add to the Porcelain dish
• Step 3: Stir well in one direction quickly for 1 minute on water bath.
• Step 4: Remove the dish from the W.B. then stir well until semi homogenous cream is obtained

Cold Cream Label

• Name of Preparation: Cold cream
• Directions: To be used as directed
• Use: External use
• Color: Red label

Cold Cream Use

• Overall use: Nourishing the skin

Cold Cream Notes

• Self-emulsifying cream.
• Emulgent is a product of reaction between borax and free fatty acids of oils and beeswax.
• No humectants (glycerin) are used.
• Shiny, so used at night.

Vanishing Cream

• Oil in water emulsion of stearic acid in water containing soap.
• Basic ingredients include stearic acid, alkali, water, and glycerin.
• Part of the stearic acid is saponified with the alkali.
• Resulting soap emulsifies the bulk of the acid.

Vanishing Cream Recipe

• Purified water: 79 ml
• Stearic acid: 15 g
• Potassium hydroxide: Q.S.
• Glycerin: 5 ml
• Make cream, send 10 g, Sig: M.D.U.

Alternative Vanishing Cream Recipe (10/100)

• Purified water: 7.9 ml
• Stearic acid: 1.5 g
• Potassium hydroxide: 72 mg
• Glycerin: 0.5 ml
• Make cream, send 10 g, label to be used as directed

Vanishing Cream Procedure

• Dissolve 72 mg of KOH, 8 ml water and 0.5 ml Glycerin
• Step 1: 1.5 g Stearic acid is melted.
• Step 2: Heat the test tube then add to the Porcelain dish
• Step 3: Stir well in one direction quickly for 1 minute on water bath.
• Step 4: Remove the dish from the W.B. then stir well until semi homogenous cream is obtained

Vanishing Cream Uses

• Used as a foundation cream.
• Used as a base for protective, sunscreen, non-foam shaving, and nourishing cream.
• Water evaporates on application to the skin.
• Stearic acid precipitates on the skin in the finest crystals.
• Stearic acid increases the smoothness of the skin.
• Glycerin is used as a humectant.
• Glycerin reduces the rate of drying out and to prevent crust formation.

Vanishing Cream Label

• Name of preparation: Vanishing cream
• Directions: To be used as directed
• Use: External use
• Color: Red label

Vanishing Cream Notes

• Leaves a matte, non-greasy residue on the skin.
• Emulsifier is formed as a result of the reaction between KOH and stearic acid, creating potassium stearate.
• The selection of alkali affects the properties of the cream.
• Sodium stearate yields a relatively hard cream.
• Triethanolamine yields a soft cream.
• Potassium stearate lies in between.

Comparison of Cold Cream and Vanishing Cream