Color Theory Fundamentals

Color Theory

• Hue: Pure color, differentiating one from another (e.g., red vs. blue)
• Intensity: Vividness or brightness of a color
• Value: Lightness or darkness of a color
• Tint: Adding white to a color (highest value)
• Shade: Adding black to a color (lowest value)
• Tone: Adding gray to a color (middle value)
• Primary Colors: Red, blue, yellow
• Secondary Colors: Orange, green, violet
• Complementary Colors: Colors opposite each other on the color wheel (e.g., red and green)
• Cool Hues: Blue-based colors like blue, violet, and green
• Warm Hues: Yellow-based colors like red, orange, and peach
• Skin Complexion Descriptors:
  • Ruddy: Red or flushed appearance
  • Sallow: Yellowish or pale appearance
• Best/Worst Colors for Skin Tones:
  • Warm Undertones (Peach/Golden): Peaches, corals, golden browns, rusts work well.
  • Cool Undertones (Bluish-Pink, Olive): Blues, violets, cherry reds, and fuchsias are flattering.
  • Neutral Colors: Suited for almost anyone, as they aren't strongly blue or yellow-based.

Preparing the Canvas

• Undertone vs. Overtone:
  • Undertone: Subtle hue under the surface (e.g., warm, cool, neutral) that doesn't change.
  • Overtone: Surface skin color that may change with seasons or conditions (e.g., redness, tanning).
• Swatching/Testing Foundation:
  • Best areas for testing: Neck or jawline.
  • Avoid testing on wrists, hands, or forehead.
• Order of Application:
  • Primer/Moisturizer
  • Skin Tone Correctors (optional)
  • Foundation
  • Concealer (before or after foundation)
  • Powder
• Objectives of Foundation:
  • Protect the skin (often contains sunscreen)
  • Even out skin tone
  • Hide imperfections
  • Create a base for makeup

Skin Tone Correctors

• Green: Cancels redness (e.g., acne or rosacea)
• Pink: Brightens dull complexions
• Lavender: Neutralizes sallowness
• Yellow/Orange: Corrects blue or greenish under-eye darkness
• Application Tips:
  • For Asian or dark skin tones, always mix with foundation.
  • Can be used before foundation or mixed with it for Caucasian skin.

Concealers

• Has higher pigment concentration than foundation
• Available in various types (pot, stick, tube)
• Uses:
  • Hide dark circles, scars, pigmentation, and skin conditions
• Application Tips
  • Apply in a stippling motion (pat to blend).
  • Yellow undertones are best for under-eye darkness.
  • Use "Hollywood V Technique" for shaping the face.

Contouring & Highlighting

• Main Objectives: Highlighting (Matte or iridescent) brings features forward, and Contouring (Matte Only) pushes areas back to create depth. Sculpting is the combination of both. Common Uses: Correcting facial proportions (e.g., short forehead, receding chin, long nose). Enhancing natural bone structure (cheekbones, jawline, nose, etc.).

Bones of the Face & Corrective Techniques

• Facial bone structure:
  • Face is made up of 14 bones
  • 13 bones are connected.
  • The mandible (lower jaw) is the only moveable facial bone.
• Zygomatic (Cheekbones): Key for contouring, found by pressing on cheek area. Enhances contouring; high cheekbones can be accentuated with highlight/shading.
• Mandible (Jawbone): Helps define jawline contour. Defines lower face; contouring can soften or sharpen jawline appearance.
• Orbital (Eye Sockets): Determines eye makeup corrections. Affects how shadows and highlights are placed around the eyes.
• Temporal (Temples): Can be contoured for a slimmer face effect. Understanding the depth assists in aging makeup or creating hollow-cheek effects.

Facial Proportions & Zones

• Three Zones of the Face:
  • Frontal Zone (Superior/Frontal) – Hairline to eyebrows
  • Middle Zone (Median/Sensitive) – Eyebrows to nose base
  • Lower Zone (Inferior/Instinctive) – Nose base to chin
• Facial Profile Types:
  • Straight: Ideal, forehead & chin aligned
  • Convex: Forehead & chin recede, middle of face more prominent
  • Concave: Forehead & chin are prominent, middle of face set back
• Oval Face Proportions
  • Ideal Face Shape
  • Width = 5 eye lengths
  • Mouth Width = Distance between irises.
  • Minimal contouring/highlighting needed.

Blush Application

• Purpose of blush: Designed to give complexion a healthy glow and serve other purposes
• General Guidelines:
  • Apply starting from outer cheek toward the center.
  • Use imaginary lines from pupil & base of the nose to determine placement.
  • Different application for different face shapes:
    • Long or Narrow Face: Apply horizontally at the cheekbone to add width.
    • Short or Round Face: Apply in diagonal/triangular shape to lengthen.
    • Square Face: Circular application to soften edges.
    • Heart Face: Square blush placement below cheekbones.
    • Pear Face: Blush low on cheeks, blend up and out toward hairline
• Lighting & Makeup
  • Different light sources affect makeup perception.
  • Adjust color choices accordingly.

Eye Makeup & Corrections

• 5 Points of Eye Analysis
  • Size: Small, average, large, prominent
  • Shape: Upturned, average, downturned
  • Spacing: Close-set, wide-set, or balanced
  • Balance: Visibility of lid, crease, and brow bone
• Corrective Eye Makeup Techniques:
  • Close-Set Eyes: Light shades inside, dark outside, extend liner outward
  • Wide-Set Eyes: Dark shades inside, light outside, bring brows closer.
  • Deep-Set Eyes: Light on lids, dark in crease, avoid upper liner.
  • Protruding Eyes: Matte, dark shades, minimal shimmer
  • Hooded Eyes: Dark on hood, highlight brow bone.

Eyebrows & Corrections

• 3 Key Brow Points
  • Start: Inner corner of eye
  • Arch: Above iris
  • End: Diagonal from nostril to outer eye corner
• Corrections:
  • Round Brow Start: Makes forehead wider, eyes appear farther apart.
  • Square Brow Start: Slenderizes nose, brings eyes closer.
  • Long Nose: Brows farther apart, arch further out
  • Short Nose: Angular brows to create length
  • Wide Nose: Brows closer together with square start
  • Narrow Nose: Brows farther apart with round square start

Key Qualities of a Successful Makeup Artist

• Artistic Skill: Ability to enhance features
• Client Engagement: Knowledge of trends & product recommendations
• Observation Skills: Assessing client's best features, skin type, tone, face shape, and problem areas.