Color Theory Basics

Color Theory

• Hue: Pure color differentiating one color from another (e.g., red vs. blue)
• Intensity: Vividness or brightness of a color
• Value: Lightness or darkness of a color
• Tint: Adding white to a color (highest value)
• Shade: Adding black to a color (lowest value)
• Tone: Adding gray to a color (middle value)
• Primary Colors: Red, blue, yellow
• Secondary Colors: Orange, green, violet
• Complementary Colors: Colors opposite each other on the color wheel (e.g., red and green)
• Cool Hues: Blue-based colors (blue, violet, green)
• Warm Hues: Yellow-based colors (red, orange, peach)
• Skin Complexion Descriptors:
  • Ruddy: Red or flushed appearance
  • Sallow: Yellowish or pale appearance
• Best/Worst Colors for Skin Tones:
  • Warm Undertones (Peach/Golden): Peaches, corals, golden browns, rusts
  • Cool Undertones (Bluish-Pink, Olive): Blues, violets, cherry reds, and fuchsias
  • Neutral Colors: Suited for most skin tones as they aren't strongly blue or yellow-based.

Preparing the Canvas

• Undertone vs. Overtone:
  • Undertone: Subtle hue under the surface (warm, cool, neutral)
  • Overtone: Surface skin color that may change with seasons/conditions (e.g., redness, tanning)
• Swatching/Testing Foundation:
  • Best areas: Neck or jawline.
  • Avoid: Wrists, hands, forehead
• Order of Application:
  • Primer/Moisturizer
  • Skin tone correctors (optional)
  • Foundation
  • Concealer (before or after foundation)
  • Powder
• Objectives of Foundation:
  • Protect skin (often contains sunscreen)
  • Even out skin tone
  • Hide imperfections
  • Create a base for makeup

Skin Tone Correctors

• Green: Cancels redness (e.g., acne, rosacea)
• Pink: Brightens dull complexions
• Lavender: Neutralizes sallowness
• Yellow/Orange: Corrects blue or greenish under-eye darkness
• Application Tips:
  • Mix with foundation for Asian or dark skin tones
  • Can also be used before or mixed with foundation for Caucasian skin

Concealers

• Higher pigment concentration than foundation
• Available in different forms (pot, stick, tube)
• Uses: Hiding blemishes, dark circles, scars, skin conditions
• Application Tips:
  • Stippling motion (patting then blending): Apply in a stippling manner to build coverage
  • Neutralize under-eye darkness: Yellow undertones

Contouring & Highlighting

• Main Objectives:
  • Highlighting (matte or iridescent): Bring out features
  • Contouring (matte only): Create depth, push areas back
  • Sculpting: Combination of highlighting and contouring
  • Common Uses: Correcting facial proportions, enhancing natural bone structure (cheekbones, jawline, etc.)

Bones of the Face & Corrective Techniques

• Zygomatic (cheekbones): Essential for contouring, found by pressing on the cheek area. Enhances contouring; high cheekbones can be accentuated with highlighting/shading.
• Mandible (jawbone): Defines jawline; contours can soften or sharpen jawlines
• Orbital (eye sockets): Impacts eye makeup correction; determines where shadows & highlights are placed
• Temporal (temples): Contours for a slimmer face effect

Facial Proportions & Zones

• Three zones:
  • Frontal (superior/frontal) : Hairline to eyebrows
  • Middle (median/sensitive): Eyebrows to nose base
  • Lower (inferior/instinctive): Nose base to chin
• Facial Profile Types:
  • Straight: Forehead and chin aligned
  • Convex: Forehead and chin recede, middle of face prominent
  • Concave: Forehead and chin prominent, middle of face set back
• Oval Face Proportions: Ideal width and length

Blush Application

• Purpose: Give complexion a healthy glow, serve secondary purposes
• General Guidelines:
  • Apply from outer cheek to center
  • Use imaginary lines from pupil to base of nose for placement
  • Different application for different face shapes:
    • Long/narrow: Horizontal at cheekbone/add width
    • Short/round: Diagonal/triangular: Lengthen
    • Square: Circular for softening
    • Heart: Square below cheekbones(lengthen)
    • Pear: Low cheeks blending out towards hairline
• Different light sources can affect makeup perception
• Adjust color choices accordingly

Eye Makeup & Corrections

• 5 Points of Eye Analysis: Size, shape, spacing, balance, color
• Corrective Makeup Techniques:
  • Close-set eyes: Lighters inside, darker outside, extend liner
  • Wide-set eyes: Darker inside, lighter outside, bring brows close
  • Deep-set eyes: Light on lids, dark in crease, avoid upper liner
  • Protruding eyes: Matte, minimal shimmer
  • Hooded eyes: Dark on hood, highlight brow bone

Eyebrows & Corrections

• 3 Key Brow Points: Start, arch, end (inner eye corner, above iris, diagonal to outer corner)
• Corrections:
  • Round brow start: Makes forehead wider, eyes farther apart
  • Square brow start: Slenderizes nose, brings eyes closer
  • Long nose: Brows farther apart, arch further out
  • Short nose: Angular brows for length
  • Wide nose: Brows closer together
  • Narrow nose: Brows farther apart

Key Qualities of a Successful Makeup Artist

• Artistic skill: Enhancing features
• Client engagement: Product knowledge and recommendations
• Observation skills: Assessing client’s best features