Classification of Dyes in Textile

Materials of Decoration

Classification of Dyes

• Acid Dyes: oldest synthetic dyes, used for dyeing wool, nylon, silk, and regenerated rayon, not fast to washing, light, and rubbing
• Basic Dyes: simplest and cheapest synthetic dyes, used for dyeing cotton, linen, and viscose rayon, not fast to washing, light, and rubbing
• Direct Dyes: achieve satisfactory fastness without a mordant, used for bright, attractive shades
• Disperse Dyes: used for coloring polyamide, polyester, and acrylic fibers, formerly called acetate dyes
• Reactive Dyes: used for cotton, linen, and viscose rayon, produce fast shades, wash, light, and perspiration fastness
• Vat Dyes: used for cotton dyeing, produce dark, fast shades
• Sulphur Dyes: used for cotton and viscose rayon, produce fast, dark shades, but not fast to chlorine

Basic Methods of Dyeing Fabrics

• Solution Dye: dyeing man-made fibers before filament formation, results in excellent color fastness
• Fiber Dye (or Stock Dye): dyeing fibers before spinning into yarn
• Yarn Dye: dyeing yarns before weaving into fabric
• Piece Dye: dyeing fabric after fabrication, also known as dip-dyeing
• Jig Dyeing: passing open fabric back and forth through a stationary dye bath
• Winch, Reel or Beck Dyeing: continuously immersing fabric without strain
• Pad Dyeing: running fabric through a dye bath and then between rollers
• Cross Dye: dyeing fabric with two or more fibers, each fiber absorbing a different dye
• Solid Dye: dyeing fabric with one fiber, one color
• Union Dye: dyeing fabric with two or more fibers, all fibers dye the same color

Fabric Design

• Structural Designs: result from the process of making the fabric, created through yarn type and arrangement, weaves, knits, and variations
• Applied Designs: added to the fabric after it's made, include printing, appliqué, free-hand painting, and more

Printing Methods

• Block Printing: oldest method of printing designs on fabrics, using carved wooden or metal blocks
• Stencil Printing: cutting designs on cardboard, wood, or metal, and applying color through the cut portions
• Burn-Out Printing: using acids to burn out one of the fibers, leaving a lacy or shear design
• Discharge or Extract Printing: removing color from the fabric to create a design
• Roller Printing: using engraved rollers to imprint designs on fabric

Other Applied Designs

• Duplex Printing: creating a design on both sides of the fabric, simulating a woven pattern
• Resist Printing: applying a resist paste to both sides of the fabric, and then dyeing
• Wax Printing: applying melted wax to the fabric, and then dyeing
• Plisse Printing: creating a design by applying chemicals and heat to the fabric
• Warp Printing: printing warp yarns before weaving into fabric

Leather

• Processed animal skin, mostly cattle, expensive due to labor-intensive processing, high rejection rate, and cost of aniline dyes
• Kinds of Hides: cattle hide, calfskin
• Categories of Leather: full-grain leather, combination tanning, finishing

Textiles

• Bamboo Fabric: made from bamboo pulp, sustainable, hypoallergenic, and durable
• Bandanna: cotton fabric with a printed design
• Barathea: rib weave fabric with a pebbly appearance
• Bark Cloth: fabric made from or simulating tree bark
• Batiste: fine, semi-sheer fabric, usually made of cotton or cotton blends
• Bedford Cord: cord cotton-like fabric with raised ridges
• Bengaline: sturdy warp-faced fabric with pronounced cross-wise ribs
• Boned: two or more fabric layers held together with adhesive
• Bouclé: fabric with a ring appearance, formed by drawn-out loop yarns
• Bourette: twill weave fabric with a dull, nubbed surface effect
• Broadcloth: tightly woven plain weave fabric with a crosswise rib
• Brocade: rich, Jacquard woven fabric with an all-over interwoven design
• Brocatelle: tightly woven jacquard fabric with a warp effect and a puffed appearance
• Buckram: ply yarn scrim fabric with a stiff finish
• Bull Denim: soft, durable denim fabric
• Burlap or Gunny: plain weave coarse fabric, usually made from jute or hemp
• Calico: plain, closely woven, inexpensive cloth with an all-over print
• Cambric: soft, white, closely woven cotton fabric
• Canton Flannel: twill fabric with a soft, brushed nap
• Coated: fabrics coated with a substance to make them longer lasting or impervious to water
• Corduroy: fabric with wales that run in the warp direction
• Crepe: lightweight fabric with a crinkly surface
• Crewels: chain stitch embroidery made with a fine, loosely twisted yarn
• Crinkle: fabric with an uneven surface, created by use of caustic soda### Fabric Types
• Crinoline: a lightweight, plain weave fabric with a low yarn count and stiffened texture.
• Crushed: a fabric treated to have a permanently crinkled, crushed, or rumpled appearance.
• Crushed Velvet: a velvet with an irregular pattern of nap going in different directions, giving a "crushed or rumpled" appearance.
• Damask: a firm, glossy, Jacquard patterned fabric similar to brocade but flatter and reversible.
• Denim: a rugged, serviceable, staple cotton cloth with a left-hand twill on the surface.
• Dimity: a thin, sheer cloth with cords or stripes woven into the fabric, easy to manipulate and launder.
• Dotted Swiss: a sheer fabric embellished with small dot motifs that may vary in color.
• Duck: a closely woven, heavy material, and the most durable fabric made, usually made of cotton.
• Faille: a ribbed cloth with a crosswise rib effect, soft and belonging to the grosgrain family.
• Felt: a compact, matted woolen material made from wool or fur often mixed with natural or synthetic fibers.
• Flame Stitch: a printed or woven fabric featuring a jagged, undulating, flame-like, multi-colored pattern.
• Flannel: a medium-weight, plain or twill weave fabric that is typically made from cotton, a cotton blend, or wool, with a soft hand and brushed on both sides.
• Flannelette: a type of fabric that is napped on one side or both sides, creating a soft fabric and providing warmth.

Materials of Decoration

• Moth-Resistant Finish: a chemical finish for wool fabrics to make them resistant to attack by moths and carpet beetles.
• Napping: a mechanical finish that raises the fiber ends to create a soft fabric and provides warmth.
• Shrink-Resistant Finish (Mechanical Method): a finish that eliminates relaxation shrinkage by overfeeding a fabric onto a dyeing frame and applying stretch.
• Slip-Resistant Finish: a finish that prevents the warp yarns from slipping along the filling yarns, giving permanent firmness to the fabric.
• Soil- and Stain-Resistant Finish: a chemical finish that repels soil and stain, making fabrics water-repellent.
• Wash and Wear or Minicare Finish: a finish that allows fabrics to dry smoothly and need little or no ironing after washing.
• Water-Repellent Finish: a chemical finish that makes a fabric resistant to wetting but not waterproof, allowing passage of air, water vapor, and perspiration.
• Waterproof Finish: a chemical finish that totally coats the fabric, making it resistant to water under all pressures.

Dyes and Dyeing

• Fabrics are available in a variety of colors and designs, with color being one of the most important aspects in fabrics.

Materials of Decoration

• Types of Hides:
  • Full-grain leather: the original grain remains, allowing the fiber strength and durability.
  • Top-grain leather: the surface pattern is removed by abrasion, making it thinner and more pliable.
  • Corrected-grain leather: an artificial grain is impressed into the surface.
  • Split leathers: the fibrous part of the hide that is left, often finished as suede.
• Other Kinds of Leather:
  • Buckskin or brained leather: a supple, suede-like hide, often smoked to prevent it from rotting.
  • Patent Leather: coated with lacquer on the final finishing process to give it its characteristic glossiness.
  • Shagreen: also known as stingray skin leather, used in furniture production.
  • Slink: leather from the skin of unborn calves, particularly soft and highly valued.
• The following are not "true" leathers, but they contain leather material:
  • Bonded leather: composed of 90% to 100% leather fibers, bonded together with latex binders.
  • Bycast Leather: a split leather with a layer of polyurethane applied to the surface, and then embossed.
• Steps in Transforming a Hide into Leather:
  • Tanning: used to preserve the hide, making the leather strong, supple, and enduring.
  • Mineral tanning: uses chromium salts, making the leather more subtle and pliable, and does not discolor or lose shape as drastically in water.