Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) PDF

Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) What is the yarn? The yarn is a continuous strand composed of either natural or manmade fibres or filaments and is used in weaving and knitting to produce cloth....

Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) What is the yarn? The yarn is a continuous strand composed of either natural or manmade fibres or filaments and is used in weaving and knitting to produce cloth. OR A yarn is defined as a product of substantial length and relatively small cross-section consisting of fibres and/or filament (s) with or without twist. Textile Product Chain Yarn Classification Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 1 of 3  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Yarn Classification Yarn Classification Yarn Classification Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 2 of 3  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Yarn Classification Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 3 of 3  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Yarn Numbering Systems Count It is the degree of fineness or coarseness of yarn. According to the Textile Institute “Count is a number of indicating the mass per unit length or length per unit mass of yarn”. Yarn Count It is defined as the weight per unit length of the yarn or the length per unit weight. Yarn Numbering Systems The system or mechanism used to calculate count is called a yarn numbering system. Types of Yarn Numbering Systems There are several count systems of yarn. These count systems are broadly divided into two primary systems. One is a direct system where length is fixed, and other one is an indirect system where weight is fixed. o Direct System (weight per unit length) o Indirect System (length per unit weight) Direct Yarn Numbering System The weight of a fixed length of yarn is determined. The weight per unit length is the yarn count. Higher is the count value, coarser is the yarn and vice versa. The following general formula is used to calculate count in the direct system: N = S x (W / L ) Where, N : Yarn Count S : S tan dard Length ( m ) W : Yarn Weight ( g ) L : Yarn Length ( m ) Types of Direct Yarn Numbering System The direct yarn numbering system is further divided into the following systems: o Tex (tex) o Denier (den) o Grex (dtex) o Grist (pounds per spindle) o Millitex (mtex) o Kilotex (ktex) o Silk Count Tex (tex) Tex is calculated as weight of yarn in grams present in 1000 metres length. It is a universal yarn count system. Therefore, this system is simple to define and easy to use. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 1 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Tex = 1000 x ( Weight in grams / Length in metres ) Denier (den) Denier is calculated as weight of yarn in grams present in 9000 metres length. Denier = 9000 x ( Weight in grams / Length in metres ) Grex (dtex) Grex is calculated as weight of yarn in grams present in 10000 metres length. Grex ( dtex ) = 10000 x ( Weight in grams / Length in metres ) Grist (pounds per spindle) The yarn number or count in grist (the pound per spindle system) is the weight in pounds of 14400 yards of yarn. Grist ( pounds per spindle ) = 14400 x ( Weight in pounds / Length in yards ) Millitex (mtex) Count in millitex system is the weight in milligrams of 1000 metres of yarn. Millitex ( mtex ) = 1000 x ( Weight in milligrams / Length in metres ) Kilotex (ktex) Count in the kilotex system is the weight in kilograms of 1000 metres of yarn. Kilotex ( ktex ) = 1000 x ( Weight in kilograms / Length in metres ) Silk Count Silk count is calculated as weight of yarn in number of drams (1/16 ounces) present in 1000 yards length. It is used for silk yarn. Silk Count = 1000 x ( Weight in drams / Length in yards ) Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 2 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Problems Problem Number 01 What will be the count in tex system of yarn having weight of 0.0050 grams and length of 0.1515 metres? Tex = 1000 x ( Weight in grams / Length in metres ) Tex = 1000 x ( 0.0050 / 0.1515) Tex = 33.00 Tex ( tex ) Problem Number 02 What will be the count in denier system of yarn having weight of 0.00050 grams and length of 0.1515 metres? Denier = 9000 x ( Weight in grams / Length in metres ) Denier = 9000 x ( 0.00050 / 0.1515 ) Denier = 30.00 Denier ( den ) Problem Number 03 What will be the count in grex system of yarn having weight of 0.00050 grams and length of 0.1515 metres? Grex ( dTex ) = 10000 x ( Weight in grams / Length in metres ) Grex ( dTex ) = 10000 x ( 0.00050 / 0.1515 ) Grex ( dTex ) = 33.00 Grex ( dtex ) Problem Number 04 What will be the count in grist (pounds per spindle) system of yarn having weight of 0.00050 lbs. and length of 0.15 yards? Grist ( pounds per spindle ) = 14400 x ( Weight in pounds / Length in yards ) Grist ( pounds per spindle ) = 14400 x ( 0.00050 / 0.15 ) Grist ( pounds per spindle ) = 48 Grist ( pounds per spindle ) Problem Number 05 What will be the count in millitex system of yarn having weight of 0.0050 milligrams and length of 0.01515 metres? Millitex = Weight in milligrams / Length in metres Millitex = 1000 x ( 0.0050 / 0.01515 ) Millitex = 330 Militex ( mtex ) Problem Number 06 What will be the count in kilotex system of yarn having weight of 0.00050 kilograms and length of 0.165 metres? Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 3 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Kilotex = 1000 x ( Weight in ki log rams / Length in metres ) Kilotex = 1000 x ( 0.00050 / 0.165 ) Kilotex = 3 Kilotex ( ktex ) Problem Number 07 What will be the silk count of yarn having weight of 0.050 drams and length of 0.165 yards? Silk Count = 1000 x ( Weight in drams / Length in yards ) Silk Count = 1000 x ( 0.050 / 0.165) Silk Count = 303.03 Silk Count Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 4 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Indirect Yarn Numbering Systems The length of a fixed weight of yarn is measured. The length per unit weight is the yarn count. When the count value is higher, then yarn will be finer. The following general formula is used to calculate count in the indirect system: N = S x (L /W ) Where, N : Yarn Count S : Standard Length / Hank ( yards ) L : Yarn Length ( yards ) W : Yarn Weight (lbs.) Types of Indirect Yarn Numbering System There are two types of indirect yarn numbering system namely as: o English Count (Ne) o Metric Count (Nm) English Count (Ne) In this system, the length unit is hanks, and the unit of weight is lbs. English Count ( Ne ) = Number of hanks /1 lbs. The length of one hank is different for different fibres. Cotton fibre = 840 Yards Worsted fibre = 560 Yards Wool fibre = 256 Yards Linen fibre = 300 Yards Aesbestos fibre = 50 Yards Types of English Count System based on different fibres There are a few types of English count system based on different fibres. o Cotton Count (NeC) o Worsted Count (NeW) o Wool Count (Ny) o Linen Count (NeL) o Asbestos Count (NeA) Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 5 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Cotton Count (NeC) Number of hanks Cotton Count ( NeC ) = 1 lbs. Where, Number of hanks = Number of yards / 840, 1 lbs. = Number of grains / 7000 Numberof yards / 840 Cotton Count ( NeC ) = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards x 7000 Cotton Count ( NeC ) = Number of grains x 840 Number of yards Cotton Count ( NeC ) = 8.33 x Number of grains Cotton Count ( NeC ) = 8.33 x Length / Weight Where, Length ( L ) in yards Weight ( W ) in grains Worsted Count (NeW) Number of hanks Worsted Count ( NeW ) = 1 lbs. Where, Number of hanks = Number of yards / 560, 1 lbs. = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards / 560 Worsted Count ( NeW ) = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards x 7000 Worsted Count ( NeW ) = Number of grains x 560 Number of yards Worsted Count ( NeW ) = 12.5 x Number of grains Worsted Count ( NeW ) = 12.5 x Length / Weight Where, Length ( L ) in yards Weight ( W ) in grains Wool Count (Ny) Number of hanks Wool Count ( Ny ) = 1 lbs. Where, Number of hanks = Number of yards / 256, 1 lbs. = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards / 256 Wool Count ( Ny ) = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards x 7000 Wool Count ( Ny ) = Number of grains x 256 Number of yards Wool Count ( Ny ) = 27.34 x Number of grains Wool Count ( Ny ) = 27.34 x Length / Weight Where, Length ( L ) in yards Weight ( W ) in grains Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 6 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Linen Count (NeL) Number of hanks Linen Count ( NeL ) = 1 lbs. Where, Number of hanks = Number of yards / 300, 1 lbs. = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards / 300 Linen Count ( NeL ) = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards x 7000 Linen Count ( NeL ) = Number of grains / x 300 Number of yards Linen Count ( NeL ) = 23.33 x Number of grains Linen Count ( NeL ) = 23.33 x Length / Weight Where, Length ( L ) in yards Weight ( W ) in grains Asbestos Count (NeA) Number of hanks Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = 1 lbs. Where, Number of hanks = Number of yards / 50, 1 lbs. = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards / 50 Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards x 7000 Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = No. of grains x 50 Number of yards Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = 140 x Number of grains Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = 140 x Length / Weight Where, Length ( L ) in yards Weight ( W ) in grains Metric Count (Nm) Metric count (Nm) indicates 1 kilometre (1000 metres) length per 1 kilogram (1000 grams) weight. Metric Count ( Nm ) = Length in kilometres / Weight in kilograms OR Metric Count ( Nm ) = Length in metres / Weight in grams Problems Problem Number 01 What will be the count in cotton count (NeC) system of yarn having length of 0.1515 yards and weight of 0.0579 grains? Cotton Count ( NeC ) = 8.33 x ( Length in yards / Weight in grains ) Cotton Count ( NeC ) = 8.33 x ( 0.1515 / 0.0579 ) Cotton Count ( NeC ) = 21.79 S or NeC or Cotton Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 7 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Problem Number 02 What will be the count in worsted count (NeW) system of yarn having length of 0.1515 yards and weight of 0.065 grains? Worsted Count ( NeW ) = 12.5 x ( Length in yards / Weight in grains ) Worsted Count ( NeW ) = 12.5 x ( 0.1515 / 0.065 ) Worsted Count ( NeW ) = 29.13 Worsted ( NeW ) Problem Number 03 What will be the count in wool count (Ny) system of yarn having length of 0.1515 yards and weight of 0.065 grains? Wool Count ( Ny ) = 27.34 x ( Length in yards / Weight in grains ) Wool Count ( Ny ) = 27.34 x ( 0.1515 / 0.065 ) Wool Count ( Ny ) = 63.72 Wool ( Ny ) Problem Number 04 What will be the count in linen count (NeL) system of yarn having length of 0.1515 yards and weight of 0.065 grains? Linen Count ( NeL ) = 23.33 x ( Length in yards / Weight in grains ) Linen Count ( NeL ) = 23.33 x ( 0.1515 / 0.065 ) Linen Count ( NeL ) = 54.37 Linen ( NeL ) Problem Number 05 What will be the count in asbestos count (NeA) system of yarn having length of 0.1515 yards and weight of 0.065 grains? Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = 140 x ( Length in yards / Weight in grains ) Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = 140 x ( 0.1515 / 0.065 ) Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = 326.23 Asbestos ( NeA ) Problem Number 06 What will be the count in metric count (Nm) system of yarn having length of 0.001515 kilometres and weight of 0.0581 kilograms? Metric Count ( Nm ) = Length in kilometres / Weight in kilograms Metric Count ( Nm ) = 0.001515 / 0.0581 Metric Count ( Nm ) = 26.08 Nm Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 8 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Comparison between Direct & Indirect Yarn Numbering Systems Direct Yarn Numbering System Indirect Yarn Numbering System It is based on weight per unit length. It is based on length per unit weight. In this system, length is fixed while In this system, weight is fixed while the weight is variable. length is variable. This yarn numbering system has a This yarn numbering system has direct relationship with the coarseness indirect relation with the coarseness of of yarn, i.e. higher is the count number yarn, i.e. higher is the count number coarser is the yarn and vice versa. finer is the yarn and vice versa. The system is generally used for The system is generally used for cotton, synthetic fibre, jute, silk, etc. worsted, linen (wet spun), etc. The count directly expresses the size of The count indirectly expresses the size the yarn. of the yarn. Length Units and Their Conversion Factors 1 millimetre ( mm ) = 0.1 centimetres ( cm ) = 0.01 decimetres ( dm ) = 0.0393 inches ( in ) = 0.0032 foots ( ft ) = 0.00109 yards ( yd ) = 0.001 metres ( m ) = 0.000001 kilometres ( km ) 1 centimetre ( cm ) = 10 millimetres ( mm ) = 0.1 decimetres ( dm ) = 0.393 inches ( in ) = 0.0328 foots ( ft ) = 0.0109 yards ( yd ) = 0.01 metres ( m ) = 0.00001 kilometres ( km ) 1 decimetre ( dm ) = 10 centimetres ( cm ) = 100 millimetres ( mm ) = 3.93 inches ( in ) = 0.328 foots ( ft ) = 0.109 yards ( yd ) = 0.1 metres ( m ) = 0.0001 kilometres ( km ) 1 inches ( in ) = 25.4 millimetres ( mm ) = 2.54 centimetres ( cm ) = 0.254 decimetres ( dm ) = 0.083 foots ( ft ) = 0.027 yards ( yd ) = 0.0254 metres ( m ) = 0.0000254 kilometres ( km ) 1 foot ( ft ) = 304.8 millimetres ( mm ) = 30.48 centimeters ( cm ) = 3.048 decimetres ( dm ) = 12 inches ( in ) = 0.33 yards ( yd ) = 0.3048 metres ( m ) = 0.0003048 kilometres ( km ) 1 yard ( yd ) = 914.4 millimetres ( mm ) = 91.44 centimetres ( cm ) = 9.144 decimetres ( dm ) = 36 inches ( in ) = 3 foots ( ft ) = 0.9144 metres ( m ) = 0.0009144 kilometres ( km ) 1 metre ( m ) = 1000 millimetres ( mm ) = 100 centimetres ( cm ) = 10 decimetres ( dm ) = 39.37 inches ( in ) = 3.28 foots ( ft ) = 1.0936 yards ( yd ) = 0.001 kilometres ( km ) 1 kilometre ( km ) = 1000000 millimetres ( mm ) = 100000 centimetres ( cm ) = 10000 decimetres ( dm ) = 39370.07 inches ( in ) = 3280.83 foots ( ft ) = 1093.61 yards ( yd ) = 1000 metres ( m ) Weight Units and Their Conversion Factors 1 grain = 64.79 milligrams ( mg ) = 6.47 centigrams ( cg ) = 0.064 grams ( g ) = 0.0365 drams ( dr ) = 0.00228 ounces ( oz ) = 0.000142 pounds ( lbs ) = 0.0000647 kilograms ( kg ) 1 milligram ( mg ) = 0.0154 grains ( gr ) = 0.1 centigrams ( cg ) = 0.001 grams ( g ) = 0.000564 drams ( dr ) = 0.0000352 ounces ( oz ) = 0.000002204 pound ( lbs ) = 0.000001 kilograms ( kg ) 1 centigram ( cg ) = 0.154 grains = 10 milligrams ( mg ) = 0.01 grams ( g ) = 0.00564 drams ( dr ) = 0.000352 ounces ( oz ) = 0.00002204 pounds ( lbs ) = 0.00001 kilograms ( kg ) 1 gram ( g ) = 1000 milligrams ( mg ) = 15.43 grains ( gr ) = 100 centigrams ( cg ) = 0.564 drams ( dr ) = 0.0352 ounces ( oz ) = 0.002204 pounds ( lbs ) = 0.001 kilograms ( kg ) 1 dram ( dr ) = 1771.84 milligrams ( mg ) = 27.34 grains ( gr ) = 177.184 centigrams ( cg ) = 1.77 grams ( g ) = 0.0625 ounces ( oz ) = 0.0039 pounds ( lbs ) = 0.00177 kilograms ( kg ) 1 ounce ( oz ) = 28349.52 milligrams ( mg ) = 437.5 grains ( gr ) = 2834.95 centigrams ( cg ) = 28.34 grams ( g ) = 16 drams ( dr ) = 0.0625 pounds ( lbs ) = 0.0283 kilograms ( kg ) 1 pound ( lb ) = 453592.37 milligrams ( mg ) = 7000 grains ( gr ) = 45359.237 centigrams ( cg ) = 453.6 grams ( g ) = 256 drams ( dr ) = 16 ounces ( oz ) = 0.453 kilograms ( kg ) 1 kilogram ( kg ) = 1000000 milligrams ( mg ) = 15432.35 grains ( gr ) = 100000 centigrams ( cg ) = 1000 grams ( g ) = 564.38 drams ( dr ) = 35.27 ounces ( oz ) = 2.204 pounds ( lbs ) Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 9 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Conversion between Different Yarn Numbering Systems There are four systems for conversion of yarn count from one system to another. o From Direct to Direct System o From Direct to Indirect System o From Indirect to Indirect System o From Indirect to Direct System Following formulas are used for these conversions. o Conversion from Direct to Direct System WK WR NR = NK x LK LR o Conversion from Direct to Indirect System LK 1 LR NR = x NK WK WR o Conversion from Indirect to Indirect System LK LR NR = NK x WK WR o Conversion from Indirect to Direct System WK 1 WR NR = x NK LK LR Where, N R = Count of required system N K = Count of known system WR = Unit weight of required system WK = Unit weight of known system L R = Unit length of required system L K = Unit length of known system Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 10 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Conversion from Direct to Direct (Denier to Tex) System WK WR NR = NK x LK LR 1g 1g Tex = Denier x 9000 m 1000 m Let in Denier System 1 x 1000 WK = Unit weight of known system = 1 g Tex = Denier x 9000 x 1 L K = Unit length of known system = 9000 m Denier Tex = 9 & in Tex System WR = Unit weight of required system = 1 g Q. Convert 27 Denier Count into Tex Count. L R = Unit length of required system = 1000 m Denier 27 Tex = = = 3 Tex 9 9 Conversion from Direct to Indirect (Denier to English) System LK 1 LR NR = x NK W K WR Let in Denier System 9000 m WK = Unit weight of known system = 1 g 1 840 yds Ne = x L K = Unit length of known system = 9000 m Denier 1g 1 lbs. (9000 x 1.0936) yds & in English System 1 840 yds Ne = x WR = Unit weight of required system = 1 lbs. Denier 0.002204 lbs. 1 lbs. L R = Unit length of required system = 840 yds 1 9000 x 1.0936 x 1 Ne = x Denier 840 x 0.002204 Q. Convert 100 Denier Count into English Count. 5316.3 Ne = 5315 5315 Denier Ne = = = 53.15 Ne Denier 100 When English Count is converted into Denier Count the constant value is 5314.96. So, we use 5315 in both cases. i.e., When English Count is converted into Denier Count and when Denier Count is converted into English Count. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 11 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Conversion from Indirect to Indirect (English to Metric) System – 1st Method LK LR NR = NK x WK WR 840 yds 1 km Let in English System Nm = Ne x 1 lbs. WK = Unit weight of known system = 1 lbs. 1 kg (840 x 0.9144) /1000 km L K = Unit length of known system = 840 yds Nm = Ne x 1 km 0.4536 kg 1 kg & in Metric System 840 x 0.9144 WR = Unit weight of required system = 1 kg Nm = Ne x 0.4536 x 1000 L R = Unit length of required system = 1 km Nm = Ne x 1.693 Q. Convert 80 English Count into Metric Count. Nm = Ne x 1.693 = 80 x 1.693 = 135.44 Nm Conversion from Indirect to Indirect (English to Metric) System – 2nd Method LK LR NR = NK x WK WR 840 yds Let in English System Nm = Ne x 1000 m 1 lbs. WK = Unit weight of known system = 1 lbs. 1000 g L K = Unit length of known system = 840 yds (840 x 0.9144) m Nm = Ne x 1000 m 453.6 g & in Metric System 1000 g WR = Unit weight of required system = 1000 g 840 x 0.9144 x 1000 Nm = Ne x L R = Unit length of required system = 1000 m 453.6 x 1000 Nm = Ne x 1.693 Q. Convert 80 English Count into Metric Count. Nm = Ne x 1.693 = 80 x 1.693 = 135.44 Nm Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 12 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Conversion from Indirect to Indirect (English to Metric) System – 3rd Method LK LR NR = NK x WK WR 840 yds Let in English System Nm = Ne x 1 km 1 lbs. WK = Unit weight of known system = 1 lbs. 1000 g L K = Unit length of known system = 840 yds (840 x 0.9144) /1000 km Nm = Ne x 1 km 453.6 g & in Metric System 1000 g WR = Unit weight of required system = 1000 g 840 x 0.9144 x 1000 Nm = Ne x L R = Unit length of required system = 1 km 453.6 x 1000 Nm = Ne x 1.693 Q. Convert 80 English Count into Metric Count. Nm = Ne x 1.693 = 80 x 1.693 = 135.44 Nm Conversion from Indirect to Indirect (English to Metric) System – 4th Method LK LR NR = NK x WK WR 840 yds Let in English System Nm = Ne x 1000 m 1 lbs. WK = Unit weight of known system = 1 lbs. 1 kg L K = Unit length of known system = 840 yds (840 x 0.9144) m Nm = Ne x 1000 m 0.4536 kg & in Metric System 1 kg WR = Unit weight of required system = 1 kg 840 x 0.9144 Nm = Ne x L R = Unit length of required system = 1000 m 0.4536 x 1000 Nm = Ne x 1.693 Q. Convert 80 English Count into Metric Count. Nm = Ne x 1.693 = 80 x 1.693 = 135.44 Nm Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 13 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Conversion from Indirect to Direct (English to Tex) System WK 1 WR NR = x NK L K LR 1 lbs. 1 1g Tex = x Ne 840 yds 1000 m 453.6 g Let in English System 1 1g WK = Unit weight of known system = 1 lbs. Tex = x Ne (840 x 0.9144) m L K = Unit length of known system = 840 yds 1000 m 1 453.6 x 1000 Tex = x Ne 840 x 0.9144 & in Tex System 590.5 WR = Unit weight of required system = 1 g Tex = Ne L R = Unit length of required system = 1000 m Q. Convert 100 English Count into Tex Count. 590.5 590.5 Tex = = = 5.905 Tex Ne 100 Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 14 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) What is Fabric? A fabric is defined as the product of textile made by the combination of yarns and/or fibres and filaments having enough strength, flexibility and cover and can take the shape of a garment. Generally, produced by the combination of yarns (woven & knitted fabrics); however, fabrics can also be made by only fibres (non-wovens). Classification/types of Fabrics Woven Fabrics o Fabrics that are made by the interlacement of two sets of yarn. Knitted Fabrics o Fabrics that are produced by transforming the yarn (s) into a loop then intermeshing the loop with it adjacent loops on both sides and above & below. Non-Woven Fabrics o Non-woven fabrics are broadly defined as sheet or web structures bonded together by entangling the fibres or filaments mechanically, thermally, or chemically. Bonded Fabrics o A non-woven fabric in which webs of fibres are held together by a bonding material. This may be an adhesive or a bonding fibre with a low melting point. Felted Fabrics o Felted fabrics are produced by matting, condensing and pressing fibres together. Tufted Fabrics o Tufted fabrics are made by the combination of: Foundation Cloth Tufts Braided Fabrics o A braided fabric is a rope like, which is made by interweaving three or more yarns in a diagonally overlapping pattern. Laced Fabrics o A laced fabric is an open work fabric made from intermeshing threads into a fabric. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 1 of 5  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Comparison between Different Fabrics Woven Fabrics o Woven fabrics are produced by the interlacment of two sets of yarns. o Sizing is required before weaving. o Yarn preparation is must. o The production capacity of the woven fabrics is less than that of knitted fabrics. o The production cost of the woven fabrics is higher. o About 48 % of the fabrics are produced by weaving techniques in the textile section. o The elastic property of the woven fabrics is less than knitted fabrics. o Dimensional stability is higher than knitted fabrics. Knitted Fabrics o Fabrics that are produced by transforming the yarn (s) into a loop then intermeshing the loop with its adjacent loops on both sides and above & below. o One set of yarn is used. o Do not require sizing. o Yarn preparation is not so necessary. o The production capacity of the knitted fabrics is more. o The production cost of the knitted fabrics is less. o About 52 % of the fabrics are produced by knitting technology in the textile section. o The elastic property of the knit fabrics is higher than woven fabrics. o Dimensional stability is lower than the woven fabrics. Non-woven Fabrics o Non-woven fabrics are not the true fabrics as they have no internal structure. o Felting and bonding techniques are used to produce the non-woven fabrics. o Woven fabrics are much stronger than non-woven fabrics. o Non-woven fabrics are mostly used for interlining or to make hats or other handicrafts. o Non-woven Fabrics do not require shedding, filling insertion and beat up. Miscellaneous Fabrics o Miscellaneous fabrics can be formed by the diagonal interlacing of yarns. o Yarn system of loops is 'sewn' or ‘stitched' through a primary backing fabric, usually a woven fabric. o Usually back-coated in a later process to secure tufted loops. o Miscellaneous Fabrics do not require shedding, filling insertion and beat up. Characteristics of Woven Fabrics Stretching is restricted both lengthwise & widthwise. Excellent covering power. Processing and handling both are easy. They have a long life. Dyeing & printing is easily carried out. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 2 of 5  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Weaving Machines The actual process of weaving, i.e. the interlacement of warp and weft is carried out on a machine called as a loom. There are several types of looms. Generally, looms are classified based on the method of weft insertion they use. Types of Weaving Machines Uses of Woven Fabrics Apparel Bed linen & tablecloths Tapestry & upholstery fabrics Curtains Towels Floor coverings as carpets, rugs & mats Filter cloths Tent fabrics Umbrella & parachute fabrics Fireproof & waterproof fabrics Space age garments like astronaut’s suits, etc. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 3 of 5  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Types of Woven Fabrics Dress fabrics Denim Terry toweling Velvets & velveteens Corduroys Leno fabrics Jacquard fabrics Brocades Damasks Woven carpets (Wilton & Brussels) Specifications of Woven Fabrics Ends per inch Picks per inch Warp count Weft count Warp & weft crimp % The weight of fabric per unit area Weave design Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 4 of 5  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 5 of 5  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Flow Process of Weaving Weaving Preparation Process Weaving preparation process consists of: o Warp Preparation Process o Weft Preparation Process Both the warp and weft yarns must undergo a series of preparation before they could be taken on the loom and woven into a fabric. The preparation of warp is much more extensive as compared to weft preparation. The weft preparatory processes depend upon the type of the loom, i.e. whether the loom is a shuttle or shuttle-less. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 1 of 1  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) The Winding Process Definition o The process of wrapping yarn on a suitable package is called winding. Package o Yarn wound on formers which facilitate convenient handling and withdrawal. o The package is a device that facilitates yarn storage in a suitable form that can be retrieved later as needed/required. Objectives of the Winding Process The main objectives of the winding process are: o To prepare a bigger package (from ring bobbins to other packages) having enough length of yarn on it. o For short or long-time storage. Sizing beams. o Doubling/Plying of yarn. o Change of cone weight as required in warping. o Change of cone to pirn/quill as required in shuttle weaving. o Change from hard wound cone to soft wound cone packages for yarn dyeing. o To remove spinning faults, e.g. thick & thin places. o Wax is also applied to the yarn to reduce the abrasion and friction during the winding process. o To produce a package of required density and shape suitable for the next stage of processing. Rule of Winding One end is fixed on a package, and other end is rotated w.r.t. fixed end around the package axis to impart coils parallel or at an angle to the diametrical plane of the package. Angles of Package Angle of Wind o The angle between a wrap of yarn on the surface of a package and the diametrical plane of the package. Angle of Crossing o The angle between two coils on the surface of the package. Angle of Reversal o Angle made by the same coil after reversal at the edge of yarn. Taper Angle o Angle made between the surface of the package to the diametrical plane package. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 1 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Traverse It is the movement of yarn from one end of the core to the other end. Traverse Ratio No. of coils wound on per complete traverse cycle. Traverse Ratio is twice the wind. Wind No. of coils of yarn wound on per single traverse from one end of the package to the other. Ring Spinning Frame producing yarn in the form of Ring Bobbins Automatic Winding Machine Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 2 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Advantages of the Winding Process It appears that the winding process has no great significance as it is a simple process where the yarn is unwound from the ring bobbins and again wound on the new package. However, this is not true, and the winding process has great significance. Suppose if we use ring bobbins and start making warper’s beam out of them, then following problems may arise: o The ring bobbins will keep on exhausting very quickly and a lot of time will be wasted in replacing the empty bobbins with new ones. Furthermore, the winding time and cost would also be quite high. o The beam prepared from ring bobbins will be full of defects, and ultimately the woven fabric will have defects and a lot of time and resources will go wasted. o Because of the thin places, the warp threads will break more frequently and thus weaving efficiency and production will suffer. Types of Packages Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 3 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Cross Wound Parallel Wound Near Parallel Wound Cope Build Cored Core-less One Yarn Multiple Yarns Flangeless (Cheese) Flanged (Spool) Taper Side (Cone) Types of Winding Machines Based on package shape, winding machines are classified into: o Spool or Cheese Winder o Cone Winders If the winding machine produces cone as a product, then it is classified as cone winder. If the winding machine produces cheeses or spools as the product then it is classified as cheese or spool winder. Based on a package built, winding machines are classified into: o Precision Winders or Spindle Driven Winders o Random Winders or Grooved Drum Winders In precision winders the package is driven directly from the spindle, so they are also called as spindle driven winders. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 4 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) In random or cross-wound winders, the package is driven by frictional contact of a grooved drum, so they are also called as grooved drum winders. Conventional Winding Machine Automatic Winding Machine Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 5 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Magazine o It is used to place the small cones for winding. Usually 12 packages can be placed in it. Balloon Breaker o It is used to avoid the formation of the balloon, which is formed by the unwinding of yarn in over end withdrawal. Tension Device o The tension device maintains a proper tension on the yarn to achieve a uniform package density. It also serves as a detector for excessively weak spots in the yarn that break under the added tension induced by the tension device. The tension of the winding machine is controlled with the help of additive tensioner. Pre-cleaner (Yarn Clearer) o The purpose of yarn Clearer is to remove thin and thick places. o Yarn Clearers are usually of two types: Mechanical Electronic ▪ A mechanical clearer is as simple as two parallel blades. The distance between the plates is adjustable to allow only a predetermined yarn diameter to pass through. It only detects and cut thick places (slubs). ▪ The electronic clearers used today is of two types: ❖ Capacitive ❖ Photoelectric In capacitive clearer, the variation in the mass of yarn passing through the plates changes the capacitance of the unit. The system measures the mass of yarn, and the signal is not based on the physical dimensions of yarn. So, two yarns having the same mass may have different diameters because of low twist and high twist in the yarn. In a photoelectric clearer, the yarn passes between a light source and photocell. Any fluctuation in yarn thickness causes a fluctuation in light intensity coming to the photocell, which changes its resistance. The signal is transferred to yarn cutter, and it cuts the yarn. Waxing o It is used to reduce the hairiness or make the yarn surface smooth for further process. Stop Motion o The purpose of stop motion is to stop the winding machine when the yarn breaks or runs out. Stop motion varies from machine to machine. Electronic stop motion simply senses the existence of yarn without mechanical contact. Splicer o The joining of two broken ends with the help of air pressure is called splicing and device responsible for it is known as a splicer. o The working principle of splicer is untwisting of broken yarn ends and then twisting of both yarn ends with air pressure. o Leading parts in splicing operation/unit are: Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 6 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Retie pipe & suction mouth Untwisting & twisting nozzles Clamp plates Yarn guide lever Yarn cutters Yarn holding lever o When the yarn is broken, or bobbin is required to change the retie pipe and suction mouth start their working. The retie pipe takes the yarn from the bobbin side, and suction mouth from cone side & both suck the yarn with the help of air suction. Yarn Take-in o The upper and lower guide levers push the yarn ends into splicer, and both ends are clamped into clamping plates. Cutting of Yarn Ends o The upper and lower yarn cutter cut the ends of the upper and lower yarns. The cutting length is adjusted according to staple length. Untwisting o The cut yarn ends are sucked into the untwisting nozzle pipes and untwisted. The yarn guide lever returns a little to allow enough length of yarn to be untwisted. The untwisting length depends upon the staple length of fibres in yarn. Splicing o The yarn guide levers push the yarn ends, and these are pulled out from the untwisting nozzles according to the length required. The yarn is pressed by yarn holding lever, and it allows splicing nozzles to let out the compressed air at the same time. So, the yarn ends are tangled and twisted to complete splicing. The untwisting pressure is 6 - 6.5 bar and twisting pressure is 5 - 6 bars. The strength of splice should be 80 - 85 % of the inherent strength of yarn. Drum o It is used for indirect winding of yarn on the package. It has grooves in it, through which yarn is passed, and it causes cross winding in the package. The surface speed of the drum is given by: Cradle o It is used to keep the package on the surface of the drum at a certain pressure. Cradle pressure is controlled with the help of the piston and cylinder. Full Package Indicator Lamp (Green lamp) o This lamp lights when a full package is detected by the yarn length counter or package sizer; the package sizer stops the package when a specific diameter/specific length is achieved. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 7 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Drum Start Button o If this button is pressed during doffing, the drum begins to rotate, and doffing is switched to automatic (the yarn length counter will be reset to zero simultaneously). Yarn Splicing Winding Machine Zones Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 8 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Types of Package Withdrawal The unwinding of the yarn from the package is called the withdrawal of the package. Two techniques are used for withdrawal of the package: o Side End Withdrawal o Over End Withdrawal Side End Package Withdrawal In this method, the package is mounted on a spindle, and the yarn is removed from its side. As long as the yarn is being removed, the package revolves. It is only suitable for slow speed machines because, at high speed, the package wobbles that can cause tension to increase. Side end withdrawal is associated with rectangular side packages. o Benefits No change in twist Less tension on yarn during unwinding o Draw Backs Slow unwinding Package needs to be rotated Over End Package Withdrawal In this method, the package is kept stationary, and the yarn is removed from the top. This method is suitable for high-speed machines. This method of withdrawal is associated with tapered packages, i.e. cones. The taper in the cone assists the efficient removal of yarn at high speed. o Benefits Package is stationary Higher unwinding speed Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 9 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) o Draw Backs Not suitable for flat, polymer, rubber and metals yarns Balloon Formation Balloon breaker required Twist change If unwinding rotation is along yarn twist, the twist is increased equal to coil removed to the length removed for each traverse, else twist is decreased. Package Drive When a yarn is wound on the package, the package will have a certain rotary speed, while the yarn being wound will have a certain linear or surface speed. The surface speed of the yarn is given by: For uniform package winding and to keep the tension on the yarn constant, the surface speed of the yarn must remain constant throughout package formation. The drive given to the package on a winding machine can be of two types: o Positive or Direct Drive o Negative or Indirect Drive Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 10 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Positive or Direct Drive In this method, the package is directly driven by motors using gears, shafts, pulleys, etc. The rotary speed of the package remains constant throughout the package built. The main disadvantage is that as the diameter of the package increases, the surface speed of the yarn also increases that causes the tension on the yarn to increase. To keep the surface speed of the yarn constant, PIV gears are used. Negative or Indirect Drive In this method, the package is indirectly driven by a driving motor through frictional contact. The main advantage is that the surface speed of the yarn remains constant throughout winding. The disadvantage is that the yarn can get damaged due to frictional contact. This method of the drive cannot be used for delicate yarns. Yarn Joining Two methods of yarn joining are used: o Knotting The old method of yarn joining. Can create problems in knitting and weaving. o Splicing Introduced in the 1970 s. Splice is formed using compressed air. Splice joint is virtually invisible. Knotted V/S Spliced Yarn Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 11 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Winding Production Calculations Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 12 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 13 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 14 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) The Warping Process Definition o “Warping is transferring of many yarns from a creel of single-end packages forming a parallel sheet of yarn and wound it onto a beam”. o To combine the yarn from individual packages in the form of a sheet on to a warper’s beam is called warping. o Raw material: Cone/cheese/spool. o Final product: Warper’s beam/ball. Objectives of the Warping Process The main objectives of the warping process are: o To collect large number of required yarns from the winding package onto the beam. o By means of warping, different nature or different colours of yarns can be collected on the beam according to the required arrangement. o Winding of a specific type of package as required by the subsequent process, i.e. warper’s beam, ball. Types of the Warping Process or Warping Machines There are four types of warping, which are as follows: o High-speed (direct) warping o Sectional (indirect) warping o Ball (for denim) warping o Draw (heat set) warping High-speed (Direct) Warping In high-speed (direct) warping, the yarns are withdrawn from the single-end yarn packages on the creel and directly wound on a beam. In simple warping, yarns of same colour and type are collected directly on the beam. Since, this type of warping deals with the same type of yarns, so, its speed is quite high and that is why it is also called as high-speed warping. In simple or high-speed warping, a single warper’s beam contains a fraction of the total ends required in the weaver’s beam. So, more than one warper’s beams are made which are collected together later in the sizing process to get the required ends. For Example, 9000 warp yarns are required in a fabric and each warper’s beam has 1000 yarns then we will have to make total 9 warper’s beam. Later on, these warper’s beams are collected together in sizing. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 1 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 2 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Major parts of High-speed (Direct) Warping Machine Nowadays, the most commonly used direct warping machine is “Karl Mayer” (previously named as “Benninger”). High-speed (direct) warping machine is classified into two portions: o Creel o Headstock Creel It is an arrangement (frame) to hold the supply packages for warping onto a beam. There are two types of creel w. r. t. shape. o V-shape creel o H-shape creel V-shape creel is used for high-speed warping. The major parts of creel in “Karl Mayer” warping machine are: o Vertical columns (rods) o Spindles o Tension rods o Yarn brake o Stop-motion sensors o Cutters o Drive arrangement Vertical Columns (Rods) Each wing of creel consists of number of vertical rods. Number of rods are approximately double than the creel capacity in duplicate creel. Creel capacity is determined with the help of number of rods & spindles/rod. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 3 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Spindles It is support for fixing the yarn package on a creel. It is fitted at certain angle ranges from 2 - 3 degrees. Tension Rods It is a device which keeps the yarn under constant tension so that yarn is kept stretched. Two tension rods are used for tensioning mechanism; one is movable & the other one is stationary. The movable rods are fitted in metallic rails. Multiplicative tension is applied with these rods. Tension is applied or released with the help of movable rod. The relative distance b/w two rods is controlled with the help of pneumatic cylinder & piston arrangement. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 4 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Yarn Brake It is used to stop the movement of an individual yarn when any warp yarn is broken. One thread brake is used for one thread. It avoids entanglement of yarn at breakage. It is fitted in stop motion assembly. Signal lamps are used on the front of creel and relevant tensioner post to indicate the broken warp yarn so that it can be identified and replaced/repaired easily. Stop-motion Sensors These can be either in lever type or optical type sensors. o Lever type sensor The lever has soft surface to reduce friction on yarn. It is fitted in the stop-motion assembly, which is connected to the photoelectric cell. When yarn breaks, lever falls, the circuit is completed & the machine is stopped. o Optical type sensor This sensor consists of a transmitter and a receiver. The yarn passes between the two. Due to the movement of yarn, there will be no change in the intensity of light, which indicates the presence of yarn. When yarn breaks, there is a change in the intensity of light due to the absence of yarn, and ultimately machine will stop. Cutters Two cutter levers are used to separate the yarns from the packages when creel exhausts. The cutter lever is moved from the front of the creel to the back of the creel. Creel Movement Drive The empty portion of creel is replaced by the loaded portion by drive arrangement. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 5 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Each vertical rod is connected to a sprocket chain, at top and bottom of the vertical rod. These vertical rods are given drive from two slow speed motors through sprocket gears. Spindle Pitch It is the distance (horizontal & vertical) between two consecutive spindles. It determines the maximum package size that can be used. Headstock The major component of the warping machine that helps to rotate and winds the warp sheet on warper’s beam is called headstock. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 6 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Objectives of Headstock Main objectives of the headstock are: o To wind the warp sheet onto the beam. o To control the tension on warp yarns. o To control warping speed. o To apply the brake to get the desired beam hardness (compactness). o To do even yarn distribution over the whole width of the beam. Major parts of the headstock in “Karl Mayer” warping machine are: o Comb o Guide roller o Warping beam o Pressing drum Comb It is of zig-zag shape, used to cover the whole width of warper’s beam with yarns. It also separates the warp yarns uniformly. Three types of movements are performed by the comb to increase its life: o Up & down movement o Horizontal movement o Traversing movement Guide Roller The guide roller has smooth polished surface and helps to direct the warp sheet from creel towards the beam. A hydraulic brake system is fitted on one side of it to stop the guide roller. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 7 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Warping beam/Warper’ s beam It is the yarn package on which warp sheet is wounded. It is directly driven by a motor and a hydraulic brake system is installed on both sides to stop on any yarn breakage. Pressing Drum/Warping Drum The pressing drum is used to make the beam compact and helps in the cylindrical build-up of the beam. It also measures the length of yarn wounded on the beam. It can move forward or backward to attach or detach with the beam. This movement is facilitated by a hydraulic system. The pressing drum lifts-off immediately at the beam brake, to avoid friction with the yarn sheet, eliminating the chances of damage to yarn. Wind Shield It is used to protect the warper’s beam during the warping process from any foreign element like fluff, dust etc. It also protects the warping operator from headstock during the warping process. It starts its operation automatically as soon as the warping machine starts. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 8 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Creel Capacity It is the maximum number of yarn packages that can be mounted on the creel in running position. Creels with a capacity of up to 1296 are available currently. No. of rods No. of spindles Creel capacity = 2 x x Wing Rod The zig-zag comb can expand or contract, which defines the maximum and minimum creel capacity. Max. Creel Capacity The number of comb dents in the front of warping beam, when the comb is compressed maximum. Min. Creel Capacity The number of comb dents in the front of warping beam, when the comb is expanded maximum. Creel Angle (θ) It is the angle between two wings of V-type creel and normally ranges from 30° - 35°. Wing Angle (α) It is the angle of one wing of creel with the central axis of machine or creel. It is half of the creel angle. Set The required number of warper’s beams with required number of ends and the specific length is called as set of warp/warp set. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 9 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Sectional (indirect) Warping Sectional warping is also known as indirect, pattern, band warping or drum warping. It is suitable for all patterned warp fabrics, e.g., stripes and checks. Sometimes, this process is carried out for 2-ply synthetic yarns where no sizing is needed. It is a two-stage warping method (namely as warping and beaming) in which yarns of required length are first collected on the drum (swift) and are then transferred onto a beam in required arrangement mostly used for yarn dyed fabrics. This special arrangement of the coloured yarns such collected is called as stages, sections or pattern. Warping is done from the creel to drum. Beaming is done from drum to warper’ s beam. Creel capacity is small as compared to direct warping. The drum/swift is tapered at a slight angle to prevent slippage of yarn. A higher taper angle will reduce the package stability. The yarns are laid section-wise starting from the conical base side. The taper of the base supports the first section and the subsequent sections are supported by the taper formed by the preceding section. Each section has specific number of ends depending upon the repeat. There can be more than one count/colour in one section. The sections are traversed on the drum during warping along the width of the section to form an angle. Length of yarn is measured with measuring roller. The amount of yarn wound on the beam is proportional to: o Length of yarn (direct relation) o Number of ends/section (indirect relation) o Cone angle (direct relation) Number of sections depends upon: o Creel capacity (indirect relation) o Total number of ends in warp sheet (direct relation) When all the sections have been wounded, they are removed simultaneously and wounded on warper’s beam which may or may not be taken for sizing. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 10 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Sectional (indirect) Warping Machine Major parts of Sectional Warping Machine The sectional warping machine just like the direct warping machine has two portions: o Creel o Headstock Creel Parallel (H-type) type creel is mostly used for this warping machine as it is a slow speed process. Usually, mobile creel is preferred due to a patterned/coloured repeat of yarns. Special care is required while loading the cones on creel according to repeat. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 11 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Headstock Headstock of sectional warping machine is different from that of direct warping machine. Here, the yarn passage is from creel through the leasing rod to the leasing comb (reed) and then to the section comb (traversing or final comb). From final (warping) comb, the yarn passes over the guide or measuring roller then onto the sectional warping drum (swift/drum/dresser). When all the required number of ends in the shape of sections are wounded on the drum or the swift, the upper ends of all the sections are taken out from the drum in the shape of a sheet. This warp sheet is then transferred onto the weaver’s or the warping beam. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 12 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) The headstock of the section warping machine has the following parts: o Leasing/dividing rods o Leasing comb o Carriage o Swift/drum/dresser Leasing/Dividing Rods Its function is only to separate the yarns into two portions to ease out the leasing process. Leasing Comb This reed is to permit the warp yarns passing through it to be separated into sheets suitable for lease formation. It has alternate open and block dents. Sometimes, more complicated arrangements are used to segregate yarns specially the coloured/fancy yarns, into more than 2 sheets. Carriage Sometimes, it is also termed as section carrier trolley. It is a movable arrangement carrying the following parts: o Section reed o Measuring roller o Tension and guide roller o Touch screen panel o Oil box Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 13 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Section Reed Section reed is used to control the section width and to avoid threads overlapping in between the completion of one section and starting the other section. It’s another function is to move the section laterally along with the drum surface for section building. Measuring Roller It measures the length of the section wound on the swift. It is always necessary that the length of each section wound on the swift should be equal. Tension and Guide Roller This is a set of two chromium plated rollers which give proper tension to the sections. An evener roller is also present to compress the warp section over the drum to achieve perfect and even warp layer during warping. Touch Screen Panel It is used to feed the warp specifications like section ends, length, width, etc. Oil Box It is used to apply spindle oil in 100% polyester filament and terry towel just like waxing. Motions of Carriage Carriage has two types of motions: o Traverse motion o Movement of section Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 14 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Traverse Motion Slow traverse motion parallel to the drum axis. It is called “feed,” and it makes the yarn layer (section) to climb up the cone. It allows the leasing of yarn on cone and leasing of next section on the previous section. Movement of Section It causes to move the carriage along section width at section change. Swift/Drum/Dresser It is composed of a steel cylinder, hollow from inside, with a diameter of about 50"- 60". In old machines, wooden swifts were used. Its main function is to wrap the small sections before transferring onto the beam. It’s one side is tapered at some angle. The taper angle depends upon: o Yarn count o Yarn type o Ends/cm Machine Parameters Parameters Specifications Working width 2300 mm - 3600 mm Warping speed 600 m/min Beaming speed 160 m/min Drum diameter 1000 mm Section width 20 mm - 360 mm Creel capacity 720 Cone angle 7◦, 9◦, 12◦ Package Withdrawal and Beam Doffing All the sections that are wounded over the drum are doffed onto the beam by beaming process as follows: o Turn the switch from warping to beaming. o Set an empty beam in the beaming section and an adhesive tape is applied/pasted over the beam barrel and rotate the beam manually. o Set beam flange (beam space) according to measured/calculated beam space. o Set winding tension (1 - 6 Newtons). o Run at crawl speed to see alignment by drum alignment switch. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 15 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) o Set the winding speed within a range of 1 - 160 m/min, depending on yarn quality. o Run the m/c with run switch/start button. o Doff the beam by unloading switch. o Warping data sheet is filled as a production record. o A warping data sticker is pasted on each beam for the identification purpose in the next process. Differences between Direct & Sectional Warping Parameters Direct warping Sectional warping It is generally used to produce warp It is generally used to produce warp Object /Use beam for griege fabric or solid colour beam for yarn dyed (check/stripe) fabric. fabric. Method of Several warper’s beams are produced One warper’s beam is produced here production here for getting one weaver's beam. for getting one weaver's beam. Ends/beam is less here. Direct Ends/beam is higher. Sectional No. of warping beams contain 1/N No. of warping beam contains equal no. of Ends/beam ends of weaver’s beam. ends as weaver’s beam. (N = Number of warping beam/set). Two-stage Production (yarns are Stage of One-stage Production (yarns are directly wound on warping drum production directly wound on warper’s beam). section by section; then the sheet is transferred to warper’s beam). Yarn tension is comparatively higher Yarn tension is comparatively lower Yarn tension than sectional warping. than direct warping. Length of yarn in the beam is Yarn length Higher length of yarn is wound on a comparatively lower than direct on beam beam. warping. Creel Usually higher than sectional warping. Usually lower than direct warping. capacity Sizing One sized beam is produced from One sized beam is produced from one operation several No. of warper’s beam. warper’s beam. Efficiency is comparatively lower than Efficiency is higher than sectional Efficiency direct warping (one additional warping (single stage operation). operation beaming-off is required). Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 16 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Ball Warping “Ball warping is the process in which warping is performed in rope form onto balls.” A ball warped beam is prepared for subsequent process. It is suitable for denim fabric manufacturing, involving rope dyeing process. It is also a 2-stage process. Ball Warping Machine In ball warping, 350 - 500 yarn ends are pulled from the creel. The yarns then pass through a comb-like device (reed), which keeps each warp yarn separate and parallel to its neighbouring ends. At intervals of every 1000 or 2000 yards, a lease string is placed across the sheet of warp yarns to aid yarn separation. The yarns then go through a funnel-shaped device called a trumpet or condenser, which collapses and condenses the sheet of yarn into rope form. The rope is wound onto a long cylinder called as “log” on a machine called as a ball warper. Indigo/Sulphur dyeing will take place in rope form. Re-beaming is done to convert the rope dyed warp yarn, stored in cans, into warper’s beams. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 17 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 18 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 19 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Warping Production Calculations Production by Length Calculated Production yds = Warping Rate( yds / min ) x 60 x th Warping Rate( yds /min) x 60 x th x Eff. Actual Production yds = 100 Production by Weight Warping Rate( yds / min) x 60 x th x Ew Calculated Production lbs = 840 x Ne Warping Rate( yds / min) x 60 x th x Ew x Eff. Actual Production lbs = 840 x Ne x 100 Where, th = Time in hours Ew = No. of Ends of a warped beam Eff. = Machine Efficiency for the said time period in hours Ne = English Count Warping Rate =  DN Where, D = Diameter of Warping Drum ( yards ) N = R.P.M. of Machine (Warping Drum ) Actual Production Efficiency % = x 100 Calculated Production Q. Calculate the calculated , and actual production of a warping machine in Length and Weight , if Warping Rate = 1200 mtrs / hr., Efficiency = 90% , English Count ( Ne ) = 30 S , Time = 8 Hours , Total Ends = 9000 1200 x 1.0936 Warping Rate = yds / min 60 Warping Rate = 21.872 yds / min Calculated Production yds = Warping Rate( yds / min.) x 60 x th Calculated Production yds = 21.872 x 60 x 8 Calculated Production yds = 10498.56 yds Warping Rate( yds /mins.) x 60 x t h x Eff. Actual Production yds = 100 21.872 x 60 x 8 x 90 Actual Production yds = 100 Actual Production yds = 9448.704 yds Warping Rate( yds / min) x 60 x th x Ew Calculated Production lbs = 840 x Ne 21.872 x 60 x 8 x 9000 Calculated Production lbs = 840 x 30 Calculated Production lbs = 3749.485 lbs Warping Rate( yds / min) x 60 x th x Ew x Eff. Actual Production lbs = 840 x Ne x 100 21.872 x 60 x 8 x 9000 x 90 Actual Production lbs = 840 x 30 x 100 Actual Production lbs = 3374.537 lbs Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 20 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Types of Creels W.r.t Shape o H-shaped creel (rectangular/parallel) o V-shaped creel W.r.t Construction o Mobile creel (truck/trolley) o Swivel creel (rotating frame creel) o Magazine creel H-shaped Creel (rectangular/parallel) Wings are parallel to each other. Yarns may touch each other. Suitable for slow speed warping. V-shaped Creel Wings/arms are placed at a certain angle. Yarns do not touch. Suitable for high-speed warping. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 21 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Mobile Creel (truck/trolley) This creel type is similar to the standard creel but is formed by trolleys which can be taken individually out of the creel. The bobbins are creeled up on each trolley outside the creel. During the creeling up of a series of trolleys, the second series of trolleys is brought back to the outside of the creel to feed the warper. This reduces considerably the waiting time. The mobile creel comes in handy especially when there is insufficient room to permit the use of two standard creels. Magazine Creel This kind of creel is used when several warps of similar type are prepared in sequence. Level with each tensioner, two bobbins are positioned: one operating and the other as reserve. Swivel Frame Creel (rotating frame creel) This type of creel was designed as a variation of mobile creel to enable the creeling up of heavy weight cones, which cannot be pinned on trolleys. Each bobbin holder is double-sided. The threads are unwound from one side, while a new series of bobbins is creeled on the other side. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 22 of 23  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 23 of 23