2. Yarn Numbering Systems.pdf

Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Yarn Numbering Systems Count It is the degree of fineness or coarseness of yarn. According to the Textile Institute “Count is a number of indicati...

Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Yarn Numbering Systems Count It is the degree of fineness or coarseness of yarn. According to the Textile Institute “Count is a number of indicating the mass per unit length or length per unit mass of yarn”. Yarn Count It is defined as the weight per unit length of the yarn or the length per unit weight. Yarn Numbering Systems The system or mechanism used to calculate count is called a yarn numbering system. Types of Yarn Numbering Systems There are several count systems of yarn. These count systems are broadly divided into two primary systems. One is a direct system where length is fixed, and other one is an indirect system where weight is fixed. o Direct System (weight per unit length) o Indirect System (length per unit weight) Direct Yarn Numbering System The weight of a fixed length of yarn is determined. The weight per unit length is the yarn count. Higher is the count value, coarser is the yarn and vice versa. The following general formula is used to calculate count in the direct system: N = S x (W / L ) Where, N : Yarn Count S : S tan dard Length ( m ) W : Yarn Weight ( g ) L : Yarn Length ( m ) Types of Direct Yarn Numbering System The direct yarn numbering system is further divided into the following systems: o Tex (tex) o Denier (den) o Grex (dtex) o Grist (pounds per spindle) o Millitex (mtex) o Kilotex (ktex) o Silk Count Tex (tex) Tex is calculated as weight of yarn in grams present in 1000 metres length. It is a universal yarn count system. Therefore, this system is simple to define and easy to use. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 1 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Tex = 1000 x ( Weight in grams / Length in metres ) Denier (den) Denier is calculated as weight of yarn in grams present in 9000 metres length. Denier = 9000 x ( Weight in grams / Length in metres ) Grex (dtex) Grex is calculated as weight of yarn in grams present in 10000 metres length. Grex ( dtex ) = 10000 x ( Weight in grams / Length in metres ) Grist (pounds per spindle) The yarn number or count in grist (the pound per spindle system) is the weight in pounds of 14400 yards of yarn. Grist ( pounds per spindle ) = 14400 x ( Weight in pounds / Length in yards ) Millitex (mtex) Count in millitex system is the weight in milligrams of 1000 metres of yarn. Millitex ( mtex ) = 1000 x ( Weight in milligrams / Length in metres ) Kilotex (ktex) Count in the kilotex system is the weight in kilograms of 1000 metres of yarn. Kilotex ( ktex ) = 1000 x ( Weight in kilograms / Length in metres ) Silk Count Silk count is calculated as weight of yarn in number of drams (1/16 ounces) present in 1000 yards length. It is used for silk yarn. Silk Count = 1000 x ( Weight in drams / Length in yards ) Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 2 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Problems Problem Number 01 What will be the count in tex system of yarn having weight of 0.0050 grams and length of 0.1515 metres? Tex = 1000 x ( Weight in grams / Length in metres ) Tex = 1000 x ( 0.0050 / 0.1515) Tex = 33.00 Tex ( tex ) Problem Number 02 What will be the count in denier system of yarn having weight of 0.00050 grams and length of 0.1515 metres? Denier = 9000 x ( Weight in grams / Length in metres ) Denier = 9000 x ( 0.00050 / 0.1515 ) Denier = 30.00 Denier ( den ) Problem Number 03 What will be the count in grex system of yarn having weight of 0.00050 grams and length of 0.1515 metres? Grex ( dTex ) = 10000 x ( Weight in grams / Length in metres ) Grex ( dTex ) = 10000 x ( 0.00050 / 0.1515 ) Grex ( dTex ) = 33.00 Grex ( dtex ) Problem Number 04 What will be the count in grist (pounds per spindle) system of yarn having weight of 0.00050 lbs. and length of 0.15 yards? Grist ( pounds per spindle ) = 14400 x ( Weight in pounds / Length in yards ) Grist ( pounds per spindle ) = 14400 x ( 0.00050 / 0.15 ) Grist ( pounds per spindle ) = 48 Grist ( pounds per spindle ) Problem Number 05 What will be the count in millitex system of yarn having weight of 0.0050 milligrams and length of 0.01515 metres? Millitex = Weight in milligrams / Length in metres Millitex = 1000 x ( 0.0050 / 0.01515 ) Millitex = 330 Militex ( mtex ) Problem Number 06 What will be the count in kilotex system of yarn having weight of 0.00050 kilograms and length of 0.165 metres? Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 3 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Kilotex = 1000 x ( Weight in ki log rams / Length in metres ) Kilotex = 1000 x ( 0.00050 / 0.165 ) Kilotex = 3 Kilotex ( ktex ) Problem Number 07 What will be the silk count of yarn having weight of 0.050 drams and length of 0.165 yards? Silk Count = 1000 x ( Weight in drams / Length in yards ) Silk Count = 1000 x ( 0.050 / 0.165) Silk Count = 303.03 Silk Count Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 4 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Indirect Yarn Numbering Systems The length of a fixed weight of yarn is measured. The length per unit weight is the yarn count. When the count value is higher, then yarn will be finer. The following general formula is used to calculate count in the indirect system: N = S x (L /W ) Where, N : Yarn Count S : Standard Length / Hank ( yards ) L : Yarn Length ( yards ) W : Yarn Weight (lbs.) Types of Indirect Yarn Numbering System There are two types of indirect yarn numbering system namely as: o English Count (Ne) o Metric Count (Nm) English Count (Ne) In this system, the length unit is hanks, and the unit of weight is lbs. English Count ( Ne ) = Number of hanks /1 lbs. The length of one hank is different for different fibres. Cotton fibre = 840 Yards Worsted fibre = 560 Yards Wool fibre = 256 Yards Linen fibre = 300 Yards Aesbestos fibre = 50 Yards Types of English Count System based on different fibres There are a few types of English count system based on different fibres. o Cotton Count (NeC) o Worsted Count (NeW) o Wool Count (Ny) o Linen Count (NeL) o Asbestos Count (NeA) Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 5 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Cotton Count (NeC) Number of hanks Cotton Count ( NeC ) = 1 lbs. Where, Number of hanks = Number of yards / 840, 1 lbs. = Number of grains / 7000 Numberof yards / 840 Cotton Count ( NeC ) = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards x 7000 Cotton Count ( NeC ) = Number of grains x 840 Number of yards Cotton Count ( NeC ) = 8.33 x Number of grains Cotton Count ( NeC ) = 8.33 x Length / Weight Where, Length ( L ) in yards Weight ( W ) in grains Worsted Count (NeW) Number of hanks Worsted Count ( NeW ) = 1 lbs. Where, Number of hanks = Number of yards / 560, 1 lbs. = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards / 560 Worsted Count ( NeW ) = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards x 7000 Worsted Count ( NeW ) = Number of grains x 560 Number of yards Worsted Count ( NeW ) = 12.5 x Number of grains Worsted Count ( NeW ) = 12.5 x Length / Weight Where, Length ( L ) in yards Weight ( W ) in grains Wool Count (Ny) Number of hanks Wool Count ( Ny ) = 1 lbs. Where, Number of hanks = Number of yards / 256, 1 lbs. = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards / 256 Wool Count ( Ny ) = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards x 7000 Wool Count ( Ny ) = Number of grains x 256 Number of yards Wool Count ( Ny ) = 27.34 x Number of grains Wool Count ( Ny ) = 27.34 x Length / Weight Where, Length ( L ) in yards Weight ( W ) in grains Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 6 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Linen Count (NeL) Number of hanks Linen Count ( NeL ) = 1 lbs. Where, Number of hanks = Number of yards / 300, 1 lbs. = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards / 300 Linen Count ( NeL ) = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards x 7000 Linen Count ( NeL ) = Number of grains / x 300 Number of yards Linen Count ( NeL ) = 23.33 x Number of grains Linen Count ( NeL ) = 23.33 x Length / Weight Where, Length ( L ) in yards Weight ( W ) in grains Asbestos Count (NeA) Number of hanks Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = 1 lbs. Where, Number of hanks = Number of yards / 50, 1 lbs. = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards / 50 Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = Number of grains / 7000 Number of yards x 7000 Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = No. of grains x 50 Number of yards Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = 140 x Number of grains Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = 140 x Length / Weight Where, Length ( L ) in yards Weight ( W ) in grains Metric Count (Nm) Metric count (Nm) indicates 1 kilometre (1000 metres) length per 1 kilogram (1000 grams) weight. Metric Count ( Nm ) = Length in kilometres / Weight in kilograms OR Metric Count ( Nm ) = Length in metres / Weight in grams Problems Problem Number 01 What will be the count in cotton count (NeC) system of yarn having length of 0.1515 yards and weight of 0.0579 grains? Cotton Count ( NeC ) = 8.33 x ( Length in yards / Weight in grains ) Cotton Count ( NeC ) = 8.33 x ( 0.1515 / 0.0579 ) Cotton Count ( NeC ) = 21.79 S or NeC or Cotton Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 7 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Problem Number 02 What will be the count in worsted count (NeW) system of yarn having length of 0.1515 yards and weight of 0.065 grains? Worsted Count ( NeW ) = 12.5 x ( Length in yards / Weight in grains ) Worsted Count ( NeW ) = 12.5 x ( 0.1515 / 0.065 ) Worsted Count ( NeW ) = 29.13 Worsted ( NeW ) Problem Number 03 What will be the count in wool count (Ny) system of yarn having length of 0.1515 yards and weight of 0.065 grains? Wool Count ( Ny ) = 27.34 x ( Length in yards / Weight in grains ) Wool Count ( Ny ) = 27.34 x ( 0.1515 / 0.065 ) Wool Count ( Ny ) = 63.72 Wool ( Ny ) Problem Number 04 What will be the count in linen count (NeL) system of yarn having length of 0.1515 yards and weight of 0.065 grains? Linen Count ( NeL ) = 23.33 x ( Length in yards / Weight in grains ) Linen Count ( NeL ) = 23.33 x ( 0.1515 / 0.065 ) Linen Count ( NeL ) = 54.37 Linen ( NeL ) Problem Number 05 What will be the count in asbestos count (NeA) system of yarn having length of 0.1515 yards and weight of 0.065 grains? Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = 140 x ( Length in yards / Weight in grains ) Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = 140 x ( 0.1515 / 0.065 ) Asbestos Count ( NeA ) = 326.23 Asbestos ( NeA ) Problem Number 06 What will be the count in metric count (Nm) system of yarn having length of 0.001515 kilometres and weight of 0.0581 kilograms? Metric Count ( Nm ) = Length in kilometres / Weight in kilograms Metric Count ( Nm ) = 0.001515 / 0.0581 Metric Count ( Nm ) = 26.08 Nm Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 8 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Comparison between Direct & Indirect Yarn Numbering Systems Direct Yarn Numbering System Indirect Yarn Numbering System It is based on weight per unit length. It is based on length per unit weight. In this system, length is fixed while In this system, weight is fixed while the weight is variable. length is variable. This yarn numbering system has a This yarn numbering system has direct relationship with the coarseness indirect relation with the coarseness of of yarn, i.e. higher is the count number yarn, i.e. higher is the count number coarser is the yarn and vice versa. finer is the yarn and vice versa. The system is generally used for The system is generally used for cotton, synthetic fibre, jute, silk, etc. worsted, linen (wet spun), etc. The count directly expresses the size of The count indirectly expresses the size the yarn. of the yarn. Length Units and Their Conversion Factors 1 millimetre ( mm ) = 0.1 centimetres ( cm ) = 0.01 decimetres ( dm ) = 0.0393 inches ( in ) = 0.0032 foots ( ft ) = 0.00109 yards ( yd ) = 0.001 metres ( m ) = 0.000001 kilometres ( km ) 1 centimetre ( cm ) = 10 millimetres ( mm ) = 0.1 decimetres ( dm ) = 0.393 inches ( in ) = 0.0328 foots ( ft ) = 0.0109 yards ( yd ) = 0.01 metres ( m ) = 0.00001 kilometres ( km ) 1 decimetre ( dm ) = 10 centimetres ( cm ) = 100 millimetres ( mm ) = 3.93 inches ( in ) = 0.328 foots ( ft ) = 0.109 yards ( yd ) = 0.1 metres ( m ) = 0.0001 kilometres ( km ) 1 inches ( in ) = 25.4 millimetres ( mm ) = 2.54 centimetres ( cm ) = 0.254 decimetres ( dm ) = 0.083 foots ( ft ) = 0.027 yards ( yd ) = 0.0254 metres ( m ) = 0.0000254 kilometres ( km ) 1 foot ( ft ) = 304.8 millimetres ( mm ) = 30.48 centimeters ( cm ) = 3.048 decimetres ( dm ) = 12 inches ( in ) = 0.33 yards ( yd ) = 0.3048 metres ( m ) = 0.0003048 kilometres ( km ) 1 yard ( yd ) = 914.4 millimetres ( mm ) = 91.44 centimetres ( cm ) = 9.144 decimetres ( dm ) = 36 inches ( in ) = 3 foots ( ft ) = 0.9144 metres ( m ) = 0.0009144 kilometres ( km ) 1 metre ( m ) = 1000 millimetres ( mm ) = 100 centimetres ( cm ) = 10 decimetres ( dm ) = 39.37 inches ( in ) = 3.28 foots ( ft ) = 1.0936 yards ( yd ) = 0.001 kilometres ( km ) 1 kilometre ( km ) = 1000000 millimetres ( mm ) = 100000 centimetres ( cm ) = 10000 decimetres ( dm ) = 39370.07 inches ( in ) = 3280.83 foots ( ft ) = 1093.61 yards ( yd ) = 1000 metres ( m ) Weight Units and Their Conversion Factors 1 grain = 64.79 milligrams ( mg ) = 6.47 centigrams ( cg ) = 0.064 grams ( g ) = 0.0365 drams ( dr ) = 0.00228 ounces ( oz ) = 0.000142 pounds ( lbs ) = 0.0000647 kilograms ( kg ) 1 milligram ( mg ) = 0.0154 grains ( gr ) = 0.1 centigrams ( cg ) = 0.001 grams ( g ) = 0.000564 drams ( dr ) = 0.0000352 ounces ( oz ) = 0.000002204 pound ( lbs ) = 0.000001 kilograms ( kg ) 1 centigram ( cg ) = 0.154 grains = 10 milligrams ( mg ) = 0.01 grams ( g ) = 0.00564 drams ( dr ) = 0.000352 ounces ( oz ) = 0.00002204 pounds ( lbs ) = 0.00001 kilograms ( kg ) 1 gram ( g ) = 1000 milligrams ( mg ) = 15.43 grains ( gr ) = 100 centigrams ( cg ) = 0.564 drams ( dr ) = 0.0352 ounces ( oz ) = 0.002204 pounds ( lbs ) = 0.001 kilograms ( kg ) 1 dram ( dr ) = 1771.84 milligrams ( mg ) = 27.34 grains ( gr ) = 177.184 centigrams ( cg ) = 1.77 grams ( g ) = 0.0625 ounces ( oz ) = 0.0039 pounds ( lbs ) = 0.00177 kilograms ( kg ) 1 ounce ( oz ) = 28349.52 milligrams ( mg ) = 437.5 grains ( gr ) = 2834.95 centigrams ( cg ) = 28.34 grams ( g ) = 16 drams ( dr ) = 0.0625 pounds ( lbs ) = 0.0283 kilograms ( kg ) 1 pound ( lb ) = 453592.37 milligrams ( mg ) = 7000 grains ( gr ) = 45359.237 centigrams ( cg ) = 453.6 grams ( g ) = 256 drams ( dr ) = 16 ounces ( oz ) = 0.453 kilograms ( kg ) 1 kilogram ( kg ) = 1000000 milligrams ( mg ) = 15432.35 grains ( gr ) = 100000 centigrams ( cg ) = 1000 grams ( g ) = 564.38 drams ( dr ) = 35.27 ounces ( oz ) = 2.204 pounds ( lbs ) Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 9 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Conversion between Different Yarn Numbering Systems There are four systems for conversion of yarn count from one system to another. o From Direct to Direct System o From Direct to Indirect System o From Indirect to Indirect System o From Indirect to Direct System Following formulas are used for these conversions. o Conversion from Direct to Direct System WK WR NR = NK x LK LR o Conversion from Direct to Indirect System LK 1 LR NR = x NK WK WR o Conversion from Indirect to Indirect System LK LR NR = NK x WK WR o Conversion from Indirect to Direct System WK 1 WR NR = x NK LK LR Where, N R = Count of required system N K = Count of known system WR = Unit weight of required system WK = Unit weight of known system L R = Unit length of required system L K = Unit length of known system Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 10 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Conversion from Direct to Direct (Denier to Tex) System WK WR NR = NK x LK LR 1g 1g Tex = Denier x 9000 m 1000 m Let in Denier System 1 x 1000 WK = Unit weight of known system = 1 g Tex = Denier x 9000 x 1 L K = Unit length of known system = 9000 m Denier Tex = 9 & in Tex System WR = Unit weight of required system = 1 g Q. Convert 27 Denier Count into Tex Count. L R = Unit length of required system = 1000 m Denier 27 Tex = = = 3 Tex 9 9 Conversion from Direct to Indirect (Denier to English) System LK 1 LR NR = x NK W K WR Let in Denier System 9000 m WK = Unit weight of known system = 1 g 1 840 yds Ne = x L K = Unit length of known system = 9000 m Denier 1g 1 lbs. (9000 x 1.0936) yds & in English System 1 840 yds Ne = x WR = Unit weight of required system = 1 lbs. Denier 0.002204 lbs. 1 lbs. L R = Unit length of required system = 840 yds 1 9000 x 1.0936 x 1 Ne = x Denier 840 x 0.002204 Q. Convert 100 Denier Count into English Count. 5316.3 Ne = 5315 5315 Denier Ne = = = 53.15 Ne Denier 100 When English Count is converted into Denier Count the constant value is 5314.96. So, we use 5315 in both cases. i.e., When English Count is converted into Denier Count and when Denier Count is converted into English Count. Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 11 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Conversion from Indirect to Indirect (English to Metric) System – 1st Method LK LR NR = NK x WK WR 840 yds 1 km Let in English System Nm = Ne x 1 lbs. WK = Unit weight of known system = 1 lbs. 1 kg (840 x 0.9144) /1000 km L K = Unit length of known system = 840 yds Nm = Ne x 1 km 0.4536 kg 1 kg & in Metric System 840 x 0.9144 WR = Unit weight of required system = 1 kg Nm = Ne x 0.4536 x 1000 L R = Unit length of required system = 1 km Nm = Ne x 1.693 Q. Convert 80 English Count into Metric Count. Nm = Ne x 1.693 = 80 x 1.693 = 135.44 Nm Conversion from Indirect to Indirect (English to Metric) System – 2nd Method LK LR NR = NK x WK WR 840 yds Let in English System Nm = Ne x 1000 m 1 lbs. WK = Unit weight of known system = 1 lbs. 1000 g L K = Unit length of known system = 840 yds (840 x 0.9144) m Nm = Ne x 1000 m 453.6 g & in Metric System 1000 g WR = Unit weight of required system = 1000 g 840 x 0.9144 x 1000 Nm = Ne x L R = Unit length of required system = 1000 m 453.6 x 1000 Nm = Ne x 1.693 Q. Convert 80 English Count into Metric Count. Nm = Ne x 1.693 = 80 x 1.693 = 135.44 Nm Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 12 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Conversion from Indirect to Indirect (English to Metric) System – 3rd Method LK LR NR = NK x WK WR 840 yds Let in English System Nm = Ne x 1 km 1 lbs. WK = Unit weight of known system = 1 lbs. 1000 g L K = Unit length of known system = 840 yds (840 x 0.9144) /1000 km Nm = Ne x 1 km 453.6 g & in Metric System 1000 g WR = Unit weight of required system = 1000 g 840 x 0.9144 x 1000 Nm = Ne x L R = Unit length of required system = 1 km 453.6 x 1000 Nm = Ne x 1.693 Q. Convert 80 English Count into Metric Count. Nm = Ne x 1.693 = 80 x 1.693 = 135.44 Nm Conversion from Indirect to Indirect (English to Metric) System – 4th Method LK LR NR = NK x WK WR 840 yds Let in English System Nm = Ne x 1000 m 1 lbs. WK = Unit weight of known system = 1 lbs. 1 kg L K = Unit length of known system = 840 yds (840 x 0.9144) m Nm = Ne x 1000 m 0.4536 kg & in Metric System 1 kg WR = Unit weight of required system = 1 kg 840 x 0.9144 Nm = Ne x L R = Unit length of required system = 1000 m 0.4536 x 1000 Nm = Ne x 1.693 Q. Convert 80 English Count into Metric Count. Nm = Ne x 1.693 = 80 x 1.693 = 135.44 Nm Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 13 of 14  Textile Institute of Pakistan, Karachi. TEXT202 (Fabric Technology) Conversion from Indirect to Direct (English to Tex) System WK 1 WR NR = x NK L K LR 1 lbs. 1 1g Tex = x Ne 840 yds 1000 m 453.6 g Let in English System 1 1g WK = Unit weight of known system = 1 lbs. Tex = x Ne (840 x 0.9144) m L K = Unit length of known system = 840 yds 1000 m 1 453.6 x 1000 Tex = x Ne 840 x 0.9144 & in Tex System 590.5 WR = Unit weight of required system = 1 g Tex = Ne L R = Unit length of required system = 1000 m Q. Convert 100 English Count into Tex Count. 590.5 590.5 Tex = = = 5.905 Tex Ne 100 Prepared By: Shakeel Ahmad Paracha Page 14 of 14