Wildlife Getaways in Arunachal Pradesh (PDF)

Traveller getaways arunachal pradesh nature & wildlife  Traveller getaways...

Traveller getaways arunachal pradesh nature & wildlife  Traveller getaways Editorial Business Office EDITOR Amit Dixit CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Indranil Roy PROJECT EDITOR Sanjiv Valsan CONSULTING EDITOR Lasya Nadimpally Advertisements CMS EXECUTIVE Benny Joshua VICE PRESIDENT Sameer Saxena MANAGER Rakhi Puri First Edition 2019 Copyright © Outlook Publishing (India) Private Limited, New Delhi. Research Circulation All Rights Reserved ResearchERS Ranee Sahaney, Sharon George, Lima Parte NATIONAL HEAD Anindya Banerjee Design Production ART DIRECTOR Deepak Suri GENERAL MANAGER Shashank Dixit Disclaimer ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR Kapil Taragi MANAGER Sudha Sharma No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or DEPUTY MANAGER Ganesh Sah Senior GRAPHIC DESIGNER Rajesh KG transmitted in any form or means electronic, mechanical, photocopying, ASSISTANT MANAGER Gaurav Shrivas recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of Outlook Publishing (India) Private Limited. Brief text quotations with use of photographs are Photography exempted for book review purposes only Senior PHOTO RESEARCHER As every effort is made to provide accurate and up-to-date information in this Raman Pruthi publication as far as possible, we would appreciate if readers would call our attention to any errors that may occur. 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A-256, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-1, For updates, news and new destinations, log on to our website New Delhi-110020 www.outlooktraveller.com 2 3 contents INTRODUCTION 8 Destinations WESTERN ARUNACHAL n Pakke Tiger Reserve 22 n Western Arunachal 38 —A Birder’s Diary CENTRAL ARUNACHAL n Talley Valley Wildlife Sanctuary, 58 Ziro n Yordi Rabe Supse Sanctuary 64 n Shi Yomi District 76 n Nguda Pokcho 86 EASTERN ARUNACHAL n The Dibang Valley 92 n Kamlang Tiger Reserve 96 n Namdapha Tiger Reserve 104 Features n High-Altitude Teas 124 n Lesser-Known Fauna Of 128 Arunachal Pradesh iNformation n Travel Essentials 138 n Tourist Wildlife Offices 150 n Tour Operators 151 n Adventure Tour Operators 152 n Forest Resthouses 156 n Homestays 158  narendra bisht shutterstock Alamy images / india picture guneet narula nature & wildlife nature & wildlife Namdapha NP; Himalayan serow; Monpa tribe; great pied hornbill Introduction introduction introduction you. Wildlife travel in before the concept of ‘tiger N ortheast India’s larg- any other state in India; new Arunachal is more of an reserves’ even existed; est, northernmost species are discovered here immersive wilderness expe- exceptional sightings can and greenest state, every year, making it a rience, engaging not just still be had even in private and one of the world’s Mecca for wildlife enthusi- with animals through a long or community-managed for- greatest biodiversity asts, scientists and research- lens or pair of binoculars, ests, unlike in other parts of hotspots, Arunachal Pradesh ers. Even with such rich but also the forests and trib- India. Like everywhere else, is over 80 per cent forest, mammalian diversity, spot- al cultures that call them times and values are chang- and accounts for a signifi- ting animals, especially the home, than a conventional ing here too. The state’s cant portion of India’s natu- four big cats, tiger, leopard, series of bucket-lists and many impressive parks will ral wealth. With just 2.54 snow leopard and clouded fauna checklists. hopefully take the conserva- per cent of India’s land area, leopard, in these areas can Most forests here have tion tradition into the future; Arunachal has at least 23 be difficult, because of the traditionally been managed for the explorer, these pro- per cent of the country’s denseness of foliage and responsibly by the ancestors tected areas are a great flowering plants, over half of difficulty in reaching core of the local tribes, with strict starting point for some India’s bird species and areas due to rugged terrain. rules against cutting old really wild adventures in the more mammal density than It’s likelier that they will spot trees or killing big cats, way sunrise state. 8 9  shutterstock sanjiv valsan 1. Namdapha Tiger best place in Arunachal. Reserve Elephants and gaur can be nature & wildlife nature & wildlife Namdapha is the oldest seen in the clearings, and tiger reserve of the state, the evenings ring with the and is of the few protected anxious alarm calls of the forests in the world to have skittish Barking Deer. all the four big cats—tiger, common leopard, clouded 3. Kamlang Tiger Reserve leopard and snow leopard— Located in the mystic land- in one place. With an altitu- scape of the Mishmi Hills, dinal range from 200m to An Asian elephant Kamlang is one of the less 4571m above sea level, explored tiger reserves of Namdapha has huge floral 2. Pakke Tiger Reserve the state; there is also the Route to Anini and faunal diversity. Flocks Located in the East Kameng Glaw Lake (Glow Lake) here. introduction introduction of hornbills nesting on fig district, Pakke is one of the The entry is through Wakro 4. Dibang Wildlife trees running into dozens most visitor-friendly wildlife town, famous for its orange Sanctuary, Anini Forest are a common sight. areas of the state and is a orchards and tea gardens. Division part of the forest that con- Relatively unknown previ- Gaur tinues from Assam’s Nameri Ramsing tea gardens ously, Dibang has been Tiger Reserve, with drawing national attention approaches to the park from with the discovery of 11 Northern, Eastern and tigers in 2018. Dibang Western sides. According to Valley is inhabited by the official records, the tiger Idu Mishmi tribe, who have reserve hosts 103 species of been acknowledged for mammals, 256 species of their traditional conserva- birds, 31 species of tion practices. Access to the amphibians and 45 reptile sanctuary may be through species. For sighting the town of Anini. From lowland mammals, in gener- there on, you’ll need to trek al, Pakke is probably the and camp in tents. shutterstock sanjiv valsan 10 11  Anoko mega Alamy images / india picture 6. Eaglenest Wildlife Pasighat and Dibrugarh. For Sanctuary, Shergaon accommodation, there’s a nature & wildlife nature & wildlife This unique area is host to forest rest house at Likabali. the Bugun liocichla, a bird found nowhere else in the 8. Yordi Rabe Supse world. The sanctuary also Sanctuary, West Siang has other globally threat- Arunachal’s least-known ened species like the red sanctuary is probably its panda, clouded leopard and best-kept secret. With lush the Himalayan Serow. The tropical evergreen river val- sanctuary, accessed through leys towards one end, and the Tenga town, is also Galo tribe mist-covered forests and home to rare butterflies like rugged snow-covered peaks the Ludlow’s Bhutan glory, 7. Kane Wildlife on the other, this huge, pris- introduction introduction Tibetan Brimstone and also Sanctuary, Likabali some rare orchids. It’s a Among the local Galo tribe, Yordi Rabe Supse Sanctuary pleasant two-day detour for Kane is associated with sto- Mehao Lake visitors going to Bomdila ries of supernatural phe- and Tawang. nomena that are said to 5. Mehao Wildlife abound there. The sanctu- Sanctuary, Roing Rufous-breasted accentor ary also has numerous The most convenient way to patches of forest, beautiful experience Mehao Wildlife old trees, which have been sanctuary is the two-day maintained as sacred Mehao Lake trek. The groves by the locals, which approach to the sanctuary is have not seen human pres- through the town of Roing, ence in years. The sanctuary the headquarters of the can be approached from Lower Dibang Valley district, Likabali, and Silapathar which is less than two hours town is the closest railhead. away from Dibrugarh. The closest airports are at arjun kamdar sanjiv valsan 12 13  Courtesy easter frontier tours & travels tine and untouched forest glory and Brown gorgon, might just turn out to be and researchers say that 12. Daying Ering nature & wildlife nature & wildlife known as the next big bio- this is the only forest in the Memorial Wildlife diversity hotspot in the world where all the three Sanctuary, Pasighat region, once further docu- species can be found in Daying Ering Memorial mentation happens. The the same place. Wildlife Sanctuary, the first outsiders to ever enter Since butterflies are an only protected wildlife this vast jungle conducted indicator species of floral area of the state that is an expedition here as biodiversity, this fact sug- situated on an island, recently as 2018, and the gests that Talley’s ecosys- can be quite interesting first tiger was documented tem is totally unique. for birding enthusiasts. the same month, suddenly Ganga Lake in Itanagar Surrounded on three putting the sanctuary on the 11. Mouling National sides by the mighty elite ‘high-altitude tiger’ spots left, like Ganga Lake Park and the ‘Dihang Siang River, the sanctu- introduction introduction map, along with the cloud and various riverbanks that Dibang Biosphere ary has the presence of forests of Dibang Valley and are popular picnic and fish- Reserve (DDBR)’ many globally threat- Bhutan. ing spots. Mouling National Park is ened grassland birds part of the core area of the such as the black-breast- 9. Itanagar Wildlife 10. Talley Valley Wildlife massive ‘Dihang Dibang ed parrotbill, swamp Sanctuary, Itanagar Sanctuary, Ziro Valley Biosphere Reserve (DDBR)’, prinia and Jerdon’s bab- Surprisingly, there’s an offi- Talley sanctuary is a gem which sprawls over 5,000 bler. This protected area cial sanctuary around that was recently discovered sq km from the Dibang is also part of a larger Itanagar town, with Pam through a collaborative Wildlife Sanctuary to the elephant corridor. Due River in the East, Pachin in effort between the Forest Payum town in Siang dis- to its topography, the South, Neorochi on the Department, scientists and trict. The interiors of the Daying Ering is best Northeast and Chingke community-based organisa- park have not yet been seen by boat. A visit to stream in the North forming tions. Like Namdapha, explored and information D Ering also allows a its boundaries. Urbanisation Talley is famed for its about the interiors of the peek into the rich cultur- pressure has depleted most diversity of butterflies, forest is from the traditional al heritage of the local of the wildlife, but there are including rare varieties such accounts of the local Adi tribe, the Adis. still some peaceful green as the Kaiser-e-hind, Bhutan tribe. The area can current- 14 15  sanjiv valsan guneet narula 13.Kamala Wildlife 15. Lal Aane CR, Arung Sanctuary, Daporijo CR, Martak Riang nature & wildlife nature & wildlife Spread over 77 sq km, adja- Community Reserves, cent to the Kamala Reserve Sagalee Forest, Kamala Sanctuary is Community reserves are a located in the newly created recent initiative taken up by Kamle district. The nearest the forest department for town to reach here is Raga more inclusive management which is about 100km from of the state’s forest wealth, Daporijo. This still-raw sanc- involving the local tribes as tuary is yet to see its first partners in the conservation non-native visitors, and lies process. The Lal Aane, unexplored for the most Arung and Martak Riang A view of Anini part. The closest railhead Elephant in Pakke Tiger Reserve community reserves are introduction introduction for visiting the sanctuary is ly be accessed by travellers Naharlagun. 14. Sessa Orchid Dance of the Nyishi mostly as village treks and Sanctuary cultural experiences, and Scene from Naharlagun market As the name suggests, this local festivals such as one’s for the orchid lovers. Unying Giidi and Solung With some 200 orchid spe- with the local Adi communi- cies, including five new and ties in the park’s fringe areas endemic species and 100 sq through different villages on km of protected area, its periphery. These are Sessa’s forest is connected accessed from Boleng town, with a larger protected area in Siang district, which is including Eaglenest, Pakke, connected by road to Nameri, and Sonai Rupai Pasighat airport. The closest sanctuaries, forming the railhead is Murkongselek, Kameng Protected Area near the Assamese town Complex (KPAC), which is of Jonai. an elephant reserve. sanjiv valsan Alamy images / india picture 16 17  located near the Sagalee drive away from Dibrugarh, town, Papum Pare district, the closest airport. Very few nature & wildlife and a three-hour drive from wildlifers or travellers have Itanagar. Along with local been here so far. treks, the reserve offers a good opportunity to experi- 17. Singchung Bugun ence the culture of the local Village Community Reserve Nyishi tribe. (SBVCR), Shergaon This community reserve was 16. Banfera Longnakshi awarded the prestigious CR, Wanu CR, Longding India Biodiversity Award in The Banfera and Longnakshi 2018 for the conservation community reserves are efforts of the Bugun com- located in the heartland of munity for the rare Bugun introduction the Wancho tribe, closely liocichla, a bird endemic to related to the Konyak tribe the area. SBVCR is adjacent across the border in to Eaglenest, and forms the Nagaland, as well as tribes core of the larger conserva- across the nearby Myanmar tion area on the lands of the border. Foreign tourists Bugun, the local tribe might require special per- inhabiting the area. mission to enter this border area, if they are allowed at all. The entire area between Amalgamating traditional knowledge of the tribe with modern principles of con- Wildlife Aassam’s Joypur Rainforest to Tirap, Longding and servation, the project has been instrumental in the In arunachal pradesh northern Nagaland is a conservation of the bird. major elephant corridor. The The reserve is accessed community reserve can be through Tenga town, which approached through is well connected to Tezpur Department of Tourism Longding town, a six-hour and Guwahati. Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] 18 follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm pakke tiger reserve nature & wildlife western arunachal pakke tiger reserve nature & wildlife  Pakke Tiger Reserve nature & wildlife nature & wildlife Devathi Parashuram ing and hilly terrain in the south and mountainous A n evening in Seijosa, ranges in the north. The alti- separated from the tudinal gradient ranges from Pakke Tiger Reserve 100m to 2,000m above sea by the Pakke River, typically level. The reserve can be involves enjoying a cup of accessed from two points— lal chai as you watch the sun Seijosa on the southern set and wait for wreathed boundary and Tippi on the hornbills to make an western boundary. pakke tiger reserve pakke tiger reserve appearance. Soon enough and from a distance, you Hornbill Haven will hear the whoosh- Hornbills are magnificent whoosh of their wingbeats, birds, often referred to as as they fly across the river to ‘farmers of the forest’ roost in large numbers— because of the crucial role sometimes over a hun- that they play. By consum- dred—on trees in and ing fruits and dispersing the around the villages of seeds far and wide, they Seijosa, on the fringe of the help the forest grow and tiger reserve. It’s an experi- spread, making them vital ence you never grow tired to the health of the ecosys- of, even if you’ve been liv- tem. Pakke is a haven for ing and working here as a hornbills, home to four of conservationist for years. India’s nine species—the Pakke is situated in the foot- largest being the great hills of the Eastern hornbill, followed by the Himalayas with an undulat- wreathed and rufous-necked 22 23  guneet narula hornbills, and the oriental pied hornbill. nature & wildlife nature & wildlife Apart from sightings of wreathed and oriental pied hornbills coming in to roost in the evening, you can expect to see them as well as great hornbills inside the tiger reserve. The globally endangered rufous-necked hornbills are harder to spot, since they are found at higher elevations in the pakke tiger reserve pakke tiger reserve northern parts of the park. A black-crested bulbul (facing page); and a hornbill Conservation Efforts with the Nyishi community the first step by enforcing a nity for conservation, both Although hornbills are an ban on hunting of hornbills inside and on the fringe important cultural symbol and other wildlife. Next, the areas of the park. This is for many tribes across the local Forest Department also when the Ghora-Aabhe Northeast, they are severely and Wildlife Trust of India Society was formed, a local threatened by hunting and started distributing artificial NGO comprising of Gaon habitat loss. Arunachal hornbill beaks to replace Burrahs (village headmen) Pradesh is one of their last the real ones being used in from different villages in strongholds due to higher traditional headgear. Seijosa, who became part- forest cover and lower After the extremely able ners in wildlife conservation, human pressures. Seijosa Tana Tapi took over as conducting awareness cam- has a history of wildlife con- Divisional Forest Officer of paigns and other activities. servation that dates back to Pakke Tiger Reserve in All of these efforts laid 2003, when the dominant 2006, he won greater sup- the ground for the award- Nyishi tribe in the area took port from the local commu- winning Hornbill Nest Saniya Chaplod 24 25  Khem Thapa Adoption Programme trees of hornbills in forests (HNAP), which began in around their villages in nature & wildlife nature & wildlife 2012 as a partnership Seijosa. Funds raised from between the Nature urban donors who ‘adopt’ Conservation Foundation hornbill nests go towards (Mysore), Arunachal Pradesh paying their salaries. There Forest Department and the are currently 11 local Nest Ghora-Aabhe Society. Protectors monitoring and HNAP is a community- protecting 38 hornbill nests. based conservation initia- 119 hornbill chicks have tive, through which local successfully fledged from Nyishi villagers are these nests from 2012 to employed to protect nest 2018. Although illegal log- pakke tiger reserve pakke tiger reserve ging and occasional hunting A binturong do occur, there is hope and The Himalayan palm civet constant effort to minimise these threats. squirrels along branches. motion sensors) set up Researchers have been annually in the winter by the Mammals fortunate enough to spot a Forest Department staff Pakke is home to a rich binturong not once but have captured elusive ani- array of wildlife, although twice during the day, fast mals such as the marbled whether you spot them or asleep on a horizontal cat, clouded leopard, tiger, not boils down to sheer branch (they emit a charac- leopard, melanistic leopard luck. Elephants, sambar, teristic, strong smell similar (or black panther), dhole barking deer, gaur, wild pig to popcorn). I have also wit- (wild dog), jackal, large are commonly encountered nessed a Himalayan palm Indian civet, Himalayan along forest roads and trails. civet asleep in the crook of black bear, yellow-throated Also keep an eye out for a tree during the daytime in marten, otters and more. A capped langurs, rhesus and the Pakke Tiger Reserve. ferret badger was also Assamese macaques in the Camera traps (remotely recorded in Pakke for the canopy and Malayan giant triggered cameras with first time in 2018. Saniya Chaplod 26 27 Wildlife In arunachal pradesh A semi-domesticated bovine, Mithun is special to the tribes of Arunachal! Festivals, food, tradition, economy, Mithun is present in every walk of life here. Department of Tourism Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh Itanagar, Arunachal Pradesh, India Phone: +91-360-2214745 | E-mail: [email protected] follow us on Arunachal Tourism @ArunachalTsm  Tali Nabam Walking along sandy ing the globally endangered riverbanks and dry white-winged wood duck nature & wildlife nature & wildlife streambeds, you will also and the unique ibisbill. see plenty of animal tracks Birders will be most delight- and they sometimes tell ed when mixed-species interesting stories, like the flocks arrive, cacophonously leopard tracks that I once flitting from tree to tree in found, seemingly hot on the forest patches. These flocks heels of a sambar. have a diverse assemblage of species like nuthatches, Birds warblers, flycatchers, etc. Over 350 species of birds with racket-tailed drongos are found in Pakke, includ- as their leader and sentinel. pakke tiger reserve pakke tiger reserve Some of the really inter- Butterfly species of Arunachal esting birds in Pakke include the red-headed trogon, A parrot plays with a flower while another looks on long-tailed broadbill (which can also be seen and heard of them coming all the way turtle, and 30 amphibian in the villages), pied fal- to Seijosa with the sole aim species, including the pied conet, Asian fairy bluebird, of photographing the pair. warty frog which resembles blue-winged siva, and long- bird droppings, have also tailed nightjar. Common Other Wildlife been reported in the park. birds of prey include the Pakke is also home to over Also keep an ear out for crested serpent eagle, 500 species of butterflies the characteristic mating call rufous-bellied eagle, orien- and moths, including rare of the tokay gecko (which tal honey buzzard, and species such as the abor sounds like a loud croak Asian barred owlet. freak, red caliph and paint- and from which it derives its Recently, a pair of Blyth’s ed courtesan. About 36 name), a large and strikingly kingfishers have sent wildlife species of reptiles, including beautiful arboreal species, photographers all over the the king cobra and highly which can also sometimes country into a frenzy, many endangered Assam roofed be heard in the villages. Photograph: Saniya Chaplod 30 31  Saniya Chaplod Plants tion. One of them is locally The forest type ranges from known as Bhelu, which nature & wildlife nature & wildlife semi-evergreen to ever- stands out due to its sheer green with about 350 size and large buttresses, recorded species of woody which provide stability to its flowering plants in the lower towering structure. This spe- areas of the park. If you cies is important for horn- consider the entire park, the bills who nest in its natural- expected number of vascu- ly-formed cavities. lar plant species is at least Another hard-to-miss 1,500, with about 500 of tree is Banderdima or the them being woody. hanging ball tree, conspicu- While in the forest, there ous because of its large pakke tiger reserve pakke tiger reserve are certain trees that will spherical fruits that hang in certainly catch your atten- bunches. When ripe, the The dense forests of Pakke Tiger Reserve fruits open up to expose Banderdima fleshy orange-coated seeds, and monkeys, and whose Eaglenest Wildlife which attract a lot of large leaves are used to build Sanctuary and Sessa birds like hornbills and roofs in traditional Nyishi Orchid Sanctuary imperial pigeons. Outenga houses. Moist areas near About a five-hour drive (115 or elephant apple is sought nalas have a profuse growth km) from Tippi is the after by elephants and of bamboo and cane. If you Eaglenest Wildlife humans alike, with its large walk along one, remember Sanctuary, a birding haven, succulent fruits which ripen to also look out for orchids and on the way there, you and fall to the ground. It’s hanging from the branches can pay a visit to the Sessa common to find outenga of other trees. Pakke offers Orchid Sanctuary, part of seeds germinating in piles a spectacular array of differ- the Kameng Protected Area of elephant dung. ent kinds of orchids, with Complex (KPAC), an ele- On steep slopes, you will flowers that can range from phant reserve. Access the see Tokko palms, whose showy and ornamental to sanctuary through Tippi. fruits are fed on by hornbills tiny and inconspicuous. Some orchids flower from Navendu Page 32 33  arjun kamdar September to February semi-evergreen to subtropi- while others from March to cal forests. With around 600 nature & wildlife nature & wildlife September. So in general, species of birds, its density the orchids of Arunachal is second only to the east- Pradesh are in bloom ern slopes of the Andes. throughout the year. The community-based con- Eaglenest, famous for its servation project here is bird diversity, is 218 sq km now run and protected by of forest on the western the local Bugun tribe, boundary of Arunachal, thanks to the efforts of Dr forming a corridor extend- Ramana Athreya and his ing towards Bhutan, with team of conservationists. tropical wet evergreen and pakke tiger reserve pakke tiger reserve Nature Interpretation A dollar bird Centres Snow partridges in the Eaglenest sanctuary Seijosa and Tippi both have Nature Interpretation the park), the Butterflies & Rafting Centres which are worth Moths of Pakke Tiger The Kameng River is a checking out. The one in Reserve field guide, T-shirts major tributary of the Seijosa is lined with elegant and a whole lot of other Brahmaputra and offers posters full of fascinating merchandise. Grade I to IV rapids, ideal information about the flora for amateurs and experts. and fauna of Pakke. The Bird and butterfly walks There are plenty of rafting one in Tippi is more colour- Visitors can go on bird and tours on offer. ful and interactive, ideal for butterfly walks with local younger children. Entry is nature guides (they are Where to stay free and there is merchan- available throughout the dise for sale at both places, year as well; contact Hotels and tourist lodges including the handy Birds of Mr Suresh Pait at are available in Bhalukpong Pakke brochure (which lists +91-9402037005 and town, but we would recom- 138 familiar birds found in +91-8416090151). mend staying at the Tippi siddhartha sharma 34 35  guneet narula Forest Rest House, which boasts a scenic location on nature & wildlife nature & wildlife the banks of the Kameng River. The Bhalukpong Ghat anti-poaching camp (where you can also opt to stay) and the western side of the Tiger Reserve can be accessed after crossing over on boat. You can either stay in Seijosa and visit the Tiger Reserve or stay inside the pakke tiger reserve pakke tiger reserve park, for which the following options exist. Khari Forest Rest House, 12 km inside A machan high up in a tree; Wreathed hornbills (facing page) the park, can be reached in 30 minutes by vehicle or in dry streams which are great below. Contact Mr Tagi 3 hours on foot. You can to explore because of the Heyo (+91-8134864034) for opt to stay at the Rest plant diversity along the rates and bookings. House or in tents. The tents edges. They are also good are a better option to con- places to spot birds and Electricity: Seijosa is nect with the sights, sounds excellent mud-puddling notorious for unpredictable and fragrances of the forest. sites for butterflies. Lanka power cuts. The Forest Rest For Khari, carry your own Rest House is 14 km away Houses inside Pakke Tiger food rations. from the park and located Reserve have solar-powered The Forest Rest House at on the other side of the lights but no way to charge West Bank is located at the Pakke River in Lanka village, electronic devices. Carry entrance to the Tiger Seijosa, offering some nice power banks or use the Reserve. Sukanala and Jaali birding trails and views of opportunity to go on a nala are nearby seasonally Pakke and the river down digital detox. Saniya Chaplod 36 37  Western Arunachal nature & wildlife nature & wildlife —a Birder’s diary Arjun Kamdar fondness for beehives. Though not proven, legend W ithin minutes of has it that it leads mammals leaving the hap- like honey-badgers and hazard Assamese bears to the beehives in town of Tezpur in the south, order to feast on all the the cemented structures squishy grubs that fall out give way to the dense green from the hives when the forest of Nameri Tiger mammals plough through Reserve to the east. Spurred them for honey! birding birding by the sightings of black- Almost as soon as you shouldered kites, we began cross over into Arunachal scanning the telephone from the sleepy town of wires that ran parallel to the Bhalukpong, the dusty, cra- road in the hope of sighting ter-ridden highway is sur- a migratory Amur falcon rounded by a sea of green perched on one of them, comprising vibrant ferns, also stopping every few kil- long-leafed wild bananas, ometres at select streams in palms and moss on both search of the diminutive sides of the road. The occa- Blyth’s kingfisher and scour- sionally flowering bat flower ing the massive rock walls plant (Tacca sp), with its pur- dotted with beehives for the ple-black flowers and long elusive yellow-rumped hon- white whiskers, dots the eyguide, a bird that derives edges, creating an ethereal its name because of its atmosphere, almost as 38 39  arjun kamdar though the road is attempt- signboards that advocate ing to bound the wilder- road safety with their hilari- nature & wildlife nature & wildlife ness. While crossing the ous couplets like ‘on my innumerable suspension curve, check your nerve’ or bridges that rattle and rum- ‘mind your brakes or break ble under the wheels, you your mind’! get a glimpse of the calm- ing turquoise blue of the Eaglenest Wildlife Kameng River that flows Sanctuary through the valley, forming As you veer north towards the peripheral boundary of Eaglenest from the army Pakke Tiger Reserve. The cantonment of Tenga, the road is replete with ‘BRO’ tar road disappears. After (Border Roads Organisation) completing the entry A lone bird of prey at the Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary birding birding Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary procedure at the checkpost the world! Eaglenest shot to to the sanctuary with a very fame when a new bird spe- informative interpretation cies, the Bugun liocichla centre, you head up the was discovered by an astro- only road towards physicist working in the Lama Camp. sanctuary, who then chris- Stretching along the tened the bird after the western border of Arunachal local Bugun tribe. Drawn by Pradesh, Eaglenest Wildlife the striking images and sto- Sanctuary is revered by ries of the elusive biodiver- wildlife enthusiasts across sity of the region and keen the planet for its biodiversi- on getting a glimpse of this ty; reports suggest that it conservation success story, has one of highest concen- we made our way there in trations of bird species in the November cold. arjun kamdar 40 41  arjun kamdar Eaglenest has an inter- esting political history; when nature & wildlife nature & wildlife the then-teenaged Dalai Lama was escaping from the Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1959, he traversed this very path and stayed at Lama Camp—now so called in his honour. Further down this road is Khellong where the Dalai Lama is said to have inadvertently planted a tree upside down, but Nature, on understanding intent over action yet grew the birding birding bonsum tree—that still stands strong today! Interestingly, in the Sino- cold blue. In the ravines The spectacular landscape of Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary Indian war of 1962, the that lay between this camp Chinese army had proceed- and the snowy mountains, like emeralds in the flash- the embrace of the large, ed to Bompu Camp, a the isolated two-noted call light. On focussing a more lofty boughs. A real surprise memory that the elders of of the mountain scops owl powerful torch in the open- to see such a scarcely-seen the tribe still recollect cracked the air at regular ing of the tree where the animal at such proximity! quite clearly. intervals and once we heard eyes were, we found it to We woke up to the On reaching Lama the cracking of a large bam- be a grey-headed Bhutan peculiar long-drawn call of Camp, a fired-up bukhari boo, probably by an ele- flying squirrel, nonchalantly the stripe-throated yuhina at can provide some relief phant making its way climbing up and down the the crack of dawn the next from the cold wind that through the forest. tree. Seemingly unper- morning, grabbed a cup of seems to come directly from Just a few metres from turbed by the lights, it black tea and began our the Gori-chen range of the camp a pair of green- stared inquisitively at us descent towards Alubadi, Himalayas glistening in the orange eyes were shining knowing that it was safe in where there was a good 42 43  siddhartha sharma chance of sighting the ingthrush that rose and fell critically endangered Bugun in crescendo, much like a nature & wildlife nature & wildlife liocichla. wave breaking. Our ears The forest trail that we perked up and we started walked along was a sort of scanning the undergrowth boundary between the for these birds, as the elu- potato fields of the small sive Bugun liocichla is hamlet on the left and the known to be part of this dense forest, thick with mixed flock. Within minutes undergrowth on our right. we heard the unmistakable While clicking the beautiful melodious whistling call of sibia, we heard the whistling the Bugun; our hearts rac- of the blue-winged laugh- ing, we scanned each movement in the shadows The elusive Bugun liocichla of the bushes until suddenly Chestnut-headed bee eater birding birding a male Bugun liocichla offered a fleeting glimpse, local community deeply moulded by the communi- hopping from a supple twig involved in the manage- ties’ desire for and partici- into the undergrowth. He ment and protection of the pation in conservation. In was soon joined by the park in addition to running addition to conserving the female who cocked her the ecotourism verticals. A birds, the region now pro- head to one side and voluntary community con- tected from human degra- peered at us—offering us servation reserve is also due dations is also home to a less than a second of a to be set up in the coming host of lesser-known fauna glimpse. There are probably months in the Singchung such as the Bompu litter just about 10 breeding pairs village in order to aid the frog, Abor Hills agama, on the entire planet and conservation efforts of the Anderson’s mountain lizard, they are all found only in region. Of all the places in bird-poop frog, horned this tiny sanctuary! Arunachal, Eaglenest is the frogs, flying squirrels, Eaglenest is a conserva- one that has set the path for Bhutan glory butterfly, tion success story with the projects that are driven and Himalayan black bear and aparna krishnan 44 45  sanjiv valsan the Asian golden cat. farms, historically a minia- ture sort of kiwi used to nature & wildlife nature & wildlife Dirang grow here, though most The next stop on the road farms today use global were the valley systems in hybrids! While admiring a and around the Dirang river disintegrating thangka with a bustling population painting in the Dirang of redstarts, dippers, sun- dzong; a centuries-old fort birds and tits. While repair- that was used as prison in ing my shoes in the market, the Vietnam War, we met I noticed a huge amount of Tenzing, a local Monpa who kiwis and kiwi wine—this offered to show me around. region is famous for its kiwi While showing us around the sulphur hot springs A pair of black-necked cranes (known as murgapani in the The quaint village of Thembang with its distinctive stone archway birding birding local language of the Monpas) we told him that necked crane is considered made almost a thousand we were interested in birds, a reincarnation of the 6th years ago. On entering this to which he kept trying to Dalai Lama, and hence has picturesque village through tell us about an intelligent, played a crucial role in the the stone archway, one is tall bird that visited during conservation of the ecosys- transported back centuries. the threshing season. He tem; even hydroelectric An old woman using a mor- was referring to the handful power plants that threaten tar to grind dried maize, of black-necked cranes that to destroy the nesting habi- meat drying in the crisp migrate to India via tat of the species have been mountain sun outside bam- Arunachal—ornithologists met with strong resistance. boo houses, soot-covered mention that only about 10 ceilings or hardwood and individuals visit Arunachal Thembang the warm, comforting smell Pradesh, a fraction of their Thembang village is situat- of livestock. One can almost global population of 10,000 ed entirely within a stone see what FM Bailey might individuals. The black- fortress (known as a dzong) have seen over a hundred 46 47  shutterstock years ago while exploring pating families are offered the Tsangpo gorges to map an opportunity to earn. nature & wildlife nature & wildlife out the region as part of the They have also demarcated Survey of British India. a voluntary community con- Within the dzong, one can servation area which spans see the preparations for a huge altitudinal gradient; bangchang in full swing, a housing evergreen rainfor- local alcohol distilled from est species such as the maize quite similar to the marbled cat and clouded potent arrack of the region. leopard to high-altitude The Monpas of the region species such as the snow have collaborated with leopard, red panda and WWF and run homestays on Himalayan serow. a rotational basis; thus ensuring that all the partici- Mandala Electric blue grandala birding birding A few kilometres east of A resident in Thembang Dirang is Mandala, slope! Unable to believe our catch the sunrise at Sela renowned for its rich bird fortune, we stared at each Pass, 4,170m above sea and mammal life. Aware of other in disbelief as the level. After crossing paths the fact that we were now serow slowly moved into the with a Himalayan black bear on a sparsely used road, we undergrowth. We went enroute, we reached the looked out for any signs of along to spot a yellow- pass just in time to catch movement while birding in throated marten, offering us the sky turn pink, violet, and around Mandala, only a brief glimpse before orange and finally yellow as particularly keeping an eye shooting up a dry the sun slowly peeked over out for the arboreal red streambed into dense oak the sea of white clouds panda. From a bend in the and rhododendron forests. below us. Birdwatchers from dusty road, we noticed a across the globe bear the Himalayan serow Sela Pass stinging cold of pre-dawn at nonchalantly soaking in the It is worth leaving Dirang in Sela to catch the huge con- sun a few metres down the the middle of the night to gregations of electric blue sanjiv valsan 48 49  sanjiv valsan grandala birds, blood them to be rather bold and pheasants with their crimson unafraid of approaching nature & wildlife nature & wildlife face and breast patches and humans. green-white plumage, snow partridges and snow Jang pigeons and the striking iri- Moving northward towards descent Himalayan monal Jang, crossing frozen water- that resembles an artist’s falls with their sabre-like ici- palette. The Sela lake at the cles and patches of snow pass is considered sacred that lay sheltered from the by many locals and hence rays of the sun, we kept our the birds here remain unmo- eyes peeled for the highly lested by man, leading endangered Arunachal macaque that was Amur falcons described from these areas The rich verdure of Thembang birding birding only in 2005. It was chris- tened ‘munzala’ after what ner. Else, it was almost like a respected lama was due the Monpas call them, liter- these macaques had to visit soon. ally translating into ‘forest embodied the Buddha into While we struggled to dweller’. After hours of their lives, peacefully and catch our breath simply scouring the steep moun- serenely going about their walking at that altitude, a tainsides, we were rewarded business. small cohort of army-men with the sighting of a large A short distance away with their heavy backpacks troupe of munzalas feeding was the Jang monastery and intimidating rifles in a small clearing among where several monks, young almost effortlessly jogged the coniferous trees! These and old, were going about passed us while we could primates were at ease dig- their business in a hurried only stop and be in awe of ging up and eating small manner in their flowing red their resilience! The road is tubers, occasionally squab- and ochre robes. A new dotted with several army bling among themselves in addition to the monastery camps and canteens which their typical macaque-man- was being constructed and provide supplies to not only shutterstock 50 51  siddhartha sharma the army personnel but also said to have single-handed- to locals, passers-by and ly fended off the Chinese by nature & wildlife nature & wildlife tourists, a godsend in these creating an illusion of there remote areas. being an entire troop with him by lobbing grenades Jaswant Garh Memorial from different bunkers. After A few kilometres before more than three days into Jang is the Jaswant Garh this he was said to have Memorial, built to honour been fatally shot. The the bravery and courage Chinese, infuriated on dis- displayed during the 1962 covering that it was a single Sino-Indian war by Jaswant man who had tricked them Singh Rawat, a sepoy from beheaded Jaswant Singh’s the Gurkha regiment. He is body but following the end of the war gave India a The common green magpie stands out with its colourful plumage birding birding Corn drying in the open air bronze mast of his head in honour of his bravery. In bathed in soft moonshine, these three districts. Keep addition to several military and a sea of dense cumulus an eye out for interesting honours, Jaswant Singh clouds that had enveloped Mahayana Buddhist monas- continues to ‘serve’ even us suddenly parted like a teries of the local Monpa after his death and is award- curtain, revealing the star- tribe. Their traditional medi- ed promotions as though he studded sky that resembled cine, social Tibetan-style were still alive! The locals a dew-drenched spider’s culture, performing arts, and the army men posted in web on an early winter ancient stone architecture, the region believe that morning. thangka and monastery art, Jaswant Singh’s spirit pro- weaving and cuisine are tects them as they navigate Cultural Attractions also fascinating. Thembang through the landscape. Take a break from birding and Dirang are particularly On our last night in west- and wildlife from time to fascinating culturally. Dirang ern Arunachal, the gleaming time, and check out the Basti, the old heritage vil- white Himalayan peaks were people and local cultures in lage is the most interesting shutterstock 52 53  dinodia photo library part of Dirang, and worth and Tibetan food in local spending more time. And restaurants for a change. nature & wildlife nature & wildlife while you’re there, you The Bugun tribe at might as well go to Sangti Eaglenest who have been Valley, another birding para- partners in the conservation dise, or drive all the way process, are also a great westwards to Tawang, a cultural exploration break popular spot on the tourist between treks. circuit where you can check Best time: November to out some beautiful old February. Buddhist monasteries, shop Check list: Carry torches for local handicrafts and and binoculars. Photo- sample authentic Monpa graphers using long tele- photo lenses might want to Apatani man weaving a basket keep a second compact An elderly woman manufacturing prayer flags in Tawang birding birding camera handy to catch land- scapes and people portraits (9999030436, info@ 8729915566, phuarung@ as well. The region can be eaglenestbirding.com) gmail.com). The forest rest very cold and windy, and Binanda Hatiborah (94352- house at the entry gate is while winters are normally 71651) organises birding. another option. At dry, it can rain any time You can contact BAC Thembang village, you can after February, and Sela Voyages (8413996568, stay at the community- Pass is snowed over most [email protected]). based tourism homestays of the time, so plan and within the community con- carry clothing and layers Where to stay servation area run by the accordingly. WWF. Mandala has a For birding at Eaglenest, Birding Lodge (Gaurav is Operators stay at Lama Camp and the contact point for this). Gaurav Kataria is an overall Bompu—managed by the Dirang has a range of small good travel operator who local community; you can hotels, homestays and even knows the region very well contact Indi Glow (+91- comfortable resorts. dinodia photo library 54 55  central arunachal  Talley Valley Wildlife nature & wildlife nature & wildlife Sanctuary, Ziro SANJIV VALSAN discovered here. Talley sanctuary hosted the fifth T alley sanctuary is a edition of the Ziro Butterfly gem that was recently Meet, an annual meet of discovered through a enthusiasts, scientists and collaborative effort between officials, which recorded 171 the Forest Department, species of butterflies during scientists and community- the event itself. based organisations. Like Numerous species of talley valley Namdapha, Talley is famed amphibians are also found for its diversity of butterflies, here; the rare convex- including rare varieties such vented horned toad as the Kaiser-e-hind, Bhutan (Megophrys pachyproctus) glory and Brown gorgon, was discovered there as and researchers say that this recently as February 2019. is the only forest in the The clouded leopard is a world where all these three star mammal here, found on species can be found in the the higher slopes, though same place. there have also been some Since butterflies are an reports of tiger and snow indicator species of floral leopard spotting. The flora biodiversity, this fact already here is no less glamorous, suggests that Talley’s with orchids and ecosystem is totally unique. rhododendron tours In 2015 a new species, attracting as many visitors Apatani glory, was as do butterflies and birds. 58 59  sanjiv valsan Hikes from where the most Trekking and Camping in popular two-three-day nature & wildlife nature & wildlife the forest is the best way to Bamboo Trail to Talley via get acquainted with Talley’s Tashi Badang (there are birds and undulating basic Forest Dept. dorms at landscape, much of which is these camps) and back nestled between the