SAPR Group Management Doc.docx

**Shady Acres Pet Ranch** **Dog Management and Behavior Course** This course is designed to supplement the hands-on and online learning that each employee will complete during their on-boarding and training period. Understanding dog behavior and how to manage dogs moving from kennel to playgroups...

**Shady Acres Pet Ranch** **Dog Management and Behavior Course** This course is designed to supplement the hands-on and online learning that each employee will complete during their on-boarding and training period. Understanding dog behavior and how to manage dogs moving from kennel to playgroups and managing behaviors in the play groups is vital to any employees' success at Shady Acres Pet Ranch. It is important that the employee pay close attention to all verbal instruction, demonstrations, online videos and printed material so that they will pass the written tests as well as the competency demonstrations as well. - **TOOLS USED IN PLAY GROUP AND DOG MANAGEMENT:** 1. **Command Presence of Kennel Tech** -- Handlers/Kennel Techs should always carry themselves with confidence and authority. This includes how confidently you move the dog from its kennel to the play yard, how firm you are in **NOT** letting the dog pull on the leash, how firm you are on **NOT** allowing the dog to jump on you, how firm you are in **NOT** letting the dog rush through thresholds, and the overall way you handle the dog throughout the day. 2. **Walkie-Talkies --** Staff **WILL** always have their walkie talkies on them and working at all times. Further, they will be of such volume that you can always hear what other team members are saying. In the event of a fight, the kennel tech / handler will advise **"FIGHT"** into the walkie talkie so that other staff can come and assist. 3. **Leash** -- Kennel Tech / Handlers will **ALWAYS** have a leash on them at all times. When the need arises to secure a dog, you don't want to have to search for a leash. This time can be the difference in avoiding a fight or having a full-on dog fight occurring. 4. **Catch Pole** -- A catch pole is a **SAFE** way to handle a dog who may be reactive or fear biting when trying to secure via a leash. Catch poles are used when a dog has run from you or is in a corner showing that he/she is very uncomfortable. During this time of extreme fear or discomfort, the dog is more prone to biting. The catch pole allows for a safe securement of the dog. Great care will be made to use it correctly as to avoid any possible injury to the dog. 5. **Whistle** -- Staff **WILL** always have their assigned whistle on them. The purpose of the whistle is to create a distraction in the even that two dogs appear to be engaging in a pre-fight behavior or have started a scuffle. In the event that you observe one of these, you will ***blow your whistle*** very loud while immediately moving towards the dog or dogs in question. 6. **Dressage Whip / Rattle Paddle** -- A dressage whip is used in training horses and other livestock. Its' design was to be able to "whip" the back end of animals or to use the rod to touch them in certain areas of their body to get a desired movement. As handlers, we will **NOT** use the dressage whip to strike or whip a dog in any way but **WILL** use it as an extension of ourselves. This is beneficial in reaching into a dog or group of dogs to create movement or stop movement. The rattle paddle looks like an oar and has beads in the paddle part of the rod. This makes a noise that animals don't like and will respond to. The rattle paddle is used to create movement in dogs or stop movement and is most useful when creating personal boundaries of the kennel tech / handler. 7. **Water Bottle** -- Water bottles are useful in squirting a dog with water to disrupt unruly behaviors like barking, jumping on staff, crowding another dog, jumping on kennel sides, etc. It is important that the bottle shoots a STREAM and not mists. It also important to know that the water bottle works for some but not all dogs. If it's ineffective, stop using it and move to something else. 8. **Air Horn** -- The air horn is a can that has compressed air in it and when discharged makes a **VERY LOUD** sound. This is used to break up fights or pre-fight behaviors. **DO NOT** activate directly at the ears of the dog. This should only be used in extreme circumstances while out in the play group and should not be routine. 9. **Food and Treats** -- Food and/or treats are to be kept in a treat pouch that is secured to the kennel tech / handler with a top that can be secured. It is preferable to have the kind of treat pouches that SNAP shut. This will prevent food from falling out while the handler bends over, runs or any other movement that could allow for treats to fall to the ground. Treats on the ground can cause a serious dog fight. 10. **Time-Outs & Walking Time-Outs --** A "**Time-Out"** is when the dog is placed in to the time out kennel located in the play yard. If the troublesome behavior continues repeatedly, then place the dog back inside to his kennel. A **"Walking Time-Out"** is when the offending dog is leashed up by the kennel tech / handler and made to walk around the yard while always with the handler. This is done to break the cycle of behavior as well as to control movement. The idea is that if a dog knows that certain behaviors will cause him to lose freedom, the behaviors will diminish. ***[RULES FOR USING TREATS IN PLAY GROUPS:]*** a. Treats should **NOT** be used around dogs who are extremely food aggressive. If you have a dog like this in group, isolate him/her prior to working with the rest of the group. b. Keep in mind that the dogs **EARN** the treats for behaviors you ask for. Not any other time. Giving a dog a treat "for fun" minimizes the learning process. Make them work for each one. In doing this, you will begin to condition desired behaviors. c. Remember: There is no "shaking of the vending machine". Dogs must **ALWAYS EARN** the treat. They cannot annoy or pester you for it. If they do, simply walk away and disengage from the process. d. **[DRILL \#1]**: Practice going into the dog's kennel and asking for multiple **SITS**. Teach them that you'll want them to do something before they get to exit the kennel. e. **[DRILL \#2:]** Use treats to get sit commands while in the actual play group. Randomly ask a dog to approach you and offer him a treat for a sit command. f. **[DRILL \#3:]** Use treats to teach and reward the recall. Some call this a call-off, but it's to reward when a dog comes to you when you call his / her name. When doing this drill, it's important to reward the come command by giving the treat to the dog **IMMEDIATELY** as he / she gets to you. - Don't ask for a sit first as you'll then be rewarding the sit when your intention is to reward the come command. As a dog progresses with the come command, you can then begin to randomly incorporate a sit into the entire sequence. For now, be sure each command you work is isolated and rewarded. g. **[DRILL \#4:]** Use treats to reward a dog who is sitting patiently at a threshold (gate, door, kennel door, etc.) and comes through the threshold when you call his or her name. Only the dog called gets the treat. This is a higher skill set so be patient when teaching this. - **UNDERSTANDING THE PRINCIPLES OF HOW DOGS LEARN:** To state it in ***simple terms***, a behavior that is rewarded will **[likely occur again]**, and frequently. A behavior that is not rewarded or is punished, will likely **[decrease]** in occurrence. It is important to distinguish between desirable behaviors and undesirable behaviors. There are two primary learning conditions that you will need to know: 1. ***Operant Conditioning Definition:*** Operant conditioning (*also called instrumental conditioning*) is a type of associative learning process through which the strength of a behavior is modified by reinforcement or punishment. It is also a procedure that is used to bring about such learning. This theory was introduced by **[B.F. Skinner]** in 1938. ***See the charts below for how this works...***  ***Example of a Dog Pulling on Leash & Operant Conditioning*** A screenshot of a cell phone Description automatically generated ***Example of a Dog Jumping on Humans & Operant Conditioning***  A screenshot of a cell phone Description automatically generated 2. ***Classical Conditioning Definition***: Classical conditioning (also known as **[Pavlovian]** or respondent conditioning) refers to a [[learning]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Learning) procedure in which a biologically potent [[stimulus]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stimulus_(physiology)) (**[e.g. food]**) is paired with a previously neutral stimulus (e.g. **[a bell]**). It also refers to the learning process that results from this pairing, through which the neutral stimulus comes to elicit a response (**[e.g. salivation]**) that is usually similar to the one elicited by the potent stimulus. This theory was introduced by **[Ivan Pavlov]** in 1902.  Student will discuss the different ways in which the dogs at our facility learn by engaging these two different conditioning types ***(Operant and Classical).*** - Behavior shown BEFORE being fed. - Behavior shown BEFORE being let out to play. - The sound of the door alarm from up front. - Leash pulling to get outside or to walk. - Results of rushing gates and thresholds. - Results of demand barking at staff. - **MOST COMMON ISSUES OBSERVED IN PLAYGROUPS:** 1. **Zoomies --** Zoomies are when a dog will randomly begin to run like a wild dog around the play yard. While the dog may be having fun, this movement is likely to cause other dogs to react due to the HIGH intensity being shown by the dog. Social dogs like to play, but don't want a lunatic around them while playing. Imagine you're at a bar enjoying a nice drink and someone really loud and obnoxious comes in and creates an unpleasant experience. Not much fun. 2. **Gate Crowding / Rushing --** This is one of the main causes of fights at the gates or entry/exit points. Staff must control these points at ALL TIMES by using spatial pressure to make the dogs yield to us and we control the space. a. **[Hula Hoop Drill]** -- Place a hula hoop anywhere in the play yard. Then, stand inside the hoop and ANY dog that enters the hoop, use spatial pressure to remove the dog. Say the word "back" and you move towards the dogs with your arms extended out as if you're going to hug someone. When the dog backs out of your space, mark the behavior with "yes" or "good". You can use your legs to block the dog, but do NOT hit or kick the dog. Practice this until you become good at it and the dogs respond to your commands and authority. Next, you can move the hula hoop to the gate and repeat the drill. You should do this enough until you can show proficiency at keeping dogs out of your space. This will help immensely in gate control and management. b. **[Rattle Paddle Drill]**: While in the hula hoop OR at the gate, use the rattle paddle as a source of deterrence to the dogs who may enter YOUR SPACE. Simply tap the paddle on the ground near their feet to back them up. Once again, use the word "back" and then "yes" or "good" when they back up. The same drill can be done using the dressage whip, except use it to touch their feet while saying "back" and then mark as "yes" or "good" when they retreat. 3. **Inappropriate Play or Crowding --** This is where another dog will crowd or pester another dog who may not be enjoying the same type of play. When you see this behavior, try to call the dog in question to you or do something to redirect the dog away from his obsession with the other dog. You can also use the dressage whip to touch the dog and back them away from the other dog. If the dog repeats the offense, follow the discipline protocol and move on to a walking time-out or normal time-out. 4. **Dogs Not Responding to Cues or Names --** This is best cured by teaching the dog their name and the come command or recall command. Read above on the ***"using food in daycare"*** drills. Practice, practice, and more practice. 5. **Humping --** This must be stopped **IMMEDIATELY**. This is a HUGE reason that dogs will fight. If you observe even the beginning of a dog mounting another dog, you should call out the dog as **YOU ARE MOVING TOWARD** him/her to take action. ***"Max, that's enough"....***if he stops and moves on, great. If he tries to hump again, then it's a walking time-out. If a dog proves to be a "**[habitual humper]**", then notify a Supervisor for action. 6. **Resource Guarding --** This is where a dog will show aggression over possessing something like a toy, stick, rock, etc. If you see that a particular dog is showing aggression in this scenario, you should remove the object in question and take away his impulses. If it's a group toy, then wise decision will need to be made about removing the toy versus removing the dog in question. When in doubt, ask a Supervisor. 7. **Puppy Play is Too Rough --** Puppies will often play too rough when young and when in the process of learning what is appropriate play. Many times, this issue is resolved dog-to-dog and won't require staff intervention unless staff feels that it is getting out of hand. Usually another dog will "correct" the puppy when play gets too rough, but corrections rarely causes injury. These types of corrections are very normal. When you see play getting too rough, simply recall or redirect the puppy to you or something else. - **WHAT WE WATCH FOR IN PLAY GROUPS:** 1. High tails in group 2. Fastest moving dog 3. Dogs that may be staring at each other -- also a dog fixating visually on another dog 4. Predatory Sequencing -- *you will read more about this below* 5. Predatory Drift -- Cross Over 6. Know bite level \#'s -- *how does this pertain to group management?* 7. A dog correcting another dog is **NOT** aggression, it is normal 8. Most bites are **PREVENTABLE** and are the results of **HUMAN ERROR** 9. A dog who doesn't **BITE HARD** is a good dog. Restraint. - **CORRECTION SEQUENCING:** 1. **Verbal Call Out**: *"That's Enough"* or "*uh-uh"* or "*Max! Enough",* etc. 2. **Action -- DO SOMETHING:** Move towards the dog and redirect when possible. 3. **Walking Time-Out:** Place the offending dog on lead and make him/her walk beside you for a period of 5 minutes or so, then release back to group. 4. **Time-Out:** Place offending dog in time-out kennel in the play yard for 5-10 minutes. 5. **Inside:** Ultimately if the dog persists in being a problem, radio to a team mate to take him back to his kennel. - **CANINE BODY LANGUAGE -- STRESS SIGNALS / READING DOGS:**  A screenshot of a cell phone Description automatically generated - **UNDERSTANDING PREDATORY DRIVES / AGGRESSION** *Copyright credit to [**www.iSpeakDog.org**](http://www.iSpeakDog.org)* 1. **Predatory Behavior** - Search - Stalk - Rush/chase - Grab, kill, dissect - Eat​ - Shaking and dissecting stuffed toys rather than prey animals, - Chasing tennis balls and bike tires, and  - Burying food in between couch cushions. ​ - Beagles to have superhero-like scent-tracking abilities, - Border Collies to know in their DNA the most efficient route to herd a flock of sheep, and  - Greyhounds to sprint faster than 40 miles-per-hour to chase a decoy rabbit. ​ 2. **Predatory Drift** 3. **Predatory Behavior and Dog Breeds** +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ |  | | e14.jpeg) | | | Golden Retrievers and | | | Scent hounds, such as | Labrador Retrievers | Some herding dogs who | | Beagles, are "search" | excel at rushing, | are bred to nip at | | experts. They have a | chasing, and | their flock to move | | tremendously powerful | grabbing. They can | them around, like | | sense of smell, which | fetch fowl shot down | Corgis, have been | | means they can hunt | in a hunt, and they | known to nip at | | down rabbits. It also | adore games of fetch. | children's heels. | | means they need daily | And, to the dismay of | | | opportunities to | some pet owners, they | | | sniff their | also might feel an | | | surroundings to feel | urge to chase cars, | | | fulfilled. | children, bikes, and | | | | cats. | | +-----------------------+-----------------------+-----------------------+ - **FIGHT POLICY:** 1. **[Tools ]** - Slip lead kept with you at all times - Radio kept with you to call for help - Object to startle and distract dog(s) -- metal bowl, air horn, blanket, water hose 2. **[Fight - In your group]** - Call for help as you move quickly to the dog fight -- YELL **"FIGHT"** in Walkie-Talkie - Startle to distract dogs - Yell "hey, stop that" in a loud deep voice - Make a loud noise (metal bowl, air horn) - Throw water on dog (water bowl, bucket or hose) - If noise or water does not work then insert object between dogs being attacked (chair, flat board, broom, etc), **OR** separate dogs by grabbing ahold of rear legs, lift quickly and toss dog to the side -- be prepared to leash quickly as dog will likely try to go back to the fight. Be sure to grab legs, lift, and toss to side **QUICKLY**, as the dog may redirect to your hands. - Identify the **AGGRESSOR** and remove that dog immediately. Remove to the nearest separate area, a crate, transition area, outside yard (without dogs), etc. - Separate other dogs involved into crates. - Assisting staff should leash and separate other aroused dogs in the playgroup / facility and put in separate enclosures to prevent secondary fights from breaking out. - Check people and dogs for injury (check again in 30 minutes as it can take time for wounds to appear/bleed) and contact a manager immediately. 3. **[Fight - In another group]** - If you are in small dog, leave your group immediately and move toward the fight. - If you are at the front desk, move towards small dog to cover until situation is resolved. - If you are a runner, kennel staff, or otherwise free, move immediately to the fight. - If you are in a group adjacent to the fight, make a quick decision: - If the person in that group has reinforcement, stay in your group and immediately call dogs into your group to decrease the number of dogs in the group with the fight. - If the person in that group does not have reinforcement, leave your group to quickly help break up the fight, returning to your group immediately after it has been stopped. 4. **KEY TAKEAWAY**: If you are in the building and a fight happens, you must ***[DO SOMETHING]***. Yell, bang on walls, and move towards the fight. Doing nothing is not an option and will result in disciplinary action. - **CONCLUSION:**