Crime Scene Photography: Lecture Notes

**[Lecture 2 Notes September 16, 2024]** **Crime scene photography** [Photos tell a story ] - Over two days of testimony on Aug. 10 and Aug. 11, retired OPP forensic Identical Sergeant John Aitkenhead walked the jury through the scene with a series of photographs taken of evidence found...

**[Lecture 2 Notes September 16, 2024]** **Crime scene photography** [Photos tell a story ] - Over two days of testimony on Aug. 10 and Aug. 11, retired OPP forensic Identical Sergeant John Aitkenhead walked the jury through the scene with a series of photographs taken of evidence found outside and inside the Aino Beach Road home - After photographing the outside of the home, Aitkenhead took the jury inside the home, starting on the front landing, where several items were seized and photographed - From this area, police collected blue jeans, a white T-shirt, and a right-food work boot - "you can see the extensive reddish staining," Aitkenhead testified, adding a right-foot black shoe was also found in this area with reddish staining on the heel. [Scene photos vs. Exhibit photos ] - **Scene Photos** - *General photos* taken of the scene prior to processing - Shows everything as found - Not a defined process - Painting a picture - As found by the police forensic unit upon arrival - **Exhibit Photos** - A specific set of photos of an exhibit/object/ piece of evidence - Follows a defined process - Consists of a series of photos (typically 4) - Area where exhibit/evidence should be in scene photos (front stairs) [Crime Scene photographer] - Do **not** need to be professional photographer - Need to be competent with a camera and its accessories - Should have formal training (for court purposes) able to explain - Understand the criteria for photographs being admissible in court [Camera techniques ] - Correct technique when holding a digital camera - Right hand holds camera body by right side/ grip - Left hand/holds supports barrel of the lens from underneath [Before you start...] - Is the scene safe for the photograph? - What PPE precautions do you need to take? (gloves?) - Do you have lawful authority to be in the scene? if you're at someone's house, you're there with their consent, have to ask etc. - What type of scene is it? (murder, robbery, B&E, drug, etc.) - Who is there for what type of crime? [Crime scene photography ] - The scene is photographed from many different directions and angles to show the layout of the scene, capture the position of the evidence to be collected and show spatial relationships between items - Photographs can document the perspective of any known witnesses as well as any potential witnesses. - These photographs are important as they may be used for further analysis by experts and investigators. - Ultimately, they may end up being shown in court or inquests, where they will be viewed by lawyers, jurors, witnesses, and the public. - Crime scene photographs record the area in which the crime took place and all other areas of importance in relation to that scene (secondary scenes) - **Photos should be taken generally first then specific** - Photos should be taken before the scene is processed or altered - Each crime should be photographed as completely as possible in a logical succession from general to specific - The sequence will show the overall scene first, then work down to individual pieces of evidence that can easily by related back to the larger scene - **Overall photos** need to be taken of any crime scene before any processing can begin (scene layout, all perspectives) - This can be a street, a field, a house, a hallway, or a room - These overall photos give context to the evidence that may be found within. The crime scene - Always take a few more photos that may be necessary - Don't get caught up in how many photos have been taken - The 4 photographs required for a scientific item (**evidence/exhibit)** are: 1. An overall photograph 2. A midrange photographs 3. A close-up photograph 4. A close-up photograph with a scale [Crime Scene Camera] - Digital Signal Lens Reflex (DSLR) camera is the type typically used for crime scene photography - What you see through the viewfinder (or LCD monitor) is how the photo will turn out  [Digital photography ] - A digital photograph is made when a light-sensitive microchip (**sensor**) captures light on each of millions of tiny picture elements called **pixels** - The light is recorded on each pixel as a specific electrical charge, which is read by the camera as image information which is stored as a file on a **memory card** [Charge Coupled Device (CCD)] - The digital equivalent of film - CCD contains millions of silicon **photosensors** - Each photo sensor is a pixel or picture element - The image passes through the lens and is focused onto a CCD (film plane) - Exposure (amount of light) is **controlled** by shutter speed/aperture [File Formats ] - **JPEG** **J**oint **P**hotographic **E**xperts **G**roups (fast, "lossy" format) - This is the most common image format used in digital cameras - You lose some quality each time you open and close the file - **Tiff** **T**agged **I**mage **F**ile **F**ormat - High quality, large files, lossless compression - **Useful** when opening and saving file repeatedly - **RAW** proprietary format (original data, no standards) - this means that Nikon has their formant and Cannon has their own - stores highest quality image - has been called the digital "negative" [Exposure ] - The amount of light that reaches the camera sensor (CCD) - Looking. For a balanced, even exposure in the photograph (proper exposure) - Too much light and the picture is overexsposed (too light) - Too little light and the picture is underexposed (too dark) - Camera setting that **affect** the exposure of an image are: 1. **Aperture** 2. **Shutter speed** 3. **Camera ISO** - Computer software such as Photoshop can also be used to lighten/darken a photograph **[1. Aperture ]** - **The size of the opening in the camera lens through which light passes** - The bigger the opening the more light that passes through and the smaller the opening the less light that passes through the lens - The aperture is stated/written as a f/number or f-stop - The size of the aperture can be thought of as a fraction (f) - The larger the fraction the larger the aperture (more light allowed in) - For example: **F4, F5.6, F8, F11, F16, F22, F32** - **F4** lets in the **most light** and **F32** the **least amount of light** - When, you move from one f-stop to the next you are either doubling or having the amount of light is captured - **F8** to **F11** (half the light) if you go up, youre halfing the amount of light - **F22** to **F16 (**double the light) if youre going down, youre doubling the amount of light  **[2. Shutter ]** - Shutter speed is the length of time the camera shutter stays open, exposing light to the camera sensor - The longer the shutter is open, the more light will reach the sensor - The faster the shutter speed, the shorter the time the image sensor is exposed to light; the slower the shutter speed, the longer the time the image sensory is exposed to light - Shutter speeds are typically fractions of a second ([1/5000], [1/250], [1/125], [1/60], [1/30]) - Typically, 30 seconds is the longest shutter time setting on a DSLR camera - Each shutter setting is half (or double) that of the next one (e.g. 1/60 is half of 1/30 so half the light) - Anytime over (longer than) 1/60^th^ of a second can introduce "camera shake" [ASA/ISO (film speed)] - A numerical rating that describes the sensitivity to light of CCD/film - Does **[NOT]** affect the amount of light entering the camera - It brightens a photo after the sensor has been exposed to light - Rating ranges typically go from 100 to 3200 (although they can go lower and higher) - As you raise the number, the picture will get brighter but will also start to get grainier - As you move up you are doubling the sensitivity to light (ISO 100 to 200), and down, you are halving the sensitivity to light (ISO1600 to 800) - You choose/set the ISO on your camera [Depth of Field ] - **Depth of field** is the distance between the closest and farthest objects in a photo that appear acceptably sharp. - Controlled by aperture (f-stop) selection - Crime scene and evidence photographs should have as much in focus as possible - It can also be affected by: 1. The distance from the subject to the camera 2. The focal length of the lens - A lens with a long local length produces a **shallow** depth of field (e.g., 105mm) - A lens with a short focal length produces a **deep** depth of field (e.g., 28mm)  [The focal length of a lens ] - The focal length of a lens is **determined when the lens is focused at infinity.** - **Lens focal length tells us the** angle of view how much of the scene will be captured and the **magnification** how large individual elements will be - The longer the focal length, the narrower the angle of view and the higher the magnification.  [TTL Flash Metering ] - Stands for "Through The Lens" - A model on the camera - Pre-flash occurs, which reflects light back through the lens - This is measured and the is used to calculate the amount of light needed for the actual exposure - Not visible to the human eye in front sync mode - Flash Techniques - Direct flash - Feathered flash - Fill in flash - Bounce flash - Oblique flash - Multiple flash (on camera) - Multiple flash (off camera) [Direct Flash ] - The flash is pointed directly at the subject/item you want to photograph - The flash is mounted on top of the camera on the hot shoe  [Feathered Flash ] - The flash is off camera held above the lens - It is pointed into the scene where you want the light to go - Usually pointed downwards about two-thirds of the way [Fill in Flash ] - Utilized on bright, sunny days - The camera read the overall brightness when calculating the exposure - Items in shadow areas will not be clearly visible - Point flash in the direction of the shadow areas to raise the brightness level (on or off camera) in the shadow area [Bounce Flash ] - Used for less contrast, softer lighting and reducing the intensity of the light - The flash head is typically set to a 45-degree angle - The surface the flash is directed at should be clear of obstructions and lighter (if possible)  [Oblique Flash ] - Typically used when photographing impression evidence (fingerprints, footwear) - Flash is connected to a flash sync cord and held at an angle to the subject being photographed (45) - Used to show detail by creating shadows on the surface of the evidence - Various angles can be used [Multiple Flash (on Camera) ] - Camera mounted on tripod - Flash is activated manually - Typically used for **low light/no light** scenes - Longer exposure time is required in order to activate flash several times - What aperture (f-stop) would you consider using here? [Multiple Flash (off camera) ] - AKA "painting by light" - Useful for large outdoor scenes at night with little ambient light (streetlights, house lights) - Camera on tripod - Long exposure time - May use "bulb" setting - May use portable flash unit  [Ring Flash] - A circular flash that fits around a camera lens - Allows light to spread out evenly over the area being photographed - Very good for macro (close-up) photography - Often utilized at autopsies - Often seen on CSI type shows being used **Incorrectly** [Photographing Impression Evidence ] - Done without and with scale - Usually requires the use of **oblique** lighting - Close-up photos capture fine detail (fill the frame!) - Typically utilizes a flash - May require the camera to be mounted on a tripod for stability - Camera and impression need to be on the same place [Footwear ] - first photo without scale flash on an angle to impression (oblique) - next photo with scale and flash on an angle to impression (oblique) - the scale **must** be at the same level/depth as impression in order to be useful - Oblique lighting (depends on exhibit) - shows fine details in impression evidence (e.g., footwear impressions) by creating shadows on the surface of the object [Fingerprints ] - Overall, mid-range and close-up - The closeup is with and without scale, starting without scale - Oblique lighting (flash or flashlight) - Fill the frame on close-up for detail - Tripod may be needed for close-up photos - Macro lens allows you to focus extremely close to a subject (can achieve 1:1 aspect ratio) [Tire Tracks ] - interested in capturing as much of the rotation of the tire as possible - width is as important as the pattern - will need two measurements - scale must be the same depth as the impression - consider enhancement techniques [Photographing assault victims ] - start with overall photo of victim - mid-range - close-up (without and with scale) of injury/injuries - be considerate of the person - act professional - maintain their privacy and dignity at all times [Bite Marks ] - Proper orientation photos - closeup photos with and without scale - trying to capture as much detail as possible - small depth of field - ISO set at a "slow" film speed of 100 [Photographing vehicles ] - Start with the exterior - include each side, corner, license plate, VIN, decals, and any damage or custom accessories - Next photo of the interior of the vehicle - Start with the front driver area, from each side with the doors open, the steering column, the glove box, the instrumental panel, the rear seat, and the trunk - Systematically work your way around the car, capturing the interior details of each area - After processing the vehicle, before seizing the evidence, photograph the exhibits, photograph the exhibits to be seized (DNA, fingerprints, clothing, weapons, etc.) using 4 photos [Video (on camera)] - video is completed at large scenes and/or used to tie parts of a scene together - is a quick, easy way to get an overview of a complex scene - should not be narrated - needs to be done well; otherwise, it is difficult to view [Photographing the Crime scene] - **Frequent question:** How many photos do I need to take? - **Answer:** as many as you need (better too many than too few) - **Caveat:** time at a scene is limited - Once pieces of evidence have been moved, they cannot be put back to be photographed again. - This is why it is important to capture the scene via photographs before anything moved [Conditions at the Scene] - A crime scene may be outside or inside, small (1 room), or large (several black) - Typically, it is a home, business, stairwell, part of a roadway, etc. - The conditions will vary greatly and depend on weather and lighting - These conditions will guide you as to the technique and camera settings you will use [Think about these questions before you start to photograph the scene: ] 1. what is the purpose of photographing this scene? 2. Does the objects show or have any relationships to the overall scene? 3. Does the object have any relationship to other items? 4. Will it be properly exposed? 5. Will there be any reflections off windows or mirrors that wash out the photograph? 6. Will the photograph be explainable/useful to a jury in court? 7. Is the correct equipment being used for the scene? [Correct Exposure ] - Correct exposure is necessary for the CCD to capture detail in all scene parts, including highlight areas and shadows. - Underexposed areas lose detail in the shadows, while overexposed areas will lose detail in the highlighted areas - Correct use of the flash should take care of any issues [Sharp Focus ] - photographs need to be in sharp focus - To accomplish this: - keep the camera steady; use a tripod if the shutter speed is longer than 1/60^th^ of a second in length - focus carefully - use maximum depth of field [Application: a series of photographs ] - Photographing a crime scene is the best way to preserve how the scene looks. use a methodical approach to document the scene 1. show the **overall scene** by taking overall photographs 2. show the location of evidence with **overall** and ***mid-range*** photographs 3. show detail by taking ***close-up photographs*** (without and with scale) - always work from the outside for the scene to the inside and working from a general area down to a single item of evidence [Overline Scene Photographs ] 1. **Outside of the scene** - take photographs to establish the location of the scene - Use identifiers that are available - This could include a street sign, an apartment complex name, an address plaque, some type of identifying landmark or all of the above - take photographs of the surrounding area - Depending on the type of scene, included streets, parking lots, alleys - sometimes this may require additional photographs shot overhead (aerial use of "drone" - exterior photographs should include all doors, windows, and other means of entrance or exit to and from the building or residence involved 2. **Inside of the scene** - the photographs should be taken so that others can visualize the scene. For each room or area: - begin with a view of the entrance - photograph the room or area as it was found when you arrived - take 4-corner photographs of each room. This means take a photograph from each corner of the room to show its' layout. Make sure to choose a setting that captures all of the room. In large rooms, it may be necessary to take additional photographs from other locations for complete coverage. - Continue with other rooms/areas connected with the crime scene - Rooms are not always easy to photograph from each corner as there may be furniture or other items in the way - Not all rooms have 90-degree corners either [Overall Exhibits photos] - Once the overall photos have been taken of the exterior and interior of the scene, the scene examination may commence with the next steps - At some point, items of interest will be identified for seizures as exhibits - These exhibits will need to be photographed in situ with overall, mid-range and close-up photos (without and with scale) - The same process of 4 photos is followed for each exhibit that is seized - The overall photo places the item in the scene but doesn't necessarily distinguish it from other items [Mid-Range Exhibit Photographs ] - Once the overall photographs have been completed, the next photographs should be taken from a closer distance (about half the distance to the item) to show a piece of evidence in relation to other evidence, items and features nearby (chairs, walls, body) - The mid-range photo is meant to draw attention to only that one particular piece of evidence - It helps to differentiate similar-looking pieces of evidence [Close-up photographs ] - Close-up photographs are taken to show how individual items of evidence looked at the scene - They should also be taken where finer detail is needed - Typically taken from overtop of the item - The items should always be photographed as they were found and then again with a label and/or scale. The photo label and/or scale should be placed close to the item without obscuring any evidence detail. - Close-up photographs that may be used for **comparison purposes** should be taken with the camera mounted on a tripod. - **The camera must be put into a position where the CCD plane (back of the camera) is parallel to the surface to be photographed.** - Make sure a ruler and a label are included in each photograph that is to be used for **comparison purposes.** - **You may need to take multiple photos until you get the right one** - Information this label **may** contain includes the exhibit \#, date, name and badge \# and a space for a direction arrow [Follow-up points ] - Further photos may be required back at the forensic unit - A review of exhibits reveals additional details to be documented - A more thorough search of exhibits results in other items needing to be documented contents of pockets from clothing or backpack [Points to remember ] - Start from the outside and work your way into the scene (house, apartment or room) - Photos must be correctly exposed, with maximum depth of field - Be free from distortion (accurate) - Be in focus - For death scenes, after the body has been removed from the scene, the surface beneath the body should be photographed. [Admissibility of photographic evidence in court ] 1. **Three major points** of qualification in court: a. Photo contents must be [relevant] to the point in issue b. The photograph must not be [prejudicial] (autopsy) to the court or jury c. The photograph must be [free from distortion] and [not misrepresent] what it purports to show 2. You do not need to be an expert in photography to take crime scene photographs **[or]** testify about them [Court Testimony Digital Images ] - **Enhancement** - To improve the value or quality of a photo - Involves the use of a software program (such as Adobe Photoshop) - Can track all steps taken - "use, don't abuse" - **Manipulation** - To change the photo so it serves one's own means or purpose - Manipulated images are not allowed in court as evidence **[Photo Review]** - The following group of photos are provided as examples to show how photos of the same thing can differ in quality - While both photos have value, one photo of each pair stands out to the viewer - Attention to detail or framing your subject prior to taking the photo will give you a better end result - A photographer who rushes a photo usually gets less than optimal results