Lash Extensions 101 PDF

Lash extentions: 101 montana skin academy 1.1 THE HISTORY OF LASHES The invention and use of false eyelashes began in 1916 in director D.W. Griffith’s film, Intolerance. He wanted actress Seena Owen to have lashes “that brushed her cheeks, to make her eyes shine larger than life.” The first f...

Lash extentions: 101 montana skin academy 1.1 THE HISTORY OF LASHES The invention and use of false eyelashes began in 1916 in director D.W. Griffith’s film, Intolerance. He wanted actress Seena Owen to have lashes “that brushed her cheeks, to make her eyes shine larger than life.” The first false eyelashes were made of human hair woven through fine gauze by a local wig maker. They were then attached to Owen’s eyes. In 1917 Maybell Laboratories created a product which would become the first cake mascara. In 1923 Maybell Laboratories was renamed Maybelline. In 1930’s and 40’s we added to our dark sultry mascara look when eyelash curlers became a staple in all women’s make-up bags. In the 1960’s artificial lashes became a huge fashion, thanks to women like Twiggy and Brigitte Bardot. In 2002, an international survey reported that more than 60% of women in the world were using mascara, resulting in a multi-billion dollar industry. It was only a natural progression therefore, that single strand lash extension were developed to be applied individually to our own natural lashes to enhance our eyes. The eyelash extension craze began in Korea in 2003 and took America by storm a few years later. Now with a wide variety of products and training, great lashes are readily available to anyone. 1.2 natural lash growth Eyelashes aren’t just there to frame the eyes and make them pretty; they have a very specific and important function. Eyelashes are designed to prevent objects from getting in the eyes. Each eyelash has nerve sensors that cause the eyelid to instantly lose when any speck of dust hits one. This filters out foreign objects and protects your eyes. The upper lid typically has about 90 to 150 lashes on it, while the bottom has between 70 and 80 lashes. Most eyelashes grow to be about 10 mm long (just over 3⁄8 inch). Because lashes have become a status of beauty, we will do anything we can to make them longer, thicker and more luscious. Just think of how many mascara commercials you see on a daily basis! It can become unsettling when you wake up in the morning and notice an eyelash or two that have fallen out and are resting on your cheeks or pillow. It is important to understand however, that this is a normal process, because like every other hair on your body, eyelashes are constantly moving through a natural growth cycle. Anagen (Growth) Phase The anagen phase is also called the growth phase. This is the phase when lashes are actively growing, and it lasts between 30 and 45 days. Only about 40 percent of the upper lashes and 15 percent of the lower lashes are in the anagen phase at any one time. Each lash will grow to a specific length and then stop. Catagen (Transition) Phase The catagen phase is also known as the transition phase. During this phase, the lash stops growing and the hair follicle shrinks. If an eyelash falls out or is pulled out during this phase, it won’t grow back right away because the follicle needs to complete the catagen phase before it can move on to the next one. This phase lasts between two and three weeks. Telogen (Resting) Phase The telogen phase is also referred to as the resting phase. This phase can last more than 100 days before the eyelash falls out and a new one begins to grow. Because each individual lash is in its own phase of the growing cycle, it’s normal for a few lashes to fall out most days. It typically takes between four and twelve weeks to fully replace an eyelash. Because of this natural cycle, we recommend getting a retouch every two to three weeks. An eyelash sheds every 60-90 days on average due to the natural growth cycle and is replaced with the growth of a new eyelash. At any given moment each of your natural lashes is at a different stage of this cycle. A retouch is needed to replenish the lashes that have completed their life cycle. Retouches generally take a short time and are relatively inexpensive. (SLIDE 3) Look at the photo above and notice the individual lengths of the lashes. Can you spot some shorter lashes? These are in the anagen stage. Remember, they are still growing. If you apply a long eyelash extension on a short natural lash it will grow out top heavy and may shed too soon due to the unbalanced weight of the lash. See those long ones? Our eyes seem to fall right on them. We get excited thinking about the long thick lash that would be just perfect right there; but be cautious, those lashes are ending their telogen ccle and ready to shed. Those nice medium length lashes are going to be your best bet on a long-lasting, beautiful set of lashes. So what happens if you use lashes that are too long, too thick, or too heavy? Inappropriately sized lashes will cause stress on the natural lash, causing it to shed prematurely, this causes a condition known as traction alopecia. Traction alopecia is a form of gradual hair loss, caused primarily by pulling force being applied to the hair, or in this case, lashes. Dermatologists say repeated premature shedding of the hair from the follicle may cause scarring of the hair follicle. Hair lost from permanently scarred follicles will not regrow. If we have a lash shed before its natural cycle ends, it causes the lash follicle to shrink. The lashes will consistently grow in thinner and weaker every time this happens, sometimes to the extent that the natural lash will not grow back. How do you know if this is happening? Your first indication will be from the amount of shedding you discover at your client’s retouch appointment. You should never see more than 50% of the lashes shed by the three week mark. If your client has excessive shedding, and is following appropriate home care methods, apply a shorter and / or finer diameter lash. You must take into consideration your client’s natural lash, never apply an extension to a natural lash that ismore than twice the length or thickness (diameter). 1.3 Lash types Lashes come in a variety of lengths, diameters and curl sizes. With this much customization available, you’re sure to find the perfect look for every client. Let’s look at some of the most popular types of lashes. Loose Lash: The original lash. Comes in a pot or jar. Can be difficult to pick up. Tray Lash: Created for easier pick-up, better organization of lashes and less waste. Synthetic Mink: Most popular. Long lasting wear and curl. Can create soft or dramatic looks. Synthetic Silk: Lighter than synthetic mink. Holds curl well. Softer, less dramatic. Real Mink: Lightest, softest, feather lash, does not produce a long lasting curl. Specialty: Rhinestone, glitter, and two-tones are examples of this. Most synthetic lashes are made with a plastic called PBT. This is a thermoplastic polymer that is heated, molded into the desired lash shape, and set as it’s cooled. This results in perfectly curled, tapered lashes. Synthetic Silk Lashes These are quite soft and flexible. They come in all lengths and curls. You might notice less shedding at your client’s retouch appointment as compared to using synthetic minks because of their lighter weight which results in better retention. They can look more natural and don’t provide as much drama as synthetic minks. Synthetic Mink Lashes These come in every desired length, curl, and diameter. These are the most common lash used. Faux mink lashes are high gloss, curled and tapered to perfection and will give your clients a glamorous look. Not as soft as real mink or silk, but hold their shape will. Real Mink Lashes Mink (authentic fur) lashes are a very light weight, soft and natural looking lash. It’s like wearing feathers, but have a tendency to fray on the tips. Mink is a more expensive eyelash extension. When working with mink, opt for C or D curls as mink lashes do not hold their curl as long. 1.4 lash lengths, diameters, and curls Lash Lengths Lengths range from 6mm all the way up to 15mm long. Each eyelash application may use up to three different lengths or more. When choosing lash lengths to use, always keep in mind our natural cycle of hair growth. Keep in mind also, when choosing the perfect length that for long lasting results, that the lash extension should never exceed twice the length of the natural lash. Lash Diameters (Thickness) Lash diameters (thickness) range from.6mm all the way up to.25mm. The most common lash diameters for lashes are:.10mm,.15mm, and.20mm,.6mm-.10mm are mainly used for more advanced techniques such as volume lashes. Volume lashes are created by fanning 2-6 lightweight lashes and applying them to a single lash. Also known as 2D, 3D, 4D, 5D, or 6D..10mm is best for clients who have fine or short lashes and will produce a natural, soft, look. These will increase thickness and length but will be virtually undetectable to anyone. For a more dramatic look on a healthy lash, you may use.10 for stacking or capping. Stacking or capping is a technique used when you attach an extension to the base of a growing natural lash while there is still an extension attached to it. This technique is used a lot in retouching..15mm is the most common width. It still provides clients with a natural look, but will give an overall appearance of thicker, longer lashes. This size works well on clients with fine to medium natural eyelashes..20mm gives you a thicker, more dramatic lash line. You’re sure to get noticed with these lashes! These lashes must be used with extreme caution as to not damage the natural lash. Your client needs a healthy, strong, natural eyelashes to support the weight of these lashes..25 is not recommended due to the weight of this lash. Keep in mind you never want to more than double the thickness (diameter) of the natural eyelash. Lash Curls Lashes come in a multiple different curl types and will give you the flexibility to work with any client or eye shape. J-Curl: Very straight. Mostly used with a hooded lid. B-Curl: Popular and straight with a slight curve. Creates a natural look that can be used with many eye types. C-Curl: Most popular and curled at the outer tip, C curl can be used for an extreme or natural look on many eye types. D-Curl: Curled at both ends of the extension creating a “doll-like” effect. This lash might be difficult to work with on clients with straight lashes. L-Curl: L curls have a flat stem that allow an easy glue bond and dramatic lift to naturally flat lashes. 1.5 eye shapes and lash mapping See slide for info 1.6 Product knowledge Having an understanding of the products and tools we will be using will help you understand why each product is an important part of creating the perfect lash set. Although these are not all the products available they are the minimum products needed to complete an eyelash application. Check with your product manufacturer(s) for the specific products you will need. Primer A primer removes oils and dust, and sanitizes the lashes prior to applying extensions. Can also use saline. Gel Pads Collagen enriched, lint-free eye patches are used during the lash extension process for the client’s comfort and protection of the lower lashes. Medical Tape Used for taping down the lower lashes prior to applying the extensions. Can be used on the upper lid to secure a hooded lid or to help spread and separate the lashes. Flocked Applicators and Microswabs Used to apply primers, sealants and gel remover to the lashes. Sealant The eyelash extension sealant forms a barrier to protect against the elements that break down the adhesive. It maximizes the bonding strength and protects them from moisture, oil and dust. Optional Gel Remover Gel remover dissolves the bonds without running into the client’s eyes. Jade Stone A large round jade stone is perfect for keeping your glue cool so it doesn’t dry up during application. Hand Held Fan or Manual Air Flow Device used to whisk away fumes, set the lashes, and provide comfort to the client. 1.7 Adhesives Don't be deceived by the term “Medical Grade Adhesive.” Eyelash Extensions use specifically formulated adhesives that are safe to use around the eye area. The main ingredient in eyelash adhesive is cyanoacrylate. There are different types of cyanoacrylates, including Octyl and Butyl Cyanoacrylates (which are considered true medical grade.) Medical grade adhesives are used for wound closure and surgical procedures. Most lash adhesives use Methyl or Ethyl Cyanoacrylates with Eythl being the acrylate of choice. These types are not medical grade, but are safe for the eye area when used properly. So why choose this form? Simply speaking, Octyl and Butyl are slower drying, which doesn’t serve us well as lashers. Methyl and Ethyl quicker drying which is perfect for lashing. Fact: cyanoacrylates are used in veterinary, dental and medical practices, first aid, and cosmetology. Fact: cyanoacrylate is an acrylic resin that rapidly polymerizes (or cures) with the presence of moisture. If your client is allergic to acrylics, they will be allergic to the adhesive. Don’t spend less than $50.00 on adhesive. Fact: Because the presence of moisture causes the adhesive to cure, exposure to normal levels of humidity causes a thin skin to start to form within seconds, which slows the reaction. Because of this cyanoacrylate must be applied thinly, to ensure that the reaction proceeds rapidly and a strong bond is formed within a reasonable time. Translation: Use very small amounts of adhesive. Finish every set by applying your sealant (moisture) to begin the curing process. Wait 24 hours before getting “wet” to fully complete the curing process. Formaldehydes in Adhesives: There has been a lot of segments in the news about lash adhesives containing formaldehyde. This is a scary topic to think about and to discuss with your clients. Let me share with you a few facts about formaldehyde, and where it’s found in our adhesives. Formaldehyde is a colorless gas. It has a pungent, distinct odor and may cause a burning sensation to the eyes, nose and lungs at high concentrations. Formaldehyde is naturally produced in very small amounts in our bodies as a part of our normal, everyday metabolism and causes us no harm in these small amounts. At home, formaldehyde is produced by cigarettes and other tobacco products, gas cookers, and open fireplaces. It is also used as a preservative in some foods, such as some types of Italian cheeses, dried foods, and fish. Formaldehyde is found in many products used every day around the house, such as antiseptics, medicines, cosmetics, dish-washing liquids, fabric softeners, shoe-care agents, carpet cleaners, glues and adhesives, lacquers, paper, plastics, and some types of wood products. You are exposed to small amounts of formaldehyde in air. It occurs from both natural and manmade sources although combustion is the largest source. If you live in an unpopulated area, you may be exposed to about 0.2 parts per billion (ppb) of formaldehyde in the air outdoors. In suburban areas, you may be exposed to about 2- 6 ppb of formaldehyde. If you live in a heavily populated area or near some industries, you may be exposed to 10-20 ppb. You may be exposed to higher levels of formaldehyde during rush hour commutes in highly populated areas because it is formed in automobile and truck exhaust. Eyelash adhesives do not contain formaldehyde as a base ingredient, however ultra- low amounts of formaldehyde naturally occur as a byproduct of the main ingredient and are released as the adhesive degrades over time. Because of the naturally occurring degradation, there is no adhesive on the market that is currently formaldehyde free. However, you are exposed to a very minimal amount (lower exposure than most products you are using on a day-today- basis) and it is for a very short period of time. If you don't shake your adhesive, like vigorously shake your adhesive, the ingredients inside will not mix properly. If the ingredients do not mix properly, the adhesive will not work as it is supposed to. This will then mean poor retention for your client and their lashes. You can purchase glue spinners/shakers to help make the process faster and easier. 1.8 reactions, infections, and allergies Adhesives are bonding chemicals that require many ingredients to work properly. There is no adhesive on the market that will ensure your client does not have a reaction or an allergy. It is therefore recommended to always conduct a patch test by applying two to three lashes per eye, 24 hours prior to the scheduled service. If your clients feels any sensation, or if the skin becomes red, itchy, or irritated, it is suggested the extensions should NOT be applied. Allergic to latex: If a client is allergic to latex they will feel itchy, have skin redness and possibly hives or rashes. Most people will know if they have an allergy to latex. Allergy to Acrylic: If a client has an allergy to acrylic, the reaction will be almost instant. The skin will become itchy, red and swollen with a “burn” like appearance at the contact sight. (If the extensions are done correctly, no adhesive should be touching the skin.) Your clients can develop an allergy to lashes, adhesives, medical tape and/or gel pads even if hey have been receiving extensions without difficulties for a long period of time. Usually an allergy will show up within a day or two after the appointment. Your client will notice redness, swelling and itching of the eye and eyelid. Lashes are a good hiding place to trap dirt and bacteria, this too can cause irritation and infections. Blepharitis is a common eye disorder that results in inflammation of the eyelids causing red, irritated, itchy eyelids and the formation of dandruff- like scales on eyelashes. Individuals with blepharitis may experience a gritty or burning sensation in their eyes, excessive tears, itching, red and swollen eyelids, dry eyes, or crusting of the eyelids. For some people, blepharitis causes only minor irritation and itching. However, it can lead to more severe signs and symptoms such as blurring of vision, missing or misdirected eyelashes, and inflammation of other eye tissue, particularly the cornea. The number one Ophthalmologist suggested eyewash for these clients is diluted baby shampoo. This is why we recommend your clients wash their eyes gently every day with a dilution of water and shampoo. Clean lashes and good care are your best prevention methods. If your clients experiences any of these conditions, it is advised to remove the lashes and have your client see their physician if necessary. Normally the reaction will go away on its own within a day or two after the lashes have been removed. It is typical for up to 5% of your clients to develop an allergy or sensitivity to lash adhesive at some time. Keep your adhesives in a cool, dry place and replace every two to three months once d opened. 1.9 safety and sanitation Disinfection is EXTREMELY important when performing any aspect of the lash extension procedure. Please take a few moments to review these safety and sanitation guidelines. If your client shows ANY sign of infection, do not apply extensions. This can include oozing or crusted eyes, redness of the eye or eyelids, itching or watering eyes, or swelling of the eyelids. Wash your hands before every service. Cleanse client’s eyes with an oil-free makeup remover before starting each service. Always remove lashes from your tray before applying them to the client. If lashes are remaining, place them in an envelope marked with your client’s name, or dispose of them. Always clean your stainless steel tweezers with pure acetone to remove adhesive residue, then follow your standard disinfection procedures, including immersing in a barbicide solution for 10 minutes. Always store your implements in a clean, closed container. Follow all manufacturer's directions regarding your lash products. Use caution when applying lashes. Take your time, and ensure you and your client are comfortable.