Summary

This essay examines the influence of cultural appropriation in the fashion industry, focusing on examples such as the Dior and Gucci incidents. It explores the complexities of cultural exchange, and the importance of respect and acknowledgement in global fashion markets. The essay's keywords are cultural appropriation, fashion, and design.

Full Transcript

Art and Fashion The influence of cultural appropriation in fashion Carolina Hong 23022088 Fashion Jewelry Unit Leader: Anne Reimers In July 2022, a half-length skirt from the globally renowned luxury brand Dior was priced at 3300. The design of the skirt bore a striking resemblance to the trad...

Art and Fashion The influence of cultural appropriation in fashion Carolina Hong 23022088 Fashion Jewelry Unit Leader: Anne Reimers In July 2022, a half-length skirt from the globally renowned luxury brand Dior was priced at 3300. The design of the skirt bore a striking resemblance to the traditional Chinese horse-faced skirt, a cultural element that has been a subject of discussion in the context of cultural appropriation. Dior did not disclose the source of inspiration for the design in the product introduction. This move was met with criticism, as evidenced by the protest that took place on July 23rd, where over 50 Chinese students in France gathered to voice their concerns near the Dior store on the Champs-Elysées in Paris. This incident serves as a poignant example of cultural appropriation, highlighting the need for greater cultural sensitivity in the fashion industry. Cultural identity plays a pivotal role in shaping individual identity and social connections, and fashion, as a form of visual and aesthetic expression, often serves as a significant medium for cultural exchange and recognition. In the context of globalization, the blending of different cultures has enriched the diversity of fashion art but also introduced complexities to cultural identity. Through clothing, patterns, colours, and design elements, fashion transforms cultural symbols into a global language, helping people connect with their identity and community (Smith, 2019).However, many people argue that the interaction between fashion and cultural identity is not always harmonious, citing issues such as cultural appropriation, commercialization, and the dilution of cultural meanings as common in the fashion industry (Jones, 2021). These issues frequently compromise the fundamental values of indigenous cultures and present challenges to cultural identity. In response, the fashion industry is progressively addressing these issues by incorporating cultural diversity, sustainability, and local design into its creative process, aiming to achieve a balance between globalization and localization. This paper explores the intersection of cultural identity and fashion art, and the effects of cultural appropriation on the fashion industry. To begin with, it's cultural appropriation a bad influence? let's talk about what is cultural appropriation. According to the definition of the Chicago Academy of the Arts: \"cultural appropriation\" is \"the use of elements of other people\'s culture, especially when it does not show understanding or respect of the culture.\" If translated as the behavior of people in one cultural background using cultural elements, items, styles, themes, etc. in another cultural background. Then it is a neutral word with no right or wrong, it can be understood as a kind of cultural exchange, which is also advanced by the world. However, if it is interpreted as strong culture intended to use symbols in weak culture, including language, songs characters, works, arts, etc. then it is implicitly pejorative. In the 2022 autumn/winter collection presented by the French fashion house Dior, a half-length skirt was the focus of significant online discourse due to its resemblance to a traditional Chinese horse-face skirt. The topic of \"Dior plagiarism\" rapidly ascended to the forefront of Weibo\'s (a prominent social media platform in China) trending list, garnering significant attention from the public at large. This was due to the fact that Dior had not indicated the horse-face skirt as a source of inspiration for their design. The \"horse-face skirt\" is a quintessential style of women\'s clothing that dates back to the Ming and Qing dynasties, boasting a profound historical legacy and wide renown among enthusiasts of traditional Chinese attire. Those who possess a profound sense of cultural identity and belonging have perceived this as a form of disrespect towards Chinese culture. Examples of brand cultural appropriation include the 2019 Gucci show, where a white male model was adorned with a blue turban bearing a striking resemblance to a Sikh turban. This act was perceived as a deliberate affront to national religious and cultural sensibilities. In 2019, Louis Vuitton published a chair adorned with a traditional Mexican embroidery pattern from Hidalgo state, which was perceived as a misappropriation of cultural elements by the Mexican National Ministry of Culture. In 2020, Isabel Marant faced criticism from the Ministry for utilizing the design of traditional Mexican ethnic elements in their collections. An analysis of the dress in question revealed striking similarities to traditional Mexican styles in terms of both pattern and colour. It is also notable that Isabel Marant\'s official website does not include any acknowledgement of Mexican-style design. The term \'cultural appropriation\' is a critical one, and can be defined as a process of deconstruction that has a certain positive significance, including the resolution of cultural conflicts and the establishment of a link in the communication and innovation of cultures. However, it is imperative for individuals engaging in such practices to recognize the distinction between plagiarism and legitimate reference, and to acknowledge the significant contributions of traditional cultural practices to the enrichment of their own creative endeavors. This approach is fundamental to fostering harmonious and constructive cross-cultural interactions. ![](media/image2.jpg)Cultural misappropriation has also caused a lot of racial discrimination and the increase of stereotypes. Different ethnic group have different body, facial features and characteristics, this is a biological fact These differences make people different and create social boundaries and territories. However, this should not be equivalent to the hierarchy built by society that is not inherent in biology. There is a complete ranking system between different ethnic groups, which is like the hierarchy of people\'s physical characteristics based on facial and physical characteristics. These characteristics are highly politicised and racialised. When white people imitate the appearance of those at the bottom of the social ranking, it becomes bio racism. The American edition of Vogue recently published a photograph of a Chinese model named Qizhen Gao on its official social networking website, thereby igniting a contentious debate surrounding the subject of \"discrimination against Asians. "This act has been met with criticism, with certain individuals asserting that the publication of the photograph was a deliberate attempt to provoke and cause offence to Chinese and Asian individuals. They contend that the decision to feature an individual with an unconventional appearance, one that does not conform to mainstream standards of beauty, can be perceived as a stereotype and a form of discrimination against Asians. The negative stereotype is further entrenched by certain design and decoration practises of European and American brands, fashion shows and magazine editorials, which are often directed towards people who have been historically oppressed and discriminated against based on their appearance. This assertion is not merely the reinforcement of racial stereotypes, but also \"symbolic violence\" based on bio racism, which refers to the intangible social power imposed on subordinate groups by dominant groups. In February 2019, Gucci launched a new winter jumper. The black turtleneck jumper can be pulled to cover half of the face. There is a large red lip shape on the mouth, which is very similar to the black doll named Sambo. Sambo was the main character of the controversial children\'s book \"Little Black Sambo\", which was controversial because of its racial discrimination. Prada launched a doll accessory last year. The doll is black and has bright red lips. Like Gucci, this image reminds people of \"Little Black Sambo\" and the big round eyes and red lips of the ![](media/image4.jpg)\"black face\" in the 19th century. When H&M launched a new children\'s clothing line in January 2018, they accidentally let a black child wear a sweatshirt with the slogan \"coolest monkey in the jungle\". The other two white child models wore a sweatshirt with the slogan \"survival expert\" and animal patterns. After the pictures were put online, hundreds of people complained. H&M then removed the picture, but the clothes were still on sale. Qing Wang, a professor of marketing at Warwick Business School, stated that in the past, luxury brands frequently challenged the prevailing social and cultural norms using controversial and unconventional advertisements, often justifying these approaches as a form of creativity and innovation. However, a series of recent events has led to significant public outrage, indicating a possible shift in public sentiment or a disconnection between luxury brands and the prevailing cultural climate. The concept of \'creativity\' that was once considered acceptable has now been redefined as \'bad taste\' or even \'racism\'. The notion of creativity or design being used as a veil for \'racial discrimination\' has been dispelled. World-class brands are cognizant of their target audience from the outset of the design process, yet they persist in utilising controversial imagery. This is not a manifestation of creativity that can serve as a cover-up for past missteps. A notable illustration of this shift can be seen in the debut collection of Virgil Abloh, the founder of Off-White and the first black men\'s clothing art director in the history of Louis Vuitton, which featured predominantly racially diverse models, a first in the high fashion industry. Abloh\'s debut collection served as a testament to his belief that art can transcend racial, gender and geographical boundaries. At the same time cultural appropriation is diverse, In recent years, traditional elements has become more and more popular, Many national songs has been widely known by the young generations and traditional clothing have a wide audience. However cultural disputes are also widely focused by people's attention. For example in China, you can often hear about news like "south Korea wants to apply for an inheritance and 'steal culture'." K-Pop girl group IVE and their most recent music video have ignited considerable controversy among Chinese netizens. The video released alongside their title track "HEYA" was promoted to highlight traditional Korean cultural elements. However, netizens have criticized it for allegedly "stealing" Chinese cultural features and calling them Korean. To analyze this from different aspects, Culture is not static, but dynamic and constantly evolving. It evolves through communication, integration and innovation with other cultures. Therefore, the definition of culture should include its change and adaptation. Culture is characterized by its distinct locality, which is reflected in the unique customs and habits of a specific region. However, culture is also global in nature. The dissemination of cultural elements across national borders can be facilitated by various means, including communication, migration, trade, and other forms of interaction. These processes contribute to the formation of global influences. To summarize the preceding discussion, it can be stated that, in popular discourse, the concept of culture is attributed to a region when its elements are manifest in the region\'s daily life, folk customs, and cultural practices. These cultural elements then acquire a novel form of expression and meaning within the context of the region\'s geography and history. However, it is imperative to note that this does not equate to the origin of culture itself. For instance, in the past, neighboring countries on the Korean Peninsula, including Japan, Vietnam and Myanmar, adopted the practice of consuming rice with chopsticks, a custom influenced by Confucianism. This cultural influence extended to various aspects of society, including architectural style, etiquette and language. For instance, it is estimated that more than half of Korean words have their origins in Chinese, and there is also a considerable number of Chinese characters in Japanese. However, it should be noted that changes in the new geographical and historical background, as well as the era background, have occurred over time. These changes have also had a significant impact on the pronunciation and meaning of these words. In the music video of "HEYA" there has been elements like pipe, Korean Maedeup, these controversial cultural elements are a kind of cultural appropriation, they have their own historical biases in Korea, although it originated in China, it has also changed after hundreds of years, To summarize, the phenomenon of cultural appropriation must be considered from a multifaceted perspective. Cultural exchange is a reciprocal process, and the cultures of different countries are in a state of constant development and innovation. In today\'s globalized world, the mutual influence and integration of cultures is an inevitable phenomenon. Respecting and understanding cultural diversity can better promote international cultural exchanges and cooperation. Culture is a complex and dynamic concept, encompassing many levels, including material and non-material, local and global, inheritance and innovation. In the face of surrounding cultural disputes, it is imperative to adopt a comprehensive, open and understanding attitude towards the history and current state of cultural exchanges, whilst simultaneously respecting the diversity and sharing of cultures. This approach will facilitate the promotion of cultural exchanges and cooperation in the surrounding regions. ![](media/image6.jpeg)The controversial fashion show presented by Marc Jacobs, which featured the entire cast of models adorned in exaggerated woollen dreadlocks, has been met with criticism. Notably absent from the event were references to black cultural influences, a omission that has been met with further dissatisfaction given the conspicuous paucity of black models featured in the show. The recent surge in popularity of afro culture has prompted numerous ethnic groups to adopt dreadlocks, yet many of them remain unaware of their African roots. This tendency is perceived by many Africans as a manifestation of disrespect. This phenomenon is further compounded by the prevalence of racial discrimination, resulting in a sense of \"wearing my dreadlocks without acknowledging their belonging to me or even discriminating against me.\" This phenomenon can be regarded as ironic, given the historical context of the adoption of dreadlocks by various ethnic groups. dreadlocks has been both a fashionable fad and an important way for people to express their identity and cultural background. In the past, Black men and women have been subjected to prejudice and discrimination based on their natural hair and distinctive hairstyles. This is particularly evident in the case of women, who often face pressure to straighten their hair to conform to conventional beauty standards and fit into mainstream society. Consequently, the practice of non-Black individuals sporting dreadlocks may, in certain instances, be perceived as contentious, as it is regarded as an improper misappropriation or cultural appropriation of Black cultural heritage, particularly when the cultural context is not comprehended. It is a method employed by them to protect their culture. Following an investigation into the opinions of acquaintances about cultural appropriation, it became evident that we all held divergent views on the subject. They articulated their personal attitudes towards the appropriation of Chinese culture, expressing strong feelings on the matter. For instance, when observing foreigners\' appreciation for Chinese attire, most Chinese individuals view it as a positive development that encourages the public to become acquainted with and appreciate Chinese culture. While there is a clear sense of pride in this cultural exchange, it is crucial to recognise the importance of respecting the historical and cultural context of Chinese culture. Over the past 5,000 years, Chinese culture has evolved significantly and is not open to being appropriated or replaced. Brands can contribute to promoting traditional Chinese dress culture by clearly labelling the source and collaborating with Chinese designers and promoters to promote cultural understanding and respect. Exchange and dissemination of culture is possible, but only if respect is given. If brands or designers wish to utilise a country\'s culture, they should collaborate with local designers or educate themselves on the cultural background, rather than using it directly. This is the only way to ensure that culture is both spread and protected in the globalised world. The issue of cultural appropriation is of particular concern, as it undermines intercultural respect and understanding, weakening the authenticity and value of traditional cultures in the process. This, in turn, negatively impacts the cultural development of countries and international relations, often leading to misunderstanding, prejudice, and the exacerbation of intercultural inequality. To achieve meaningful cultural exchange, it is essential that countries worldwide value each other\'s traditions and insights with mutual respect, refrain from treating other cultures in a stereotypical or disrespectful manner and collaborate to foster a more inclusive and harmonious globalised society. Cultrural appropriation has always been a complex and multifaced issue, intersecting with cultural identity, globalization, and ethical representation. When people exchange cultures, it can lead to new ideas. But if people take without giving respect or acknowledgement, it can go against this. It can lead to stereotypes, a loss of cultural authenticity, and social inequalities. For example, when fashion brands like Dior and Gucci misunderstands or disrespect cultural elements, it can lead to strong negative reactions, showing how important it is to balance appreciation and respect with avoiding exploitation. Fashion, as a global language, has the power to celebrate cultural diversity and foster connections. But when it comes to disrespect and misappropriation of cultural symbols, it is detached from cultural and historical significance. This not only alienates the communities these symbols originate from but also risks homogenizing cultural narratives in the face of globalization. It is essential for designers, individuals and brand to treat different cultural elements with respect, By adopting this approach, people can prevent cultural appropriation, the fashion industry and other cultural sectors can contribute to a more inclusive global dialogue that honours the richness and diversity of the world\'s cultures. Bibliography [ ] https://about.hm.com/news/general-news-2018/h-m-issues-unequivocal-apology-for-poorly-judged-product-and-ima.html Pictures books The Great Han: Race, Nationalism and Tradition in China Today Cultural Appropriation in Fashion and Entertainment Cultural Appropriation in Fashion, Dress and Appearance

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