108 Questions
name the 3 structures of the hair, list 3 points for each, and also list how perming solution affects each
cuticle overlapping layers 10% weight disulfide bonds broken and reformed
context middle layer 90% weight strength and elasticity swells and softens for penetration to the cortex
medulla no known purpose takes up space sometimes is absent no chemical change
name and list 5 points for each side bond
disulfide chemical 2 sulfer atoms chemical strongest few 1/3 salt physical opposite electrical charge change in PH weak lots 1/3 hydrogen physical opposite electrical charge heat and water weakest lots 1/3
how long should a client wait yo shampoo their hair after receiving a perm?
48 hours
list the 10 steps ins a client consultation
meet/greet current style prefrence analyze lifestyle pictures options colour reccomendations maintnence review
20 steps to a perm procedure
apply cream mist and apply cotton mix solution apply solution change cotton bag process (5-10 min) test curl rinse (5 min) towel blot change cotton apply 3/4 neutralizer process remove rods apply 1/4 neutralizer process (1 min) clean up rinse conditioner rinse and style
what is the test for metallic salts?
in a glass or plastic bowl mix 28% of ammonia and 20 volume place 20 strand of hair in the solution for 30 min
name the 3 main perms, their PH, active ingredient, type of hair they're used on, heat source and type of curl
alkaline 9-9.6 ATG coarse tight room temp acid balance 7.8-8.2 GMTG med/colour treated stronger then true acid room temp true acid 4.7-7 GMTG fine weak hooded dryer
name the 2 chemical relaxers their PH, active ingredient, and type of hair they're used on
thio 10 ATG fine/colour treated Hydroxide 13+ hydroxide ion coarse
name the chemical reaction that breaks the disulfide bonds
reduction reaction
what is the chemical reaction that reforms disulfide bonds?
neutralization
__________ is the alkalizing agent in permanent waving
ammonium hydroxide
describe the difference between endothermic and exothermic perm
endo- outside heat source like a hooded dryer or blow dryer exo- creates heat source within itself
describe over and under processed hair and what happens to each if the solution is left on longer
under- straight on top curly on bottom not enough disulfide bonds broken over- curly on top straight on bottom too many disulfide bonds broken
what are the two jobs of a neutralizer?
restoring PH balance fixing new shape of hair
what information do you get from a preliminary test curl
what shape the curl will be, how long it will take to process, and the solution needed
end papers
papers to control ends of hair
PH
potential hydrogen
side bonds
amino acids
peptide bonds
peptide chain of amino acids
keratin
protein in the hair
base section
subsections of panels
base placement
on half and off base
base direction
the angle the hair is wrapped on the perm rod
chemical hair relaxer
straightens curly hair
base cream
protects skin
base relaxer
relaxer that straightens or loosens natural curl
no base relaxer
a relaxer that you can use without a base cream
strand test
to test the curl and the affects it has from neutralizer
lanthonization
the removal of sulfer
keratin shooting treatment
relaxes curly hair
name the 2 wrapping techniques
croquignole spiral
what is the purpose of a soft curl perm
to loosen a tight curl or wave
what are the two steps in a soft curl procedure
prep and curl
you must shampoo a minimum of three times before a hydroxide relaxer
False
you must wait ______hrs before shampooing to get a permanent wave
48
what is the natural PH of hair and skin
4.5-5.5
describe viscosity
the thickness or thinness of a liquid
chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains are ______ bonds
peptide
poly peptide chains are long chains of amino acids joined together by
peptide bonds
Keratin proteins are made of long chains of ________________ linked together end-to-end like beads.
amino acids
what type of bond forms when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together
disulfide
the action of alkaline permanent waving lotion is to soften and
expand the hair
the chemical action of __________ breaks the disulfide bond through a chemical reaction called reduction
waving lotion
_______ hair with a strong resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a stronger and more highly alkaline waving solution
coarse
_________ hair with a damaged cuticle layer is easily penetrated and could be further damaged by a highly alkaline permanent waving solution
porous
the alkalinity of the perm chosen should correspond to the resistance strength and ________ of the cuticle layer
size
what is the main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms
sodium hydroxide
what is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid balanced waving lotions
ammonium thioglycolate
waves that produce firmer curls than true acid waves are _______
acid balanced waves
what type of perm Is activated by heat created chemically within the product
exothermic
a perm activated by an outside heat source usually a conventional hood dryer is known as
endothermic
what type of hair is more fragile easier to process and more susceptible ro damage from perm
fine
what toe of hair usually requires more processing that medium or fine hair and may also be more resistant to processing
coarse
the amount of processing should be determined by the _________ not necessarily the perms processing time
strength of the solution
in permanent waving most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair within the first________ minutes
five to ten
a properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild about _______ percent of the hairs disulfide bonds
50
if too many _______ bonds are broken in them perming process the hair will be too weak to hold a firm culr
disulfide
if the hair is under processed further processing will make it
curlier
neutralization rebuilds ________- that were broken by the waving solution
disulfide bonds
always rinse perm solutions from the hair for at least _________ min before applying the neutralizer
five
some manufactures recommend the application of a ________ after plotting and before application of the neutralizer
pre neutralizing conditioner
what type of liquid protein conditioner can be applied to the hair and dried under a warm dryer for 5 min or more prior to the neutralization if hair is damaged
acidic
thio neutralization rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the _______ that was added by the permanent waving solution
preliminary test curl
which type of rods have a small diameter in the centre area and gradually increases to their largest diameter at the ends
concave
straight rods are equal in _______ along their entire length or curling area and produce a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand
diameter
end papers or end wraps are thin absorbent papers used to ______- of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rods
control the ends
the _____ is a perm wrap in which in which on end paper is placed under and another is placed over the stand of the hair being wrapped
double flat wrap
base placements refers to the position of the rids in relation to its ________ and is determined bt the angle at which the hair is wrapped
base sedction
for _________ the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section and the Tod is positioned half off its base section
half off base placement
for _________ the hair is wrapped 45 degrees below the centre of the base section so that the rod is positioned completely off its base section
off base placement
the ______ wrap os wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod like the striped on a candy cane
spiral
a method of wrapping a permanent wave that is suitable for very long hair that is the ________
double rod wrap
the basic perm wrap is also called a __________ wrap
straight set
in the ______ wrap partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head
curvature
the ______ wrap uses zigzag partings to divide base areas
weave technique
in order to make a smooth transition from the rolled section of the head to an unrolled section use a larger rod for the last rod next to an unrolled section when giving a ______________
partial perm
many male clients are looking for added ________ fullness style and low mainteness that only a perm can provide
texture
metallic sats leave a coating on the hair that may cause __________ sever discolouration or hair breakage
uneven curls
when preforming a procedure for a preliminary test curl wrap one rod in each different are of the head including the top the side and the ________
nape
what process permanently rearranges the basic structure of curly hair into a straight or smoother form
chemical hair relaxing
the most common types of chemical hair relaxers are ammonium thio guanidine hydroxide and ________
sodium hydroxide
the measurement of thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows is known as _______
viscosity
before giving a relaxing treatment to curly hair the cosmetologist must preform an analysis of the clients hair and scalp resting for porosity and _______ on several areas of the head
elasticity
in _______ the process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair the relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond
lanthionization
relaxers that are ionic compounds formed bt a metal combined with oxygen and hydrogen are known as
metal hydroxide relaxers
sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called _________--
lye relaxers
the action of a guanidine hydroxide or no lye relaxer causes the hair to _________
soften and swell
_________ relaxers are intended for use on colour treated damaged or fine hair
low PH
hydroxide relaxers are usually sold in _______ formulas
base and no base
the scalp and skin are protected from possible burns when using a base hair relaxer by applying
base cream
using a no base relaxer a protective cream may be applied ______
on the hairline and around the ears
general guidelines suggest that for fine colour treated or damaged hair an _________ strength relaxer should be used
strong or super
inspecting the action of the relaxer by smoothing and pressing the strand to the scalp is called
periodic strand testing
to check relaxer processing smooth and press a strand to the scalp using the back of the comb or your finger if the curl returns ____________
continue processing
when applying hydroxide relaxer on virgin hair the processing cream is applied last to the ______ and ________
scalp area and hair ends
the product is applied first to the ______ when preforming a sodium hydroxide retouch
new growth only
what product is used to restore the hair to a normal acidic PH
normalizing lotion
the best type of shampoo to use after the chemical relaxer is an _________
neutralizing shampoo
a hair relaxing treatment should be avoided when an examination shows the presence of _______
scalp abrasions
what is one safety precaution that must be followed with all chemical hair relaxing services
wearing protective gloves
one safety percaution for hair relaxing is to avoid _______ the scalp with the comp of fingernails
scratching
after the hair has been processed with a relaxer and before the shampoo the hair should be thoroughly ________
rinsed
when hair has been sufficiently straightened the hair is rinsed rapidly and thoroughly with _____ water
warm
keratin straightening treatments work by fixing the keratin in place in ________ manner they do not break bonds
semi permanent
a _____ is a thio based chemical service that reformats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curl and waves
soft curl permanents
when using the comb method of application how is the relaxing cream applied
with the back of the comb
after saturating the rids with neutralizer in a soft curl permanent and processing according to manufactures directions the next step is to ______
rinse with the rods still in the hair
when processing is complete for soft curl permanent what is done after rinsing the hair thoroughly ______ with warm water
conditioner is applied
Test your knowledge of hair structure, perming solution effects, shampooing after a perm, client consultation steps, perm procedure steps, and metallic salts test. This quiz covers the 3 structures of the hair, the effects of perming solution on each structure, shampooing guidelines after a perm, 10 steps in a client consultation, 20 steps to a perm procedure, and the test for metallic salts.
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