final perm exam

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name the 3 structures of the hair, list 3 points for each, and also list how perming solution affects each

cuticle overlapping layers 10% weight disulfide bonds broken and reformed

context middle layer 90% weight strength and elasticity swells and softens for penetration to the cortex

medulla no known purpose takes up space sometimes is absent no chemical change

name and list 5 points for each side bond

disulfide chemical 2 sulfer atoms chemical strongest few 1/3 salt physical opposite electrical charge change in PH weak lots 1/3 hydrogen physical opposite electrical charge heat and water weakest lots 1/3

how long should a client wait yo shampoo their hair after receiving a perm?

48 hours

list the 10 steps ins a client consultation

meet/greet current style prefrence analyze lifestyle pictures options colour reccomendations maintnence review Signup and view all the answers

20 steps to a perm procedure

apply cream mist and apply cotton mix solution apply solution change cotton bag process (5-10 min) test curl rinse (5 min) towel blot change cotton apply 3/4 neutralizer process remove rods apply 1/4 neutralizer process (1 min) clean up rinse conditioner rinse and style Signup and view all the answers

what is the test for metallic salts?

in a glass or plastic bowl mix 28% of ammonia and 20 volume place 20 strand of hair in the solution for 30 min Signup and view all the answers

name the 3 main perms, their PH, active ingredient, type of hair they're used on, heat source and type of curl

alkaline 9-9.6 ATG coarse tight room temp acid balance 7.8-8.2 GMTG med/colour treated stronger then true acid room temp true acid 4.7-7 GMTG fine weak hooded dryer Signup and view all the answers

name the 2 chemical relaxers their PH, active ingredient, and type of hair they're used on

thio 10 ATG fine/colour treated Hydroxide 13+ hydroxide ion coarse Signup and view all the answers

name the chemical reaction that breaks the disulfide bonds

reduction reaction Signup and view all the answers

what is the chemical reaction that reforms disulfide bonds?

neutralization Signup and view all the answers

__________ is the alkalizing agent in permanent waving

ammonium hydroxide Signup and view all the answers

describe the difference between endothermic and exothermic perm

endo- outside heat source like a hooded dryer or blow dryer exo- creates heat source within itself Signup and view all the answers

describe over and under processed hair and what happens to each if the solution is left on longer

under- straight on top curly on bottom not enough disulfide bonds broken over- curly on top straight on bottom too many disulfide bonds broken Signup and view all the answers

what are the two jobs of a neutralizer?

restoring PH balance fixing new shape of hair Signup and view all the answers

what information do you get from a preliminary test curl

what shape the curl will be, how long it will take to process, and the solution needed Signup and view all the answers

end papers

papers to control ends of hair Signup and view all the answers

PH

potential hydrogen Signup and view all the answers

side bonds

amino acids Signup and view all the answers

peptide bonds

peptide chain of amino acids Signup and view all the answers

keratin

protein in the hair Signup and view all the answers

base section

subsections of panels Signup and view all the answers

base placement

on half and off base Signup and view all the answers

base direction

the angle the hair is wrapped on the perm rod Signup and view all the answers

chemical hair relaxer

straightens curly hair Signup and view all the answers

base cream

protects skin Signup and view all the answers

base relaxer

relaxer that straightens or loosens natural curl Signup and view all the answers

no base relaxer

a relaxer that you can use without a base cream Signup and view all the answers

strand test

to test the curl and the affects it has from neutralizer Signup and view all the answers

lanthonization

the removal of sulfer Signup and view all the answers

keratin shooting treatment

relaxes curly hair Signup and view all the answers

name the 2 wrapping techniques

croquignole spiral Signup and view all the answers

what is the purpose of a soft curl perm

to loosen a tight curl or wave Signup and view all the answers

what are the two steps in a soft curl procedure

prep and curl Signup and view all the answers

you must shampoo a minimum of three times before a hydroxide relaxer

False Signup and view all the answers

you must wait ______hrs before shampooing to get a permanent wave

48 Signup and view all the answers

what is the natural PH of hair and skin

4.5-5.5 Signup and view all the answers

describe viscosity

the thickness or thinness of a liquid Signup and view all the answers

chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains are ______ bonds

peptide Signup and view all the answers

poly peptide chains are long chains of amino acids joined together by

peptide bonds Signup and view all the answers

Keratin proteins are made of long chains of ________________ linked together end-to-end like beads.

amino acids Signup and view all the answers

what type of bond forms when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together

disulfide Signup and view all the answers

the action of alkaline permanent waving lotion is to soften and

expand the hair Signup and view all the answers

the chemical action of __________ breaks the disulfide bond through a chemical reaction called reduction

waving lotion Signup and view all the answers

_______ hair with a strong resistant cuticle layer needs the additional swelling and penetration that is provided by a stronger and more highly alkaline waving solution

coarse Signup and view all the answers

_________ hair with a damaged cuticle layer is easily penetrated and could be further damaged by a highly alkaline permanent waving solution

porous Signup and view all the answers

the alkalinity of the perm chosen should correspond to the resistance strength and ________ of the cuticle layer

size Signup and view all the answers

what is the main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms

sodium hydroxide Signup and view all the answers

what is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid balanced waving lotions

ammonium thioglycolate Signup and view all the answers

waves that produce firmer curls than true acid waves are _______

acid balanced waves Signup and view all the answers

what type of perm Is activated by heat created chemically within the product

exothermic Signup and view all the answers

a perm activated by an outside heat source usually a conventional hood dryer is known as

endothermic Signup and view all the answers

what type of hair is more fragile easier to process and more susceptible ro damage from perm

fine Signup and view all the answers

what toe of hair usually requires more processing that medium or fine hair and may also be more resistant to processing

coarse Signup and view all the answers

the amount of processing should be determined by the _________ not necessarily the perms processing time

strength of the solution Signup and view all the answers

in permanent waving most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair within the first________ minutes

five to ten Signup and view all the answers

a properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild about _______ percent of the hairs disulfide bonds

50 Signup and view all the answers

if too many _______ bonds are broken in them perming process the hair will be too weak to hold a firm culr

disulfide Signup and view all the answers

if the hair is under processed further processing will make it

curlier Signup and view all the answers

neutralization rebuilds ________- that were broken by the waving solution

disulfide bonds Signup and view all the answers

always rinse perm solutions from the hair for at least _________ min before applying the neutralizer

five Signup and view all the answers

some manufactures recommend the application of a ________ after plotting and before application of the neutralizer

pre neutralizing conditioner Signup and view all the answers

what type of liquid protein conditioner can be applied to the hair and dried under a warm dryer for 5 min or more prior to the neutralization if hair is damaged

acidic Signup and view all the answers

thio neutralization rebuilds the disulfide bonds by removing the _______ that was added by the permanent waving solution

preliminary test curl Signup and view all the answers

which type of rods have a small diameter in the centre area and gradually increases to their largest diameter at the ends

concave Signup and view all the answers

straight rods are equal in _______ along their entire length or curling area and produce a uniform curl along the entire width of the strand

diameter Signup and view all the answers

end papers or end wraps are thin absorbent papers used to ______- of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on the perm rods

control the ends Signup and view all the answers

the _____ is a perm wrap in which in which on end paper is placed under and another is placed over the stand of the hair being wrapped

double flat wrap Signup and view all the answers

base placements refers to the position of the rids in relation to its ________ and is determined bt the angle at which the hair is wrapped

base sedction Signup and view all the answers

for _________ the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees or perpendicular to its base section and the Tod is positioned half off its base section

half off base placement Signup and view all the answers

for _________ the hair is wrapped 45 degrees below the centre of the base section so that the rod is positioned completely off its base section

off base placement Signup and view all the answers

the ______ wrap os wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod like the striped on a candy cane

spiral Signup and view all the answers

a method of wrapping a permanent wave that is suitable for very long hair that is the ________

double rod wrap Signup and view all the answers

the basic perm wrap is also called a __________ wrap

straight set Signup and view all the answers

in the ______ wrap partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head

curvature Signup and view all the answers

the ______ wrap uses zigzag partings to divide base areas

weave technique Signup and view all the answers

in order to make a smooth transition from the rolled section of the head to an unrolled section use a larger rod for the last rod next to an unrolled section when giving a ______________

partial perm Signup and view all the answers

many male clients are looking for added ________ fullness style and low mainteness that only a perm can provide

texture Signup and view all the answers

metallic sats leave a coating on the hair that may cause __________ sever discolouration or hair breakage

uneven curls Signup and view all the answers

when preforming a procedure for a preliminary test curl wrap one rod in each different are of the head including the top the side and the ________

nape Signup and view all the answers

what process permanently rearranges the basic structure of curly hair into a straight or smoother form

chemical hair relaxing Signup and view all the answers

the most common types of chemical hair relaxers are ammonium thio guanidine hydroxide and ________

sodium hydroxide Signup and view all the answers

the measurement of thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows is known as _______

viscosity Signup and view all the answers

before giving a relaxing treatment to curly hair the cosmetologist must preform an analysis of the clients hair and scalp resting for porosity and _______ on several areas of the head

elasticity Signup and view all the answers

in _______ the process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair the relaxers remove a sulfur atom from a disulfide bond and convert it into a lanthionine bond

lanthionization Signup and view all the answers

relaxers that are ionic compounds formed bt a metal combined with oxygen and hydrogen are known as

metal hydroxide relaxers Signup and view all the answers

sodium hydroxide relaxers are commonly called _________--

lye relaxers Signup and view all the answers

the action of a guanidine hydroxide or no lye relaxer causes the hair to _________

soften and swell Signup and view all the answers

_________ relaxers are intended for use on colour treated damaged or fine hair

low PH Signup and view all the answers

hydroxide relaxers are usually sold in _______ formulas

base and no base Signup and view all the answers

the scalp and skin are protected from possible burns when using a base hair relaxer by applying

base cream Signup and view all the answers

using a no base relaxer a protective cream may be applied ______

on the hairline and around the ears Signup and view all the answers

general guidelines suggest that for fine colour treated or damaged hair an _________ strength relaxer should be used

strong or super Signup and view all the answers

inspecting the action of the relaxer by smoothing and pressing the strand to the scalp is called

periodic strand testing Signup and view all the answers

to check relaxer processing smooth and press a strand to the scalp using the back of the comb or your finger if the curl returns ____________

continue processing Signup and view all the answers

when applying hydroxide relaxer on virgin hair the processing cream is applied last to the and __

scalp area and hair ends Signup and view all the answers

the product is applied first to the ______ when preforming a sodium hydroxide retouch

new growth only Signup and view all the answers

what product is used to restore the hair to a normal acidic PH

normalizing lotion Signup and view all the answers

the best type of shampoo to use after the chemical relaxer is an _________

neutralizing shampoo Signup and view all the answers

a hair relaxing treatment should be avoided when an examination shows the presence of _______

scalp abrasions Signup and view all the answers

what is one safety precaution that must be followed with all chemical hair relaxing services

wearing protective gloves Signup and view all the answers

one safety percaution for hair relaxing is to avoid _______ the scalp with the comp of fingernails

scratching Signup and view all the answers

after the hair has been processed with a relaxer and before the shampoo the hair should be thoroughly ________

rinsed Signup and view all the answers

when hair has been sufficiently straightened the hair is rinsed rapidly and thoroughly with _____ water

warm Signup and view all the answers

keratin straightening treatments work by fixing the keratin in place in ________ manner they do not break bonds

semi permanent Signup and view all the answers

a _____ is a thio based chemical service that reformats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curl and waves

soft curl permanents Signup and view all the answers

when using the comb method of application how is the relaxing cream applied

with the back of the comb Signup and view all the answers

after saturating the rids with neutralizer in a soft curl permanent and processing according to manufactures directions the next step is to ______

rinse with the rods still in the hair Signup and view all the answers

when processing is complete for soft curl permanent what is done after rinsing the hair thoroughly ______ with warm water

conditioner is applied Signup and view all the answers