Wind and Water Motion
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Questions and Answers

Which type of sediment is typically found on beaches with high energy environments?

  • Angular sand grains (correct)
  • Rocks
  • Rounded sand grains
  • Pebbles and sand grains

    • What is the main difference between sand from a beach and sand from a desert?

  • Desert sand is more rounded
  • Beach sand is larger in size
  • Beach sand is more angular (correct)
  • Desert sand is larger in size

    • What does the presence of poorly sorted sediments in an area indicate?

  • A low energy environment
  • A high energy environment
  • A mix of high and low energy environments (correct)
  • A lack of sediment

    • Which term is used to describe a wave when the wave base is touching the sea floor?

    <p>Shallow water wave</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What happens to the energy of a wave as it approaches the shore?

    <p>The energy is transferred into the bottom</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What causes a wave to break?

    <p>Increase in wave height</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which term refers to the boundary between the land and the water?

    <p>Shoreline</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the difference between the shore and the coast?

    <p>The shore extends inland as far as all ocean-related features, while the coast is the seaward edge of where you see ocean-related features</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What causes ocean waves?

    <p>Wind</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a wave?

    <p>A disturbance that carries energy</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the difference between ocean waves and electromagnetic waves?

    <p>Ocean waves require a medium to travel, while electromagnetic waves do not</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the amplitude of a wave?

    <p>The distance from the undisturbed position to the top of a crest or the bottom of a trough</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which factor determines the size of ocean waves?

    <p>The wind speed</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the relationship between wave period and wave speed?

    <p>Wave period and wave speed are inversely proportional</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How are large waves generated in the middle of the ocean without wind?

    <p>They are generated by winter storms in the open ocean</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which process contributes to the formation of beaches?

    <p>Deposition of sand</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the main source of sand on beaches?

    <p>Erosion of mountains</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What can be inferred about the sand on beaches by examining it under a microscope?

    <p>It shows the original rock type</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How long does it typically take for geological processes to significantly impact coastlines?

    <p>Millions of years</p> Signup and view all the answers

    In some cases, how quickly can coastlines be affected by geological processes?

    <p>A few hundred years</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which term describes the bending of a wave when it enters a medium in which its speed changes?

    <p>Refraction</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which direction do rip currents typically flow in relation to the shoreline?

    <p>Away from the shoreline</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the movement of water along the beach face called?

    <p>Longshore current</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What causes the energy of waves to be directed towards the headlands and result in coastal straightening?

    <p>Wave refraction</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which direction does the sand move along the beach?

    <p>Sideways</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the name for the process of the wave pushing the sand up the beach and gravity pulling it back down?

    <p>Swash and backwash</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the name for the current that flows along the beach and drives beach drift?

    <p>Longshore current</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What causes the waves to bend and become more parallel to the coastline as they approach the shore?

    <p>Refraction</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which type of coastline is characterized by tectonic uplift and erosion?

    <p>Emergent coastline</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the term for the flat platform caused by wave erosion at low tide?

    <p>Wave cut cut platform</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the term for the raised platform above the wave cut platform, indicating a past sea level?

    <p>Marine terrace</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What geological process is responsible for pushing up the coastline in California?

    <p>Subduction</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which type of coast is characterized by erosional features like wave cut cliffs and marine terraces?

    <p>Emergent coast</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is an estuary?

    <p>A coastal area with both fresh water and salt water</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a sea arch?

    <p>A rock layer weakened by erosion</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a wave cut platform?

    <p>A flat area of rock at the base of a cliff</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the process by which tall pine trees are pushed above their climate zone and grow as dwarf trees?

    <p>Erosion</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the term used to describe a stack of rocks that remains after a sea arch collapses?

    <p>Sea stack</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the term used to describe a ridge of sand extending from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay?

    <p>Sea spit</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the term used to describe a ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland?

    <p>Baymouth bar</p> Signup and view all the answers

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