Wind and Water Motion

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Questions and Answers

Which type of sediment is typically found on beaches with high energy environments?

  • Angular sand grains (correct)
  • Rocks
  • Rounded sand grains
  • Pebbles and sand grains

What is the main difference between sand from a beach and sand from a desert?

  • Desert sand is more rounded
  • Beach sand is larger in size
  • Beach sand is more angular (correct)
  • Desert sand is larger in size

What does the presence of poorly sorted sediments in an area indicate?

  • A low energy environment
  • A high energy environment
  • A mix of high and low energy environments (correct)
  • A lack of sediment

Which term is used to describe a wave when the wave base is touching the sea floor?

<p>Shallow water wave (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What happens to the energy of a wave as it approaches the shore?

<p>The energy is transferred into the bottom (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What causes a wave to break?

<p>Increase in wave height (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which term refers to the boundary between the land and the water?

<p>Shoreline (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the difference between the shore and the coast?

<p>The shore extends inland as far as all ocean-related features, while the coast is the seaward edge of where you see ocean-related features (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What causes ocean waves?

<p>Wind (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a wave?

<p>A disturbance that carries energy (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the difference between ocean waves and electromagnetic waves?

<p>Ocean waves require a medium to travel, while electromagnetic waves do not (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the amplitude of a wave?

<p>The distance from the undisturbed position to the top of a crest or the bottom of a trough (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which factor determines the size of ocean waves?

<p>The wind speed (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the relationship between wave period and wave speed?

<p>Wave period and wave speed are inversely proportional (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How are large waves generated in the middle of the ocean without wind?

<p>They are generated by winter storms in the open ocean (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which process contributes to the formation of beaches?

<p>Deposition of sand (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the main source of sand on beaches?

<p>Erosion of mountains (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What can be inferred about the sand on beaches by examining it under a microscope?

<p>It shows the original rock type (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How long does it typically take for geological processes to significantly impact coastlines?

<p>Millions of years (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

In some cases, how quickly can coastlines be affected by geological processes?

<p>A few hundred years (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which term describes the bending of a wave when it enters a medium in which its speed changes?

<p>Refraction (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which direction do rip currents typically flow in relation to the shoreline?

<p>Away from the shoreline (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the movement of water along the beach face called?

<p>Longshore current (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What causes the energy of waves to be directed towards the headlands and result in coastal straightening?

<p>Wave refraction (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which direction does the sand move along the beach?

<p>Sideways (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the name for the process of the wave pushing the sand up the beach and gravity pulling it back down?

<p>Swash and backwash (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the name for the current that flows along the beach and drives beach drift?

<p>Longshore current (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What causes the waves to bend and become more parallel to the coastline as they approach the shore?

<p>Refraction (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which type of coastline is characterized by tectonic uplift and erosion?

<p>Emergent coastline (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the flat platform caused by wave erosion at low tide?

<p>Wave cut cut platform (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the raised platform above the wave cut platform, indicating a past sea level?

<p>Marine terrace (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What geological process is responsible for pushing up the coastline in California?

<p>Subduction (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which type of coast is characterized by erosional features like wave cut cliffs and marine terraces?

<p>Emergent coast (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is an estuary?

<p>A coastal area with both fresh water and salt water (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a sea arch?

<p>A rock layer weakened by erosion (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a wave cut platform?

<p>A flat area of rock at the base of a cliff (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the process by which tall pine trees are pushed above their climate zone and grow as dwarf trees?

<p>Erosion (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the term used to describe a stack of rocks that remains after a sea arch collapses?

<p>Sea stack (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the term used to describe a ridge of sand extending from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay?

<p>Sea spit (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the term used to describe a ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland?

<p>Baymouth bar (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

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