Wind and Water Motion

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Which type of sediment is typically found on beaches with high energy environments?

Angular sand grains (correct)

Rocks

Rounded sand grains

Pebbles and sand grains

What is the main difference between sand from a beach and sand from a desert?

Desert sand is more rounded

Beach sand is larger in size

Beach sand is more angular (correct)

Desert sand is larger in size

What does the presence of poorly sorted sediments in an area indicate?

A low energy environment

A high energy environment

A mix of high and low energy environments (correct)

A lack of sediment

Which term is used to describe a wave when the wave base is touching the sea floor?

Shallow water wave (A) Signup and view all the answers

What happens to the energy of a wave as it approaches the shore?

The energy is transferred into the bottom (A) Signup and view all the answers

What causes a wave to break?

Increase in wave height (A) Signup and view all the answers

Which term refers to the boundary between the land and the water?

Shoreline (A) Signup and view all the answers

What is the difference between the shore and the coast?

The shore extends inland as far as all ocean-related features, while the coast is the seaward edge of where you see ocean-related features (D) Signup and view all the answers

What causes ocean waves?

Wind (A) Signup and view all the answers

What is a wave?

A disturbance that carries energy (B) Signup and view all the answers

What is the difference between ocean waves and electromagnetic waves?

Ocean waves require a medium to travel, while electromagnetic waves do not (D) Signup and view all the answers

What is the amplitude of a wave?

The distance from the undisturbed position to the top of a crest or the bottom of a trough (D) Signup and view all the answers

Which factor determines the size of ocean waves?

The wind speed (B) Signup and view all the answers

What is the relationship between wave period and wave speed?

Wave period and wave speed are inversely proportional (A) Signup and view all the answers

How are large waves generated in the middle of the ocean without wind?

They are generated by winter storms in the open ocean (D) Signup and view all the answers

Which process contributes to the formation of beaches?

Deposition of sand (C) Signup and view all the answers

What is the main source of sand on beaches?

Erosion of mountains (A) Signup and view all the answers

What can be inferred about the sand on beaches by examining it under a microscope?

It shows the original rock type (B) Signup and view all the answers

How long does it typically take for geological processes to significantly impact coastlines?

Millions of years (D) Signup and view all the answers

In some cases, how quickly can coastlines be affected by geological processes?

A few hundred years (B) Signup and view all the answers

Which term describes the bending of a wave when it enters a medium in which its speed changes?

Refraction (B) Signup and view all the answers

Which direction do rip currents typically flow in relation to the shoreline?

Away from the shoreline (D) Signup and view all the answers

What is the movement of water along the beach face called?

Longshore current (A) Signup and view all the answers

What causes the energy of waves to be directed towards the headlands and result in coastal straightening?

Wave refraction (D) Signup and view all the answers

Which direction does the sand move along the beach?

Sideways (D) Signup and view all the answers

What is the name for the process of the wave pushing the sand up the beach and gravity pulling it back down?

Swash and backwash (C) Signup and view all the answers

What is the name for the current that flows along the beach and drives beach drift?

Longshore current (B) Signup and view all the answers

What causes the waves to bend and become more parallel to the coastline as they approach the shore?

Refraction (C) Signup and view all the answers

Which type of coastline is characterized by tectonic uplift and erosion?

Emergent coastline (C) Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the flat platform caused by wave erosion at low tide?

Wave cut cut platform (A) Signup and view all the answers

What is the term for the raised platform above the wave cut platform, indicating a past sea level?

Marine terrace (B) Signup and view all the answers

What geological process is responsible for pushing up the coastline in California?

Subduction (B) Signup and view all the answers

Which type of coast is characterized by erosional features like wave cut cliffs and marine terraces?

Emergent coast (B) Signup and view all the answers

What is an estuary?

A coastal area with both fresh water and salt water (D) Signup and view all the answers

What is a sea arch?

A rock layer weakened by erosion (C) Signup and view all the answers

What is a wave cut platform?

A flat area of rock at the base of a cliff (D) Signup and view all the answers

What is the process by which tall pine trees are pushed above their climate zone and grow as dwarf trees?

Erosion (D) Signup and view all the answers

What is the term used to describe a stack of rocks that remains after a sea arch collapses?

Sea stack (B) Signup and view all the answers

What is the term used to describe a ridge of sand extending from the land into the mouth of an adjacent bay?

Sea spit (A) Signup and view all the answers

What is the term used to describe a ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland?

Baymouth bar (B) Signup and view all the answers