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Questions and Answers
Which type of wave moves the medium back and forth parallel to the wave direction?
Which type of wave moves the medium back and forth parallel to the wave direction?
Which type of wave moves the medium perpendicular to the wave direction?
Which type of wave moves the medium perpendicular to the wave direction?
Which type of wave is the most destructive and can move through solids and liquids?
Which type of wave is the most destructive and can move through solids and liquids?
According to the lecture, what is a wave?
According to the lecture, what is a wave?
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What is the primary force that sets ocean waves into motion?
What is the primary force that sets ocean waves into motion?
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What causes the formation of internal waves in the ocean?
What causes the formation of internal waves in the ocean?
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Which type of wave is created when you clap your hands?
Which type of wave is created when you clap your hands?
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What is the primary driving factor for most waves in the ocean?
What is the primary driving factor for most waves in the ocean?
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What is the average wave period for most waves in the ocean?
What is the average wave period for most waves in the ocean?
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Which term describes the distance between two successive crests of a water wave?
Which term describes the distance between two successive crests of a water wave?
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What is the wave base of a water wave?
What is the wave base of a water wave?
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What is the wave frequency of a sound wave?
What is the wave frequency of a sound wave?
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According to the text, what is the relationship between wavelength and wave speed?
According to the text, what is the relationship between wavelength and wave speed?
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What is the formula for calculating wave speed?
What is the formula for calculating wave speed?
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When does a wave become a shallow water wave?
When does a wave become a shallow water wave?
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Which unit of measurement is used to describe the length of the waves in the text?
Which unit of measurement is used to describe the length of the waves in the text?
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What is the approximate length of the waves mentioned in the text in centimeters?
What is the approximate length of the waves mentioned in the text in centimeters?
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What type of waves are formed when the wind blows lightly across the water surface?
What type of waves are formed when the wind blows lightly across the water surface?
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What type of waves are formed when the wind blows continuously across the water surface?
What type of waves are formed when the wind blows continuously across the water surface?
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Which type of waves have a wavelength greater than 1?
Which type of waves have a wavelength greater than 1?
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Which type of wave is considered a shallow water wave?
Which type of wave is considered a shallow water wave?
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What causes the orbits of shallow water waves to become progressively flattened?
What causes the orbits of shallow water waves to become progressively flattened?
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What factor determines the speed of a transitional wave?
What factor determines the speed of a transitional wave?
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What are the characteristics of capillary waves?
What are the characteristics of capillary waves?
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What are the first waves that form when wind blows over the ocean surface?
What are the first waves that form when wind blows over the ocean surface?
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Which type of wave interference increases wave amplitude?
Which type of wave interference increases wave amplitude?
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What is the main cause of rogue waves?
What is the main cause of rogue waves?
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Which factor affects wave energy?
Which factor affects wave energy?
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What are rogue waves?
What are rogue waves?
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Where do rogue waves tend to occur more frequently?
Where do rogue waves tend to occur more frequently?
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Study Notes
Understanding Waves and Wave Interference
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Wave height increases more rapidly than wavelength, and wind speed must be higher than wave speed to impart more energy to the wave.
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Waves are categorized into capillary waves, gravity waves, and steepened waves (white caps).
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The area where wind-driven waves are generated is called the sea area.
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Factors affecting wave energy include wind speed, duration, and distance over which the wind blows.
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Most waves on the open ocean are less than two meters in height, but exceptionally large waves can occur.
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Fully developed seas are in an equilibrium condition where energy gained from the wind is balanced by energy lost to gravity and other factors.
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Waves move away from the sea area and smooth out as they become swell.
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Swell waves are uniform, symmetrical, and transport energy over long distances.
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Wave dispersion causes longer wavelength waves to move faster and separate into groups.
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Waves can interfere with each other, resulting in constructive or destructive interference.
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Constructive interference increases wave amplitude, while destructive interference cancels out waves.
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Rogue waves are massive, spontaneous, and unpredictable waves that can reach enormous heights and cause damage to ships.Rogue Waves and their Causes
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Rogue waves are suspected to be the cause of many ship sinkings each year.
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Scientists lack detailed shipboard measurements of rogue waves because they appear without warning and ships make poor observational platforms.
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The main cause of rogue waves is theorized to be constructive wave interference, where multiple waves overlap in phase to produce an extremely large wave.
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Rogue waves tend to occur more frequently near weather fronts and downwind from islands or shoals.
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Recent modeling suggests that rogue waves can be created when the low and high frequency components of ordinary ocean waves interact and channel their energy into a narrow frequency band.
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The formation of rogue waves is still being studied and not entirely understood.
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Rogue waves can be dangerous due to their unpredictability and sudden appearance.
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Ship sinkings caused by rogue waves highlight the need for better understanding and prediction of these phenomena.
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Rogue waves pose a significant risk to maritime safety and navigation.
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The lack of shipboard measurements of rogue waves makes it difficult to accurately assess their frequency and characteristics.
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Further research and study is needed to improve our understanding of rogue waves and develop effective mitigation strategies.
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The study of waves in the surf zone will be continued in the next chapter.
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Description
Test your knowledge on waves with this quiz! Explore the concepts of longitudinal, transverse, and orbital waves and understand the different ways in which they propagate.
