30 Questions
Which type of wave moves the medium back and forth parallel to the wave direction?
Longitudinal wave
Which type of wave moves the medium perpendicular to the wave direction?
Transverse wave
Which type of wave is the most destructive and can move through solids and liquids?
Surface wave
According to the lecture, what is a wave?
A traveling disturbance that carries energy
What is the primary force that sets ocean waves into motion?
Wind
What causes the formation of internal waves in the ocean?
Density differences between warm and cold water
Which type of wave is created when you clap your hands?
Longitudinal wave
What is the primary driving factor for most waves in the ocean?
Wind
What is the average wave period for most waves in the ocean?
10-15 seconds
Which term describes the distance between two successive crests of a water wave?
Wavelength
What is the wave base of a water wave?
One half the wavelength
What is the wave frequency of a sound wave?
The inverse of the wave period
According to the text, what is the relationship between wavelength and wave speed?
Waves with larger wavelengths travel faster
What is the formula for calculating wave speed?
Wave speed = wavelength / time
When does a wave become a shallow water wave?
When the water depth is less than one twentieth of the wavelength
Which unit of measurement is used to describe the length of the waves in the text?
Inches
What is the approximate length of the waves mentioned in the text in centimeters?
74 cm
What type of waves are formed when the wind blows lightly across the water surface?
Capillary waves
What type of waves are formed when the wind blows continuously across the water surface?
Gravity waves
Which type of waves have a wavelength greater than 1?
Gravity waves
Which type of wave is considered a shallow water wave?
Tsunamis
What causes the orbits of shallow water waves to become progressively flattened?
Friction with the ocean floor
What factor determines the speed of a transitional wave?
Water depth and wavelength
What are the characteristics of capillary waves?
Small rounded waves with V-shaped troughs
What are the first waves that form when wind blows over the ocean surface?
Capillary waves
Which type of wave interference increases wave amplitude?
Constructive interference
What is the main cause of rogue waves?
Constructive wave interference
Which factor affects wave energy?
Wave height
What are rogue waves?
Massive and unpredictable waves
Where do rogue waves tend to occur more frequently?
Near weather fronts
Study Notes
Understanding Waves and Wave Interference
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Wave height increases more rapidly than wavelength, and wind speed must be higher than wave speed to impart more energy to the wave.
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Waves are categorized into capillary waves, gravity waves, and steepened waves (white caps).
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The area where wind-driven waves are generated is called the sea area.
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Factors affecting wave energy include wind speed, duration, and distance over which the wind blows.
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Most waves on the open ocean are less than two meters in height, but exceptionally large waves can occur.
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Fully developed seas are in an equilibrium condition where energy gained from the wind is balanced by energy lost to gravity and other factors.
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Waves move away from the sea area and smooth out as they become swell.
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Swell waves are uniform, symmetrical, and transport energy over long distances.
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Wave dispersion causes longer wavelength waves to move faster and separate into groups.
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Waves can interfere with each other, resulting in constructive or destructive interference.
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Constructive interference increases wave amplitude, while destructive interference cancels out waves.
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Rogue waves are massive, spontaneous, and unpredictable waves that can reach enormous heights and cause damage to ships.Rogue Waves and their Causes
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Rogue waves are suspected to be the cause of many ship sinkings each year.
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Scientists lack detailed shipboard measurements of rogue waves because they appear without warning and ships make poor observational platforms.
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The main cause of rogue waves is theorized to be constructive wave interference, where multiple waves overlap in phase to produce an extremely large wave.
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Rogue waves tend to occur more frequently near weather fronts and downwind from islands or shoals.
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Recent modeling suggests that rogue waves can be created when the low and high frequency components of ordinary ocean waves interact and channel their energy into a narrow frequency band.
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The formation of rogue waves is still being studied and not entirely understood.
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Rogue waves can be dangerous due to their unpredictability and sudden appearance.
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Ship sinkings caused by rogue waves highlight the need for better understanding and prediction of these phenomena.
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Rogue waves pose a significant risk to maritime safety and navigation.
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The lack of shipboard measurements of rogue waves makes it difficult to accurately assess their frequency and characteristics.
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Further research and study is needed to improve our understanding of rogue waves and develop effective mitigation strategies.
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The study of waves in the surf zone will be continued in the next chapter.
Test your knowledge on waves with this quiz! Explore the concepts of longitudinal, transverse, and orbital waves and understand the different ways in which they propagate.
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