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10 Questions

list the 7 rules for colour correction

  1. do not panic 2)determine nature of problem
  2. what caused the problem
  3. develop a solution
  4. take 1 step at a time
  5. never guarantee
  6. strand test

what 4 basic questions are asked when formulating for hair colour

  1. what's the natural level and is grey present
  2. clients desired level and tone 3)are contributing pigments/ undertones exposed
  3. what needs to be mixed together to get desired result

name the 2 categories of hair colour and the sub categories of each also list 3 main characteristics for each sub category

non-oxidative temporary no patch test required large colour molecule physical change attaches to cuticle last one shampoo no re growth

semi patch test required physical change last 4-6 weeks 2nd largest molecule penetrates cuticle no re growth

oxidative demi mix with developer patch test required deposit only physical change no regrowth

permanent mixed with developer patch test required new re growth lift and deposit in 1 step application chemical change

what is the purpose of developer

to supply oxygen gas to develop colour molecules and create change in natural hair

name the 10 degrees of decolourization

  1. dark red brown
  2. red brown 3)red 4)red orange 5)orange 6)orange gold 7)gold 8)yellow gold 9)yellow 10)pale yellow

explain the full procedure for virgin hair going lighter with colour

  1. section hair into 4 section
  2. working with 1/4 to 1/2 inch sections apply colour to the mid shaft 1/2 to 1 inch from scalp up but not through the ends 3)when finished applying to mid shaft apply to roots and ends 4)process according to manufactures directions
  3. lather and rinse
  4. shampoo and condition

explain the full procedure for virgin hair going lighter with lightener

  1. section hair into 4 sections
  2. working with 1/8 inch sections apply lightener to mid shaft 1/2 inch to 1 inch from scalp up but not through the ends
  3. place cotton strip at the scalp area along the part to prevent the lightener from touching the base of the hair 4)check application every 15 minutes or so double checking for even coverage and proper lifting 5)when the mid shaft has reached 1 level darker then the desired level remove cotton strip and apply lighter to roots and ends 6)process entire head until it has reached the desired level 7)rinse shampoo and gently condition 8)towel dry slect appropriate toner and apply toner in the same manner as a semi/demi application 9)process according to desired effect
  4. rinse and condition

list 3 points one each of the 3 structures of the hair and how colour effects each

cuticle outer layer protects cortex overlapping layers transparent 20 of strength softens swells and raise the cuticle to allow penetration to cortex

cortex middle layer strength and elasticity melanin found here where chemical change takes place 80% strength colour molecules are added/natural melanin is changed

medulla innermost layer no known purpose sometimes absent occupies space round weightless cells colouring has no effect

define hair texture and how it relates to hair colouring

diameter of indivitual hair strand course large diameter takes longer to process med average response to hair colour fine weaker product shorter processing time

porosity

the ability of hair to absorb moisture low stronger product and increase processing time average no problem high weaker product less processing time

Study Notes

Colour Correction Rules

  • There are 7 rules for colour correction:
  • Identify the degree of decolourization
  • Determine the underlying pigment
  • Neutralize unwanted tones
  • Establish a colour goal
  • Choose a colour correction method
  • Consider the condition of the hair
  • Test the colour correction

Formulating for Hair Colour

  • 4 basic questions are asked when formulating for hair colour:
  • What is the natural level of the hair?
  • What is the desired level of the hair?
  • What is the tone of the hair?
  • What is the condition of the hair?

Hair Colour Categories

  • There are 2 categories of hair colour: Natural and Artificial
  • Natural: + Virgin (never coloured) + Regrowth (new growth at the roots) + Previously coloured (coloured but not recently) + Characterized by: natural pigment, no colour deposit, no colour lift
  • Artificial: + Permanent (uses developer) + Semi-permanent (no developer) + Demi-permanent (uses low volume developer) + Characterized by: colour deposit, possible colour lift

Purpose of Developer

  • Developer is used to activate the colour, allowing it to penetrate the hair shaft
  • It comes in different volumes: 10, 20, 30, 40

Degrees of Decolourization

  • There are 10 degrees of decolourization:
  • 1: Black
  • 2: Dark brown
  • 3: Medium brown
  • 4: Light brown
  • 5: Dark blonde
  • 6: Medium blonde
  • 7: Light blonde
  • 8: Very light blonde
  • 9: Lightest blonde
  • 10: White

Virgin Hair Colour Procedure

  • The procedure for virgin hair going lighter with colour:
  • Consultation and colour analysis
  • Choose a colour and developer
  • Apply the colour and developer
  • Process the colour
  • Rinse and tone (if necessary)

Virgin Hair Lightener Procedure

  • The procedure for virgin hair going lighter with lightener:
  • Consultation and colour analysis
  • Choose a lightener and developer
  • Apply the lightener and developer
  • Process the lightener
  • Rinse and tone (if necessary)

Hair Structure and Colour

  • Three structures of the hair:
  • Cuticle: - Characterized by: outermost layer, protects the hair - Colour effects: can affect the penetration of colour
  • Cortex: - Characterized by: middle layer, contains pigment - Colour effects: affects the colour deposit
  • Medulla: - Characterized by: innermost layer, not always present - Colour effects: can affect the colour lift

Hair Texture and Colouring

  • Hair texture: the thickness and density of the hair
  • Hair texture affects hair colouring:
    • Fine hair: can be prone to over-processing
    • Coarse hair: can be more resistant to colour

Porosity

  • Porosity: the ability of the hair to absorb and retain moisture
  • Porosity affects hair colouring:
    • Low porosity: can be resistant to colour
    • High porosity: can be prone to over-processing

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