Types of Stitches and Sewing Rules

Types of Stitches

• Hand stitches include running stitch, backstitch, slip stitch, whip stitch, and blanket stitch.
• Machine stitches include straight stitch, zigzag stitch, buttonhole stitch, overlock (serger) stitch, and blind hem stitch.

Rules for Stitching

• Ensure fabric is properly aligned and secured before stitching.
• Use appropriate needle and thread for the fabric type.
• Maintain even tension to avoid puckering or loose stitches.
• Test stitch on a scrap piece of fabric before starting on the actual piece.
• Follow pattern instructions carefully to avoid mistakes.

Parts of a Sewing Machine

Upper Parts

• Thread guide, tension discs, take-up lever, presser foot, needle, needle plate, and feed dogs.

Lower Parts

• Bobbin, bobbin case, bobbin winder, foot pedal, stitch length and width controls, and handwheel, power switch.

Threading a Needle on a Sewing Machine

• Place spool of thread on spool pin.
• Pull thread through thread guide.
• Pass thread through tension discs.
• Draw thread through take-up lever.
• Guide thread down to needle.
• Thread needle from front to back (or follow specific threading path of machine).

Figure Types and Styling Tips

Figure Types

• Hourglass, pear, apple, rectangle, and inverted triangle.

Styling Tips

• Hourglass: Wear fitted clothes to highlight the waist, avoid oversized clothing.
• Pear: Wear tops with embellishments, avoid bottoms that add bulk.
• Apple: Wear empire waistlines, avoid tight-fitting tops around the waist.
• Rectangle: Wear belted styles to create curves, avoid shapeless clothing.
• Inverted Triangle: Wear A-line skirts, avoid tops with heavy shoulder embellishments.

Body Measurements

• Essential measurements include bust, waist, hip, inseam, arm length, shoulder width, and neck circumference.
• Use a flexible tape measure.
• Measure on bare skin or over form-fitting clothing.
• Keep tape measure snug but not tight.
• Stand straight but relaxed.

Seam Types

• A seam is the join made when two or more pieces of fabric are stitched together.
• Choice of seam depends on the material, garment, position, and shape of the seam.

Types of Seams

• Plain seam (also known as open seam, flat seam, or dressmaker's seam): suitable for most outer garments.
• French seam: strong seam for fine materials, edges are enclosed, suitable for underclothes, nightwear, and children's clothes.
• Double-stitched seam: comfortable next to the skin, suitable for jeans, knickers, pyjamas, shirts, and overalls.
• Overlaid seam: decorative seam with stitching on the right side of the garment, suitable for yokes, panels, and undergarments.

Making a Plain Seam

• Place right sides together facing each other.
• Baste along seam line on the wrong side of the fabric about 1" down from the edge.
• Stitch along the seam line.