Podcast
Questions and Answers
What distinguishes regular Weft Sateen from irregular Weft Sateen?
What distinguishes regular Weft Sateen from irregular Weft Sateen?
Regular Weft Sateen has a definite move number throughout the repeat, while irregular Weft Sateen lacks a definite move number.
Provide an example of a standard irregular satin and a standard irregular sateen.
Provide an example of a standard irregular satin and a standard irregular sateen.
Examples include 3/1 (4 – End) Satin for standard irregular satin and 1/3 (4 – End) Sateen for standard irregular sateen.
What is the significance of the 'end' in the fabric construction notation like 5/1 (6 – End)?
What is the significance of the 'end' in the fabric construction notation like 5/1 (6 – End)?
The 'end' indicates the number of warp threads per repeat used in the fabric's construction.
What characterizes irregular warp satin fabrics?
What characterizes irregular warp satin fabrics?
In the context of the fabric, what does the term 'float' refer to?
In the context of the fabric, what does the term 'float' refer to?
What is another name for plain weave?
What is another name for plain weave?
List two characteristics of plain weave.
List two characteristics of plain weave.
Explain how the interlacing of threads occurs in a plain weave.
Explain how the interlacing of threads occurs in a plain weave.
What applications are typically made using plain weave?
What applications are typically made using plain weave?
What distinguishes twill weave from plain weave?
What distinguishes twill weave from plain weave?
What is the minimum number of weft picks a warp end must float over in a twill weave?
What is the minimum number of weft picks a warp end must float over in a twill weave?
Describe the diagonal line orientation in right-hand twill.
Describe the diagonal line orientation in right-hand twill.
How is a twill weave usually represented?
How is a twill weave usually represented?
How is the first end filled in the 4/1 (5 – End) Satin with Move No. 2?
How is the first end filled in the 4/1 (5 – End) Satin with Move No. 2?
What is the starting point for counting Move No. 2 in filling the second end of the 4/1 (5 – End) Satin?
What is the starting point for counting Move No. 2 in filling the second end of the 4/1 (5 – End) Satin?
In the 1/4 (5 – End) Sateen with Move No. 2, how is the first end characterized?
In the 1/4 (5 – End) Sateen with Move No. 2, how is the first end characterized?
How are the ends filled in the 1/4 (5 – End) Sateen with Move No. 2?
How are the ends filled in the 1/4 (5 – End) Sateen with Move No. 2?
What pattern is used to fill the third end in the 1/4 (5 – End) Sateen with Move No. 2?
What pattern is used to fill the third end in the 1/4 (5 – End) Sateen with Move No. 2?
Describe the filling process for the fourth end in the 4/1 (5 – End) Satin with Move No. 2.
Describe the filling process for the fourth end in the 4/1 (5 – End) Satin with Move No. 2.
What distinguishes the filling of the fifth end compared to the previous ends in both weave patterns?
What distinguishes the filling of the fifth end compared to the previous ends in both weave patterns?
Why is Move No. 2 significant in the context of the 4/1 Satin weave?
Why is Move No. 2 significant in the context of the 4/1 Satin weave?
What is the significance of the move number in designing a satin or sateen weave?
What is the significance of the move number in designing a satin or sateen weave?
List the four rules that must be followed when selecting move numbers for satin and sateen weaves.
List the four rules that must be followed when selecting move numbers for satin and sateen weaves.
In the example of a 4/1 Satin with a move number of 3, describe the marking process for the first warp end.
In the example of a 4/1 Satin with a move number of 3, describe the marking process for the first warp end.
How do you determine which boxes to fill when completing the second warp end?
How do you determine which boxes to fill when completing the second warp end?
What happens if the move number selected equals the repeat size of the weave?
What happens if the move number selected equals the repeat size of the weave?
Why is it important to keep the number of interlacings to a minimum in satin and sateen weaves?
Why is it important to keep the number of interlacings to a minimum in satin and sateen weaves?
Explain the pattern created by a 4/1 (5-End) Satin weave with Move No. 3 in terms of Up and Down boxes.
Explain the pattern created by a 4/1 (5-End) Satin weave with Move No. 3 in terms of Up and Down boxes.
What would be the implications of using Move No. 1 in the 4/1 Satin weave design?
What would be the implications of using Move No. 1 in the 4/1 Satin weave design?
What does the numerator and denominator represent in the fraction that defines the twill repeat?
What does the numerator and denominator represent in the fraction that defines the twill repeat?
How does the firmness of a twill weave change with the number of intersections per unit area?
How does the firmness of a twill weave change with the number of intersections per unit area?
In a balanced twill weave, what is the relationship between the numerator and the denominator of the fraction?
In a balanced twill weave, what is the relationship between the numerator and the denominator of the fraction?
What are the characteristics of an irregular cross twill weave?
What are the characteristics of an irregular cross twill weave?
What distinguishes a warp faced twill from a weft faced twill?
What distinguishes a warp faced twill from a weft faced twill?
List two factors that determine the prominence of a twill weave.
List two factors that determine the prominence of a twill weave.
How does the fineness of yarn affect the prominence of twill weaves?
How does the fineness of yarn affect the prominence of twill weaves?
What is the significance of thread densities in twill prominence?
What is the significance of thread densities in twill prominence?
Describe the filling process of the second end in the satin/sateen weave pattern.
Describe the filling process of the second end in the satin/sateen weave pattern.
What is the significance of the direction of diagonal lines in satin and sateen weaves?
What is the significance of the direction of diagonal lines in satin and sateen weaves?
What are the applications of satin weaves?
What are the applications of satin weaves?
Differentiate between regular and irregular satin/sateen weaves.
Differentiate between regular and irregular satin/sateen weaves.
Explain the characteristics of warp satin.
Explain the characteristics of warp satin.
What constitutes regular warp satin?
What constitutes regular warp satin?
How does one identify irregular warp satin?
How does one identify irregular warp satin?
What moves are used for producing S-Satin and Z-Satin in 4/1 satin?
What moves are used for producing S-Satin and Z-Satin in 4/1 satin?
Flashcards
Plain Weave
Plain Weave
Simplest weave, warp and weft threads interlace alternately.
Plain Weave Characteristics
Plain Weave Characteristics
Maximum binding points; no stretch, doesn't fray much ; creases easily, less absorbent than other weaves, strong and hard-wearing, versatile.
Twill Weave
Twill Weave
Weave with diagonal lines; warp threads float over multiple weft threads.
Twill Weave Characteristics
Twill Weave Characteristics
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Right-hand Twill
Right-hand Twill
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Left-hand Twill
Left-hand Twill
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Weave Firmness
Weave Firmness
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Weave Applications
Weave Applications
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Twill Weave Firmness
Twill Weave Firmness
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Balanced Twill Fraction
Balanced Twill Fraction
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Irregular Cross Twill Fraction
Irregular Cross Twill Fraction
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Twill Repeat
Twill Repeat
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Warp Faced Twill
Warp Faced Twill
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Weft Faced Twill
Weft Faced Twill
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Twill Float
Twill Float
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Yarn Twist and Twill Prominence
Yarn Twist and Twill Prominence
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Interlacing Pattern
Interlacing Pattern
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Starting Point
Starting Point
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Move Number
Move Number
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Weave Repeat
Weave Repeat
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Satin/Sateen Weave Rules
Satin/Sateen Weave Rules
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4/1 Satin
4/1 Satin
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Filling Ends in a Weave
Filling Ends in a Weave
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Move Number Counting
Move Number Counting
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Warp End
Warp End
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Up (Coloured Box)
Up (Coloured Box)
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Down (Blank Box)
Down (Blank Box)
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Repeat
Repeat
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Sateen Weave
Sateen Weave
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1/4 (5-End) Sateen
1/4 (5-End) Sateen
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Satin/Sateen Repeat
Satin/Sateen Repeat
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Satin/Sateen Move Number
Satin/Sateen Move Number
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Satin/Sateen End
Satin/Sateen End
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Satin/Sateen 'Up' Box
Satin/Sateen 'Up' Box
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Satin/Sateen 'Down' Box
Satin/Sateen 'Down' Box
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S-Satin
S-Satin
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Z-Satin
Z-Satin
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Warp Satin
Warp Satin
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Irregular Warp Satin
Irregular Warp Satin
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Irregular Weft Sateen
Irregular Weft Sateen
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Standard Irregular Satin & Sateen
Standard Irregular Satin & Sateen
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Plain Stitched Hopsacks
Plain Stitched Hopsacks
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Fabric Effects of Plain Stitched Hopsacks
Fabric Effects of Plain Stitched Hopsacks
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Study Notes
Plain Weaves
- Plain weave is also known as calico or tabby weave.
- It is the simplest weave with a repeat size of 2.
- This weave has a maximum number of binding points.
- It has no right or wrong side and doesn't have lengthwise or crosswise stretch.
- Plain weave doesn't fray easily.
- It creases easily.
- Plain weave absorbs less than other weaves.
- It is versatile.
- Plain weave is the tightest weave structure.
- It is strong and hard-wearing.
- It is also durable.
- The threads alternate between passing over and under the other set of threads.
Twill Weaves
- A twill weave is a basic weave design.
- The main feature of a twill weave is the presence of pronounced diagonal lines.
- In regular twill, the diagonal line usually runs from left to right, forming a distinct pattern.
- The angle of diagonal lines is at 45 Degrees.
- Twill weaves show variation in angle, from a low to a very steep slope.
- A twill warp end must float over a minimum of two weft picks and under one weft pick. Otherwise, it will still appear to be a plain weave.
- Twill weaves can be expressed as fractions (e.g. 3/1).
- The numerator of the fraction represents the number of warp threads that overlap.
- The denominator represents the number of warp threads that are underneath.
- The sum of the numerator and denominator of this fraction represents the repeat of the twill.
- Examples of twill include drill cloth, khaki uniforms, denim cloth, blankets, shirting, hangings, and soft furnishings.
- Twill weaves have good textural stability due to a high number of intersections per unit area.
- There are two main types of twills: balanced twill and irregular cross twill.
Satin and Sateen Weaves
- Satin and sateen are warp and weft faced rearranged variations of twills.
- Satin, warp faced, has warp threads more prominent.
- Sateen, weft faced, has weft threads more prominent.
- Satin and Sateen have no prominent weave structures.
- Both weaves have only one binding point in each end or pick.
- . They have poor seam strength due to thread mobility.
- Satin and Sateen fabrics have high thread densities.
- These fabrics have high mass per unit area.
- They have more float lengths.
- Move numbers(Intervals of selection) are required during construction.
- Important application is in combination with other weaves to create ornamented fabrics
Plain Weave Derivatives
- Warp rib, weft rib, mock rib, simple matt, and fancy matt, dimity are derivatives of plain weave.
- Warp ribs produce horizontal strips.
- Weft ribs produce vertical strips.
- Mock ribs and Matt weaves are based on plain weave.
- Dimity weaves are a combination of plain weave and its derivatives.
Twill Weave Derivatives
- Pointed twill, herringbone twill, combined twill, broken twill, transposed twill, elongated twill, and curved twill are all derived from the basic twill weave.
Satin & Sateen Weaves Derivatives
- Extended satin & sateen, satin & sateen stripe, satin & sateen check, rearranged twills, corkscrew twills, twilled hopsack.
Honeycomb Weaves
- Honeycomb weaves have a cell-like appearance due to ridges and hollows.
- Honeycomb fabrics are highly moisture absorbent.
- Honeycomb weaves are often used for towels, bedcovers, and quilts.
- Includes Ordinary Honeycombs (Single Ridge Honeycomb, Double Ridge Honeycomb, Fancy Honeycomb) and Brighton's Honeycombs
Checkerboard Weaves
- Checkerboard weaves combine two different weaves to produce a patterned effect.
- Common methods to create the checkerboard pattern include using basic weaves and derivatives, combining warp and weft-faced weaves, using twill weaves in opposite directions, or by combining different weaves.
Crepe Fabrics
- Crepe fabrics are generally characterized by their roughness and irregularity.
- They can be produced by using crepe yarns, applying special finishes, or using special woven structures.
- Crepe fabrics are used for medical bandages and other specialized applications.
Huckaback Weaves
- Huckaback weaves are coarse absorbent fabrics often used for towels and glass cloth.
- Their structure combines plain weave and loose floats for good moisture absorption.
- Classifications include Ordinary, Reversible, and Grecian Huckaback.
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