8 Questions
What is the main force that allows a person to surf?
Buoyant force
What is the main factor that determines the speed and direction of a wave?
Wind
What limits the speed and direction of a wave?
Seafloor
Where is the wave energy concentrated?
On the surface
What is a barrel?
A moving tube of water
Where can massive waves be created?
Offshore canyons or rock formations
What is the relationship between the waves in California and New Zealand?
The waves in California originate from New Zealand
What is the most important factor for a person to be able to surf?
Being able to match the speed of the wave
Study Notes
- When you surf, you use the buoyant force of the water to stay afloat and then paddle to match the speed of the wave.
- The wave's speed and direction are determined by the wind.
- The wave's speed and direction is limited by the seafloor.
- Wave energy is concentrated near the surface in a limited region.
- The barrel is a moving tube of water created by the curl of a wave.
- Offshore canyons or rock formations can create massive waves, and waves surfed in sunny California may have originated in the stormy seas near New Zealand.
1) What is the basic principle of surfing? Surfing is based on the principle of buoyancy. When a surfboard is submerged in water, the buoyant force of the water keeps the board afloat. Surfers use their paddles to match the wave's speed and direction. The wave's speed and direction is determined by the wind. Wave energy is concentrated near the surface in a limited region. The barrel is a moving tube of water created by the curl of a wave.
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