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B1.3. The physics of surfing

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Questions and Answers

What is the main force that allows a person to surf?

Wind

Gravity

Buoyant force (correct)

Pressure

What is the main factor that determines the speed and direction of a wave?

Wind (correct)

Pressure

Gravity

Buoyant force

What limits the speed and direction of a wave?

Pressure

Wind

Gravity

Seafloor (correct)

Where is the wave energy concentrated?

On the surface Signup and view all the answers

What is a barrel?

A moving tube of water Signup and view all the answers

Where can massive waves be created?

Offshore canyons or rock formations Signup and view all the answers

What is the relationship between the waves in California and New Zealand?

The waves in California originate from New Zealand Signup and view all the answers

What is the most important factor for a person to be able to surf?

Being able to match the speed of the wave Signup and view all the answers

Study Notes

When you surf, you use the buoyant force of the water to stay afloat and then paddle to match the speed of the wave.
The wave's speed and direction are determined by the wind.
The wave's speed and direction is limited by the seafloor.
Wave energy is concentrated near the surface in a limited region.
The barrel is a moving tube of water created by the curl of a wave.
Offshore canyons or rock formations can create massive waves, and waves surfed in sunny California may have originated in the stormy seas near New Zealand.

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Description

What is the basic principle of surfing? Surfing is based on the principle of buoyancy. When a surfboard is submerged in water, the buoyant force of the water keeps the board afloat. Surfers use their paddles to match the wave's speed and direction. The wave's speed and direction is determined by the wind. Wave energy is concentrated near the surface in a limited region. The barrel is a moving tube of water created by the curl of a wave.