Portrait Photography: Lighting Techniques

• Basic lighting patterns using one light

Light Functions

• The key light directs subject shape
• The key light is usually the brightest and most prominent light

Classical Portraiture

• Several things make a flattering potrait including lighting ratio, lighting patterns, facial view, and angle of view.

Split Lighting

• This splits the face into equal halves, one side lit and the other in shadow
• Used to create dramatic images, such as a portrait of a musician or artist
• Regarded as masculine, and more applicable to men

How to achieve Split Lighting

• Place the light source 90 degrees to the left or right of the subject; the light could be slightly behind them
• Where to place the light depends on the person's face; adjustments can be made by assessing the lighting
• The eye on the shadow side of the face picks up light in the eye only
• If rotating the face brings more light to the cheek, their face may not be right for split lighting
• The Key light should be approximately at or just above eye level

Loop Lighting

• Achieved by creating a small shadow of the subject's nose on their cheek
• Place the light source must be slightly higher than eye level and about 30-45 degrees from the camera
• The shadows of the nose and cheek cannot touch
• Keep the shadow small and slightly downward-pointing
• Be aware of having light source too high (creates odd shadows/loss of catchlights)
• Regarded as common/popular, easy to create and flatters most
• Putting a reflector low and angled up lights up the bottom of the subject's nose, creating an unflattering pattern
• Loop lighting needs to be placed somewhere around 30-45 degrees from the camera
• Needs to be slightly above eyesight so the shadow or loop of their nose angles down towards the corner of the mouth
• The key light should be approximately two feet above eye level

Rembrandt Lighting

• Named based on the painter Rembrandt, who used this pattern extensively
• Characterized by the triangle of light on the cheek
• Unlike loop lighting where the nose/cheek shadows do not touch, they do meet in Rembrandt lighting, which creates a trapped triangle of light
• Ensure that the eye on the shadow side of the face has light/a catch light; otherwise, the eye will be "dead"
• Creates a more dramatic, moodier, and darker image
• Face must turn slightly away from the light
• Light must be above the top of their heads so that the shadow of the nose falls down towards the cheek
• Not every face is ideal for Rembrandt lighting; high/prominent cheekbones may work
• If using window light, and the window goes down to the floor, block off the bottom portion with a gobo/card to achieve the lighting
• Key light is approximately 12-18 inches above eye level

Butterfly Lighting

• Named for the butterfly-shaped shadow it creates under the nose
• Usually, shoot underneath the main light source, which you put above and directly behind the camera
• Can be called Paramount or Hollywood lighting
• Often used for glamour shots and cast shadows under the cheeks/chin
• Emphasizing wrinkles less than side lighting, it is flattering for older subjects
• Having the light source directly behind the camera and slightly above eye/head level can help with this effect
• Supplemented by placing a reflector directly under their chin (the subject may even be holding it)
• Flatters people with defined/prominent cheekbones and slim faces
• Someone with a round, wide face would look better with the loop/split lighting
• Harder to create with window light/a reflector alone instead of sun/flash, as a harder source can produce a defined shadow under the nose
• Recommended key light heights are relative to distance from the subject (for example, the farther away, the higher it needs to be); typically approximately 3 feet above eye level

Broad Lighting

• Less a pattern and more a style of lighting
• Any lighting pattern can be broad or short (loop, et al)
• Subject's face turns away from the center, and the face side (broader) is in the light
• Produces a larger light side and a shadow side(smaller)
• Sometimes used for high key images, it broadens the face and is used to widen a slim visage
• Most people want to look slimmer, not wider (may not be suited for round faces)
• Side of the face towards the camera has the most light on it and shadows fall on the side furthest from the camera
• Broad lighting illuminates the largest part of the face

Short Lighting

• The opposite of broad lighting
• Puts more of the face in shadow (side turned towards the camera)
• Used for low key/darker portraits
• More sculpting, adds 3D qualities, slimming, and flattering
• The face or side turned toward the camera has more shadow
• The face is turned toward the light
• Part of the face turned away from the camera has the most light, and shadows are near the side of the face, closet to the camera
• Short lighting puts shadows on the largest part of the face shown
• To retain the same pattern of highlights as the face and key light the nose to key light angle stay constant at about 45 degrees
• Key Light and Fill Light are used

Applying Lighting

• Learn to recognize/create different lighting patterns, and how to apply them
• Learning the subject's face identifies the best lighting and intended portrait/mood
• A slimmer effect for someone round-faced may require different lighting than a band’s promo shot
• Once you know patterns/how to recognize, you can master light quality, direction, and ratio
• If you can move the light source, it’s easier to change the lighting pattern, but if the light is from the sun/window, do the following:
• Have the subject rotate to change the direction the light falls on them
• Change your camera position

Explore portrait photography lighting techniques like split, loop and butterfly lighting. Learn how to position light sources to achieve desired effects such as shadows that add depth and dimension. Understand the function of key lights in a basic setup.