Oceanography and Ocean Waves
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Questions and Answers

Oceanography is considered a multidisciplinary science primarily because it integrates knowledge from:

  • Geology and atmospheric science only.
  • Biology and geography alone.
  • Chemistry, biology, physics, and other sciences. (correct)
  • Physics and mathematics exclusively.
  • Approximately what percentage of Earth's living organisms are found in the oceans?

  • 60%
  • 50%
  • 90%
  • 80% (correct)
  • In the context of wave mechanics, what is the fundamental nature of a wave?

  • The physical transport of water across the ocean surface.
  • A static displacement of water molecules.
  • The movement of energy through a medium. (correct)
  • A change in the chemical composition of water.
  • What is the most common source of energy that generates ocean waves?

    <p>Wind friction on the water's surface. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Identify the correct pair that describes the anatomy of a wave:

    <p>Crest and trough. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Spilling breakers are typically associated with shorelines that have:

    <p>A gradual and gentle slope. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Tsunamis are primarily caused by:

    <p>Sudden displacements of large volumes of water, like from earthquakes. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which characteristic is most indicative of wind waves?

    <p>Short wavelengths and sizes dependent on wind strength. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Ocean swells are best described as:

    <p>Mature, long-period waves originating from distant storms. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Tidal waves, despite their name, are fundamentally different from tsunamis because they are caused by:

    <p>Gravitational forces of the moon and sun. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What primarily drives thermohaline circulation in the global oceans?

    <p>Differences in temperature and salinity. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    In which atmospheric layer does weather phenomena primarily occur?

    <p>Troposphere (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    The ozone layer, crucial for absorbing harmful ultraviolet radiation, is primarily located in which atmospheric layer?

    <p>Stratosphere (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which two gases constitute approximately 99% of Earth's atmosphere?

    <p>Nitrogen and Oxygen (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    The Montreal Protocol, an international treaty, was primarily established to address the depletion of which atmospheric component?

    <p>Ozone Layer (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which method of thermal energy transfer involves electromagnetic waves and does not require a medium?

    <p>Radiation (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the fundamental cause of thermal expansion in matter?

    <p>Increase in particle velocity due to temperature rise. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    In the troposphere, ozone is considered a pollutant because it contributes to:

    <p>Smog formation and respiratory issues. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the relationship between the frequency and wavelength of a wave, assuming wave speed remains constant?

    <p>As frequency increases, wavelength decreases. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following is the most common primary cause of tsunamis?

    <p>Rapid displacement of the seafloor, often due to earthquakes. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    The 'good' ozone is located in the stratosphere because it performs which essential function?

    <p>Absorbs harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Earth's early atmosphere, formed from volcanic outgassing, was primarily composed of:

    <p>Carbon Dioxide, Nitrogen, and Water Vapor. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Surface ocean currents are primarily driven by which of the following factors?

    <p>Wind patterns across the ocean surface. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How does the Coriolis effect influence the direction of gyre rotation in the Northern Hemisphere?

    <p>It causes gyres to rotate clockwise. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Deep water currents, also known as thermohaline circulation, are primarily driven by differences in what property of ocean water?

    <p>Density. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Upwelling is beneficial to ocean ecosystems primarily because it brings which of the following to the surface?

    <p>Nutrients from deeper waters, supporting plankton growth. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What effect does a deeper thermocline generally have on the effectiveness of upwelling in bringing nutrients to the surface?

    <p>A deeper thermocline reduces upwelling effectiveness. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How does El Nino typically affect upwelling along the western coast of South America?

    <p>El Nino suppresses upwelling, reducing nutrient availability. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Gyres, large systems of rotating ocean currents, are primarily formed by which of the following?

    <p>Surface winds and the Coriolis effect. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which global wind pattern is most directly associated with driving surface currents in the equatorial regions?

    <p>Trade Winds. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Why is thermal expansion a critical consideration in the construction of bridges?

    <p>To prevent structural damage due to material expansion and contraction with temperature changes. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following best describes the mechanism by which running a frozen jar lid under hot water helps to open it?

    <p>The heat increases the kinetic energy of the lid molecules, causing the metal lid to expand more than the glass jar. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    In the context of thermal expansion, what happens to the diameter of a hole in a doughnut-shaped metal disc when the disc is heated?

    <p>The diameter of the hole increases at the same rate as the expansion of the disc itself. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Why are alcohol and mercury used in thermometers?

    <p>They expand and contract predictably and visibly with changes in temperature. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is specific heat capacity?

    <p>The amount of energy needed to raise the temperature of one gram of a substance by one degree Celsius. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following materials is best classified as a thermal insulator?

    <p>Air (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What type of heat transfer is primarily responsible for heating food in a convection oven?

    <p>Convection (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which method of heat transfer does not require a medium for transmission?

    <p>Radiation (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What are the three major types of solar radiation?

    <p>Visible, Infrared, Ultraviolet (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What unit is commonly used to measure incoming solar radiation?

    <p>Kilowatt-hours per square meter (kWh/m²) (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Flashcards

    Oceanography

    The study of the oceans, encompassing their physical, chemical, biological, and geological aspects.

    Ocean Waves

    The up-and-down movement of energy through water, typically caused by wind.

    Wave Crest

    The highest point of a wave.

    Wave Trough

    The lowest point of a wave.

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    Wave Trains

    Groups of waves that travel together toward the shore.

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    Spilling Breakers

    Waves that break onto a gently sloping shoreline, creating a smooth and rolling wave.

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    Plunging Breakers

    Waves that break onto a steep shoreline, creating a powerful and turbulent wave.

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    Tsunamis

    Giant waves caused by sudden disturbances like earthquakes or underwater volcanic eruptions.

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    Wind Waves

    The most common type of waves, caused by the friction of wind on the water's surface.

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    Ocean Swells

    Large, mature waves that travel through the ocean, often caused by storms.

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    Wave frequency

    The number of wave cycles occurring per second.

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    Wave wavelength

    The distance between two consecutive wave crests or troughs.

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    Wave amplitude

    The distance between the midline of a wave and its crest or trough.

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    Wave period

    The time it takes for one complete wave cycle to pass a fixed point.

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    Ocean currents

    Large-scale movements of water in the ocean spanning the globe.

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    Surface currents

    Ocean currents primarily driven by wind.

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    Deepwater currents

    Ocean currents primarily driven by density differences due to temperature and salinity.

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    Coriolis effect

    The deflection of moving objects, including ocean currents, due to Earth's rotation.

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    Thermohaline circulation

    The continuous movement of ocean water from the equator to the poles and back, driven by temperature and salinity differences.

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    Upwelling

    The upward movement of deep ocean water to the surface, driven by wind and the Coriolis effect.

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    Photosynthesis

    The process by which plants use sunlight, water, and carbon dioxide to produce energy, releasing oxygen as a byproduct.

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    Ozone Layer

    A layer of oxygen ions in the stratosphere that protects life from harmful ultraviolet (UV) radiation.

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    Troposphere

    The lowest layer of Earth's atmosphere, where weather occurs and life exists.

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    Stratosphere

    The layer of the atmosphere where most commercial jets fly, containing the ozone layer.

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    Mesosphere

    A layer of the atmosphere that burns up most meteors, also known as the 'cold layer'.

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    Exosphere

    The outermost layer of Earth's atmosphere, merging with outer space, where most satellites orbit.

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    Thermosphere

    The layer of Earth's atmosphere where the aurora borealis and australis occur.

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    Ozone

    A gaseous molecule with the composition O3 (three oxygen atoms) that protects life from UV radiation.

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    CFCs (Chloro-fluoro-carbons)

    Chemicals that were once used in refrigerators and aerosols but were found to destroy ozone in the stratosphere.

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    Thermal Expansion

    The change in the size or shape of a substance due to a change in temperature.

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    Expansion in Solids

    Materials like metals, concrete, and composites expand and contract with temperature changes.

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    Gas Thermal Expansion

    The process by which the volume of a gas increases when heated.

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    Specific Heat

    The amount of heat energy required to raise the temperature of a substance by 1 degree Celsius.

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    Conduction

    The transfer of heat through direct contact between substances.

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    Convection

    The transfer of heat through the movement of fluids, like liquids or gases.

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    Radiation

    The transfer of heat through electromagnetic waves, which can travel through a vacuum.

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    Conductor

    A material that conducts heat well, such as metals.

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    Insulator

    A material that resists the flow of heat, such as wood or plastic.

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    Heat Capacity

    The minimum heat absorbed by a substance before a unit change in its temperature is observed.

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    Study Notes

    Oceanography

    • Oceanography studies the oceans, which cover most of Earth.
    • Oceans are complex and dynamic environments interacting with the surrounding world.
    • About 80% of Earth's living organisms are found in oceans.
    • Oceans provide food, shelter, and transportation to terrestrial life.
    • Oceanography involves many specialized sub-fields (chemistry, biology, physics, etc.)

    Ocean Waves

    • Ocean waves are movements of energy through water, mostly caused by wind.
    • Wave energy makes water molecules move up and down, forming crests (high points) and troughs (low points).
    • Waves travel in groups called wave trains.
    • Waves break differently depending on the shoreline slope:
      • Spilling breakers on gently sloping shores.
      • Plunging breakers on steeply sloping shores.
    • Types of waves include:
      • Tsunamis (caused by earthquakes or volcanic eruptions; highly destructive)
      • Wind waves (common, caused by wind friction, size depends on wind strength)
      • Ocean swells (large, mature waves from storms)
      • Tidal waves (large waves caused by tides, predictable)

    Wave Properties

    • Waves are propagating, oscillating deformations of a medium.
    • Waves are described by wavelength, frequency, amplitude, period, crests, and troughs.
    • Frequency is the number of wave cycles per second.
    • Wavelength is the distance of one wave cycle.
    • Wave speed equals wavelength times frequency.
    • Longer wavelength means lower frequency.
    • Period is the time for one wave cycle.
    • Amplitude is the distance between wave midline and crest/trough.

    Tsunamis

    • Tsunamis are ocean waves from rapid seafloor displacement (earthquakes, landslides, volcanic explosions).
    • They travel at high velocity, are wide, but only a few feet high out at sea.
    • Tsunami height increases as they approach shore, causing powerful surges.
    • Warning networks exist for the Pacific and Indian Oceans.

    Ocean Currents

    • Ocean currents are large-scale water movements globally.
    • Two main types: surface and deep currents.
    • Surface currents are primarily wind-driven, influenced by Earth's rotation (Coriolis effect).
      • Coriolis effect causes clockwise rotation in the Northern Hemisphere and counter-clockwise in the Southern.
    • Deep currents are caused by density differences (temperature and salinity).
    • Thermohaline circulation (global conveyor belt) involves temperature and salinity differences driving global water movement.
      • Transports nutrients and energy.

    Upwelling

    • Upwelling is the movement of deep ocean water to the surface.
    • Wind drives water away from the shoreline, pulling deeper water upward.
    • Coriolis effect further directs water movement (clockwise in N, counter-clockwise in S).
    • Upwelling brings nutrients to the surface, aiding plankton growth.
    • Upwelling zones are vital for ocean biodiversity and fisheries.
    • Upwelling can relocate organisms from nesting grounds, affecting their survival, although resulting in rich fishing grounds.

    Gyres

    • Gyres are circular ocean currents created by surface currents and wind.
    • The North Pacific Subtropical Gyre is the world's largest gyre, affecting weather patterns and having a garbage patch.
    • Other current types: surface and deep (density-driven).
    • Global weather patterns (Hadley Cells) include trade winds, westerlies, and easterlies.
    • Upwelling happens near coastlines drawing nutrient-rich water.
    • El Niño Southern Oscillation is a climate pattern with warmer water in the Pacific.
    • Thermohaline circulation (global conveyor belt) cycles water globally.
    • Ocean circulation regulates climate by distributing warm and cool water.

    Earth's Atmosphere

    • The atmosphere is a thin layer of gases surrounding Earth.
    • Five layers: troposphere (weather), stratosphere (ozone), mesosphere (meteor burning), thermosphere (ISS), exosphere (atmosphere-space merge).
    • Main gases: nitrogen (78%), oxygen (21%), and others (1%).
    • Ozone in the stratosphere protects from UV radiation.
    • Greenhouse gases (methane, carbon dioxide) trap heat, regulating Earth's temperature.

    Ozone

    • Ozone is a gas (O3) vital to protecting Earth from harmful UV rays.
    • Ozone is present in the stratosphere (good) but also in the troposphere (bad, smog).
    • CFCs (chlorofluorocarbons) damage the ozone layer.
    • Montreal Protocol reduced CFC use and ozone layer is recovering.
    • Ozone layer protects against sunburn, skin cancer, cataracts, and damages plant growth.

    Thermal Energy and Expansion

    • Thermal energy is energy from particle movement.
    • Higher temperatures mean faster particle movement.
    • Heat transfer methods: conduction (direct contact), convection (fluid movement), radiation (electromagnetic waves).
    • Thermal expansion is a change in size or shape due to temperature.
    • Solids, liquids, and gases all expand differently in response to changing temperatures based on mass, particle bonds, etc.
    • The temperature change affects different types of matters in different ways.

    Heat Capacity and Specific Heat

    • Heat capacity is the heat absorbed to change temperature.
    • Specific heat relates to heat capacity per gram of substance.
    • Molar heat relates to heat capacity per mole.
    • Water has a high specific heat, regulating Earth's temperature.
    • Metals are good heat conductors.

    Heat Transfer

    • Heat is the transfer of kinetic energy and is measured by temperature.
    • Heat always moves from warmer to cooler regions.
    • Methods of heat transfer: conduction (contact), convection (fluid movement), radiation (electromagnetic waves).
    • Conductors transfer heat quickly while insulators slow down heat transfer.

    Solar Radiation

    • Solar radiation is electromagnetic energy from the sun.
    • Types: visible light, infrared, ultraviolet.
    • Incoming solar radiation (measured in W/m²).
    • Visible light ranges from red to violet (lowest to highest frequency).
    • Infrared light has lower frequency than visible light.
    • Ultraviolet light has higher frequency than visible light.

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