W3-2 Ocean

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Questions and Answers

Given the uneven distribution of land between the northern and southern hemispheres, which of the following statements most accurately describes its effect on global climate patterns?

  • It results in uniform temperature distribution across all latitudes due to ocean current moderation.
  • It equally distributes precipitation patterns globally, negating regional climatic differences.
  • It causes more pronounced seasonal temperature variations in the hemisphere with more landmass. (correct)
  • It reduces the overall global average temperature due to increased land albedo.

Considering that approximately 70.8% of Earth's surface is covered by seawater, what far-reaching implication does this have for the planet's thermal regulation?

  • It facilitates rapid and extreme temperature fluctuations across various terrestrial regions.
  • It provides a substantial buffer against drastic temperature changes due to water's high heat capacity. (correct)
  • It exacerbates the greenhouse effect, leading to unchecked global warming.
  • It diminishes the Earth's overall capacity to absorb solar radiation due to water's high albedo.

If Earth's oceans precipitated their dissolved salts, forming a layer approximately 56 meters thick, what would be the most significant short-term consequence for terrestrial ecosystems?

  • A catastrophic disruption of the water cycle, leading to widespread desertification. (correct)
  • A uniform distribution of salt across all landmasses, benefiting salt-dependent species.
  • A rapid increase in global biodiversity due to newly formed mineral deposits.
  • A widespread decrease in soil salinity, enhancing agricultural productivity.

Given the interconnectedness of the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans, alongside the Southern Ocean, how would a significant alteration in the temperature of one ocean basin most likely impact global ocean currents?

<p>It would lead to a global redistribution of thermal energy, affecting climate patterns worldwide. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering that the ocean may be 4.4 billion years old based on oxygen isotopes in zircons, which of the following statements best reflects the long-term impact of this ancient presence on Earth's geological processes?

<p>It implies that the chemical weathering of rocks and mineral formation have been fundamentally shaped by seawater interactions. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

If future satellite measurements indicated a consistent increase in the average depth of the sea while the average height of land above sea level remained constant, what could be inferred about changes in the Earth's geological activity?

<p>Glacial melting and thermal expansion due to climate change are causing sea levels to rise. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the role of carbonaceous chondrites and icy comets in delivering water to early Earth, what crucial distinction can be made regarding their contributions to the chemical composition of the primordial oceans?

<p>Carbonaceous chondrites introduced complex organic compounds along with water, whereas icy comets provided mainly frozen water. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Given that salinity affects seawater density and influences deep ocean circulation, how would a localized, significant freshening event (decrease in salinity) in the North Atlantic most likely impact global climate patterns?

<p>It would disrupt the thermohaline circulation by reducing the density of surface waters, potentially leading to cooler temperatures in Europe. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

If a new, highly invasive species of plankton capable of absorbing significantly more solar radiation than typical phytoplankton were introduced into the photic zone, what far-reaching effect would this most likely have on marine ecosystems?

<p>It would lead to thermal stratification of the water column, disrupting nutrient mixing and reducing biodiversity. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Assuming echo sounders provide detailed seafloor topography, how might this data be integrated with satellite measurements of sea surface height to enhance our understanding of deep ocean currents?

<p>By accounting for seafloor bathymetry, sea surface height anomalies can be more accurately related to pressure gradients that drive deep ocean flow. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the vertical stratification of the ocean, what complex relationship exists between the thermocline, halocline, and pycnocline in terms of ocean circulation and nutrient distribution?

<p>They reinforce each other by creating strong density gradients that impede vertical mixing, thereby limiting nutrient supply to surface waters. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Given that 'free swimmers' are restricted only by their own locomotion, what is the most significant constraint these organisms face compared to planktonic organisms in adapting to changing ocean conditions like acidification or warming?

<p>Free swimmers must expend considerable energy to migrate to more favorable conditions, potentially impacting other life processes. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

If the amount of Aeolian dust deposition into the ocean drastically decreased due to widespread desertification prevention efforts, what complex effect would this most likely have on marine primary productivity and carbon cycling?

<p>It would limit primary productivity in certain regions due to reduced iron fertilization, potentially decreasing carbon sequestration. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the concept of 'per mil' (‰) as a unit of salinity, what nuanced implication does a small but consistent increase in average ocean salinity (e.g., from 35‰ to 35.5‰) have for the solubility of gases like oxygen and carbon dioxide in seawater?

<p>It would decrease the solubility of both oxygen and carbon dioxide, potentially leading to oxygen depletion and reduced carbon sequestration. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Given that the Mariana Trench is the deepest part of the ocean at 10,924 m, and considering the extreme pressure and absence of light at such depths, which adaptations are crucial for organisms to thrive in this zone?

<p>Specialized enzymes to withstand high pressure and chemosynthesis as a primary energy source. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How would a significant reduction in the strength of the North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW) formation most likely affect the global thermohaline circulation?

<p>It would weaken the global thermohaline circulation, potentially leading to altered heat distribution and climate patterns. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

If a large-scale, prolonged El Niño event were to occur, causing widespread warming of the Pacific Ocean, how might this affect the intensity and location of coastal upwelling along the western coasts of continents, such as South America?

<p>Upwelling would likely decrease in intensity or even cease due to weakened trade winds and altered ocean stratification. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the Ekman transport phenomenon and its influence on coastal upwelling, how would persistent alongshore winds blowing parallel to a coastline in the Southern Hemisphere affect the vertical movement of ocean water?

<p>Winds blowing with the coast on their left would induce upwelling due to offshore Ekman transport. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Given the role of ocean currents in heat distribution, how would a significant slowing of the Gulf Stream most likely impact the climate of Western Europe?

<p>Western Europe would experience colder temperatures due to decreased heat transport from the tropics. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How would a substantial increase in glacial meltwater entering the North Atlantic likely affect the formation of North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW)?

<p>It would decrease NADW formation by reducing the salinity and density of the surface water. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

In the context of oceanic sediments, which scenario would most likely result in a greater accumulation of siliceous ooze compared to calcareous ooze on the seafloor?

<p>A deep-sea environment below the carbonate compensation depth (CCD) with high silica availability. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Given the influence of major surface ocean current systems on global climate, how would the disruption of gyre circulation patterns in both the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans most likely affect regional and global climate?

<p>It would induce regional climate shifts, potentially causing some areas to become cooler and others warmer, while also affecting precipitation patterns. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the role of single-celled planktonic organisms in the formation of oceanic sediments, how would a significant decrease in ocean pH (ocean acidification) most likely affect the accumulation of calcareous ooze on the seafloor?

<p>It would decrease the accumulation of calcareous ooze due to increased dissolution of carbonate shells. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

If a catastrophic event led to a near-complete shutdown of thermohaline circulation, what long-term consequence would most likely arise concerning global carbon cycling and atmospheric carbon dioxide levels?

<p>A significant decrease in marine primary productivity due to nutrient stratification, resulting in reduced carbon uptake and potentially higher atmospheric CO2 levels. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Given that surface ocean currents are driven by wind friction, how would a scenario involving a persistent weakening of the trade winds across the equatorial Pacific Ocean most likely affect the strength and characteristics of the equatorial currents?

<p>The equatorial currents would likely weaken and broaden, potentially leading to a decrease in upwelling along the equator. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the interplay between lithic sediment and biogenic oozes, what conditions would favor the accumulation of lithic sediment over calcareous and siliceous oozes on a continental slope?

<p>Proximity to a river mouth with substantial sediment discharge and strong bottom currents. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

If large-scale geoengineering efforts were implemented to increase ocean albedo (reflectivity), how would this most likely impact surface ocean currents and global heat distribution?

<p>Surface ocean currents would likely slow down due to reduced solar energy absorption and altered wind patterns. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How would a significant intensification of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC) impact the vertical distribution of nutrients in the Southern Ocean and, consequently, marine primary productivity?

<p>It would result in enhanced vertical mixing, increasing nutrient availability in surface waters and boosting primary productivity. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the influence of the Coriolis effect on ocean currents, how would a hypothetical scenario involving a significant decrease in Earth's rotation rate affect the direction and intensity of major ocean gyres?

<p>Ocean gyres would weaken and become less defined due to a reduced Coriolis force. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Given the complexities of ocean circulation and sediment formation, what would be the long-term effect on seafloor sediment composition if a major asteroid impact caused a global extinction event that selectively eliminated calcareous plankton, but not siliceous plankton?

<p>A drastic decrease in overall sediment accumulation due to reduced biological activity, with a relative increase in siliceous ooze. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Given the relationship between wave energy and wind conditions, how would a sudden, significant decrease in both wind speed and duration over a large oceanic area most likely affect the characteristics of waves generated within that area?

<p>Decrease in both wave height and wavelength due to reduced energy transfer from wind. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the concept of wave base, how would an increase in sea level, affecting the depth of the water column, most likely influence the propagation of long-wavelength waves across a continental shelf?

<p>Wave base interaction with the seafloor would decrease, allowing waves to travel farther before breaking. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Given the process of wave refraction, how would a submerged, lens-shaped geological formation (shallower in the center, deeper at the edges) most likely affect approaching waves, assuming the waves initially encounter the formation at an angle?

<p>Focusing wave energy towards the center, increasing wave height behind it. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

If a coastal region experiences a significant increase in storm frequency, leading to enhanced wave action, what complex feedback loop might emerge regarding sediment transport and coastal morphology?

<p>Enhanced erosion and landward sediment transport, potentially altering coastal landforms and increasing vulnerability to subsequent storms. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the dynamics of tsunami generation, how would a submarine landslide with a significant vertical displacement in deep ocean waters most likely differ in wave characteristics from a tsunami generated by a strike-slip fault earthquake?

<p>The landslide-generated tsunami would exhibit a higher initial amplitude but shorter wavelength compared to the earthquake-generated tsunami. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Given that tsunamis can travel at speeds up to 950 km/h, how would the arrival time of a tsunami at a distant coastal community be affected if the tsunami's path crossed a region with an extensive, deep-sea trench system?

<p>The tsunami would slow down and arrive later than predicted due to energy dissipation and refraction within the trench. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the influence of the Moon and Sun on Earth's tides, how would the tidal range be affected if the Moon's orbit were significantly more elliptical, causing substantial variations in its distance from Earth?

<p>The tidal range would show greater extremes, with higher high tides and lower low tides during the Moon's closest approach (perigee) and reduced tidal ranges during its farthest point (apogee). (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Given the alignment of the Sun, Earth, and Moon during spring tides, how would the magnitude of these tides be further influenced if they coincided with a period when the Earth is closest to the Sun (perihelion)?

<p>The spring tides would be moderately enhanced due to the combined gravitational pull of the closer Sun and aligned Moon. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

If a hypothetical scenario involved a significant increase in Earth's rotation speed, how would this most likely affect the timing and magnitude of tidal bulges, considering the interplay between gravitational forces and inertial effects?

<p>The tidal bulges would shift in their orientation relative to the Moon, and the tidal periods would shorten, leading to more frequent but less extreme tides. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the mechanics of wave formation, how would a localized increase in atmospheric pressure, such as that caused by a sudden downdraft from a thunderstorm, most likely affect existing waves on the ocean surface?

<p>Leading to wave flattening and temporary suppression as the pressure counteracts wave formation. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How would a prolonged period of unusually high solar activity, leading to increased levels of extreme ultraviolet (EUV) radiation reaching the upper atmosphere, most likely indirectly affect ocean wave dynamics?

<p>Altering global wind patterns, which subsequently affects wave generation and propagation. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How would a significant deepening of the average thermocline depth in a specific oceanic region most likely influence the propagation characteristics of internal waves within that region?

<p>Internal waves would propagate faster and with greater amplitude due to the expanded vertical space. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Given the relationship between fetch and wave development, how would a significant reduction in Arctic sea ice extent, creating a larger area of open water, most likely affect wave climates in the Arctic Ocean?

<p>Promoting the development of larger and more energetic waves due to the increased fetch, leading to greater coastal erosion. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Assuming a catastrophic event leads to the rapid acidification of a coastal marine environment, how would this most likely impact the structural integrity and wave-buffering capacity of existing coral reef ecosystems?

<p>Accelerated coral dissolution, weakening reef structures and reducing their ability to protect coastlines from wave action. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

If large-scale offshore wind farms are constructed in a region with strong prevailing winds and significant wave activity, how might these structures collectively influence nearshore wave dynamics and sediment transport patterns?

<p>Altering wave refraction and diffraction patterns, potentially leading to localized changes in erosion and deposition along the coastline. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which scenario most accurately describes the dynamic equilibrium of a shoreline?

<p>A shoreline experiences balanced erosion and deposition, maintaining an approximate geometric form over time. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How do marine deltas form, and what primarily controls their overall size and shape?

<p>Marine deltas are constructed when sediment carried by streams is not entirely eroded by surf and currents; the size and shape are dictated by the equilibrium between sedimentation and erosion. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the characteristics of estuaries, what is the most ecologically significant feature of these environments?

<p>Estuaries, with associated coastal wetlands, provide crucial habitats supporting diverse plant and animal communities. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which distinction between the different types of reefs is most critical in understanding their formation and location?

<p>The essential distinction is the relationship to land; fringing reefs border land, barrier reefs are separated by a lagoon, and atolls encircle a subsiding volcanic island. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the most far-reaching implication of coastlines existing in a state of dynamic equilibrium?

<p>Any local system imbalance leads to observable changes in the shoreline, necessitating adaptive coastal management strategies. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What critical problem arises from implementing hard stabilization methods along coastlines?

<p>These strategies may interrupt natural sediment transport, potentially escalating erosion in nearby unprotected areas. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How does the concept of 'retreat' apply to managing coastal erosion, and what are its primary limitations?

<p>'Retreat' advocates limiting human interference, yet may not always be feasible or socially acceptable due to existing infrastructure and communities. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the topic of changing sea levels, what is the key distinction between rapid and slow changes, and what primary mechanisms drive these differences?

<p>Rapid changes result from tectonic or isostatic crustal movements, whereas slow changes are linked to global warming and eustatic processes. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which statement most accurately reflects the processes of submergence and emergence and their relationship to past glacial activity?

<p>Submergence signifies the rise of water level relative to the land, and nearly all coasts experienced this after the last ice age, while emergence is the opposite. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the cryosphere's influence on global sea level, what is the most accurate understanding of the potential impact of melting ice sheets?

<p>Sea level would be 65 to 80 m higher if all water currently locked in the cryosphere as ice sheets were to melt, with the West Antarctic ice sheet alone potentially contributing 8 m. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the described coastal deposits is best defined as elongate ridges of sand or gravel that project from land and end in open water?

<p>Spit (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What combination of factors is most likely to lead to the formation of a marine delta known for its extensive fertility?

<p>Minimal erosion from surf and currents allowing sediment carried by a stream to accumulate, creating a sediment-rich environment (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the relationship between reefs and warm-water coastlines, what distinguishes an atoll from a barrier reef?

<p>An atoll forms as a circular reef enclosing a lagoon, typically around a subsiding volcanic island, while a barrier reef is separated from land by a lagoon. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Given the human interventions designed to manage coastal erosion, what is the central trade-off associated with 'hard stabilization' approaches such as jetties and seawalls?

<p>Hard stabilization provides immediate protection to specific areas, but often accelerates erosion in adjacent unprotected areas due to disrupted sediment transport (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Considering the connection between sea ice, land ice, and overall sea level, how does the potential melting of the West Antarctic ice sheet specifically influence global sea level projections?

<p>The melting of the West Antarctic ice sheet could potentially lead to an approximate 8-meter rise in global sea level. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Flashcards

Seawater Coverage

Seawater covers approximately 70.8% of Earth's surface.

Land Distribution

The land is unevenly distributed between the northern and southern hemispheres.

Major Ocean Basins

The main oceans interconnected basins are the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans, along with the Southern Ocean which make up the world ocean.

Echo Sounders

Echo sounders measure water depth by sending a sound pulse and measuring the time it takes for the echo to return from the seafloor.

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Age of Liquid Water

Ocean water has been present on Earth for more than 4 billion years.

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Origin of Water

Some water may have originated from carbonaceous chondrites and icy comets that bombarded early Earth.

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Average Salinity

The average salinity of seawater is 33 to 37 per mil.

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Factors Affecting Salinity

Ocean salinity is affected by evaporation, precipitation, inflow of freshwater, and freezing of sea ice.

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Ocean's Climatic Influence

Ocean temperatures affect the climate over ocean and land, which in turn controls distribution of plants and animals.

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Heat Capacity of Ocean

The ocean has a high heat capacity, leading to a low total and seasonal temperature range compared to land.

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Seawater Density

Seawater density increases as temperature decreases and salinity increases, causing ocean water to be vertically stratified.

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Ocean Depth Zones

The major depth zones are Surface zone, Thermocline/halocline/pycnocline, and Deep zone; the deep zone contains 80% of ocean water.

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Pelagic Zone

Plants and animals living in the uppermost water occupy the pelagic zone where floating organisms include plankton.

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Benthonic Zone

Benthonic organisms live on or within the bottom sediment.

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Free Swimmers

Free swimmers in the biotic zones of a body of water are restricted only by their own locomotion.

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Oceanic Sediment Composition

Oceanic sediment primarily consists of the skeletal remains of single-celled planktonic and benthonic organisms. If bottom sediment is comprised of >30% of these remains, it's classified as ooze.

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Calcareous Ooze

Carbonate-based ooze formed from the skeletal remains of marine organisms.

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Siliceous Ooze

Silica-based ooze formed from the skeletal remains of marine organisms.

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Lithic Sediment

Sediment consisting of rock fragments mantling continental shelves and slopes.

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Surface Ocean Currents

Broad, slow drifts of surface water caused by friction between the ocean and air flowing over it, typically found in the upper 50-100m of the ocean.

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Coriolis Force Effect on ocean currents

The phenomenon where the Earth's rotation influences the direction of ocean currents.

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Ekman Transport

Net movement of surface water, balancing wind forces and Coriolis effect.

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Upwelling

Upward movement of ocean water near coasts due to Ekman transport away from land.

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Downwelling

Downward movement of ocean water near coasts due to Ekman transport toward the land.

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Ocean Gyres

Large subcircular current systems in the major ocean basins.

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North and South Equatorial Currents

Westward-flowing currents located on either side of the equator.

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Equatorial Countercurrent

Eastward-flowing current along the equator.

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Antarctic Circumpolar Current

Current that circles the globe near 60° latitude.

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North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW)

Dense water that originates in the North Atlantic, flows downward, and spreads southward.

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Antarctic Bottom Water (AABW)

Colder, denser water that flows beneath the NADW.

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Ocean Wave Energy Source

Surface waves gain energy from the wind.

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Wave Size Factors

Wave size is determined by wind speed, duration, and the distance over which the wind blows (fetch).

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Wave Height

The vertical distance between the crest and trough of a wave.

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Wavelength

The horizontal distance between two successive crests (or troughs) of a wave.

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Wave Base

At this depth, water motion from a surface wave becomes negligible.

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Wave Breaking

As a wave approaches the shore, its circular motion is restricted, causing it to break.

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Wave Refraction

Waves bend as they approach the shore, aligning with bottom contours.

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Tsunami

A sea wave caused by seismic activity, like earthquakes.

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Tsunami Characteristics

Tsunamis travel at high speeds but have low wave height in the open ocean.

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Wave Periodicity

The time between successive waves or crests/troughs of a wave.

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Drawdown

Dropping of the sea level along the shore before a tsunami arrives.

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Ocean Tides

Rhythmic rise and fall of ocean water, occurring twice daily.

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Tidal Cause

Tides are caused by the gravitational attraction between the Earth, Moon, and Sun.

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Tidal Bulges

Bulges generated by gravitational forces.

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Tidal Range

Highest and lowest tides when the sun and moon are aligned.

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Land and Ocean Meeting Points

Dynamic zones where erosion, sediment creation, transport, and deposition occur.

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Beach

Wave-crashed sediment along a coast, includes the surf zone.

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Spit

Elongated ridges of sand or gravel projecting from land into open water.

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Barrier Island

Long, narrow sandy islands lying parallel to a coast.

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Marine Deltas

Fertile regions where new stream sediment isn't fully eroded by surf/currents.

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Estuary

A semi enclosed marine area diluted with fresh water, including key coastal wetlands.

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Reefs

Warm-water coastlines' limestone reefs are built by corals/carbonate secreting organisms.

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Fringing Reef

A Reef attached to or closely borders land.

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Barrier Reef

Reef separated from land by a lagoon.

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Atoll

Roughly circular reef enclosing a lagoon that forms when a volcanic island subsides.

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Hard Stabilization

Structural coastal erosion responses like jetties, breakwaters, and seawalls.

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Soft Stabilization

Nonstructural coastal erosion approach like vegetation and beach replenishment.

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Submergence

Water level rise relative to land, often after ice age.

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Emergence

Lowering of water level relative to land.

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Eustatic Changes

Sea level changes due to continental glaciers.

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Study Notes

  • Seawater covers 70.8% of Earth's surface
  • Land covers the remaining 29.2%
  • Land is unevenly distributed between the northern and southern hemispheres
  • Most water is in three interconnected basins: Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans
  • The Southern Ocean, along with those three, make up the "world ocean"
  • Coastlines are zones of dynamic activity
  • Coastlines are marked by erosion and the creation, transport, and deposition of sediment
  • Shoreline geometry is an approximate equilibrium between constructive and destructive forces
  • Coastlines are classic examples of systems in dynamic equilibrium
  • A change in the shoreline becomes apparent with any local system imbalance
  • Coastal erosion significantly impacts human interests

Historical Ocean Depth Measurement

  • Before the 20th century, ocean depth was largely unknown
  • Water depths were measured using a weighted line lowered from a ship,which wasn't very efficient
  • In the 1920s, echo sounders were introduced
  • Echo sounders generated a sound pulse which measured the time it took for the echo to return from the seafloor

Modern Ocean Depth Knowledge

  • Echo sounders have allowed for detailed knowledge of seafloor topography and water depth
  • The Mariana Trench near Guam has a measured depth of 10,924 m
  • Recent satellite measurements show the average sea depth is 3970 m
  • The average height of land above sea level is 840 m

Origin and Composition of Ocean Water

  • Earth has had liquid water on its surface for over 4 billion years, dating back to the oldest sedimentary rocks
  • Oxygen isotopes in zircons suggest the ocean may be 4.4 billion years old
  • The precise origin of water is still uncertain
  • Carbonaceous chondrites contain water as hydrous minerals
  • Water may have originated from accretion and volcanic steam from carbonaceous chondrites
  • Icy comets bombarded early Earth, bringing frozen water

Seawater Composition and Salinity

  • Average seawater contains about 3.5% dissolved salts
  • If these salts precipitated, they would form a 56 m thick layer on the seafloor
  • Average salinity ranges from 33 to 37 per mil
  • Salinity is primarily sodium, chlorine, and six other ions
  • These ions are derived from dissolved load in streams, volcanic volatiles carried by atmospheric water, submarine volcanism, aeolian dust, and pollutants
  • Ocean water salinity is related to latitude, evaporation, precipitation, inflow of fresh river water and freezing of sea ice

Ocean Properties and Structure

  • The ocean differs from land in heat storage
  • Water has a lower temperature rise than land for a given amount of heat, and has a high heat capacity
  • Oceans have a low total and seasonal temperature range
  • Ocean temperatures affect climate over ocean and land, controlling plant and animal distribution
  • Ocean properties vary with depth, causing vertical stratification
  • Seawater becomes denser as temperature decreases and salinity increases
  • Gravity pulls denser water down, driving deep ocean circulation
  • The three major depth zones are the surface zone (100-500 m, mixed layer), thermocline/halocline/pycnocline, and deep zone (80% of ocean water)

Biotic Zones

  • Pelagic zone is the upppermost water, where plants and animals live
  • Benthonic organisms live on or within the bottom sediment
  • Planktonic organisms are floating
  • Plant life is restricted to the photic zone
  • Free swimmers, like reptiles, fish, squid, and marine mammals, are only restricted by their locomotion

Ocean Basins and Sediments

  • Oceanic sediment is dominated by the skeletal remains of single-celled planktonic and benthonic animals
  • Calcareous ooze is bottom sediment consisting of more than 30% of these remains and it is carbonate-based
  • Siliceous ooze is bottom sediment consisting of more than 30% of these remains and it is silica-based
  • Lithic sediment, consisting of rock fragments, mantles continental shelves and slopes
  • Coastal deposits include beaches, spits, and barrier islands
  • Beaches are wave-crashed sediment along a coast, including the surf zone
  • Spits are elongate ridges of sand or gravel that project from land and end in open water
  • Barrier islands are long, narrow sandy islands lying parallel to a coast
  • Marine deltas form where surf and currents do not erode all new sediment carried to sea by a stream
  • Sediment builds outward in a fan shape, with size and shape dependent on the balance between sedimentation and erosion
  • Deltas are very fertile regions
  • Estuaries are semienclosed marine embayments diluted with fresh water entering by one or more streams
  • Estuaries with associated coastal wetlands offer important habitats for an array of plants and animals
  • Warm-water coastlines are characterized by limestone reefs
    • Reefs are colonies built by corals and other carbonate-secreting organisms that generate intense biologic productivity and diversity
  • Three principal reef types are:
    • Fringing reefs, attached to or closely borders land
    • Barrier reefs, separated from land by a lagoon
    • Atolls, roughly circular reefs enclosing a lagoon that forms when a volcanic island subsides
  • Responses to coastal erosion fall into three main categories
    • Hard stabilization is structural responses like jetties, breakwaters, and seawalls, and it may accelerate erosion in some areas
    • Soft stabilization is a nonstructural approach with plantings and beach replenishment
    • Retreat limits human interference, such as abandonment

Ocean Circulation

  • Surface ocean currents are broad, slow drifts of surface water
  • These currents are caused by friction between the ocean and air flowing over it
  • They occur to depths of 50-100 m
  • Solar radiation provides heat energy
  • Non-uniform heating generates winds, which drives the movement of surface ocean water
  • Ocean current direction is also influenced by the Coriolis force
  • Ekman transport is due to the balance of wind on surface water and the Coriolis force at depth
  • Ekman transport generates a spiraling current pattern
  • Ekman transport results in a net direction of water movement about 90° to the wind direction
  • Near coasts, Ekman transport leads to vertical movement of ocean water
  • Upwelling occurs if net water transport is away from land
  • Downwelling occurs if net water transport is toward land
  • Geography and ocean current drivers set up the major surface current systems in the world's oceans
  • Each major ocean current is part of a large subcircular current system called a gyre
    • There are 2 gyres in the Pacific
    • There are 2 gyres in the Atlantic
    • There are 2 gyres in the Indian Ocean
  • Ocean regions on either side of the equator are dominated by westward-flowing North and South Equatorial currents
  • Along the equator is the eastward-flowing Equatorial Countercurrent
  • Near 60° latitude, the Antarctic Circumpolar Current circles the globe
  • North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW) originates at the surface of the north Atlantic
  • NADW flows downward and spreads southward to the south Atlantic
  • Flowing beneath the NADW is the colder, denser Antarctic Bottom Water (AABW)
  • The sinking of dense, cold, saline surface water propels a global thermohaline circulation system

Ocean Waves

  • Surface waves get their energy from the wind
  • Wave size is determined by wind speed, duration, and fetch (distance)
  • Important wave dimensions are height (crest to trough) and wavelength (crest to crest or trough to trough)
  • As waves move, each water parcel revolves in a loop, returning to its former position after the wave passes
  • Water motion is negligible at a depth of half the wavelength, which defines the wave base
  • Approaching land where water depth is less than half the wavelength, the circular motion is restricted by the seafloor
  • This restriction flattens the loop of water
  • As depth decreases, a wave's shape distorts with height increasing and wavelength shortening
  • Wave front grows steeper, eventually collapsing (breaking) into turbulent surf
  • Approaching shore, waves refract to parallel the bottom contours
  • An incoming wave's path has two directional components:
    • Parallel to the shore: longshore current
    • Perpendicular to the shore: surf

Tsunami Waves

  • Technically, a tsunami is a seismic sea wave
  • They are generated by sudden seafloor movements from earthquakes, submarine/coastal landslides, or large volcanic eruptions
  • Seafloor displacement causes water displacement, which splits into two oppositely moving components when it falls back down
  • Tsunamis can travel up to 950 km/h, with wavelengths measured in kilometers
  • Wave height is only 1-2 meters in the open ocean
  • They typically aren't seen or felt in the open ocean
  • Periodicity can range from 20 minutes to 1 hour
  • As the crest moves onshore, water can pile up rapidly to heights of 30 meters, traveling inland
  • The trough moving ashore causes drawdown

Ocean Tides

  • Rhythmic, twice-daily rise and fall of ocean water along coastlines occur due to gravitational attraction between the Earth and Moon, and to a lesser extent, the Sun
  • Tides generate tidal bulges due to gravitational pull and inertial force
  • Highest and lowest tides occur when the sun and moon are aligned
  • Least tidal range occurs when the sun and moon are not aligned

Changing Sea Level

  • The level of the sea is changing with respect to the land on most coasts
  • Rapid changes are due to tectonic or isostatic movements of the crust
  • Slow changes are related to global warming
  • Long time interval changes that are eustatic are due to waxing and waning of continental glaciers and ocean-basin volume as lithospheric plates shift position
  • Submergence is the rise of water level relative to the land, and nearly all coasts experienced this in the last 10,000 years due to last ice age
  • Emergence is a lowering of water level relative to the land
  • Cycles of emergence and submergence are related to the buildup and decay of vast ice-age glacier systems
  • If all the water locked up in the cryosphere melted, global sea level would be 65 to 80 m higher
  • Melting of the West Antarctic ice sheet alone could contribute 8 m sea level rise
  • The world marine fish catch is over 80 million tons per year
  • Coastal sedimentary rocks host productive oil-bearing deposits
  • The ocean provides travel and transport
  • The ocean provides energy
  • Ocean provides climate moderation

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