Podcast
Questions and Answers
Given the uneven distribution of land between the northern and southern hemispheres, which of the following statements most accurately describes its effect on global climate patterns?
Given the uneven distribution of land between the northern and southern hemispheres, which of the following statements most accurately describes its effect on global climate patterns?
- It results in uniform temperature distribution across all latitudes due to ocean current moderation.
- It equally distributes precipitation patterns globally, negating regional climatic differences.
- It causes more pronounced seasonal temperature variations in the hemisphere with more landmass. (correct)
- It reduces the overall global average temperature due to increased land albedo.
Considering that approximately 70.8% of Earth's surface is covered by seawater, what far-reaching implication does this have for the planet's thermal regulation?
Considering that approximately 70.8% of Earth's surface is covered by seawater, what far-reaching implication does this have for the planet's thermal regulation?
- It facilitates rapid and extreme temperature fluctuations across various terrestrial regions.
- It provides a substantial buffer against drastic temperature changes due to water's high heat capacity. (correct)
- It exacerbates the greenhouse effect, leading to unchecked global warming.
- It diminishes the Earth's overall capacity to absorb solar radiation due to water's high albedo.
If Earth's oceans precipitated their dissolved salts, forming a layer approximately 56 meters thick, what would be the most significant short-term consequence for terrestrial ecosystems?
If Earth's oceans precipitated their dissolved salts, forming a layer approximately 56 meters thick, what would be the most significant short-term consequence for terrestrial ecosystems?
- A catastrophic disruption of the water cycle, leading to widespread desertification. (correct)
- A uniform distribution of salt across all landmasses, benefiting salt-dependent species.
- A rapid increase in global biodiversity due to newly formed mineral deposits.
- A widespread decrease in soil salinity, enhancing agricultural productivity.
Given the interconnectedness of the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans, alongside the Southern Ocean, how would a significant alteration in the temperature of one ocean basin most likely impact global ocean currents?
Given the interconnectedness of the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans, alongside the Southern Ocean, how would a significant alteration in the temperature of one ocean basin most likely impact global ocean currents?
Considering that the ocean may be 4.4 billion years old based on oxygen isotopes in zircons, which of the following statements best reflects the long-term impact of this ancient presence on Earth's geological processes?
Considering that the ocean may be 4.4 billion years old based on oxygen isotopes in zircons, which of the following statements best reflects the long-term impact of this ancient presence on Earth's geological processes?
If future satellite measurements indicated a consistent increase in the average depth of the sea while the average height of land above sea level remained constant, what could be inferred about changes in the Earth's geological activity?
If future satellite measurements indicated a consistent increase in the average depth of the sea while the average height of land above sea level remained constant, what could be inferred about changes in the Earth's geological activity?
Considering the role of carbonaceous chondrites and icy comets in delivering water to early Earth, what crucial distinction can be made regarding their contributions to the chemical composition of the primordial oceans?
Considering the role of carbonaceous chondrites and icy comets in delivering water to early Earth, what crucial distinction can be made regarding their contributions to the chemical composition of the primordial oceans?
Given that salinity affects seawater density and influences deep ocean circulation, how would a localized, significant freshening event (decrease in salinity) in the North Atlantic most likely impact global climate patterns?
Given that salinity affects seawater density and influences deep ocean circulation, how would a localized, significant freshening event (decrease in salinity) in the North Atlantic most likely impact global climate patterns?
If a new, highly invasive species of plankton capable of absorbing significantly more solar radiation than typical phytoplankton were introduced into the photic zone, what far-reaching effect would this most likely have on marine ecosystems?
If a new, highly invasive species of plankton capable of absorbing significantly more solar radiation than typical phytoplankton were introduced into the photic zone, what far-reaching effect would this most likely have on marine ecosystems?
Assuming echo sounders provide detailed seafloor topography, how might this data be integrated with satellite measurements of sea surface height to enhance our understanding of deep ocean currents?
Assuming echo sounders provide detailed seafloor topography, how might this data be integrated with satellite measurements of sea surface height to enhance our understanding of deep ocean currents?
Considering the vertical stratification of the ocean, what complex relationship exists between the thermocline, halocline, and pycnocline in terms of ocean circulation and nutrient distribution?
Considering the vertical stratification of the ocean, what complex relationship exists between the thermocline, halocline, and pycnocline in terms of ocean circulation and nutrient distribution?
Given that 'free swimmers' are restricted only by their own locomotion, what is the most significant constraint these organisms face compared to planktonic organisms in adapting to changing ocean conditions like acidification or warming?
Given that 'free swimmers' are restricted only by their own locomotion, what is the most significant constraint these organisms face compared to planktonic organisms in adapting to changing ocean conditions like acidification or warming?
If the amount of Aeolian dust deposition into the ocean drastically decreased due to widespread desertification prevention efforts, what complex effect would this most likely have on marine primary productivity and carbon cycling?
If the amount of Aeolian dust deposition into the ocean drastically decreased due to widespread desertification prevention efforts, what complex effect would this most likely have on marine primary productivity and carbon cycling?
Considering the concept of 'per mil' (‰) as a unit of salinity, what nuanced implication does a small but consistent increase in average ocean salinity (e.g., from 35‰ to 35.5‰) have for the solubility of gases like oxygen and carbon dioxide in seawater?
Considering the concept of 'per mil' (‰) as a unit of salinity, what nuanced implication does a small but consistent increase in average ocean salinity (e.g., from 35‰ to 35.5‰) have for the solubility of gases like oxygen and carbon dioxide in seawater?
Given that the Mariana Trench is the deepest part of the ocean at 10,924 m, and considering the extreme pressure and absence of light at such depths, which adaptations are crucial for organisms to thrive in this zone?
Given that the Mariana Trench is the deepest part of the ocean at 10,924 m, and considering the extreme pressure and absence of light at such depths, which adaptations are crucial for organisms to thrive in this zone?
How would a significant reduction in the strength of the North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW) formation most likely affect the global thermohaline circulation?
How would a significant reduction in the strength of the North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW) formation most likely affect the global thermohaline circulation?
If a large-scale, prolonged El Niño event were to occur, causing widespread warming of the Pacific Ocean, how might this affect the intensity and location of coastal upwelling along the western coasts of continents, such as South America?
If a large-scale, prolonged El Niño event were to occur, causing widespread warming of the Pacific Ocean, how might this affect the intensity and location of coastal upwelling along the western coasts of continents, such as South America?
Considering the Ekman transport phenomenon and its influence on coastal upwelling, how would persistent alongshore winds blowing parallel to a coastline in the Southern Hemisphere affect the vertical movement of ocean water?
Considering the Ekman transport phenomenon and its influence on coastal upwelling, how would persistent alongshore winds blowing parallel to a coastline in the Southern Hemisphere affect the vertical movement of ocean water?
Given the role of ocean currents in heat distribution, how would a significant slowing of the Gulf Stream most likely impact the climate of Western Europe?
Given the role of ocean currents in heat distribution, how would a significant slowing of the Gulf Stream most likely impact the climate of Western Europe?
How would a substantial increase in glacial meltwater entering the North Atlantic likely affect the formation of North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW)?
How would a substantial increase in glacial meltwater entering the North Atlantic likely affect the formation of North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW)?
In the context of oceanic sediments, which scenario would most likely result in a greater accumulation of siliceous ooze compared to calcareous ooze on the seafloor?
In the context of oceanic sediments, which scenario would most likely result in a greater accumulation of siliceous ooze compared to calcareous ooze on the seafloor?
Given the influence of major surface ocean current systems on global climate, how would the disruption of gyre circulation patterns in both the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans most likely affect regional and global climate?
Given the influence of major surface ocean current systems on global climate, how would the disruption of gyre circulation patterns in both the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans most likely affect regional and global climate?
Considering the role of single-celled planktonic organisms in the formation of oceanic sediments, how would a significant decrease in ocean pH (ocean acidification) most likely affect the accumulation of calcareous ooze on the seafloor?
Considering the role of single-celled planktonic organisms in the formation of oceanic sediments, how would a significant decrease in ocean pH (ocean acidification) most likely affect the accumulation of calcareous ooze on the seafloor?
If a catastrophic event led to a near-complete shutdown of thermohaline circulation, what long-term consequence would most likely arise concerning global carbon cycling and atmospheric carbon dioxide levels?
If a catastrophic event led to a near-complete shutdown of thermohaline circulation, what long-term consequence would most likely arise concerning global carbon cycling and atmospheric carbon dioxide levels?
Given that surface ocean currents are driven by wind friction, how would a scenario involving a persistent weakening of the trade winds across the equatorial Pacific Ocean most likely affect the strength and characteristics of the equatorial currents?
Given that surface ocean currents are driven by wind friction, how would a scenario involving a persistent weakening of the trade winds across the equatorial Pacific Ocean most likely affect the strength and characteristics of the equatorial currents?
Considering the interplay between lithic sediment and biogenic oozes, what conditions would favor the accumulation of lithic sediment over calcareous and siliceous oozes on a continental slope?
Considering the interplay between lithic sediment and biogenic oozes, what conditions would favor the accumulation of lithic sediment over calcareous and siliceous oozes on a continental slope?
If large-scale geoengineering efforts were implemented to increase ocean albedo (reflectivity), how would this most likely impact surface ocean currents and global heat distribution?
If large-scale geoengineering efforts were implemented to increase ocean albedo (reflectivity), how would this most likely impact surface ocean currents and global heat distribution?
How would a significant intensification of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC) impact the vertical distribution of nutrients in the Southern Ocean and, consequently, marine primary productivity?
How would a significant intensification of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current (ACC) impact the vertical distribution of nutrients in the Southern Ocean and, consequently, marine primary productivity?
Considering the influence of the Coriolis effect on ocean currents, how would a hypothetical scenario involving a significant decrease in Earth's rotation rate affect the direction and intensity of major ocean gyres?
Considering the influence of the Coriolis effect on ocean currents, how would a hypothetical scenario involving a significant decrease in Earth's rotation rate affect the direction and intensity of major ocean gyres?
Given the complexities of ocean circulation and sediment formation, what would be the long-term effect on seafloor sediment composition if a major asteroid impact caused a global extinction event that selectively eliminated calcareous plankton, but not siliceous plankton?
Given the complexities of ocean circulation and sediment formation, what would be the long-term effect on seafloor sediment composition if a major asteroid impact caused a global extinction event that selectively eliminated calcareous plankton, but not siliceous plankton?
Given the relationship between wave energy and wind conditions, how would a sudden, significant decrease in both wind speed and duration over a large oceanic area most likely affect the characteristics of waves generated within that area?
Given the relationship between wave energy and wind conditions, how would a sudden, significant decrease in both wind speed and duration over a large oceanic area most likely affect the characteristics of waves generated within that area?
Considering the concept of wave base, how would an increase in sea level, affecting the depth of the water column, most likely influence the propagation of long-wavelength waves across a continental shelf?
Considering the concept of wave base, how would an increase in sea level, affecting the depth of the water column, most likely influence the propagation of long-wavelength waves across a continental shelf?
Given the process of wave refraction, how would a submerged, lens-shaped geological formation (shallower in the center, deeper at the edges) most likely affect approaching waves, assuming the waves initially encounter the formation at an angle?
Given the process of wave refraction, how would a submerged, lens-shaped geological formation (shallower in the center, deeper at the edges) most likely affect approaching waves, assuming the waves initially encounter the formation at an angle?
If a coastal region experiences a significant increase in storm frequency, leading to enhanced wave action, what complex feedback loop might emerge regarding sediment transport and coastal morphology?
If a coastal region experiences a significant increase in storm frequency, leading to enhanced wave action, what complex feedback loop might emerge regarding sediment transport and coastal morphology?
Considering the dynamics of tsunami generation, how would a submarine landslide with a significant vertical displacement in deep ocean waters most likely differ in wave characteristics from a tsunami generated by a strike-slip fault earthquake?
Considering the dynamics of tsunami generation, how would a submarine landslide with a significant vertical displacement in deep ocean waters most likely differ in wave characteristics from a tsunami generated by a strike-slip fault earthquake?
Given that tsunamis can travel at speeds up to 950 km/h, how would the arrival time of a tsunami at a distant coastal community be affected if the tsunami's path crossed a region with an extensive, deep-sea trench system?
Given that tsunamis can travel at speeds up to 950 km/h, how would the arrival time of a tsunami at a distant coastal community be affected if the tsunami's path crossed a region with an extensive, deep-sea trench system?
Considering the influence of the Moon and Sun on Earth's tides, how would the tidal range be affected if the Moon's orbit were significantly more elliptical, causing substantial variations in its distance from Earth?
Considering the influence of the Moon and Sun on Earth's tides, how would the tidal range be affected if the Moon's orbit were significantly more elliptical, causing substantial variations in its distance from Earth?
Given the alignment of the Sun, Earth, and Moon during spring tides, how would the magnitude of these tides be further influenced if they coincided with a period when the Earth is closest to the Sun (perihelion)?
Given the alignment of the Sun, Earth, and Moon during spring tides, how would the magnitude of these tides be further influenced if they coincided with a period when the Earth is closest to the Sun (perihelion)?
If a hypothetical scenario involved a significant increase in Earth's rotation speed, how would this most likely affect the timing and magnitude of tidal bulges, considering the interplay between gravitational forces and inertial effects?
If a hypothetical scenario involved a significant increase in Earth's rotation speed, how would this most likely affect the timing and magnitude of tidal bulges, considering the interplay between gravitational forces and inertial effects?
Considering the mechanics of wave formation, how would a localized increase in atmospheric pressure, such as that caused by a sudden downdraft from a thunderstorm, most likely affect existing waves on the ocean surface?
Considering the mechanics of wave formation, how would a localized increase in atmospheric pressure, such as that caused by a sudden downdraft from a thunderstorm, most likely affect existing waves on the ocean surface?
How would a prolonged period of unusually high solar activity, leading to increased levels of extreme ultraviolet (EUV) radiation reaching the upper atmosphere, most likely indirectly affect ocean wave dynamics?
How would a prolonged period of unusually high solar activity, leading to increased levels of extreme ultraviolet (EUV) radiation reaching the upper atmosphere, most likely indirectly affect ocean wave dynamics?
How would a significant deepening of the average thermocline depth in a specific oceanic region most likely influence the propagation characteristics of internal waves within that region?
How would a significant deepening of the average thermocline depth in a specific oceanic region most likely influence the propagation characteristics of internal waves within that region?
Given the relationship between fetch and wave development, how would a significant reduction in Arctic sea ice extent, creating a larger area of open water, most likely affect wave climates in the Arctic Ocean?
Given the relationship between fetch and wave development, how would a significant reduction in Arctic sea ice extent, creating a larger area of open water, most likely affect wave climates in the Arctic Ocean?
Assuming a catastrophic event leads to the rapid acidification of a coastal marine environment, how would this most likely impact the structural integrity and wave-buffering capacity of existing coral reef ecosystems?
Assuming a catastrophic event leads to the rapid acidification of a coastal marine environment, how would this most likely impact the structural integrity and wave-buffering capacity of existing coral reef ecosystems?
If large-scale offshore wind farms are constructed in a region with strong prevailing winds and significant wave activity, how might these structures collectively influence nearshore wave dynamics and sediment transport patterns?
If large-scale offshore wind farms are constructed in a region with strong prevailing winds and significant wave activity, how might these structures collectively influence nearshore wave dynamics and sediment transport patterns?
Which scenario most accurately describes the dynamic equilibrium of a shoreline?
Which scenario most accurately describes the dynamic equilibrium of a shoreline?
How do marine deltas form, and what primarily controls their overall size and shape?
How do marine deltas form, and what primarily controls their overall size and shape?
Considering the characteristics of estuaries, what is the most ecologically significant feature of these environments?
Considering the characteristics of estuaries, what is the most ecologically significant feature of these environments?
Which distinction between the different types of reefs is most critical in understanding their formation and location?
Which distinction between the different types of reefs is most critical in understanding their formation and location?
What is the most far-reaching implication of coastlines existing in a state of dynamic equilibrium?
What is the most far-reaching implication of coastlines existing in a state of dynamic equilibrium?
What critical problem arises from implementing hard stabilization methods along coastlines?
What critical problem arises from implementing hard stabilization methods along coastlines?
How does the concept of 'retreat' apply to managing coastal erosion, and what are its primary limitations?
How does the concept of 'retreat' apply to managing coastal erosion, and what are its primary limitations?
Considering the topic of changing sea levels, what is the key distinction between rapid and slow changes, and what primary mechanisms drive these differences?
Considering the topic of changing sea levels, what is the key distinction between rapid and slow changes, and what primary mechanisms drive these differences?
Which statement most accurately reflects the processes of submergence and emergence and their relationship to past glacial activity?
Which statement most accurately reflects the processes of submergence and emergence and their relationship to past glacial activity?
Considering the cryosphere's influence on global sea level, what is the most accurate understanding of the potential impact of melting ice sheets?
Considering the cryosphere's influence on global sea level, what is the most accurate understanding of the potential impact of melting ice sheets?
Which of the described coastal deposits is best defined as elongate ridges of sand or gravel that project from land and end in open water?
Which of the described coastal deposits is best defined as elongate ridges of sand or gravel that project from land and end in open water?
What combination of factors is most likely to lead to the formation of a marine delta known for its extensive fertility?
What combination of factors is most likely to lead to the formation of a marine delta known for its extensive fertility?
Considering the relationship between reefs and warm-water coastlines, what distinguishes an atoll from a barrier reef?
Considering the relationship between reefs and warm-water coastlines, what distinguishes an atoll from a barrier reef?
Given the human interventions designed to manage coastal erosion, what is the central trade-off associated with 'hard stabilization' approaches such as jetties and seawalls?
Given the human interventions designed to manage coastal erosion, what is the central trade-off associated with 'hard stabilization' approaches such as jetties and seawalls?
Considering the connection between sea ice, land ice, and overall sea level, how does the potential melting of the West Antarctic ice sheet specifically influence global sea level projections?
Considering the connection between sea ice, land ice, and overall sea level, how does the potential melting of the West Antarctic ice sheet specifically influence global sea level projections?
Flashcards
Seawater Coverage
Seawater Coverage
Seawater covers approximately 70.8% of Earth's surface.
Land Distribution
Land Distribution
The land is unevenly distributed between the northern and southern hemispheres.
Major Ocean Basins
Major Ocean Basins
The main oceans interconnected basins are the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans, along with the Southern Ocean which make up the world ocean.
Echo Sounders
Echo Sounders
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Age of Liquid Water
Age of Liquid Water
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Origin of Water
Origin of Water
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Average Salinity
Average Salinity
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Factors Affecting Salinity
Factors Affecting Salinity
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Ocean's Climatic Influence
Ocean's Climatic Influence
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Heat Capacity of Ocean
Heat Capacity of Ocean
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Seawater Density
Seawater Density
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Ocean Depth Zones
Ocean Depth Zones
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Pelagic Zone
Pelagic Zone
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Benthonic Zone
Benthonic Zone
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Free Swimmers
Free Swimmers
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Oceanic Sediment Composition
Oceanic Sediment Composition
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Calcareous Ooze
Calcareous Ooze
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Siliceous Ooze
Siliceous Ooze
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Lithic Sediment
Lithic Sediment
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Surface Ocean Currents
Surface Ocean Currents
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Coriolis Force Effect on ocean currents
Coriolis Force Effect on ocean currents
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Ekman Transport
Ekman Transport
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Upwelling
Upwelling
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Downwelling
Downwelling
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Ocean Gyres
Ocean Gyres
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North and South Equatorial Currents
North and South Equatorial Currents
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Equatorial Countercurrent
Equatorial Countercurrent
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Antarctic Circumpolar Current
Antarctic Circumpolar Current
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North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW)
North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW)
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Antarctic Bottom Water (AABW)
Antarctic Bottom Water (AABW)
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Ocean Wave Energy Source
Ocean Wave Energy Source
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Wave Size Factors
Wave Size Factors
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Wave Height
Wave Height
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Wavelength
Wavelength
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Wave Base
Wave Base
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Wave Breaking
Wave Breaking
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Wave Refraction
Wave Refraction
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Tsunami
Tsunami
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Tsunami Characteristics
Tsunami Characteristics
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Wave Periodicity
Wave Periodicity
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Drawdown
Drawdown
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Ocean Tides
Ocean Tides
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Tidal Cause
Tidal Cause
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Tidal Bulges
Tidal Bulges
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Tidal Range
Tidal Range
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Land and Ocean Meeting Points
Land and Ocean Meeting Points
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Beach
Beach
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Spit
Spit
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Barrier Island
Barrier Island
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Marine Deltas
Marine Deltas
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Estuary
Estuary
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Reefs
Reefs
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Fringing Reef
Fringing Reef
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Barrier Reef
Barrier Reef
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Atoll
Atoll
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Hard Stabilization
Hard Stabilization
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Soft Stabilization
Soft Stabilization
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Submergence
Submergence
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Emergence
Emergence
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Eustatic Changes
Eustatic Changes
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Study Notes
- Seawater covers 70.8% of Earth's surface
- Land covers the remaining 29.2%
- Land is unevenly distributed between the northern and southern hemispheres
- Most water is in three interconnected basins: Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans
- The Southern Ocean, along with those three, make up the "world ocean"
- Coastlines are zones of dynamic activity
- Coastlines are marked by erosion and the creation, transport, and deposition of sediment
- Shoreline geometry is an approximate equilibrium between constructive and destructive forces
- Coastlines are classic examples of systems in dynamic equilibrium
- A change in the shoreline becomes apparent with any local system imbalance
- Coastal erosion significantly impacts human interests
Historical Ocean Depth Measurement
- Before the 20th century, ocean depth was largely unknown
- Water depths were measured using a weighted line lowered from a ship,which wasn't very efficient
- In the 1920s, echo sounders were introduced
- Echo sounders generated a sound pulse which measured the time it took for the echo to return from the seafloor
Modern Ocean Depth Knowledge
- Echo sounders have allowed for detailed knowledge of seafloor topography and water depth
- The Mariana Trench near Guam has a measured depth of 10,924 m
- Recent satellite measurements show the average sea depth is 3970 m
- The average height of land above sea level is 840 m
Origin and Composition of Ocean Water
- Earth has had liquid water on its surface for over 4 billion years, dating back to the oldest sedimentary rocks
- Oxygen isotopes in zircons suggest the ocean may be 4.4 billion years old
- The precise origin of water is still uncertain
- Carbonaceous chondrites contain water as hydrous minerals
- Water may have originated from accretion and volcanic steam from carbonaceous chondrites
- Icy comets bombarded early Earth, bringing frozen water
Seawater Composition and Salinity
- Average seawater contains about 3.5% dissolved salts
- If these salts precipitated, they would form a 56 m thick layer on the seafloor
- Average salinity ranges from 33 to 37 per mil
- Salinity is primarily sodium, chlorine, and six other ions
- These ions are derived from dissolved load in streams, volcanic volatiles carried by atmospheric water, submarine volcanism, aeolian dust, and pollutants
- Ocean water salinity is related to latitude, evaporation, precipitation, inflow of fresh river water and freezing of sea ice
Ocean Properties and Structure
- The ocean differs from land in heat storage
- Water has a lower temperature rise than land for a given amount of heat, and has a high heat capacity
- Oceans have a low total and seasonal temperature range
- Ocean temperatures affect climate over ocean and land, controlling plant and animal distribution
- Ocean properties vary with depth, causing vertical stratification
- Seawater becomes denser as temperature decreases and salinity increases
- Gravity pulls denser water down, driving deep ocean circulation
- The three major depth zones are the surface zone (100-500 m, mixed layer), thermocline/halocline/pycnocline, and deep zone (80% of ocean water)
Biotic Zones
- Pelagic zone is the upppermost water, where plants and animals live
- Benthonic organisms live on or within the bottom sediment
- Planktonic organisms are floating
- Plant life is restricted to the photic zone
- Free swimmers, like reptiles, fish, squid, and marine mammals, are only restricted by their locomotion
Ocean Basins and Sediments
- Oceanic sediment is dominated by the skeletal remains of single-celled planktonic and benthonic animals
- Calcareous ooze is bottom sediment consisting of more than 30% of these remains and it is carbonate-based
- Siliceous ooze is bottom sediment consisting of more than 30% of these remains and it is silica-based
- Lithic sediment, consisting of rock fragments, mantles continental shelves and slopes
- Coastal deposits include beaches, spits, and barrier islands
- Beaches are wave-crashed sediment along a coast, including the surf zone
- Spits are elongate ridges of sand or gravel that project from land and end in open water
- Barrier islands are long, narrow sandy islands lying parallel to a coast
- Marine deltas form where surf and currents do not erode all new sediment carried to sea by a stream
- Sediment builds outward in a fan shape, with size and shape dependent on the balance between sedimentation and erosion
- Deltas are very fertile regions
- Estuaries are semienclosed marine embayments diluted with fresh water entering by one or more streams
- Estuaries with associated coastal wetlands offer important habitats for an array of plants and animals
- Warm-water coastlines are characterized by limestone reefs
- Reefs are colonies built by corals and other carbonate-secreting organisms that generate intense biologic productivity and diversity
- Three principal reef types are:
- Fringing reefs, attached to or closely borders land
- Barrier reefs, separated from land by a lagoon
- Atolls, roughly circular reefs enclosing a lagoon that forms when a volcanic island subsides
- Responses to coastal erosion fall into three main categories
- Hard stabilization is structural responses like jetties, breakwaters, and seawalls, and it may accelerate erosion in some areas
- Soft stabilization is a nonstructural approach with plantings and beach replenishment
- Retreat limits human interference, such as abandonment
Ocean Circulation
- Surface ocean currents are broad, slow drifts of surface water
- These currents are caused by friction between the ocean and air flowing over it
- They occur to depths of 50-100 m
- Solar radiation provides heat energy
- Non-uniform heating generates winds, which drives the movement of surface ocean water
- Ocean current direction is also influenced by the Coriolis force
- Ekman transport is due to the balance of wind on surface water and the Coriolis force at depth
- Ekman transport generates a spiraling current pattern
- Ekman transport results in a net direction of water movement about 90° to the wind direction
- Near coasts, Ekman transport leads to vertical movement of ocean water
- Upwelling occurs if net water transport is away from land
- Downwelling occurs if net water transport is toward land
- Geography and ocean current drivers set up the major surface current systems in the world's oceans
- Each major ocean current is part of a large subcircular current system called a gyre
- There are 2 gyres in the Pacific
- There are 2 gyres in the Atlantic
- There are 2 gyres in the Indian Ocean
- Ocean regions on either side of the equator are dominated by westward-flowing North and South Equatorial currents
- Along the equator is the eastward-flowing Equatorial Countercurrent
- Near 60° latitude, the Antarctic Circumpolar Current circles the globe
- North Atlantic Deep Water (NADW) originates at the surface of the north Atlantic
- NADW flows downward and spreads southward to the south Atlantic
- Flowing beneath the NADW is the colder, denser Antarctic Bottom Water (AABW)
- The sinking of dense, cold, saline surface water propels a global thermohaline circulation system
Ocean Waves
- Surface waves get their energy from the wind
- Wave size is determined by wind speed, duration, and fetch (distance)
- Important wave dimensions are height (crest to trough) and wavelength (crest to crest or trough to trough)
- As waves move, each water parcel revolves in a loop, returning to its former position after the wave passes
- Water motion is negligible at a depth of half the wavelength, which defines the wave base
- Approaching land where water depth is less than half the wavelength, the circular motion is restricted by the seafloor
- This restriction flattens the loop of water
- As depth decreases, a wave's shape distorts with height increasing and wavelength shortening
- Wave front grows steeper, eventually collapsing (breaking) into turbulent surf
- Approaching shore, waves refract to parallel the bottom contours
- An incoming wave's path has two directional components:
- Parallel to the shore: longshore current
- Perpendicular to the shore: surf
Tsunami Waves
- Technically, a tsunami is a seismic sea wave
- They are generated by sudden seafloor movements from earthquakes, submarine/coastal landslides, or large volcanic eruptions
- Seafloor displacement causes water displacement, which splits into two oppositely moving components when it falls back down
- Tsunamis can travel up to 950 km/h, with wavelengths measured in kilometers
- Wave height is only 1-2 meters in the open ocean
- They typically aren't seen or felt in the open ocean
- Periodicity can range from 20 minutes to 1 hour
- As the crest moves onshore, water can pile up rapidly to heights of 30 meters, traveling inland
- The trough moving ashore causes drawdown
Ocean Tides
- Rhythmic, twice-daily rise and fall of ocean water along coastlines occur due to gravitational attraction between the Earth and Moon, and to a lesser extent, the Sun
- Tides generate tidal bulges due to gravitational pull and inertial force
- Highest and lowest tides occur when the sun and moon are aligned
- Least tidal range occurs when the sun and moon are not aligned
Changing Sea Level
- The level of the sea is changing with respect to the land on most coasts
- Rapid changes are due to tectonic or isostatic movements of the crust
- Slow changes are related to global warming
- Long time interval changes that are eustatic are due to waxing and waning of continental glaciers and ocean-basin volume as lithospheric plates shift position
- Submergence is the rise of water level relative to the land, and nearly all coasts experienced this in the last 10,000 years due to last ice age
- Emergence is a lowering of water level relative to the land
- Cycles of emergence and submergence are related to the buildup and decay of vast ice-age glacier systems
- If all the water locked up in the cryosphere melted, global sea level would be 65 to 80 m higher
- Melting of the West Antarctic ice sheet alone could contribute 8 m sea level rise
- The world marine fish catch is over 80 million tons per year
- Coastal sedimentary rocks host productive oil-bearing deposits
- The ocean provides travel and transport
- The ocean provides energy
- Ocean provides climate moderation
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