Knitwear Overview and Technology
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Questions and Answers

What does Power’s (2008) work primarily contextualize?

  • Historical evolution of knitting
  • Basic weft-knitted structures (correct)
  • Trends in knitwear fashion
  • Designer techniques in haute couture
  • Which publication discusses the design aspects of knitwear?

  • Designing a Knitwear Collection (correct)
  • Employment in the Knitwear Industry
  • Knitwear as an Art Form
  • Advances in Apparel Production
  • What aspect of knitwear does Black’s work emphasize?

  • Current market trends
  • Technological advancements in knitting
  • Knitwear as an art form (correct)
  • Employment opportunities in the industry
  • How does Jenkyn Jones’ publication differ from traditional fashion industry texts?

    <p>It separates knitwear opportunities from mainstream womenswear.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Why are historical publications considered valuable in the study of knitwear?

    <p>They provide insights into knitting's versatility and resilience.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What type of content does Knitting International magazine provide?

    <p>Information on knitting technology evolution</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is one of the focuses of Drapers magazine in relation to knitwear?

    <p>Current and predicted market trends</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following best describes the significance of new technologies in modern knitwear?

    <p>They have impacted fashion knitwear significantly.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What contributes to the significant share gained by knitwear in the global fashion market?

    <p>The acceptability of casual dress and versatility of modern knitting machinery</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following accurately describes weft knitting?

    <p>Is typically associated with hand knitting techniques.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What was one significant innovation in the knitting industry mentioned?

    <p>The development of knitting machinery by William Lee</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How are warp knitted fabrics distinctly different from weft-knitted fabrics?

    <p>Warp knitted fabrics are made using a single continuous yarn.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What aspect should be considered before starting the design process of a fashion garment?

    <p>User requirements and preferences</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What characteristic of modern knitting machinery enhances textile production?

    <p>It operates at extremely fast speeds while maintaining high quality.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the primary focus of the middle section of the chapter?

    <p>The types of knitted fabrics and their technologies</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a key property of knitted fabrics that contributes to their versatility?

    <p>The series of intermeshing loops that allows for flexibility</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the main technology predicted to replace traditional knitting needles?

    <p>Rotors developed by Japanese engineers</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a 'wale' in the context of knitting?

    <p>A stitch in commercial knitting</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which knitting technique is described as producing a seamless tube?

    <p>Circular technology</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What potential environmental benefit is associated with the new rotor technology in knitting?

    <p>Significantly less energy consumption</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the distinction between flatbed knitting machines and circular knitting machines?

    <p>Flatbed machines produce flat fabric, circular machines produce tubes</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following knitted structures is most commonly associated with hand knitting?

    <p>Weft knitting</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which phrase best describes the future of the knitwear industry according to the provided content?

    <p>Innovation and competition in new markets</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the main focus of complete garment technology in knitting?

    <p>Creating garments in their entirety</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How are knitted fabrics typically characterized in relation to twist compared to woven fabrics?

    <p>They have less twist</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a significant market trend in the garment industry reflected in recent T-shirt sales?

    <p>Growth in knitted garments</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which aspect is primarily influenced by computer technology in knitting?

    <p>Design innovation of knitted products</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What could be a potential topic of research regarding stitch density in knitted fabrics?

    <p>Calculating wales and courses per 10 cm</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which publication is recognized as a leading source for detailed aspects of knitting technology?

    <p>David Spencer’s Knitting Technology</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What technology is primarily favored for knitting acrylic yarn structures due to its versatility?

    <p>Flatbed technology</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which fibers are ideal for modern sports base layers to ensure moisture management?

    <p>Polyester and polypropylene</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a key advantage of circular weft-knitted or warp knitted structures in sports apparel?

    <p>They offer advanced properties like comfort and breathability.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How has globalization impacted the knitwear industry?

    <p>It has led to a technological revolution in low-cost labor countries.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is expected to characterize the retail environment of the future in knitwear?

    <p>The demand for customized alternatives tailored to consumer needs.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a primary disadvantage of plain structures in garment construction?

    <p>It tends to unravel easily.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which characteristic does rib structure possess that plain structure does not?

    <p>Resistance to edge curling.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What innovative project has focused on creating custom-made compression garments?

    <p>Scan to Knit project</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the primary use for purl structures in knitting?

    <p>Decorative applications.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which fiber is noted as the most used in knitted sports apparel?

    <p>Polyester</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How do rib structures typically fit on the body?

    <p>Tight fitting.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What advancement is predicted to drive significant growth in the knitwear market over the next decade?

    <p>Development in sport and active apparel.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the primary reason for the high production cost of purl structures?

    <p>Transferring of wales between courses.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which technology remains unrivaled in patterning and shaping capability for knitted garments?

    <p>Modern computer controlled flatbed machinery</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a challenge currently faced by innovative knitwear production technologies?

    <p>Lack of skilled personnel required to operate systems.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a unique feature of balanced rib structures?

    <p>They contain equal number of face and reverse loops.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the predicted impact of the fast fashion phenomenon on future consumer preferences for knitwear?

    <p>Consumers will seek more customized clothing options.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the advantage of using circular knitting machines in production?

    <p>Continuous tubular fabric production.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which machinery is specifically designed to manufacture seamless garments?

    <p>Flatbed machinery.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What trend has been observed in fashion cycles impacting the production of knitwear?

    <p>A shift towards rapid capsule collections replenished every few months.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which type of machinery is highlighted for its ability to produce complete knitted garments?

    <p>Flatbed machinery</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What type of garments traditionally used rib structures for insulation?

    <p>Anglers' outwear known as 'ganseys'.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following is a feature of purl structures in terms of elasticity?

    <p>They collapse in the length direction.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which knitting structure allows for better thermal insulation when in a collapsed state?

    <p>Rib structures.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What type of knitting machine does Santoni produce that is known for seamless technology?

    <p>Circular knitting machine.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    In what way can weft-knitted fabrics be enhanced visually?

    <p>Introducing varying stitch types and colors.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a distinguishing characteristic of unbalanced rib structures?

    <p>They are designed for visual effect.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What are the characteristics of knitted fabrics compared to woven fabrics?

    <p>Less stable and more flexible</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the primary mechanical action that differs between mechanical and hand knitting?

    <p>Movement of wrists and fingers</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What term is used to describe the distance between needles in a knitting machine?

    <p>Gauge</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the term used for the vertical loops counted in knitted fabrics?

    <p>Courses</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which type of knitted fabric is most commonly found in retail clothing?

    <p>Weft-knitted fabrics</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What effect does the yarn twist have on knitted fabrics?

    <p>Ensures flexibility</p> Signup and view all the answers

    In weft knitting, how does the yarn move during the knitting process?

    <p>Horizontally from selvage to selvage</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What challenges do weft-knitted fabrics face?

    <p>Prone to pilling and laddering</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the characteristic structure of plain weft-knitted fabrics?

    <p>Identical loops intermeshed together</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What produces the downward force necessary for completing the knitting cycle?

    <p>Takedown force</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which knitted fabric type is characterized by its stability and resistance to ladders?

    <p>Warp-knitted fabrics</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the appearance of the reverse side of plain knitted fabrics?

    <p>Wave or rippled appearance</p> Signup and view all the answers

    For which applications are ultra-lightweight (fine gauge) knitted fabrics typically used?

    <p>Underwear and sporting applications</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What distinguishes rib weft-knitted structures from other weft structures?

    <p>Alternating knit and purl stitches</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What was a significant change in knitwear design during the 1990s?

    <p>The production of fully shaped panels using cost-effective yarns</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What advantage does complete garment technology offer?

    <p>Elimination of waste and seams</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which company introduced the Wholegarment range of machinery in 1995?

    <p>Shima Seiki</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What limitation did early models of Wholegarment machinery face?

    <p>Too restrictive programming capabilities</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What type of programming languages were introduced by machine builders in the knitting technology?

    <p>Dedicated programming languages</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which feature enabled the commercial viability of variable stroke or partial knitting?

    <p>Computer control of individual needles</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What influence did the fashion industry experience due to advancements in knitting technology in the 1990s?

    <p>Cost-effective production of shaped knitted panels</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What technological advancement allows modern flatbed weft-knitting machines to control many needles individually?

    <p>Specialized electronics and software</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a significant challenge faced by designers in utilizing advanced knitting machinery?

    <p>Limited understanding of machine capabilities</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is an expected market trend for complete garment knitting products?

    <p>Gaining market share in sportswear and casual wear</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following features does the latest graphic software provide for knitwear design?

    <p>Simulation of complex stitches and 3D designs</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of these fabric structures is primarily used to add aesthetic value in clothing applications?

    <p>Jacquards</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How has fast fashion impacted the development process of knitwear?

    <p>Decreased time to transform designs into reality</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What does the Mach 2X and Mach 2S machine range claim to improve?

    <p>Higher productivity compared to earlier Wholegarment versions</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What was the significance of William Lee's invention in 1589?

    <p>It was the first weft-knitting machine</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which modification to the knitting needle was patented by Matthew Townsend in 1849?

    <p>Latch needle</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What has been a historical role of pioneering designers like Kenzo and Miyake in knitting technologies?

    <p>Creating oversized motifs and asymmetrical designs</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following is NOT one of the five general structure categories for fabrics?

    <p>Solid structures</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What was a major factor in moving knitting from a cottage industry to global production?

    <p>Development of water and steam powered machinery</p> Signup and view all the answers

    During which era did knitwear become firmly established as a fashion item in women's wardrobes?

    <p>Post-1918</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which technological advancement allowed for simpler jacquard pattern production in flatbed machines?

    <p>Punched tape electronic control</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What characteristic differentiates bi-directional stretch fabrics from compression fabrics?

    <p>Bi-directional stretch fabrics provide stretch in multiple directions.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which knitting machine was introduced in the 1970s, characterized by its electro/mechanical needle selection?

    <p>PDE flat knitting machine</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What notable change occurred in the knitting industry after the introduction of the CMS series in 1987?

    <p>Individual needle control allowed for more complex patterns.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Who was responsible for the development of the Derby Rib attachment in 1759?

    <p>Jedediah Strutt</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What was significant about the knitting developments in the 1950s?

    <p>Introduction of electronics to control knitting machinery</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What was one of the first examples of a factory system worldwide, credited to the textile industry?

    <p>The spinning and weaving mills of Lancashire</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which company introduced the glove knitting machine during the key period of knitting technology advancements?

    <p>Shima Seiki</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a significant disadvantage of flatbed knitting machines compared to circular knitting machines?

    <p>They knit at a slower speed.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which statement best describes the main feature of complete garment knitting machines?

    <p>They create seamless garments in one operation.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which type of warp knitting machine is known for producing fabrics used in lingerie and sportswear?

    <p>Tricot machine.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is a common characteristic of fabrics produced by raschel machines?

    <p>They can knit open works and fancy structures.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How do warp knitted structures differ from weft knitted structures?

    <p>Warp structures are constructed from intertwined loops with zigzag yarn crossing.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What provides a key functional advantage of warp knitting over weft knitting?

    <p>Higher production speeds.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What does it mean when a fabric is described as having 'good extensibility'?

    <p>It can stretch significantly without breaking.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following best applies to the majority of fashion knitwear production?

    <p>Flatbed machinery is predominantly used.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What limits the production capability of the simplest warp knitted structures?

    <p>They are unstable when the knitting takedown is removed.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the primary difference between tricot and raschel machines in warp knitting?

    <p>Tricot machines make only plain fabrics.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    How are yarns supplied to each needle in a warp knitting machine?

    <p>Via individual independent yarn sources.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is one of the main characteristics of fabrics produced from tricot machines?

    <p>Excellent drape and flat appearance.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What kind of machines are Stoll and Shima Seiki known for innovating?

    <p>Complete garment knitting machines.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which concept describes the capability of warp fabrics to combine properties of both woven and weft-knitted fabrics?

    <p>Technological fusion of weaving and knitting.</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which factor is essential for maintaining quality in knitted fabrics, irrespective of other variables?

    <p>Loop or stitch length</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is stitch density defined as?

    <p>The number of wales per cm and courses per cm</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which measurement is commonly specified to ensure consistent quality in the production of knitted fabrics?

    <p>Set number of wales</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What method is used to manually measure yarn length from a knitted fabric?

    <p>HATRA course length tester</p> Signup and view all the answers

    When producing tight-fitting garments, which knitting structure is often preferred?

    <p>Rib structure</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is one of the desirable properties of knitted garments that has contributed to their popularity in the fashion market?

    <p>Good thermal insulation</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which type of knitting structure is advantageous when a garment needs flexibility and good elastic recovery?

    <p>Weft-knit structures</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following fibers is mentioned as a suitable choice for fashion garments with short trend life?

    <p>High-bulk acrylic</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the role of tensioning yarns properly in knitting processes?

    <p>To ensure constant yarn length delivery</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which knitting geometry relationship is becoming less frequently used in fashion knitwear due to its complexity?

    <p>Ratio of wales to courses</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which of the following is a key parameter measured to calculate the width and length of any garment panel?

    <p>Stitch density</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the preferred gauge to use for a fine rib structure intended for tight-fitting garments?

    <p>10 or 12 gauge</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What is the primary benefit of using high-bulk acrylic in knitted garments?

    <p>Good stretch and recovery</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Which organization’s course length tester is utilized for fabric sample measurement?

    <p>HATRA</p> Signup and view all the answers

    What should be considered carefully when selecting raw materials for knitted garments intended for fashion applications?

    <p>The cost of raw material</p> Signup and view all the answers

    Study Notes

    Knitwear Overview

    • Knitwear has gained a significant global market share due to casual dress trends and the versatility of modern knitting machinery.
    • Knitting is a versatile textile method creating intermeshing loops from yarn.
    • Historically, loop formation included knotting or spool-and-pin methods, but modern fashion knitwear (weft knitting) primarily uses hand- or machine-based needle technologies.
    • Hand knitting, dating back to the 15th century, is a skilled craft, while modern knitwear is produced by sophisticated computer-controlled machinery.
    • William Lee's invention of the stocking frame in 1589 marked a key technological milestone.
    • Two distinct knitting technologies exist (warp and weft) producing diverse fabrics for different applications.
    • Knitted fabrics are generally less stable, more flexible, and have better drape than woven counterparts.
    • Recent trends toward casual dress have significantly increased knitwear's popularity.

    Loop Formation Process

    • Mechanical loop formation differs significantly from hand knitting's complex wrist and finger movements.
    • Each loop requires a specific needle, the type varying by machine.
    • Loop formation involves six stages.
      • Stage 1: Needle at rest position.
      • Stage 2: Needle moves to the knit position.
      • Stage 3: New yarn inserted into the hook.
      • Stage 4: Old loop slips under latch, forcing it to close.
      • Stage 5: Old loop knocks over.
      • Stage 6: Takedown force completes the cycle, returning the needle to rest position.
    • Yarns used for knitted fabrics have less twist compared to woven fabrics.

    Knitting Terminology

    • Stitches (wales) are counted horizontally, and rows (courses) are counted vertically.
    • "Stitch" in industrial knitting terms refers to the type of stitch (knit, float, tuck), not the loop.
    • Fabric weight varies from fine gauge (lightweight) to chunky gauge (heavyweight).
      • Gauge represents needle count per unit length for needle bed.

    Weft-Knitted Structures

    • Most high-street knitwear is made of weft-knitted fabric.
    • Weft knitting is versatile, creating a variety of structures with patterns.
    • Basic weft-knitted structures include plain, rib, and purl.
      • Plain: Identical looping pattern, differing appearances front and back; unstable edges.
      • Rib: Face & reverse loops in the same course; balanced rib looks the same on both sides, while unbalanced ribs have a defined "face" side; highly stable edges with good elongation; thicker in collapsed state.
      • Purl: Decorative structure; identical stitches alternating front/back, producing a ripple effect, good for infant/child apparel; More expensive to produce.

    Weft-Knitting Machines

    • Three main types of weft-knitting machines: circular, fully fashioned, and flatbed.
    • A new flatbed type emerged producing seamless garments
    • Most productive method is the circular knitting machine forming continuous tubes.
    • Single- and double-jersey fabrics used for T-shirts & sweatshirts are often made by circular technology
    • Flatbed (or rib) machines are versatile handling ribs, complex structures, diverse patterning options, and panel shaping; currently faster than in the past.
    • Complete garment knitting (seamless) machines knit entire garments in one stage, eliminating waste & seams, common in designer and high street brands.

    Warp-Knitted Structures

    • Warp knitted structures are made from intertwined loops with crossing yarns.
    • Warp machines have needles across the machine width. Each needle has an individual yarn source/guide.
    • All loops in a course are formed simultaneously.
    • Warp fabrics are frequently continuous sheets from filament yarns; machinery ranges from small (scarf/crochet) to wide (industrial).
    • Warp knit fabrics have properties similar to woven structures (stability) or more extensibility.
    • Major types are tricot & raschel machines.
    • Tricot machines produce plain-type fabrics (e.g. lingerie, sportswear).
    • Raschel machines produce openworks, laces, fancywork, pile fabrics, with less stretching.

    Knitting Developments

    • Significant technological advancements since William Lee's invention.
    • Refinements include improved mechanical action for finer fabrics, alternative structure development, automated weft and warp machines.
    • Introduction of computerized mechanisms, variable stroke knitting, and complete garment machines.
    • Innovations resulted in sophisticated machinery, influencing design (e.g., skinny ribs).
    • Computer-controlled systems are enabling production of complex patterns and shaped panels.

    Quality Control

    • Knitting fabric quality is influenced by factors like stitch type, yarn, fiber, and delivery friction.
    • Loop length (or stitch length) measurement, essential for quality, is measured across defined numbers of stitches.
    • Stich density (wales and courses/cm/in) is another key control point for ensuring accurate garment dimensions and maintaining consistent quality.
    • Fabric samples are unreeved and measured using tools like HATRA testers and cross-referenced against machine reported data, to ensure consistent quality of yarn delivery.

    Case Study/Design Considerations

    • Knitted garments increasingly important for fashion reasons e.g., elastic recovery, drape, easy-care, thermal insulation, formability and softness.
    • Design considerations for clothing should incorporate user requirements (warmth, comfort, and care) and fabric properties.
    • Material choices (e.g., fibers like acrylic or polyester) impact final fabric quality and cost in relation to garment's intended use.
    • Knitwear's continued prominence is predicted, with advancements in machinery supporting pattern and shape generation.
    • Globalisation's influence on the industry is substantial, including low-cost labor opportunities.
    • Future knitwear will combine advanced materials with sophisticated technology for innovative designs.
    • Opportunities exist for computer-aided design (CAD) and computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) to improve garment simulations and customer experiences.
    • Customisation and on-demand garment production will become more common.

    Project Ideas

    • Project 1: Observation of knitwear collections in stores.
    • Project 2: Knitwear weight categorization.
    • Project 3: Calculation of stitch density.
    • Project 4: Evaluation of garments considering fitness for purpose/user requirements and materials options.

    Revision Questions

    • These questions cover the materials presented, relating to knitwear technologies and design principles.

    Sources of Further Information

    • This list identifies additional resources including books and magazines for deeper dives into specific technological and design aspects of knitwear.

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    Description

    Explore the fascinating world of knitwear, from its historical roots to modern manufacturing processes. This quiz covers the evolution of knitting techniques and the impact of casual dress trends on the knitwear market. Discover the differences between warp and weft knitting and the significance of technological advancements in this field.

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