Podcast
Questions and Answers
What does Power’s (2008) work primarily contextualize?
What does Power’s (2008) work primarily contextualize?
Which publication discusses the design aspects of knitwear?
Which publication discusses the design aspects of knitwear?
What aspect of knitwear does Black’s work emphasize?
What aspect of knitwear does Black’s work emphasize?
How does Jenkyn Jones’ publication differ from traditional fashion industry texts?
How does Jenkyn Jones’ publication differ from traditional fashion industry texts?
Signup and view all the answers
Why are historical publications considered valuable in the study of knitwear?
Why are historical publications considered valuable in the study of knitwear?
Signup and view all the answers
What type of content does Knitting International magazine provide?
What type of content does Knitting International magazine provide?
Signup and view all the answers
What is one of the focuses of Drapers magazine in relation to knitwear?
What is one of the focuses of Drapers magazine in relation to knitwear?
Signup and view all the answers
Which of the following best describes the significance of new technologies in modern knitwear?
Which of the following best describes the significance of new technologies in modern knitwear?
Signup and view all the answers
What contributes to the significant share gained by knitwear in the global fashion market?
What contributes to the significant share gained by knitwear in the global fashion market?
Signup and view all the answers
Which of the following accurately describes weft knitting?
Which of the following accurately describes weft knitting?
Signup and view all the answers
What was one significant innovation in the knitting industry mentioned?
What was one significant innovation in the knitting industry mentioned?
Signup and view all the answers
How are warp knitted fabrics distinctly different from weft-knitted fabrics?
How are warp knitted fabrics distinctly different from weft-knitted fabrics?
Signup and view all the answers
What aspect should be considered before starting the design process of a fashion garment?
What aspect should be considered before starting the design process of a fashion garment?
Signup and view all the answers
What characteristic of modern knitting machinery enhances textile production?
What characteristic of modern knitting machinery enhances textile production?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the primary focus of the middle section of the chapter?
What is the primary focus of the middle section of the chapter?
Signup and view all the answers
What is a key property of knitted fabrics that contributes to their versatility?
What is a key property of knitted fabrics that contributes to their versatility?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the main technology predicted to replace traditional knitting needles?
What is the main technology predicted to replace traditional knitting needles?
Signup and view all the answers
What is a 'wale' in the context of knitting?
What is a 'wale' in the context of knitting?
Signup and view all the answers
Which knitting technique is described as producing a seamless tube?
Which knitting technique is described as producing a seamless tube?
Signup and view all the answers
What potential environmental benefit is associated with the new rotor technology in knitting?
What potential environmental benefit is associated with the new rotor technology in knitting?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the distinction between flatbed knitting machines and circular knitting machines?
What is the distinction between flatbed knitting machines and circular knitting machines?
Signup and view all the answers
Which of the following knitted structures is most commonly associated with hand knitting?
Which of the following knitted structures is most commonly associated with hand knitting?
Signup and view all the answers
Which phrase best describes the future of the knitwear industry according to the provided content?
Which phrase best describes the future of the knitwear industry according to the provided content?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the main focus of complete garment technology in knitting?
What is the main focus of complete garment technology in knitting?
Signup and view all the answers
How are knitted fabrics typically characterized in relation to twist compared to woven fabrics?
How are knitted fabrics typically characterized in relation to twist compared to woven fabrics?
Signup and view all the answers
What is a significant market trend in the garment industry reflected in recent T-shirt sales?
What is a significant market trend in the garment industry reflected in recent T-shirt sales?
Signup and view all the answers
Which aspect is primarily influenced by computer technology in knitting?
Which aspect is primarily influenced by computer technology in knitting?
Signup and view all the answers
What could be a potential topic of research regarding stitch density in knitted fabrics?
What could be a potential topic of research regarding stitch density in knitted fabrics?
Signup and view all the answers
Which publication is recognized as a leading source for detailed aspects of knitting technology?
Which publication is recognized as a leading source for detailed aspects of knitting technology?
Signup and view all the answers
What technology is primarily favored for knitting acrylic yarn structures due to its versatility?
What technology is primarily favored for knitting acrylic yarn structures due to its versatility?
Signup and view all the answers
Which fibers are ideal for modern sports base layers to ensure moisture management?
Which fibers are ideal for modern sports base layers to ensure moisture management?
Signup and view all the answers
What is a key advantage of circular weft-knitted or warp knitted structures in sports apparel?
What is a key advantage of circular weft-knitted or warp knitted structures in sports apparel?
Signup and view all the answers
How has globalization impacted the knitwear industry?
How has globalization impacted the knitwear industry?
Signup and view all the answers
What is expected to characterize the retail environment of the future in knitwear?
What is expected to characterize the retail environment of the future in knitwear?
Signup and view all the answers
What is a primary disadvantage of plain structures in garment construction?
What is a primary disadvantage of plain structures in garment construction?
Signup and view all the answers
Which characteristic does rib structure possess that plain structure does not?
Which characteristic does rib structure possess that plain structure does not?
Signup and view all the answers
What innovative project has focused on creating custom-made compression garments?
What innovative project has focused on creating custom-made compression garments?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the primary use for purl structures in knitting?
What is the primary use for purl structures in knitting?
Signup and view all the answers
Which fiber is noted as the most used in knitted sports apparel?
Which fiber is noted as the most used in knitted sports apparel?
Signup and view all the answers
How do rib structures typically fit on the body?
How do rib structures typically fit on the body?
Signup and view all the answers
What advancement is predicted to drive significant growth in the knitwear market over the next decade?
What advancement is predicted to drive significant growth in the knitwear market over the next decade?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the primary reason for the high production cost of purl structures?
What is the primary reason for the high production cost of purl structures?
Signup and view all the answers
Which technology remains unrivaled in patterning and shaping capability for knitted garments?
Which technology remains unrivaled in patterning and shaping capability for knitted garments?
Signup and view all the answers
What is a challenge currently faced by innovative knitwear production technologies?
What is a challenge currently faced by innovative knitwear production technologies?
Signup and view all the answers
What is a unique feature of balanced rib structures?
What is a unique feature of balanced rib structures?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the predicted impact of the fast fashion phenomenon on future consumer preferences for knitwear?
What is the predicted impact of the fast fashion phenomenon on future consumer preferences for knitwear?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the advantage of using circular knitting machines in production?
What is the advantage of using circular knitting machines in production?
Signup and view all the answers
Which machinery is specifically designed to manufacture seamless garments?
Which machinery is specifically designed to manufacture seamless garments?
Signup and view all the answers
What trend has been observed in fashion cycles impacting the production of knitwear?
What trend has been observed in fashion cycles impacting the production of knitwear?
Signup and view all the answers
Which type of machinery is highlighted for its ability to produce complete knitted garments?
Which type of machinery is highlighted for its ability to produce complete knitted garments?
Signup and view all the answers
What type of garments traditionally used rib structures for insulation?
What type of garments traditionally used rib structures for insulation?
Signup and view all the answers
Which of the following is a feature of purl structures in terms of elasticity?
Which of the following is a feature of purl structures in terms of elasticity?
Signup and view all the answers
Which knitting structure allows for better thermal insulation when in a collapsed state?
Which knitting structure allows for better thermal insulation when in a collapsed state?
Signup and view all the answers
What type of knitting machine does Santoni produce that is known for seamless technology?
What type of knitting machine does Santoni produce that is known for seamless technology?
Signup and view all the answers
In what way can weft-knitted fabrics be enhanced visually?
In what way can weft-knitted fabrics be enhanced visually?
Signup and view all the answers
What is a distinguishing characteristic of unbalanced rib structures?
What is a distinguishing characteristic of unbalanced rib structures?
Signup and view all the answers
What are the characteristics of knitted fabrics compared to woven fabrics?
What are the characteristics of knitted fabrics compared to woven fabrics?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the primary mechanical action that differs between mechanical and hand knitting?
What is the primary mechanical action that differs between mechanical and hand knitting?
Signup and view all the answers
What term is used to describe the distance between needles in a knitting machine?
What term is used to describe the distance between needles in a knitting machine?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the term used for the vertical loops counted in knitted fabrics?
What is the term used for the vertical loops counted in knitted fabrics?
Signup and view all the answers
Which type of knitted fabric is most commonly found in retail clothing?
Which type of knitted fabric is most commonly found in retail clothing?
Signup and view all the answers
What effect does the yarn twist have on knitted fabrics?
What effect does the yarn twist have on knitted fabrics?
Signup and view all the answers
In weft knitting, how does the yarn move during the knitting process?
In weft knitting, how does the yarn move during the knitting process?
Signup and view all the answers
What challenges do weft-knitted fabrics face?
What challenges do weft-knitted fabrics face?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the characteristic structure of plain weft-knitted fabrics?
What is the characteristic structure of plain weft-knitted fabrics?
Signup and view all the answers
What produces the downward force necessary for completing the knitting cycle?
What produces the downward force necessary for completing the knitting cycle?
Signup and view all the answers
Which knitted fabric type is characterized by its stability and resistance to ladders?
Which knitted fabric type is characterized by its stability and resistance to ladders?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the appearance of the reverse side of plain knitted fabrics?
What is the appearance of the reverse side of plain knitted fabrics?
Signup and view all the answers
For which applications are ultra-lightweight (fine gauge) knitted fabrics typically used?
For which applications are ultra-lightweight (fine gauge) knitted fabrics typically used?
Signup and view all the answers
What distinguishes rib weft-knitted structures from other weft structures?
What distinguishes rib weft-knitted structures from other weft structures?
Signup and view all the answers
What was a significant change in knitwear design during the 1990s?
What was a significant change in knitwear design during the 1990s?
Signup and view all the answers
What advantage does complete garment technology offer?
What advantage does complete garment technology offer?
Signup and view all the answers
Which company introduced the Wholegarment range of machinery in 1995?
Which company introduced the Wholegarment range of machinery in 1995?
Signup and view all the answers
What limitation did early models of Wholegarment machinery face?
What limitation did early models of Wholegarment machinery face?
Signup and view all the answers
What type of programming languages were introduced by machine builders in the knitting technology?
What type of programming languages were introduced by machine builders in the knitting technology?
Signup and view all the answers
Which feature enabled the commercial viability of variable stroke or partial knitting?
Which feature enabled the commercial viability of variable stroke or partial knitting?
Signup and view all the answers
What influence did the fashion industry experience due to advancements in knitting technology in the 1990s?
What influence did the fashion industry experience due to advancements in knitting technology in the 1990s?
Signup and view all the answers
What technological advancement allows modern flatbed weft-knitting machines to control many needles individually?
What technological advancement allows modern flatbed weft-knitting machines to control many needles individually?
Signup and view all the answers
What is a significant challenge faced by designers in utilizing advanced knitting machinery?
What is a significant challenge faced by designers in utilizing advanced knitting machinery?
Signup and view all the answers
What is an expected market trend for complete garment knitting products?
What is an expected market trend for complete garment knitting products?
Signup and view all the answers
Which of the following features does the latest graphic software provide for knitwear design?
Which of the following features does the latest graphic software provide for knitwear design?
Signup and view all the answers
Which of these fabric structures is primarily used to add aesthetic value in clothing applications?
Which of these fabric structures is primarily used to add aesthetic value in clothing applications?
Signup and view all the answers
How has fast fashion impacted the development process of knitwear?
How has fast fashion impacted the development process of knitwear?
Signup and view all the answers
What does the Mach 2X and Mach 2S machine range claim to improve?
What does the Mach 2X and Mach 2S machine range claim to improve?
Signup and view all the answers
What was the significance of William Lee's invention in 1589?
What was the significance of William Lee's invention in 1589?
Signup and view all the answers
Which modification to the knitting needle was patented by Matthew Townsend in 1849?
Which modification to the knitting needle was patented by Matthew Townsend in 1849?
Signup and view all the answers
What has been a historical role of pioneering designers like Kenzo and Miyake in knitting technologies?
What has been a historical role of pioneering designers like Kenzo and Miyake in knitting technologies?
Signup and view all the answers
Which of the following is NOT one of the five general structure categories for fabrics?
Which of the following is NOT one of the five general structure categories for fabrics?
Signup and view all the answers
What was a major factor in moving knitting from a cottage industry to global production?
What was a major factor in moving knitting from a cottage industry to global production?
Signup and view all the answers
During which era did knitwear become firmly established as a fashion item in women's wardrobes?
During which era did knitwear become firmly established as a fashion item in women's wardrobes?
Signup and view all the answers
Which technological advancement allowed for simpler jacquard pattern production in flatbed machines?
Which technological advancement allowed for simpler jacquard pattern production in flatbed machines?
Signup and view all the answers
What characteristic differentiates bi-directional stretch fabrics from compression fabrics?
What characteristic differentiates bi-directional stretch fabrics from compression fabrics?
Signup and view all the answers
Which knitting machine was introduced in the 1970s, characterized by its electro/mechanical needle selection?
Which knitting machine was introduced in the 1970s, characterized by its electro/mechanical needle selection?
Signup and view all the answers
What notable change occurred in the knitting industry after the introduction of the CMS series in 1987?
What notable change occurred in the knitting industry after the introduction of the CMS series in 1987?
Signup and view all the answers
Who was responsible for the development of the Derby Rib attachment in 1759?
Who was responsible for the development of the Derby Rib attachment in 1759?
Signup and view all the answers
What was significant about the knitting developments in the 1950s?
What was significant about the knitting developments in the 1950s?
Signup and view all the answers
What was one of the first examples of a factory system worldwide, credited to the textile industry?
What was one of the first examples of a factory system worldwide, credited to the textile industry?
Signup and view all the answers
Which company introduced the glove knitting machine during the key period of knitting technology advancements?
Which company introduced the glove knitting machine during the key period of knitting technology advancements?
Signup and view all the answers
What is a significant disadvantage of flatbed knitting machines compared to circular knitting machines?
What is a significant disadvantage of flatbed knitting machines compared to circular knitting machines?
Signup and view all the answers
Which statement best describes the main feature of complete garment knitting machines?
Which statement best describes the main feature of complete garment knitting machines?
Signup and view all the answers
Which type of warp knitting machine is known for producing fabrics used in lingerie and sportswear?
Which type of warp knitting machine is known for producing fabrics used in lingerie and sportswear?
Signup and view all the answers
What is a common characteristic of fabrics produced by raschel machines?
What is a common characteristic of fabrics produced by raschel machines?
Signup and view all the answers
How do warp knitted structures differ from weft knitted structures?
How do warp knitted structures differ from weft knitted structures?
Signup and view all the answers
What provides a key functional advantage of warp knitting over weft knitting?
What provides a key functional advantage of warp knitting over weft knitting?
Signup and view all the answers
What does it mean when a fabric is described as having 'good extensibility'?
What does it mean when a fabric is described as having 'good extensibility'?
Signup and view all the answers
Which of the following best applies to the majority of fashion knitwear production?
Which of the following best applies to the majority of fashion knitwear production?
Signup and view all the answers
What limits the production capability of the simplest warp knitted structures?
What limits the production capability of the simplest warp knitted structures?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the primary difference between tricot and raschel machines in warp knitting?
What is the primary difference between tricot and raschel machines in warp knitting?
Signup and view all the answers
How are yarns supplied to each needle in a warp knitting machine?
How are yarns supplied to each needle in a warp knitting machine?
Signup and view all the answers
What is one of the main characteristics of fabrics produced from tricot machines?
What is one of the main characteristics of fabrics produced from tricot machines?
Signup and view all the answers
What kind of machines are Stoll and Shima Seiki known for innovating?
What kind of machines are Stoll and Shima Seiki known for innovating?
Signup and view all the answers
Which concept describes the capability of warp fabrics to combine properties of both woven and weft-knitted fabrics?
Which concept describes the capability of warp fabrics to combine properties of both woven and weft-knitted fabrics?
Signup and view all the answers
Which factor is essential for maintaining quality in knitted fabrics, irrespective of other variables?
Which factor is essential for maintaining quality in knitted fabrics, irrespective of other variables?
Signup and view all the answers
What is stitch density defined as?
What is stitch density defined as?
Signup and view all the answers
Which measurement is commonly specified to ensure consistent quality in the production of knitted fabrics?
Which measurement is commonly specified to ensure consistent quality in the production of knitted fabrics?
Signup and view all the answers
What method is used to manually measure yarn length from a knitted fabric?
What method is used to manually measure yarn length from a knitted fabric?
Signup and view all the answers
When producing tight-fitting garments, which knitting structure is often preferred?
When producing tight-fitting garments, which knitting structure is often preferred?
Signup and view all the answers
What is one of the desirable properties of knitted garments that has contributed to their popularity in the fashion market?
What is one of the desirable properties of knitted garments that has contributed to their popularity in the fashion market?
Signup and view all the answers
Which type of knitting structure is advantageous when a garment needs flexibility and good elastic recovery?
Which type of knitting structure is advantageous when a garment needs flexibility and good elastic recovery?
Signup and view all the answers
Which of the following fibers is mentioned as a suitable choice for fashion garments with short trend life?
Which of the following fibers is mentioned as a suitable choice for fashion garments with short trend life?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the role of tensioning yarns properly in knitting processes?
What is the role of tensioning yarns properly in knitting processes?
Signup and view all the answers
Which knitting geometry relationship is becoming less frequently used in fashion knitwear due to its complexity?
Which knitting geometry relationship is becoming less frequently used in fashion knitwear due to its complexity?
Signup and view all the answers
Which of the following is a key parameter measured to calculate the width and length of any garment panel?
Which of the following is a key parameter measured to calculate the width and length of any garment panel?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the preferred gauge to use for a fine rib structure intended for tight-fitting garments?
What is the preferred gauge to use for a fine rib structure intended for tight-fitting garments?
Signup and view all the answers
What is the primary benefit of using high-bulk acrylic in knitted garments?
What is the primary benefit of using high-bulk acrylic in knitted garments?
Signup and view all the answers
Which organization’s course length tester is utilized for fabric sample measurement?
Which organization’s course length tester is utilized for fabric sample measurement?
Signup and view all the answers
What should be considered carefully when selecting raw materials for knitted garments intended for fashion applications?
What should be considered carefully when selecting raw materials for knitted garments intended for fashion applications?
Signup and view all the answers
Study Notes
Knitwear Overview
- Knitwear has gained a significant global market share due to casual dress trends and the versatility of modern knitting machinery.
- Knitting is a versatile textile method creating intermeshing loops from yarn.
- Historically, loop formation included knotting or spool-and-pin methods, but modern fashion knitwear (weft knitting) primarily uses hand- or machine-based needle technologies.
- Hand knitting, dating back to the 15th century, is a skilled craft, while modern knitwear is produced by sophisticated computer-controlled machinery.
- William Lee's invention of the stocking frame in 1589 marked a key technological milestone.
- Two distinct knitting technologies exist (warp and weft) producing diverse fabrics for different applications.
- Knitted fabrics are generally less stable, more flexible, and have better drape than woven counterparts.
- Recent trends toward casual dress have significantly increased knitwear's popularity.
Loop Formation Process
- Mechanical loop formation differs significantly from hand knitting's complex wrist and finger movements.
- Each loop requires a specific needle, the type varying by machine.
- Loop formation involves six stages.
- Stage 1: Needle at rest position.
- Stage 2: Needle moves to the knit position.
- Stage 3: New yarn inserted into the hook.
- Stage 4: Old loop slips under latch, forcing it to close.
- Stage 5: Old loop knocks over.
- Stage 6: Takedown force completes the cycle, returning the needle to rest position.
- Yarns used for knitted fabrics have less twist compared to woven fabrics.
Knitting Terminology
- Stitches (wales) are counted horizontally, and rows (courses) are counted vertically.
- "Stitch" in industrial knitting terms refers to the type of stitch (knit, float, tuck), not the loop.
- Fabric weight varies from fine gauge (lightweight) to chunky gauge (heavyweight).
- Gauge represents needle count per unit length for needle bed.
Weft-Knitted Structures
- Most high-street knitwear is made of weft-knitted fabric.
- Weft knitting is versatile, creating a variety of structures with patterns.
- Basic weft-knitted structures include plain, rib, and purl.
- Plain: Identical looping pattern, differing appearances front and back; unstable edges.
- Rib: Face & reverse loops in the same course; balanced rib looks the same on both sides, while unbalanced ribs have a defined "face" side; highly stable edges with good elongation; thicker in collapsed state.
- Purl: Decorative structure; identical stitches alternating front/back, producing a ripple effect, good for infant/child apparel; More expensive to produce.
Weft-Knitting Machines
- Three main types of weft-knitting machines: circular, fully fashioned, and flatbed.
- A new flatbed type emerged producing seamless garments
- Most productive method is the circular knitting machine forming continuous tubes.
- Single- and double-jersey fabrics used for T-shirts & sweatshirts are often made by circular technology
- Flatbed (or rib) machines are versatile handling ribs, complex structures, diverse patterning options, and panel shaping; currently faster than in the past.
- Complete garment knitting (seamless) machines knit entire garments in one stage, eliminating waste & seams, common in designer and high street brands.
Warp-Knitted Structures
- Warp knitted structures are made from intertwined loops with crossing yarns.
- Warp machines have needles across the machine width. Each needle has an individual yarn source/guide.
- All loops in a course are formed simultaneously.
- Warp fabrics are frequently continuous sheets from filament yarns; machinery ranges from small (scarf/crochet) to wide (industrial).
- Warp knit fabrics have properties similar to woven structures (stability) or more extensibility.
- Major types are tricot & raschel machines.
- Tricot machines produce plain-type fabrics (e.g. lingerie, sportswear).
- Raschel machines produce openworks, laces, fancywork, pile fabrics, with less stretching.
Knitting Developments
- Significant technological advancements since William Lee's invention.
- Refinements include improved mechanical action for finer fabrics, alternative structure development, automated weft and warp machines.
- Introduction of computerized mechanisms, variable stroke knitting, and complete garment machines.
- Innovations resulted in sophisticated machinery, influencing design (e.g., skinny ribs).
- Computer-controlled systems are enabling production of complex patterns and shaped panels.
Quality Control
- Knitting fabric quality is influenced by factors like stitch type, yarn, fiber, and delivery friction.
- Loop length (or stitch length) measurement, essential for quality, is measured across defined numbers of stitches.
- Stich density (wales and courses/cm/in) is another key control point for ensuring accurate garment dimensions and maintaining consistent quality.
- Fabric samples are unreeved and measured using tools like HATRA testers and cross-referenced against machine reported data, to ensure consistent quality of yarn delivery.
Case Study/Design Considerations
- Knitted garments increasingly important for fashion reasons e.g., elastic recovery, drape, easy-care, thermal insulation, formability and softness.
- Design considerations for clothing should incorporate user requirements (warmth, comfort, and care) and fabric properties.
- Material choices (e.g., fibers like acrylic or polyester) impact final fabric quality and cost in relation to garment's intended use.
Future Trends
- Knitwear's continued prominence is predicted, with advancements in machinery supporting pattern and shape generation.
- Globalisation's influence on the industry is substantial, including low-cost labor opportunities.
- Future knitwear will combine advanced materials with sophisticated technology for innovative designs.
- Opportunities exist for computer-aided design (CAD) and computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) to improve garment simulations and customer experiences.
- Customisation and on-demand garment production will become more common.
Project Ideas
- Project 1: Observation of knitwear collections in stores.
- Project 2: Knitwear weight categorization.
- Project 3: Calculation of stitch density.
- Project 4: Evaluation of garments considering fitness for purpose/user requirements and materials options.
Revision Questions
- These questions cover the materials presented, relating to knitwear technologies and design principles.
Sources of Further Information
- This list identifies additional resources including books and magazines for deeper dives into specific technological and design aspects of knitwear.
Studying That Suits You
Use AI to generate personalized quizzes and flashcards to suit your learning preferences.
Description
Explore the fascinating world of knitwear, from its historical roots to modern manufacturing processes. This quiz covers the evolution of knitting techniques and the impact of casual dress trends on the knitwear market. Discover the differences between warp and weft knitting and the significance of technological advancements in this field.