Knitwear Overview and Technology

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Questions and Answers

What does Power’s (2008) work primarily contextualize?

  • Historical evolution of knitting
  • Basic weft-knitted structures (correct)
  • Trends in knitwear fashion
  • Designer techniques in haute couture

Which publication discusses the design aspects of knitwear?

  • Designing a Knitwear Collection (correct)
  • Employment in the Knitwear Industry
  • Knitwear as an Art Form
  • Advances in Apparel Production

What aspect of knitwear does Black’s work emphasize?

  • Current market trends
  • Technological advancements in knitting
  • Knitwear as an art form (correct)
  • Employment opportunities in the industry

How does Jenkyn Jones’ publication differ from traditional fashion industry texts?

<p>It separates knitwear opportunities from mainstream womenswear. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Why are historical publications considered valuable in the study of knitwear?

<p>They provide insights into knitting's versatility and resilience. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of content does Knitting International magazine provide?

<p>Information on knitting technology evolution (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is one of the focuses of Drapers magazine in relation to knitwear?

<p>Current and predicted market trends (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following best describes the significance of new technologies in modern knitwear?

<p>They have impacted fashion knitwear significantly. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What contributes to the significant share gained by knitwear in the global fashion market?

<p>The acceptability of casual dress and versatility of modern knitting machinery (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following accurately describes weft knitting?

<p>Is typically associated with hand knitting techniques. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What was one significant innovation in the knitting industry mentioned?

<p>The development of knitting machinery by William Lee (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How are warp knitted fabrics distinctly different from weft-knitted fabrics?

<p>Warp knitted fabrics are made using a single continuous yarn. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What aspect should be considered before starting the design process of a fashion garment?

<p>User requirements and preferences (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What characteristic of modern knitting machinery enhances textile production?

<p>It operates at extremely fast speeds while maintaining high quality. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary focus of the middle section of the chapter?

<p>The types of knitted fabrics and their technologies (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a key property of knitted fabrics that contributes to their versatility?

<p>The series of intermeshing loops that allows for flexibility (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the main technology predicted to replace traditional knitting needles?

<p>Rotors developed by Japanese engineers (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a 'wale' in the context of knitting?

<p>A stitch in commercial knitting (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which knitting technique is described as producing a seamless tube?

<p>Circular technology (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What potential environmental benefit is associated with the new rotor technology in knitting?

<p>Significantly less energy consumption (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the distinction between flatbed knitting machines and circular knitting machines?

<p>Flatbed machines produce flat fabric, circular machines produce tubes (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following knitted structures is most commonly associated with hand knitting?

<p>Weft knitting (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which phrase best describes the future of the knitwear industry according to the provided content?

<p>Innovation and competition in new markets (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the main focus of complete garment technology in knitting?

<p>Creating garments in their entirety (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How are knitted fabrics typically characterized in relation to twist compared to woven fabrics?

<p>They have less twist (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a significant market trend in the garment industry reflected in recent T-shirt sales?

<p>Growth in knitted garments (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which aspect is primarily influenced by computer technology in knitting?

<p>Design innovation of knitted products (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What could be a potential topic of research regarding stitch density in knitted fabrics?

<p>Calculating wales and courses per 10 cm (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which publication is recognized as a leading source for detailed aspects of knitting technology?

<p>David Spencer’s Knitting Technology (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What technology is primarily favored for knitting acrylic yarn structures due to its versatility?

<p>Flatbed technology (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which fibers are ideal for modern sports base layers to ensure moisture management?

<p>Polyester and polypropylene (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a key advantage of circular weft-knitted or warp knitted structures in sports apparel?

<p>They offer advanced properties like comfort and breathability. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How has globalization impacted the knitwear industry?

<p>It has led to a technological revolution in low-cost labor countries. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is expected to characterize the retail environment of the future in knitwear?

<p>The demand for customized alternatives tailored to consumer needs. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a primary disadvantage of plain structures in garment construction?

<p>It tends to unravel easily. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which characteristic does rib structure possess that plain structure does not?

<p>Resistance to edge curling. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What innovative project has focused on creating custom-made compression garments?

<p>Scan to Knit project (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary use for purl structures in knitting?

<p>Decorative applications. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which fiber is noted as the most used in knitted sports apparel?

<p>Polyester (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How do rib structures typically fit on the body?

<p>Tight fitting. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What advancement is predicted to drive significant growth in the knitwear market over the next decade?

<p>Development in sport and active apparel. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary reason for the high production cost of purl structures?

<p>Transferring of wales between courses. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which technology remains unrivaled in patterning and shaping capability for knitted garments?

<p>Modern computer controlled flatbed machinery (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a challenge currently faced by innovative knitwear production technologies?

<p>Lack of skilled personnel required to operate systems. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a unique feature of balanced rib structures?

<p>They contain equal number of face and reverse loops. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the predicted impact of the fast fashion phenomenon on future consumer preferences for knitwear?

<p>Consumers will seek more customized clothing options. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the advantage of using circular knitting machines in production?

<p>Continuous tubular fabric production. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which machinery is specifically designed to manufacture seamless garments?

<p>Flatbed machinery. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What trend has been observed in fashion cycles impacting the production of knitwear?

<p>A shift towards rapid capsule collections replenished every few months. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which type of machinery is highlighted for its ability to produce complete knitted garments?

<p>Flatbed machinery (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of garments traditionally used rib structures for insulation?

<p>Anglers' outwear known as 'ganseys'. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following is a feature of purl structures in terms of elasticity?

<p>They collapse in the length direction. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which knitting structure allows for better thermal insulation when in a collapsed state?

<p>Rib structures. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of knitting machine does Santoni produce that is known for seamless technology?

<p>Circular knitting machine. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

In what way can weft-knitted fabrics be enhanced visually?

<p>Introducing varying stitch types and colors. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a distinguishing characteristic of unbalanced rib structures?

<p>They are designed for visual effect. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What are the characteristics of knitted fabrics compared to woven fabrics?

<p>Less stable and more flexible (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary mechanical action that differs between mechanical and hand knitting?

<p>Movement of wrists and fingers (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What term is used to describe the distance between needles in a knitting machine?

<p>Gauge (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the term used for the vertical loops counted in knitted fabrics?

<p>Courses (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which type of knitted fabric is most commonly found in retail clothing?

<p>Weft-knitted fabrics (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What effect does the yarn twist have on knitted fabrics?

<p>Ensures flexibility (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

In weft knitting, how does the yarn move during the knitting process?

<p>Horizontally from selvage to selvage (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What challenges do weft-knitted fabrics face?

<p>Prone to pilling and laddering (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the characteristic structure of plain weft-knitted fabrics?

<p>Identical loops intermeshed together (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What produces the downward force necessary for completing the knitting cycle?

<p>Takedown force (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which knitted fabric type is characterized by its stability and resistance to ladders?

<p>Warp-knitted fabrics (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the appearance of the reverse side of plain knitted fabrics?

<p>Wave or rippled appearance (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

For which applications are ultra-lightweight (fine gauge) knitted fabrics typically used?

<p>Underwear and sporting applications (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What distinguishes rib weft-knitted structures from other weft structures?

<p>Alternating knit and purl stitches (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What was a significant change in knitwear design during the 1990s?

<p>The production of fully shaped panels using cost-effective yarns (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What advantage does complete garment technology offer?

<p>Elimination of waste and seams (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which company introduced the Wholegarment range of machinery in 1995?

<p>Shima Seiki (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What limitation did early models of Wholegarment machinery face?

<p>Too restrictive programming capabilities (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What type of programming languages were introduced by machine builders in the knitting technology?

<p>Dedicated programming languages (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which feature enabled the commercial viability of variable stroke or partial knitting?

<p>Computer control of individual needles (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What influence did the fashion industry experience due to advancements in knitting technology in the 1990s?

<p>Cost-effective production of shaped knitted panels (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What technological advancement allows modern flatbed weft-knitting machines to control many needles individually?

<p>Specialized electronics and software (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a significant challenge faced by designers in utilizing advanced knitting machinery?

<p>Limited understanding of machine capabilities (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is an expected market trend for complete garment knitting products?

<p>Gaining market share in sportswear and casual wear (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following features does the latest graphic software provide for knitwear design?

<p>Simulation of complex stitches and 3D designs (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of these fabric structures is primarily used to add aesthetic value in clothing applications?

<p>Jacquards (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How has fast fashion impacted the development process of knitwear?

<p>Decreased time to transform designs into reality (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What does the Mach 2X and Mach 2S machine range claim to improve?

<p>Higher productivity compared to earlier Wholegarment versions (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What was the significance of William Lee's invention in 1589?

<p>It was the first weft-knitting machine (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which modification to the knitting needle was patented by Matthew Townsend in 1849?

<p>Latch needle (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What has been a historical role of pioneering designers like Kenzo and Miyake in knitting technologies?

<p>Creating oversized motifs and asymmetrical designs (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following is NOT one of the five general structure categories for fabrics?

<p>Solid structures (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What was a major factor in moving knitting from a cottage industry to global production?

<p>Development of water and steam powered machinery (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

During which era did knitwear become firmly established as a fashion item in women's wardrobes?

<p>Post-1918 (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which technological advancement allowed for simpler jacquard pattern production in flatbed machines?

<p>Punched tape electronic control (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What characteristic differentiates bi-directional stretch fabrics from compression fabrics?

<p>Bi-directional stretch fabrics provide stretch in multiple directions. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which knitting machine was introduced in the 1970s, characterized by its electro/mechanical needle selection?

<p>PDE flat knitting machine (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What notable change occurred in the knitting industry after the introduction of the CMS series in 1987?

<p>Individual needle control allowed for more complex patterns. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Who was responsible for the development of the Derby Rib attachment in 1759?

<p>Jedediah Strutt (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What was significant about the knitting developments in the 1950s?

<p>Introduction of electronics to control knitting machinery (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What was one of the first examples of a factory system worldwide, credited to the textile industry?

<p>The spinning and weaving mills of Lancashire (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which company introduced the glove knitting machine during the key period of knitting technology advancements?

<p>Shima Seiki (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a significant disadvantage of flatbed knitting machines compared to circular knitting machines?

<p>They knit at a slower speed. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which statement best describes the main feature of complete garment knitting machines?

<p>They create seamless garments in one operation. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which type of warp knitting machine is known for producing fabrics used in lingerie and sportswear?

<p>Tricot machine. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is a common characteristic of fabrics produced by raschel machines?

<p>They can knit open works and fancy structures. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How do warp knitted structures differ from weft knitted structures?

<p>Warp structures are constructed from intertwined loops with zigzag yarn crossing. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What provides a key functional advantage of warp knitting over weft knitting?

<p>Higher production speeds. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What does it mean when a fabric is described as having 'good extensibility'?

<p>It can stretch significantly without breaking. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following best applies to the majority of fashion knitwear production?

<p>Flatbed machinery is predominantly used. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What limits the production capability of the simplest warp knitted structures?

<p>They are unstable when the knitting takedown is removed. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary difference between tricot and raschel machines in warp knitting?

<p>Tricot machines make only plain fabrics. (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

How are yarns supplied to each needle in a warp knitting machine?

<p>Via individual independent yarn sources. (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is one of the main characteristics of fabrics produced from tricot machines?

<p>Excellent drape and flat appearance. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What kind of machines are Stoll and Shima Seiki known for innovating?

<p>Complete garment knitting machines. (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which concept describes the capability of warp fabrics to combine properties of both woven and weft-knitted fabrics?

<p>Technological fusion of weaving and knitting. (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which factor is essential for maintaining quality in knitted fabrics, irrespective of other variables?

<p>Loop or stitch length (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is stitch density defined as?

<p>The number of wales per cm and courses per cm (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which measurement is commonly specified to ensure consistent quality in the production of knitted fabrics?

<p>Set number of wales (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What method is used to manually measure yarn length from a knitted fabric?

<p>HATRA course length tester (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

When producing tight-fitting garments, which knitting structure is often preferred?

<p>Rib structure (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is one of the desirable properties of knitted garments that has contributed to their popularity in the fashion market?

<p>Good thermal insulation (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which type of knitting structure is advantageous when a garment needs flexibility and good elastic recovery?

<p>Weft-knit structures (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following fibers is mentioned as a suitable choice for fashion garments with short trend life?

<p>High-bulk acrylic (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the role of tensioning yarns properly in knitting processes?

<p>To ensure constant yarn length delivery (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which knitting geometry relationship is becoming less frequently used in fashion knitwear due to its complexity?

<p>Ratio of wales to courses (D)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which of the following is a key parameter measured to calculate the width and length of any garment panel?

<p>Stitch density (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the preferred gauge to use for a fine rib structure intended for tight-fitting garments?

<p>10 or 12 gauge (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What is the primary benefit of using high-bulk acrylic in knitted garments?

<p>Good stretch and recovery (B)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Which organization’s course length tester is utilized for fabric sample measurement?

<p>HATRA (A)</p> Signup and view all the answers

What should be considered carefully when selecting raw materials for knitted garments intended for fashion applications?

<p>The cost of raw material (C)</p> Signup and view all the answers

Flashcards

Knitting

The process of creating a fabric by interlacing loops of yarn.

Knitwear

A textile fabric made using the interlacing of yarn loops.

Weft Knitting

A type of knitting where the loops are formed in rows and interlock with each other to create a fabric.

Warp Knitting

A type of knitting where the loops are formed in columns and are interconnected to create a fabric.

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Mechanical Loop Formation

The process of forming loops in knitting using machines.

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Properties of a knitted fabric

The unique characteristics of a knitted fabric, such as its elasticity, drape, and breathability.

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Elasticity in knitwear

The ability of a knitted fabric to stretch and return to its original shape.

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Drape in knitwear

The way a knitted fabric hangs or falls.

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Knitting Loop Formation

A process that interlocks loops of yarn to create a fabric. Each loop requires its own needle and goes through a series of steps: needle movement, yarn insertion, loop slippage, takedown force, and return to the rest position.

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Plain Structure

A knitted fabric type known for its smooth, flat surface and good drapeability. It is often used in T-shirts, dresses, and sweaters.

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Knitting Gauge

The number of stitches per inch in knitted fabric, indicating its fineness or thickness. A higher gauge indicates a finer, more lightweight fabric, while a lower gauge indicates a heavier, thicker fabric.

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Rib Structure

A knitted fabric type with alternating face and reverse loops, creating a textured, ribbed surface. It's known for its elasticity and stability.

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Purl Structure

This structure is the opposite of rib, with alternating face and reverse loops across courses creating a ripple effect. It is used mainly in babywear.

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Edge Curling in Plain Fabric

The edges of a plain knitted fabric tend to curl inwards or outwards due to the tension of the stitches.

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Plain Knit Structure

A straightforward knitted structure with identical loops intermeshed together, resulting in a smooth, even surface on one side and a rippled appearance on the other.

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Welt and Cuff Finishing

The process of finishing the edges of a knit garment using a different structure like rib or a hem to prevent unraveling.

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Elastic Recovery

The ability of a fabric to stretch and return to its original shape.

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Rib Knit Structure

A knitted structure with alternating knit and purl stitches, creating a textured, usually more elastic fabric. Rib fabrics are often used for cuffs, collars, and waistbands.

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Drapeability

The ability of a fabric to drape and flow naturally.

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Chunky Gauge Knitting

A heavier knitting structure used for outerwear sweaters, with thicker yarns and a coarser gauge; it provides warmth and durability.

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Weft-Knit Structure

A weft-knitted structure where the yarn is knitted into loops that are interlocked with each other.

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Knit Courses

The lengthwise direction of a knitted fabric, composed of rows of interlocked loops.

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Knit Wales

The width of a knitted fabric, defined by the number of stitches per inch.

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Face Loops

The loops on the front side of a knit fabric.

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Elastic Recovery

The ability of a knitted fabric to return to its original shape after being stretched or deformed.

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Reverse Loops

The loops on the back side of a knit fabric.

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Pilling

The tendency of a knitted fabric to form small balls of fibers on the surface, often due to friction during wear.

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Balanced Rib

A rib structure that has the same number of face loops and reverse loops, making both sides look the same.

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Formability

The ease with which a knitted fabric can be molded or shaped, often in the form of garments.

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Unbalanced Rib

A rib structure that has a different number of face loops and reverse loops, creating a distinct visual difference on each side.

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Drape

The tendency of a knitted fabric to drape gracefully, creating soft, flowing curves.

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Circular Knitting Machine

A type of weft-knitting machine that uses needles arranged in a circular formation to produce continuous tubes of fabric.

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Santoni Seamless Technology

A technology that produces seamless knitwear by utilizing a circular knitting machine with small diameter needles.

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Ladding

The tendency of a knitted fabric to tear or unravel easily, forming long ladder-like runs in the fabric.

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Straight Bar Frame (Cottons Patent Machines)

A type of weft-knitting machine that can produce individual panels (front, back, and sleeves) for garments.

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Openwork Fabric Structures

Fabric structures where open spaces are intentionally created, giving the fabric a lightweight and airy feel, used in items like lace and mesh.

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Inlaid Yarn Fabric Structures

Fabric structures where different color yarns are interwoven to create intricate designs, often seen in high-end apparel and interior designs.

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Double Fabric Structures

Fabric structures created by layering two or more fabrics together, resulting in a thicker, sturdier, and often more insulating material.

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Pile Fabric Structures

Fabric structures characterized by loops or tufts of yarn that create a raised surface, providing texture, warmth, and sometimes even cushioning properties.

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Fabric Structures with Spacers

Fabric structures that incorporate elements that add dimension and support, often used in technical applications like industrial textiles.

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Stoll ANV Knitting Machine

A flatbed knitting machine that allows for intricate and complex patterns, used for creating unique and stylish designs.

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Raschel Warp Knitting Machine

A type of knitting machine that can produce a variety of fabrics with different finishes and textures, including lace and openwork fabrics.

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Circular Weft Knitting

A key development in knitting technology where a single needle is used to create a full circle of fabric. This is seen in circular knitted garments.

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Bi-directional Stretch Fabrics

A technique where yarn is woven onto a loom with multiple needles, creating a flexible and stretchable fabric, often used for sporting apparel.

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Laminate Structures

Fabric structures that incorporate a layer of support, often combined with other fabrics to create waterproof or windproof garments.

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Compression Fabrics

Knitted fabrics that are specifically designed to compress and support the body, used for medical or athletic purposes.

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The Industrial Revolution in Textiles

A period of significant technological advancement in the textiles industry, marked by the rise of factory production and the use of steam powered machinery.

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The Digital Revolution in Textiles

A period where electronics and computers revolutionized knitting technology, enabling complex patterns, automatic needle control, and more efficient production.

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Complete Garment Knitting

A knitting machine type producing a complete garment in a single process, eliminating post-knitting operations except labeling and yarn end sewing.

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Warp Knitting Machine

A knitting machine type with needles extending across the machine's width, each fed by an independent yarn source, creating a continuous sheet of fabric.

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Tricot Machine

A type of warp knitting machine known for producing stable fabrics with a wide range of applications, including lingerie and sportswear.

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Raschel Machine

A type of warp knitting machine known for producing openworks, laces, jacquards, and pile fabrics, often with limited stretch.

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One Guide Bar Warp Knit Structure

A basic warp knit structure produced using one guide bar, characterized by its instability due to loop inclination.

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Plain Tricot Warp Knit Structure

The most common warp knit structure produced using two needle bars, creating a stable and widely applicable fabric.

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Locknit Warp Knit Structure

A warp knit structure made with two needle bars, offering good extensibility, cover, handle, drape, and a flat reverse side, making it popular in fashion.

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Flatbed Knitting Machine

A knitting machine type with needles arranged in a single row, producing fabrics in flat panels.

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Rib Knitting Machine

A specialized flatbed knitting machine designed for producing rib structures, commonly for cuffs and welts.

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Single-Bed Knitting Machine

A knitting machine type using a single set of needles, producing fabrics with a single loop structure.

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Double-Bed Knitting Machine

A knitting machine type using two sets of needles, producing fabrics with alternating loop structures, like ribs.

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Warp Knit Structures

Knitted structures that are created from intertwined yarn loops that cross in a zigzag pattern.

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Weft vs. Warp Knitting Yarn Orientation

The difference in yarn orientation between weft knitting and warp knitting, resulting in distinct fabric structures and properties.

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Weaving

The process of producing fabrics by interlacing yarns at right angles, creating a sturdy structure.

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Sinker

A type of needle used in flatbed knitting machines that allows the formation of loops in a row by moving up and down.

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Wholegarment Knitting

The process of knitting a garment in one continuous piece, eliminating the need for seams.

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Computerized Flatbed Weft Knitting Machine

A type of knitting machine that allows the creation of complex patterns by controlling individual needles. It can produce 3D shapes and textures.

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Short Stroke Knitting or Partial Knitting

Knitting a series of loops in a single row, creating a textured effect. This process builds on the principle of controlling individual needles.

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Individual Needle Control

The ability of a knitting machine to control individual needles, creating variations in stitch length, resulting in intricate patterns and textures.

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Knitting Programming Language

A programming language designed specifically for knitting machines, allowing creation of complex patterns and stitch sequences.

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Knitting Design Software

Software used to design and create virtual patterns for computerized flatbed knitting machines.

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Seamless Knitting

A technique that gives the illusion of a seamless design by creating a fabric structure that is not actually joined together. This reduces the amount of waste and labour involved.

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Variable Stroke Knitting

The ability of a knitting machine to adjust the length of stitches to create different textures and patterns. This technique creates the illusion of seamless knitting and is a key feature of modern knitwear designs.

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Rib Knitting

A knit stitch characterized by a series of vertical rows that create a linear, textured pattern. This stitch is popular in a range of fashion garments.

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Double Knitting

This refers to stitches made in two opposing directions, creating a textured effect. This is commonly seen in rib knit garments, creating the signature rib structure.

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Fashioning stitches

Stitches used to connect different sections of a garment, creating a more three-dimensional look.

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Straight Bar Knitting Machine

A type of knitting machine that allows the production of individual panels (parts) of a garment. These panels are then joined using seams to create a complete garment.

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Flatbed Weft Knitting Machine

A type of knitting machine that allows the production of fully shaped panels. These are essential for creating complex garment designs.

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Acrylic Yarn

A type of yarn that is often used for its versatility. This yarn is commonly used in fashion knitwear because of its affordability and range of colors and textures.

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Designing a Knitwear Collection (Donofrio-Ferrezza & Hefferen)

A publication that provides a comprehensive overview of key technological developments, stitch geometry, industry specifications, and selected knitwear designers.

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Black's Publications (2002 & 2006)

A book focusing on knitwear as an art form, comparing it to sculpture and showcasing contemporary designer knitwear.

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Jenkyn Jones' Publication (2005)

This publication details employment opportunities within the knitwear industry and highlights specific skills required for designers in this area.

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Historical Publications on Knitwear

A collection of books offering valuable insights into the flexibility, versatility, and resilience of the knitting sector throughout history. Notable authors include Wells, Gulvin, Chapman, and Barty-King.

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Knitting International Magazine

A magazine providing an archive of information related to the evolution of knitting technology, including reviews of machinery and trend exhibitions.

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Drapers Magazine

A magazine providing up-to-date information and analysis of current and predicted market trends in both the fashion and knitwear sectors.

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Stitch Length

The length of yarn used to form a single knit stitch when laid flat under a predetermined force.

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Wale Density

The number of wales (vertical columns of stitches) per unit of measurement (cm or inch).

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Course Density

The number of courses (horizontal rows of stitches) per unit of measurement (cm or inch).

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Stitch Density

A measurement that combines wale density and course density to determine the overall density of a knitted fabric.

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HATRA Course Length Tester

A device used to measure the length of a single course (row) in a knit fabric.

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Crease Shedding

The ability of a knitted fabric to resist creases or wrinkles.

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Easy-Care

The ease with which a knitted fabric can be cared for, including washing and ironing.

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Thermal Insulation

The ability of a knitted fabric to retain heat.

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Softness

The softness or smoothness of a knitted fabric to the touch.

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Flexibility

The flexibility or bendability of a knitted fabric.

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Texture and Pattern

The ability to combine different textures and patterns in a knitted fabric for visual or functional effects.

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Breathability in Knitwear

The ability of a knitted fabric to allow air to pass through it, influencing its breathability and comfort.

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Sports Base Layer

A type of knitwear used as a base layer for sportswear, designed to wick moisture away from the skin and provide comfort.

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Polyester for Sportswear

A synthetic fiber offering moisture-wicking, quick-drying properties, often used in sportswear.

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Polypropylene for Sportswear

A synthetic fiber offering moisture-wicking, quick-drying properties, often used in sportswear.

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Circular Weft Knitwear

A type of knitwear that creates a seamless garment, offering comfort and a smooth surface.

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Warp Knitwear

A type of knitwear with a unique visual appearance and texture created by loops interlacing vertically.

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Technology in Knitwear

The use of advanced technology in the design and production of knitted fabrics, like 3D simulations and customization software.

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Fast Fashion Cycle

The trend of increasingly frequent fashion cycles with new products released every few weeks.

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Study Notes

Knitwear Overview

  • Knitwear has gained a significant global market share due to casual dress trends and the versatility of modern knitting machinery.
  • Knitting is a versatile textile method creating intermeshing loops from yarn.
  • Historically, loop formation included knotting or spool-and-pin methods, but modern fashion knitwear (weft knitting) primarily uses hand- or machine-based needle technologies.
  • Hand knitting, dating back to the 15th century, is a skilled craft, while modern knitwear is produced by sophisticated computer-controlled machinery.
  • William Lee's invention of the stocking frame in 1589 marked a key technological milestone.
  • Two distinct knitting technologies exist (warp and weft) producing diverse fabrics for different applications.
  • Knitted fabrics are generally less stable, more flexible, and have better drape than woven counterparts.
  • Recent trends toward casual dress have significantly increased knitwear's popularity.

Loop Formation Process

  • Mechanical loop formation differs significantly from hand knitting's complex wrist and finger movements.
  • Each loop requires a specific needle, the type varying by machine.
  • Loop formation involves six stages.
    • Stage 1: Needle at rest position.
    • Stage 2: Needle moves to the knit position.
    • Stage 3: New yarn inserted into the hook.
    • Stage 4: Old loop slips under latch, forcing it to close.
    • Stage 5: Old loop knocks over.
    • Stage 6: Takedown force completes the cycle, returning the needle to rest position.
  • Yarns used for knitted fabrics have less twist compared to woven fabrics.

Knitting Terminology

  • Stitches (wales) are counted horizontally, and rows (courses) are counted vertically.
  • "Stitch" in industrial knitting terms refers to the type of stitch (knit, float, tuck), not the loop.
  • Fabric weight varies from fine gauge (lightweight) to chunky gauge (heavyweight).
    • Gauge represents needle count per unit length for needle bed.

Weft-Knitted Structures

  • Most high-street knitwear is made of weft-knitted fabric.
  • Weft knitting is versatile, creating a variety of structures with patterns.
  • Basic weft-knitted structures include plain, rib, and purl.
    • Plain: Identical looping pattern, differing appearances front and back; unstable edges.
    • Rib: Face & reverse loops in the same course; balanced rib looks the same on both sides, while unbalanced ribs have a defined "face" side; highly stable edges with good elongation; thicker in collapsed state.
    • Purl: Decorative structure; identical stitches alternating front/back, producing a ripple effect, good for infant/child apparel; More expensive to produce.

Weft-Knitting Machines

  • Three main types of weft-knitting machines: circular, fully fashioned, and flatbed.
  • A new flatbed type emerged producing seamless garments
  • Most productive method is the circular knitting machine forming continuous tubes.
  • Single- and double-jersey fabrics used for T-shirts & sweatshirts are often made by circular technology
  • Flatbed (or rib) machines are versatile handling ribs, complex structures, diverse patterning options, and panel shaping; currently faster than in the past.
  • Complete garment knitting (seamless) machines knit entire garments in one stage, eliminating waste & seams, common in designer and high street brands.

Warp-Knitted Structures

  • Warp knitted structures are made from intertwined loops with crossing yarns.
  • Warp machines have needles across the machine width. Each needle has an individual yarn source/guide.
  • All loops in a course are formed simultaneously.
  • Warp fabrics are frequently continuous sheets from filament yarns; machinery ranges from small (scarf/crochet) to wide (industrial).
  • Warp knit fabrics have properties similar to woven structures (stability) or more extensibility.
  • Major types are tricot & raschel machines.
  • Tricot machines produce plain-type fabrics (e.g. lingerie, sportswear).
  • Raschel machines produce openworks, laces, fancywork, pile fabrics, with less stretching.

Knitting Developments

  • Significant technological advancements since William Lee's invention.
  • Refinements include improved mechanical action for finer fabrics, alternative structure development, automated weft and warp machines.
  • Introduction of computerized mechanisms, variable stroke knitting, and complete garment machines.
  • Innovations resulted in sophisticated machinery, influencing design (e.g., skinny ribs).
  • Computer-controlled systems are enabling production of complex patterns and shaped panels.

Quality Control

  • Knitting fabric quality is influenced by factors like stitch type, yarn, fiber, and delivery friction.
  • Loop length (or stitch length) measurement, essential for quality, is measured across defined numbers of stitches.
  • Stich density (wales and courses/cm/in) is another key control point for ensuring accurate garment dimensions and maintaining consistent quality.
  • Fabric samples are unreeved and measured using tools like HATRA testers and cross-referenced against machine reported data, to ensure consistent quality of yarn delivery.

Case Study/Design Considerations

  • Knitted garments increasingly important for fashion reasons e.g., elastic recovery, drape, easy-care, thermal insulation, formability and softness.
  • Design considerations for clothing should incorporate user requirements (warmth, comfort, and care) and fabric properties.
  • Material choices (e.g., fibers like acrylic or polyester) impact final fabric quality and cost in relation to garment's intended use.
  • Knitwear's continued prominence is predicted, with advancements in machinery supporting pattern and shape generation.
  • Globalisation's influence on the industry is substantial, including low-cost labor opportunities.
  • Future knitwear will combine advanced materials with sophisticated technology for innovative designs.
  • Opportunities exist for computer-aided design (CAD) and computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) to improve garment simulations and customer experiences.
  • Customisation and on-demand garment production will become more common.

Project Ideas

  • Project 1: Observation of knitwear collections in stores.
  • Project 2: Knitwear weight categorization.
  • Project 3: Calculation of stitch density.
  • Project 4: Evaluation of garments considering fitness for purpose/user requirements and materials options.

Revision Questions

  • These questions cover the materials presented, relating to knitwear technologies and design principles.

Sources of Further Information

  • This list identifies additional resources including books and magazines for deeper dives into specific technological and design aspects of knitwear.

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