Handloom Weaving Techniques and Loom Types

The lengthwise threads that run the length of the fabric.

The crosswise threads that run the width of the fabric, interlacing with the warp threads.

A frame that holds the warp yarns taut and under tension during weaving.

A device on the loom that controls the rise and fall of the warp threads. Composed of an upper and lower bar with heddles.

Small loops attached to the shafts that the warp threads are threaded through.

A pivoted frame holding the reed, used for spacing the warp yarns and beating the weft into place.

A slotted frame attached to the batten, used to space the warp yarns and to compress the weft threads into the fabric.

A type of weaving where two sets of warp yarns are interlaced to create a thicker, more durable fabric.

A woven fabric structure where groups of warp or weft threads interlace in an opposite way to their adjacent groups, creating openings in the cloth.

A weave where two layers of cloth are interlaced, creating a thicker, often reversible fabric.

The interlacing of the two layers of fabric in a double weave can be done in various ways, such as interlacing small amounts of yarns from the lower cloth with yarns from the top cloth.

A weave structure that creates a honeycomb-like appearance with hollows and ridges formed by the warp and weft yarns.

Weaves produced on a Jacquard loom, allowing complex figured designs and patterns.

A type of Jacquard weave fabric known for its subtle patterns created by different light reflections on the fabric.

A type of Jacquard weave fabric with a satin-like surface and long floats.

A type of Jacquard weave fabric with a raised, embossed pattern that resembles tapestry.

A type of Jacquard weave fabric where the design is created by interlacing different colored yarns.

The quality and durability of Damask fabrics depend on the yarn count. Fine-yarn damask is less durable due to the long floats.

A fabric structure with a distinct diagonal line created by the weft yarn floating over warp yarns, typically using four or more shafts.

A type of twill weave where the diagonal twill line changes direction intermittently, forming a zigzag pattern.

A fabric structure where weft yarns are dominant on the face, creating a smooth, lustrous surface, often with a sheen.

A type of plain weave with an even number of warp and weft yarns interlacing, resulting in a fabric with no distinguishable face or back.

The number of warp yarns per inch on a loom.

A type of plain weave where the number of warp and weft yarns are unequal, resulting in fabrics with either a warp- or weft-faced appearance.

A fabric structure where two or more adjacent warp yarns are controlled by the same shaft and two or more weft yarns pass through the same shed, creating a pattern resembling a basket weave.

Fabric structures that are developed from basic weaves, often adding complexity or special effects.

A type of open-weave fabric that resembles lace or gauze, created by interlacing warp and weft threads in a specific pattern.

A weft yarn that passes through the shed of the loom, creating a horizontal line in the fabric.

The process of pushing the newly inserted weft yarn against the previously woven fabric with a reed, securing it in place.

A framework on a loom holding warp yarns, often divided into multiple shafts.

The horizontal yarns in a fabric structure.

The vertical yarns in a fabric structure.

The density or thickness of a yarn.

The process of attaching warp yarns to the loom, creating even tension across the width.

Documentation used to recreate the structure of a woven fabric. It details the arrangement of warp threads, heddle threading, shaft lifting, and reed sleying.

A grid-based paper used to document the weaving process, showing the arrangement of warp and weft threads.

A diagram showing the order in which individual warp threads are threaded through the heddles of the shafts.

A diagram illustrating the sequence of raising and lowering shafts to create different weave structures and patterns.

A diagram documenting the placement and arrangement of warp threads within the reed.

A system for organizing the warp threads on the loom shafts, impacting the resulting weave pattern.

The most fundamental draft, where threads are drawn onto successive shafts in a continuous sequence.

A draft where warp threads are drawn straight, then reversed to create a distinctive pattern.

A draft where warp threads are interwoven in a non-linear pattern, creating a complex, often decorative design.

The way warp and weft threads interlace, creating a fabric's structure.

A fabric or weave where the warp and weft yarn counts are equal, resulting in balanced strength and drape.

A fabric or weave with significantly more warp or weft yarn, impacting texture and drape.

Basic weave structures, such as plain, twill, and satin, serve as foundational building blocks for more complex weaves.

A type of loom that is easy to use but limited to creating plain-weave fabrics.

A loom that can create a variety of weave structures, up to 16 shafts, and is suitable for smaller items like scarves and cushion covers.

A loom with pedals that allow for faster weaving by using foot power to raise and lower shafts.

A type of floor loom where the shafts are connected to lams or marches, which are supported under the shaft. This helps to lift the shafts evenly for efficient weaving.

A loom fitted with a device that allows for rapid changes in shaft combinations for more intricate weave structures. This device uses pegs arranged in lags to select which shafts are lifted.

A loom that is controlled by a computer and uses software to set the warp yarn positions for various weave structures. This enables fast and versatile weaving.

A loom designed for intricate patterns and weave structures, using individual heddles controlled by a Jacquard mechanism. This mechanism was once controlled by punched cards, but is now primarily controlled by microcomputer systems.

The process of preparing the warp threads (the lengthwise threads) for weaving, including ensuring they are the correct length and tension, and are arranged in the desired order.

The yarn used for the lengthwise threads of a woven fabric.

The yarn used for the crosswise threads of a woven fabric.

The process of determining the total number of warp yarns needed for a desired length and width of fabric, accounting for any necessary extra yarn for waste.

A plain weave structure where the warp yarns are spaced evenly apart, resulting in a simple, unpatterned fabric.

The number of warp ends needed per inch of cloth is determined by wrapping single warp threads around a piece of card until it's covered by 1 inch, then counting the number of threads within that inch.

To calculate the total number of warp ends needed, multiply the number of warp ends per inch by the desired width of the cloth.

Additional warp ends are added to create a selvedge, a finished edge of the cloth, typically half an inch wide.

A warping frame or mill is used to wind warp yarns at tension, creating a long, organized set of threads ready for weaving.

A contrasting color yarn is inserted under and over warp yarns at regular intervals to help count the warp threads.

Ties of contrasting yarn are placed around the warp cross sections at both ends of the frame to mark the ends of the warp.

A chain is created by looping the top end of the warp through itself, forming a continuous loop that makes the warp easier to handle.

The back stick secures the lower cross of the warp to the back beam and helps maintain tension.

The raddle is a tool used to space the warp threads at regular intervals, ensuring even spacing for weaving.

The warp end loops are attached to the back beam apron, which is part of the back beam assembly.

The process of winding the warp onto the back beam, creating a continuous section of yarn for weaving.

Flat sticks and thin paper are used during beaming to prevent the warp yarns from sticking together and ensure even tension.

Sleying is the process of placing spaced warp ends through the dents of the reed, guiding the warp for weaving.