Dressmaking: Tools, Materials, and Techniques

Dressmaking

• Dressmakers are important in society because humans wear clothing to cover and protect their bodies and to express themselves.
• Dressmaking as an industry helps the nation because everyone needs clothing like dresses, blouses, and shirts.
• Dressmakers supply the demand for the populace, and understanding their importance is key.
• Dressmaking is defined as the process of sewing clothes and dresses in a beautiful way from fabric.
• Dressmakers usually sew clothing for women, while tailors cater to men, but this depends on training.
• Both dressmakers and tailors should be able to sew clothes for both males and females because they have different body shapes that require different techniques in sewing.
• Quality tools and equipment are needed to satisfy customers and make work easier.

Classification of materials

Measuring Tools

• Some measuring tools include:
  • Measuring tape: used for body measurements, non-stretchable, with 150 cm and 60-inch sides.
  • Sewing gauges: used for small hem areas and short distances, six-inch ruler with a slider.
  • Rulers: used to connect two points when drafting patterns, 12 inches long made of wood or plastic.
  • Meter sticks/yard sticks: used to measure cloth, marked in centimeters and millimeters, made of wood or steel.

Drafting tools

• Drafting tools include: -L-square: used for perpendicular lines and parallel lines, has a 90-degree angle, long arm measurements of 1-24, 1-12, 1-6, 1-3, and 2-3, short arm measurements of 1-32, 1-16, 1-8, 1-4 and 1-2
  • Hip curve: curved stick forming hipline in areas with curved section or parts, made of metal with calibration on both sides
  • French curve: used to shape the neckline, armholes, and collars during pattern drafting or cutting fabric

Cutting tools

• Cutting tools include:
  • Shears: used for cutting fabric, paper, and materials.
    • Cutting shears: for cutting fabrics, straight blades, 7-12 inches long, stainless steel.
    • Pinking shears: cut edge of seam allowance of fabric that does not ravel, zigzag edge, decorative materials.
    • Scalloping shears: cut parts of garments, has scallop blades.
  • Scissors: cut hanging threads, excess fabrics. trim hair made of plastic and metal.
  • Buttonhole scissors: special scissors for buttonholes, square shape blades.
  • Embroidery scissors: cut fine cloth and thread, shape pointed, 4-5 inches long.
  • Seam ripper: cut off stitches, care to prevent cloth damage,

Marking tools

• Marking tools include:
  • Tailors chalk: mark fabric and pattern paper, assorted colors, markings removable by brushing.
  • Tracing wheel: trace lines in pattern, serrated edge produces dots, smooth edge solid line.
  • Dressmaker's carbon paper: waxed carbon paper transfers marking to fabric, different instructions.

Sewing aids

• Sewing aids include:
  • Pin: fasten fabrics, color rounded head or steel head.
  • Pin cushion: hold pins and needles for safekeeping.
  • Hand needles: temporary stitches and hemming, varied sizes
  • Thimble: protect finger from needle, placed on middle finger.
  • Threader: insert thread to needle eye, handle made of aluminum.

Body Measurements for apparels

• Success of a dressmaker is determined by the customer satisfaction.
• Accurate body measurements are important.
• Measurements include:
  • Shoulder: shoulder tip to shoulder tip across the nape.
  • Length of shirt: nape down to desired length.
  • Bust: around fullest part of the bust with two fingers inserted.
  • Waist: around the fullest part of the waist.
  • Hip: around the fullest part of the hips.
  • Chest: measure 4" downward from shoulder point around chest.
  • Bust Height: shoulder base neck down to bust point.
  • Length of sleeve: shoulder tip point to the desired length.
  • Short sleeve circumference: measure around arm at short sleeve length.
  • Full bodice length: shoulder base neck to the waistline.
• Measurements depend on the dressmaker's competence and PMR to register client’s measurements for future reference.
• An assistant to record measurements is advisable.

Taking Body Measurements

• Stand straight, remove pocket items, wear a fitted garment, and use a soft, flexible tape measure.
• Tie a string around the waistline for reference, measure vertically or horizontally, and allow the tape measure to hang freely.

Elements and Principles of Design in Dressmaking

• Clothes protect from the environment, emphasize good points, and hide imperfections.

Line

• Line, is the simplest element of design.
  • Outline: the outer edge of the design. Style line: divides space using belts, ruffles, seams, color lines, or pockets.

Form/ Shape

• Silhouette is the most obvious visual element.
• Form: shapes are round, square, triangle, rectangle, oblong.

Texture

• Texture refers to the surface quality, affects dress design.
• Rough bulky fabric increases size, smooth decreases it.
• Soft wool effect differs from satin gloss.

Color

• Most essential element, attracts attention, impacts feelings.
• Black/dark/gray makes figures slimmer.
• Plain color: slim figure.
• Large prints undesirable for slim figures.

Principle of design

• A good outfit considers elements, proportion, balance, harmony, emphasis, and rhythm.

Proportion

• Proportion refers to the relationship of parts, and unity exists if size/amounts relate well. Small print for small body, proportionate elements.

Balance

• Symmetrical: sides mirror each other.
• Assymetrical: sides are different for dramatic formal wear.

Occupational Health and Safety

• The industry or studio has hazards, and the dust from the fabric can be inhaled.
• Protect health and prevent injury.

Equipment Storage

• Equipment should be placed in secure areas like locked drawers and cupboards.
• Scissors, rotary cutters, needles, safety pins, and other equipment should be kept locked, especially if there are kids around.
• The shears used for cutting fabrics only.
• Broken needles and pins must be disposed of properly using a covered container.

Sewing area

• Organized sewing space is key for freedom of moving around.
• Hanging things is not advisable.
• There are many benefits of general housekeeping and tidying up before leaving a work post.
• There is danger from liquid spills and fire accidents so no eating or drinking it the vicinity.
• Cords & plugs be set up away from floor under tables around corners.
• Taking a short break for snacks is advisable rather than allowing everyone to eat in the sewing area.

Personal safety

• Injuries may occur from long hours of bending and settling down may cause pain.
• Prevent back pain, headache, fatigue by using the sewing rules.

Ergonomics

• Well-written ergonomics improve the workspace, and reduce hazards that contribute to CTD which is developed through a well-written ergonomic plan of the company, adjustable work tables and sewing machines

Clothing & Hair

• There are important rules to consider for clothing, and securing long hair.
• Avoid loose or accessories, wearing something comfortable and semi fitted to the body.
• Remove any obstructions and tie back long hair.
• Closed shoes should always be worn when moving around or cutting fabric.
• Awareness of pin is key to avoid damage. Never put pins in mouth, and its safe to use it.

Hazards

• Include cuts injuries and finger injuries.
• There may be improper lifting procedure, and eye strain due to poor lighting.
• Follow safety procedures by the teacher. No using a machine if you are untrained, Read sheet with 100% score.
• Clean workplace and check equipment as well.

Operating Procedure

• Do not have unauthorized people around you, and only one operator operating work at that time.
• If you are sewing never have anyone touch operate your sewing machine. Remove neckties and long sleeve.
• When adjusting the foot switch off the power. Do not race the machine. Observe care, do not run machine over pins, and have lever in up position. Do not push or move the fabrics as the machine should do all the fabric work.