Color Theory Basics

Color Theory

• Hue: Pure color differentiating one from another (e.g., red vs. blue).
• Intensity: Vividness or brightness of a color.
• Value: Lightness or darkness of a color.
• Tint: Adding white to a color (highest value).
• Shade: Adding black to a color (lowest value).
• Tone: Adding gray to a color (middle value).
• Primary Colors: Red, blue, yellow.
• Secondary Colors: Orange, green, violet.
• Complementary Colors: Colors opposite each other on the color wheel (e.g., red and green).
• Cool Hues: Blue-based colors like blue, violet, and green.
• Warm Hues: Yellow-based colors like red, orange, and peach.
• Skin Complexion Descriptors:
  • Ruddy: Red or flushed appearance.
  • Sallow: Yellowish or pale appearance.
• Best/Worst Colors for Skin Tones:
  • Warm Undertones (Peach/Golden): Peaches, corals, golden browns, rusts work well.
  • Cool Undertones (Bluish-Pink, Olive): Blues, violets, cherry reds, and fuchsias are flattering.
  • Neutral Colors: Suited for almost anyone, as they aren't strongly blue or yellow-based.

Preparing the Canvas

• Undertone vs. Overtone:
  • Undertone: Subtle hue beneath the surface (e.g., warm, cool, neutral) that doesn't change.
  • Overtone: Surface skin color that can change with seasons or conditions (e.g., redness, tanning).
• Swatching/Testing Foundation:
  • Best Areas: Neck or jawline.
  • Avoid testing on: Wrists, hands, or forehead.
• Order of Application:
  • Primer/Moisturizer.
  • Skin Tone Correctors (optional).
  • Foundation.
  • Concealer (before or after foundation).
  • Powder.
• Objectives of Foundation:
  • Protect the skin (often contains sunscreen).
  • Even out skin tone.
  • Hide imperfections.
  • Create a base for makeup.

Skin Tone Correctors

• Green: Cancels redness (acne or rosacea).
• Pink: Brightens dull complexions.
• Lavender: Neutralizes sallowness.
• Yellow/Orange: Corrects blue or greenish under-eye darkness.
• Application Tips:
  • For Asian or dark skin tones, always mix with foundation.
  • Can be used before foundation or mixed with it for Caucasian skin.

Concealers

• Has higher pigment concentration than foundation.
• Available in various types (pot, stick, tube).
• Uses: Hiding dark circles, scars, pigmentation, and skin conditions.
• Application Tips:
  • Apply in a stippling motion (pat to blend).
  • Yellow undertones are best for under-eye darkness.
  • Use "Hollywood V Technique" for shaping the face.

Contouring & Highlighting

• Main Objectives:
  • Highlighting (Matte or iridescent): Brings features forward.
  • Contouring (Matte only): Pushes areas back to create depth.
  • Sculpting: The Combination of both techniques.
  • Common Uses: Correcting facial proportions (e.g., short forehead, receding chin, long nose), Enhancing natural bone structure (cheekbones, jawline, nose, etc.).

Bones of the Face & Corrective Techniques

• Facial bone structure:
  • Face consists of 14 bones.
  • 13 bones are connected, preventing movement between them.
  • Mandible (lower jaw) is the only movable facial bone.
• Key Facial Bones:
  • Zygomatic (cheekbones): Essential for contouring.
  • Mandible (jawbone): Helps define jawline contour.
  • Orbital (eye sockets): Influences eye makeup corrections.
  • Temporal (temples): Can be contoured for a slimmer face effect.

Facial Proportions & Zones

• Three Zones of the Face:
  • Frontal Zone (Superior/Frontal): Hairline to eyebrows.
  • Middle Zone (Median/Sensitive): Eyebrows to nose base.
  • Lower Zone (Inferior/Instinctive): Nose base to chin.
• Facial Profile Types: Straight, convex, concave.
• Oval Face Proportions: Width = 5 eye lengths.

Blush Application

• Purpose: Designed to give a healthy glow and serve other purposes.
• General Guidelines:
  • Apply from the outer cheek toward the center.
  • Use imaginary lines from pupils and the base of the nose to determine placement.
  • Application varies based on face shape (long/narrow, short/round, square, heart, pear).

Lighting & Makeup

• Different light sources affect makeup perception.
• Adjust color choices accordingly.

Eye Makeup & Corrections

• 5 Points of Eye Analysis: Size, shape, spacing, balance.
• Corrective Eye Makeup Techniques:
  • Close-Set Eyes: Light shades inside, dark outside, extend liner outward.
  • Wide-Set Eyes: Dark shades inside, light outside, bring brows closer.
  • Deep-Set Eyes: Light on lids, dark in crease, avoid upper liner.
  • Protruding Eyes: Matte, dark shades, minimal shimmer.
  • Hooded Eyes: Dark on hood, highlight brow bone.

Eyebrows & Corrections

• 3 Key Brow Points: Start, arch, end.
• Corrections: Variations based on nose shape and brow shape.

Key Qualities of a Successful Makeup Artist

• Artistic Skill: Ability to enhance features.
• Client Engagement: Knowledge of trends & product recommendations.
• Observation Skills: Assessing client's best features, skin type, tone, face shape.