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Questions and Answers
What are the two main categories of coastal processes?
Destructive waves are beach builders.
False
What are the three factors that determine the height and strength of a wave?
The fetch, the amount of time the wind blows, and the strength of the wind
The movement of water up the beach is called the _______________.
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Match the following types of waves with their characteristics:
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What happens to a wave as it approaches the coast and enters shallower water?
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Study Notes
Coastal Processes
- Coasts are an open system with inputs (sediment), transfers (longshore drift), stores (beach), and outputs (water)
- Coastal processes are divided into two parts: marine processes (offshore, water-based) and terrestrial processes (onshore, land-based)
Wave Action
- Waves are marine processes that erode, transport, and deposit material
- Waves are formed by winds blowing over the surface of the sea
- The height and strength of a wave depend on three factors:
- Fetch
- The amount of time the wind blows
- The strength of the wind
- The greater the strength, time, and fetch of the wind, the larger the wave
Wave Characteristics
- As a wave approaches the coast and enters shallower water, friction from the sea bed causes the wave to lean forward and eventually crest and break onto the beach
- The movement of water up the beach is called the swash, and the return movement is the backwash
Types of Waves
- There are two types of waves:
- Destructive waves: erode the beach
- Constructive waves: are beach builders
Comparison of Wave Types
- Constructive waves:
- Swash: weak
- Backwash: weak
- Wavelength: long with low height
- Frequency: low (6-8 per minute)
- Type of beach: sandy, depositional
- Destructive waves:
- Swash: strong
- Backwash: strong
- Wavelength: short with high height
- Frequency: high (10-12 per minute)
- Type of beach: shingle, erosional
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Description
Learn about the coastal processes that shape our coastlines, including wave action, erosion, and more. Understand the inputs, transfers, and outputs of this open system.
