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Questions and Answers
What are the two main categories of coastal processes?
What are the two main categories of coastal processes?
Destructive waves are beach builders.
Destructive waves are beach builders.
False
What are the three factors that determine the height and strength of a wave?
What are the three factors that determine the height and strength of a wave?
The fetch, the amount of time the wind blows, and the strength of the wind
The movement of water up the beach is called the _______________.
The movement of water up the beach is called the _______________.
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Match the following types of waves with their characteristics:
Match the following types of waves with their characteristics:
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What happens to a wave as it approaches the coast and enters shallower water?
What happens to a wave as it approaches the coast and enters shallower water?
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Study Notes
Coastal Processes
- Coasts are an open system with inputs (sediment), transfers (longshore drift), stores (beach), and outputs (water)
- Coastal processes are divided into two parts: marine processes (offshore, water-based) and terrestrial processes (onshore, land-based)
Wave Action
- Waves are marine processes that erode, transport, and deposit material
- Waves are formed by winds blowing over the surface of the sea
- The height and strength of a wave depend on three factors:
- Fetch
- The amount of time the wind blows
- The strength of the wind
- The greater the strength, time, and fetch of the wind, the larger the wave
Wave Characteristics
- As a wave approaches the coast and enters shallower water, friction from the sea bed causes the wave to lean forward and eventually crest and break onto the beach
- The movement of water up the beach is called the swash, and the return movement is the backwash
Types of Waves
- There are two types of waves:
- Destructive waves: erode the beach
- Constructive waves: are beach builders
Comparison of Wave Types
- Constructive waves:
- Swash: weak
- Backwash: weak
- Wavelength: long with low height
- Frequency: low (6-8 per minute)
- Type of beach: sandy, depositional
- Destructive waves:
- Swash: strong
- Backwash: strong
- Wavelength: short with high height
- Frequency: high (10-12 per minute)
- Type of beach: shingle, erosional
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Description
Learn about the coastal processes that shape our coastlines, including wave action, erosion, and more. Understand the inputs, transfers, and outputs of this open system.
