Coastal Geomorphology: Shoreline and Coastal Environments

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What is the vertical distance from the trough to the crest of a wave called?

Wave Height (correct)

Whitecaps

Wavelength

Wave Period

Which term refers to the depth at which energy rapidly diminishes below the surface of circular wave motion?

Swash

Wave Base (correct)

Trough

Crest

What causes changes in water levels along coasts due to gravitational interaction between celestial bodies?

Wind

Circular Orbital Motion

Tides (correct)

Whitecaps

During which type of tides are the high tides higher than normal and occur every 14–75 days when the Moon and the Sun are aligned?

Spring tides Signup and view all the answers

What is the turbulent water created by breaking waves known as?

Surf Signup and view all the answers

Which part of a wave represents the top part?

Crest Signup and view all the answers

What is the area between the lowest tide level and the highest elevation on land affected by storm waves called?

Shore Signup and view all the answers

Which coastal landform is characterized by a relatively flat area composed of sand adjacent to coastal dunes or cliffs?

Berm Signup and view all the answers

What is the wet sloping surface from the berm to the shoreline called?

Beach Face Signup and view all the answers

Which zone is seaward of the nearshore zone?

Offshore Zone Signup and view all the answers

What term refers to energy travelling along the interface between the ocean and atmosphere?

Waves Signup and view all the answers

Which area is landward of the high-tide shoreline and is dry, only affected by waves during storms?

Backshore Signup and view all the answers

What type of sediment is mostly found on pebble beaches?

Pebbles Signup and view all the answers

Where are sand beaches most prevalent?

Along tropical coasts Signup and view all the answers

What is the main source of sediment for coastal sand dunes?

Beach sediment blown by wind Signup and view all the answers

'Estuaries are transition zones between which two bodies of water?'

Rivers and oceans Signup and view all the answers

'Where are tidal flats exposed?'

At low tide Signup and view all the answers

'What is the main reason why sand beaches are prevalent along tropical coasts?'

River sediment deposits Signup and view all the answers

What environmental factors contribute to the gradual breakdown of coastal rocks and landforms?

Wind, rain, and sunlight Signup and view all the answers

Which coastal process poses challenges to coastal areas due to climate change?

Thermal expansion of seawater Signup and view all the answers

Where is limestone shoreline weathering observed at?

Asan Point, War in the Pacific National Historical Park, Guam Signup and view all the answers

What historic resources are threatened due to sea level rise in the Pacific islands?

Fishponds Signup and view all the answers

Which type of environment is most significantly impacted by saltwater inundation, according to the text?

Historic masonry structures Signup and view all the answers

What are beaches considered as in terms of sediment accumulation along coasts?

Most significant accumulations of sediments Signup and view all the answers

What drives ocean currents?

Temperature gradients and the Earth's rotation Signup and view all the answers

Coastal Geomorphology: Shoreline and Coastal Environments

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Questions and Answers

What is the vertical distance from the trough to the crest of a wave called?

Which term refers to the depth at which energy rapidly diminishes below the surface of circular wave motion?

What causes changes in water levels along coasts due to gravitational interaction between celestial bodies?

During which type of tides are the high tides higher than normal and occur every 14–75 days when the Moon and the Sun are aligned?

What is the turbulent water created by breaking waves known as?

Which part of a wave represents the top part?

What is the area between the lowest tide level and the highest elevation on land affected by storm waves called?

Which coastal landform is characterized by a relatively flat area composed of sand adjacent to coastal dunes or cliffs?

What is the wet sloping surface from the berm to the shoreline called?

Which zone is seaward of the nearshore zone?

What term refers to energy travelling along the interface between the ocean and atmosphere?

Which area is landward of the high-tide shoreline and is dry, only affected by waves during storms?

What type of sediment is mostly found on pebble beaches?

Where are sand beaches most prevalent?

What is the main source of sediment for coastal sand dunes?

'Estuaries are transition zones between which two bodies of water?'

'Where are tidal flats exposed?'

'What is the main reason why sand beaches are prevalent along tropical coasts?'

What environmental factors contribute to the gradual breakdown of coastal rocks and landforms?

Which coastal process poses challenges to coastal areas due to climate change?

Where is limestone shoreline weathering observed at?

What historic resources are threatened due to sea level rise in the Pacific islands?

Which type of environment is most significantly impacted by saltwater inundation, according to the text?

What are beaches considered as in terms of sediment accumulation along coasts?

What drives ocean currents?

Which type of currents are produced by waves near the shore?

What is the main cause of coastal erosion?

What type of landforms can be created due to coastal deposition?

Which currents flow perpendicularly to the beach fed by longshore currents?

How are rip currents formed?

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