18 Questions
What causes the rock to weaken further as waves retreat?
The release of compressed air
Which coastal process involves the downslope movement of rocks and soil under the influence of gravity?
Slumping
What type of sediment bounces along the sea bed, for example, sand and silt?
Saltation
When does sediment get deposited by the sea?
When waves retreat
What coastal process involves material moving along a flat surface, usually a bedding plane?
Sliding
Which process involves a rotational manner of soil and weaker rock sliding along a curved surface?
Slumping
What landform is characterized by a ridge of sand or shingle deposited by the sea, attached to the land at one end but ending in a bay or river mouth?
Spit
Which process causes wave energy to converge at headlands and diverge at bays, resulting in erosion and deposition, respectively?
Wave Refraction
What landform is formed at the base of cliffs due to erosion caused by rising sea levels and intense storms?
Wave Cut Notch
Which coastal landform is a result of sediment deposition that creates a long, narrow ridge of sand or shingle extending from the land into the sea?
Spit
What process causes wave fronts to parallel the shape of the coastline as they approach the shore?
Wave Refraction
In coastal erosion, which process is characterized by the movement of sediment along the coast parallel to the shoreline?
Spit
What is a wave cut notch?
A small overhang at the base of a cliff formed by wave action
What is a wave cut platform?
A flat area of rock at the bottom of cliffs seen at low tide
What is longshore drift?
The process by which beach sediment is transported along the coast by waves
What is a spit?
A curved landform formed by deposition of sediment by longshore drift
What is wave refraction?
The bending of waves around a headland
Which of the following is a landform of coastal deposition?
Beach
Study Notes
Coastal Erosion: Bays and Headlands
- Fetch is the distance of open water over which the wind has been blowing, with longer fetch resulting in more powerful waves.
- A headland is an area of more resistant rock jutting out into the sea from the diff-line.
- A bay is an area of sea, curved in shape, which has been eroded between two headlands.
Types of Waves
- Destructive waves (5-6m high) have strong backwash, resulting in a steeper beach and erosion of the coastline.
- Constructive waves (around 1m high) have weak backwash, resulting in a gentler beach and deposition of sediment.
Types of Coastlines
- Concordant coastline: rock type runs parallel to the coastline.
- Discordant coastline: bands of hard and soft rocks lie at right angles to the coastline, forming headlands and bays.
Landforms of Coastal Erosion
- Wave-cut platform: a flat area of rock at the bottom of cliffs, seen at low tide.
- Wave-cut notch: a small overhang at the base of the cliff, formed where wave action is greatest.
Landforms of Coastal Deposition
- Beaches: formed through longshore drift, the process by which beach sediment is transported along the coast by waves.
- Spits: ridges of sand or shingle deposited by the sea, attached to the land at one end and ending in a bay or river mouth.
Wave Action and Coastal Landscapes
- Wave refraction causes wave fronts to parallel the shape of the coastline, leading to convergence of wave energy at headlands and divergence at bays.
- Wave refraction also leads to erosion at headlands and deposition at bays.
Impact of Climate Change
- Increased storms due to climate change lead to more intense waves, causing increased coastal erosion, especially on sedimentary rock cliffs.
- Rising sea levels lead to more erosion occurring at the base of cliffs, causing more pronounced wave-cut notches and erosion.
Mass Movement and Deposition
- Mass movement: the downslope movement of rocks and soil from the cliff top under the influence of gravity.
- Deposition occurs when the sea loses energy and cannot carry sediment anymore, leading to traction, saltation, suspension, and solution.
Test your knowledge on the landforms created by coastal erosion, including bays, headlands, fetch, swash, backwash, and types of waves. Learn about the characteristics of these coastal features and how they are formed.
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