Fabric Lecture 1, 2 PDF

# CERTIFICATE IN FASHION DESIGNING (CFD) ## 1. Introduction ### Stages of Textile Production In the most simplified format, Stages of textile production can be illustrated as below: * **Fiber**: Image of a cotton boll * **Yarn**: Image of a ball of yarn * **Fabric**: Image of fabric hanging on...

# CERTIFICATE IN FASHION DESIGNING (CFD) ## 1. Introduction ### Stages of Textile Production In the most simplified format, Stages of textile production can be illustrated as below: * **Fiber**: Image of a cotton boll * **Yarn**: Image of a ball of yarn * **Fabric**: Image of fabric hanging on a clothesline * **Garment**: Image of a garment on a hanger Taking into consideration the various techniques employed in the above process a more detailed diagram can be developed as follows to understand the basic terminology of the subject: ``` Non-Woven Methods FIBRE ---> YARN ---> GREY FABRIC ---> FINISHED FABRIC ↑ ↑ ↑ Spinning ->Weaving ->Dyeing ->Knitting ->Finishing ->Cutting ->Sewing ``` ## Textile Fibre Textile fibre is the smallest visible unit in any textile material and the basic elements of fabrics and other textile structures. Fibres are twisted together to form yarns. ### Main Requirements of Textile fibres: * **Fineness** * **Flexibility** * **Sufficient Length** * **Sufficient Strength** ### Other important properties: * Elasticity * Cohesiveness * Uniformity * Durability * Luster * Dye ability In order to learn more about fibre, first we need to classify fibre. There are various ways of classifying fibre. Illustrated below is the classification of fibre according to their origin. ### Filament Fibres All fibres having a practically unlimited or infinite length are called filaments. Filament fibres are continuous (long) fibre. It may be natural like silk or synthetic like Nylon. ### Staple Fibres: Any fibre with a practical, limited or finite length is called "Staple Fibre". These are small length fibres like cotton, wool, jute, etc. It may be natural (Cotton) or man-made (Viscose, rayon, Polyester). ## Fibre Classification A diagram of a tree with the following branches: * **FIBRE** * **NATURAL FIBRE** * **PLANT** * **Seed** * Cotton * Kapok * Coir * **Bast** * Jute * Flax * Hemp * Lotus * Bamboo * **Leaf** * Sisal * Abaca * Pineapple (Sustainable because otherwise we throw away the leaf) * Banana * **ANIMAL** * **Hair** * Wool * Mohair * Angola * **Filament** * Silk * **MINERAL** * Asbestos * Glass * Gold * Silver (Used by ancient royalties but not much used now) * **MAN MADE FIBRE** * **RE-GENERATE** * **Protein** * Casein (Milk) * Soya Bean * Zein * **Cellulose** * Viscose (Fibers are extruded from cellulose pulp) * Acetate * Triacetate * **SYNTHETIC** * Polyester * Nylon * Acrylic * Elastane ## Properties of Fibres ### Cotton * Moderately tenacity * Inelastic (elastic recovery- 75%) * Poor crease recovery (easily make creases and wrinkles) * Good absorbent fibre. Can hold ~24-27% their own weight * Good static resistance (good absorbent fibre) * Soft hand feeling * Good abrasion resistance; durable * Good heat conductor - cool to wear * Cotton can be damaged by acids * Cotton has good resistance to alkalis * Cotton is drying really slowly * Resists static energy * Can withstand heat, bleach bleach ### Flax * Obtain from the bast of the flax plant. * Used to produce linen fabrics. * Good tenacity * Inelastic. (Elastic recovery – 65%). * Make wrinkles and creases. * Stiff handle * Absorb water rapidly. (More than cotton). * Expensive fibre. * Good heat conductor - cool to wear ### Wool * Obtained from sheep. * Length of wool can range from 1.5 to 15 inches * Low tenacity * Crimp configuration. * Makes less creases (elastic recovery - 99%) * Warmth configuration * Highest absorbent fibre * Poor luster * Expensive fibre. ### Silk * Obtain from silkworm. * Silk cocoons are heated separate fibres. * Length varies from 150 to 250 meters. * Moderate strength. * Subdued luster. * Good, crease recovery. (Elastic recovery -92%) * Good absorbency. * Excellent drape. * Keep the body warm. ### Viscose * Regenerated fibre. * Raw materials are wood pulp * Very cheap. * Moderate tenacity * Make wrinkles. (Elastic recovery - 82%) * High absorbent. (Moisture regain - 11-16%) * High heat resistance ### Polyester * Man-made synthetic fibre. * Strongest fibre. * Least absorbent * Good elastic recovery. (Elastic recovery - 100%) * Develop static charges. * Resistance to most acids * Good resistance to most alkalis * Good resistance to sunlight ### Spandex * Man-made synthetic fibre. * Good Tenacity * Good elasticity. (Elastic recovery -100%) * Good, crease recovery. * Less absorbent. * Develop static charges. * Poor heat conductivity. * Good resistance to alkalis